: trans swap - positioning questions


wldwilliam
01-30-2006, 07:14 PM
I am swapping a 700R4 into my '94 YJ. I neglected to take some key measurements before I took the stock trans out and need help with a couple things before I start building the new crossmember.

#1 - I need to know where the height of the new trans mount should be, so:
At what angle should the engine sit?...say, measuring the top of the valve cover (assuming the Jeep is perfectly level) with an angle finder, or in relation to something stationary on the vehicle...

#2 - Should the xfer case rear output shaft be located in the middle of the frame rails or off to one side or the other? if off-center, by how much and to which side?

I appreciate the help.

gripguru
01-31-2006, 07:20 AM
If you are fabricating it, you will need to mock it up. Take the time, do it right, take measurements and post em back in here. Bolt your whole dtrain together, place it in there and check clearance for everything. Driveshafts f/r, exhaust, cooling lines, shifter cable(or linkage), height, bellypan clearance, mount location. There are lots of things to look at, take your time and do it right.


for # 1, the motor will sit at any angle within reason to make the above work.
for # 2, the rear of the tcase can be offcenter(either between framerails or offcenter of the rear diff) if you have to, but the driveshaft should be straight from the tcase to the rear diff for simplicity.

wldwilliam
01-31-2006, 08:12 PM
The drivetrain is all bolted up and under the jeep. I have clearance or the ability to clearance on all those items you mention.
Your answer to #2 helps. I wasn't sure if the output shaft needed to be dead on the same (side to side) as the rear diff or offset to either side a smidge.
On #1 though, if I have the engine at any angle other than the one it was meant to be from the factory, the motor mounts will be trying to twist themselves apart, won't they? If I have to take the motor mounts loose in the future, then re-install them, it might be a bitch unless the angle is at least close.
I appreciate the reply. Thank you.

gripguru
01-31-2006, 08:46 PM
The drivetrain is all bolted up and under the jeep. I have clearance or the ability to clearance on all those items you mention.
Your answer to #2 helps. I wasn't sure if the output shaft needed to be dead on the same (side to side) as the rear diff or offset to either side a smidge.
On #1 though, if I have the engine at any angle other than the one it was meant to be from the factory, the motor mounts will be trying to twist themselves apart, won't they? If I have to take the motor mounts loose in the future, then re-install them, it might be a bitch unless the angle is at least close.
I appreciate the reply. Thank you.


Well, you will notice that all of the jeep lift kits that come with a skid drop member, dont come with a motor mount angle correction kit. The motor mounts are more than capable of handling the flex. True the longevity may decrease due to the change, but not enough to keep you from setting the orientation so that the drivetrain works. We are not talking 10+ degrees, more like 4-5degrees if you have a really low skid plate. Sounds like you are really close. Hope that helps.

wldwilliam
02-01-2006, 08:02 PM
Well, you will notice that all of the jeep lift kits that come with a skid drop member, dont come with a motor mount angle correction kit.

excellent point...I had one of those skid plate drop kits on mine before this latest take down. That didn't even occur to me. Sounds like I just need to put the output shaft right down the middle of the frame rails and set the engine angle to what I like best (within reason).
Yes, you've helped.
Thanks again.

wldwilliam
02-05-2006, 08:36 PM
In case anyone is still following along...

I used the JB Conversions 231 to 700R4 adapter. In the bottom of the adapter, they integrated a mounting foot. Little did I know that they drilled and tapped the mounting holes exactly the same width as the factory YJ transmission mount. Using the above mentioned tcase adapter and a Novak bellhousing plate, put the newly re-mounted trans/tcase mount right smack dab in the middle of the slots in the factory crossmember/skidplate.

If anyone is doing this swap and not taking the time to do a belly-up type install, the JB Conversions tcase adapter is the way to go. I certainly was surprised...