I'm fixing to make my 89 hardbody into a truggy. I was wandering if anyones doing a doubler for the transfer? I'm still debating on coil or leaf spings right now, but I know I'll run 38 to 40in tires on waggy d44's (till I get me some 60's). I'm pertty sure you can go up to a 589 gear in the 44's. Problem is that beast of a motor may need help on the rocks!

You could use a divorced transfer case from a nissan 720. You will have to make custom mounts but it is gear driven and pretty strong. There are people runnig around with 350's in front of them.

search this forum...

I built a do it yourselfer nissan-np231 doubler. Its on here somewhere but I dont have a star to search for it. Its long and ugly but works well and if you have the 231 and a friend with a smoked heep tranny it wont cost anything. We had an old ezboard forum that some of the build is still on. I think the one I put on pirate had more info but I honesty dont remember...nor can I search for it to see... http://p087.ezboard.com/fblacklistwheelersassociation40687frm11.showMessag e?topicID=320.topic


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Tech%20pics/nissan-jeep%20doubler/double009.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Tech%20pics/nissan-jeep%20doubler/double007.jpg

that's cool man, looks like ass, but hey, it works. I may try that since it is a dream of mine to have dual cases.

i have a 91 nissan with a 350 backed by a sm465 6.56 first, then a np205 and a divorsed dana24. All coil suspension, I have pictures but not with me right now!! its f#@*ing sweet running 35's but not on the road yet. I didn't mension ford9inch in the rear and dana 44 high pinnion front end.

we're building one with a 280z turbo t-5 with a jeep t-5 mainshaft and adapter to a 231 doubler mated to the stock 300, all with wrecking yard parts. this rig has a sas swap with 79 waggy front end. You could also use a 300 flip kit for a ford/early 80s waggy front. I have pics if your'e curious. It's also about the same length as a stock traany/tcase combo but with more goodies:D

Fawkin a we wanna see the pics! It frustrates me to see all the adapters available for other rigs, Nissans need a dual case adapter made! I think the first company to make a nice adapter for us is gonna sell a bunch of them if it will allow the use of the stock case, and a standard case like a Yota, d300, np205, Atlas or something like those with gear options. Every Nissan built since 86 has used the same tcase with only slight changes, that means one adapter will work for a crap load of folks that wheel Nissans.

Call Jim at Inchworm, I talked to him a month ago about doing doubled up Nissan cases for my Datsun, & he said he was already working on it.
www.inchwormgear.com

read this thread..........

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=477674

i think with a 6.4:1 gearset in the sammy tcase, it would be quite the setup.... the best part is there isnt any adapter needed, just some creative welding to fab a bracket and some retubed driveshafts......

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=482467
________
Ivyleague cam (http://camslivesexy.com/cam/Ivyleague)

we tried using dual yotas behind the 280z tranny, but it was to long for a pathfinder.Thats when we dug a jeep t-5 and 300 combo out of my core pile and tore them both apart. The mainshafts are both the same we just used the nissan input and bellhousing. It makes a bitching combo, we should have it installed by the end of the week. Any questions call me at 1-541-665-9980 or 1 866-665-9980 ask for josh. I'll post pics today or mon.

F.Y.I I still have the ott divorced toyota adapter at my shop if any one is interested. It would work better with a extra cab than the pathfinder. Let me know, Josh

How much are you wanting for it?
________
AlannaThomas cam (http://camslivesexy.com/cam/AlannaThomas)

search did you use it!? hahaha

Call Jim at Inchworm, I talked to him a month ago about doing doubled up Nissan cases for my Datsun, & he said he was already working on it.
www.inchwormgear.com

Interesting.

If inchworm makes an adaptor, that would be cool as hell. I will call them to see what he has planned?
________
Glass Pipe Pictures (http://glasspipes.net/)

so whats the news with inchworm

so whats the news with inchworm

so whats the news with inchworm

I talked to inchworm and he said atleast a year away if he started today.

Sounds typical, nobody jumps to do Nissan aftermarket stuff. Why couldn't it be made on that fancy computer simulation programing, and done up by a water jet in apiece of billlet? Just make a adapter that replaces the tail section, and allows a nice dana 300 or simular to attach. Thats what 99 percent of the adapters do, so why so impossible for the nissan? I mean sheesh, there is even a adapter to put a Atlas in a Titan, and nobody is gonna do that, well very few anyways in comparison to the multitudes of TX10 owners.

Fawkin a we wanna see the pics! It frustrates me to see all the adapters available for other rigs, Nissans need a dual case adapter made! I think the first company to make a nice adapter for us is gonna sell a bunch of them if it will allow the use of the stock case, and a standard case like a Yota, d300, np205, Atlas or something like those with gear options. Every Nissan built since 86 has used the same tcase with only slight changes, that means one adapter will work for a crap load of folks that wheel Nissans.These blokes have been making them for a few years now in Melbourne (Australia) www.marks4wd.com

They have distributors world wide also.

Hope this helps.

Cheers Mick.

These blokes have been making them for a few years now in Melbourne (Australia) www.marks4wd.com

They have distributors world wide also.

Hope this helps.

Cheers Mick.

That dual tcase only works on the TX12 (Patrols). In the US We only have the TX10 (Frontier, Hardbody,Pathfinder,Xterra).

Its a nice setup though.

Well if anybody is any good with CAD and knows how to do hands-off fabrication, check out www.emachineshop.com.. if you can draw it they can build it and tell ya the cost in miniutes...

I'm running a 4:1 stock case, with the front output cut off as shown, calmini sye, and a divorced twin stick ford 205 on my hb. Probably wouldn't work for a pathy, though.

Heres the doubler Onetontoy and I came up with. T5 out of Z car T5 out of jeep NP231 tcase and Dana300 tcase

Heres the doubler Onetontoy and I came up with. T5 out of Z car T5 out of jeep NP231 tcase and Dana300 tcase
Aesome, More pics and details please!

What clutch are you guys running, did it end up working with the stock clutch pedal and cylinder? How well does it fit up with the body, and does it hang any lower than the setup? How did you run all the shifters?

Also what are you doing about the speedo?

Some one called me a few weeks ago and asked about making a run of them. There in the works and on the hot list as soon as I find 2 T cases cheap.
I called around my local area and they wanted more for a fooking case that the trucks worth.

So if some one wants to step up and offer up some POS cases cheap I well pay the shipping and everyone well get what they want in a month or two.

************************************************** ******
It sounds like from the guy I talked with that the front case is just a planitary gear set up like the 231,241 and BW135-1354 cases I`m making crawl boxes with now?

If thats the set up they have the kits well only run in the $350 to $400 range with a new cromo shaft and killer clocking.

Thanks
Duffy
D.D.Machine
(360)779-2500

O ya
do all the cases have the same spline count? auto/ 5 speed
did all the years have the same shaft stickout, bolt face etc?
are all of them manual shift?

what were the changes made thrue the years and models?

Thanks
Duffy

I'm actually the person you talked to, sent you a PM, dont know if you got it.

The cases are all pretty much the same, the 4cyl trucks have a 24spline input and the 6cyls have a 30spl input. The transmission/tcase mounting surface bolt patters should be the same though, my buddy is parting out a 4cyl truck next week, I'll check it against my 6cyl case. All manual shift.

I have two cases that I'd be willing to let you have. One is pulled half way apart but I can put it back together. Shipping from baltimore might suck though. You can PM me here, or email me at pearld@umd.edu, and so we can work out shipping if you want.

Oh and 96+pathfinders and infinity qx4s have some stupid ass electronic case, completly different case.

Oh and 96+pathfinders and infinity qx4s have some stupid ass electronic case, completely different case.


NO NO NO NO NO, 96+ QX4s (all QX4s) use the TX14A which is NOT like the TX10.

96-99 pathfinders use the TX10 JUST LIKE ANY OTHER V6 30 spline TX10 (I am running calmini gears in my 98 pathfinder)

2001 and up pathfinders with heater knob controls to switch into 4x4 use the bastard TX14A, but have a lower 4 lo anyways.

2001 and up pathfinders with a 5psd use the TX10 as the 5spds ALWAYS have TX10s on them. (and nobody has confirmed but the TX14A might have the same input shaft and bolt pattern of the TX10 meaning a TX10 doubler case might go in front of a TX14A)



being the owner of the forgotten race of Nissans is hard when your model is the forgotten model of the forgotten race of Nissans ...meaning I might want the doubler one day and my truck uses the same drive train as any other manual Nissan v6 made after 86

In short a transfer out of a 96-99 Nissan is also just like any other transfer out of any other V-6 Nissan 4x4 in the US.

Keith,
My 2000 has a t-case as well. :flipoff2: TX10 should be 96-00. If you are still trying to locate one there are quite a few people that have spares who would donate one for this cause I'm sure. I can't wait to see the finished product...

If you don't get them from sirmanguy, PM me. I will pull mine and ship it, if I can get it back once production starts. Please don't worry about me needing it back in a rush, that won't be happening. I'll forgo the 205 case and twin stick if a reasonably priced solution is made.

Jared

Keith,
My 2000 has a t-case as well. :flipoff2: TX10 should be 96-00. If you are still trying to locate one there are quite a few people that have spares who would donate one for this cause I'm sure. I can't wait to see the finished product...
Dont you mean that the tx10 should be 86.5 - 00?

i'll ship you three cases on monday. two v-6 cases and one 4cyl. sirmrmanguy will help me put the one back together and pull the other.

thanks Guys
I should not need full cases, only two front`s.

is there a drawing of the cases any were on line?
I should just need the front casting ,planitary, drive hub,and shifter fork from them.

Duffy

Duffy,

Check out the install instructions for Calmini's gears,

http://www.purenissan.com/NP35100INSTRUCT.pdf

There are alot of good pictures of the case to give you an idea of what it looks like.

Ben

Here is the section of the 95 Pathfinder FSM about the transfer case. Has a few good exploded views

http://userpages.umbc.edu/~robrif1/TF.pdf

Excuse my ignorance, but are we talking about using the front half of a TX10 as a doubler to mate a full TX10 to? So basically, you have, in order: transmission, half a TX10, full TX10?

I am currently sourcing parts for a T5/231/300 setup like onetontoy posted pics of. I would probably ditch that plan if this doubler setup became available for the price you mentioned.

Thanks
Bryan

Yes Brian, that is what they are talking about and how other doublers such as toy doublers work. Transmission - TX10 reduction gears (in half case minus chain) - regular TX10.


Dont you mean that the tx10 should be 86.5 - 00?

Yes No, he was refering to R50s only, but yes 86.5 to 00 all TX10s are the same for 4cyl and same for V-6.

I will buy one. For sure.

Excuse my ignorance, but are we talking about using the front half of a TX10 as a doubler to mate a full TX10 to? So basically, you have, in order: transmission, half a TX10, full TX10?

I am currently sourcing parts for a T5/231/300 setup like onetontoy posted pics of. I would probably ditch that plan if this doubler setup became available for the price you mentioned.

Thanks
Bryan
We were debating on N4W as to whether a dana 300 behind the tx10 would be better or another tx10.

Pros for 300:
-Shorter (a tx10/300 doubler will be about the same length as a stock tx10 +- a few inches)
-Twinsticks for front dig
-Fixed yoke outputs
-cheap 4:1s
-Cheap upgrades
-abillity to run abunch of other cases like 231s 205s atlas, stak etc
-*Edited to add* option of Passanger or drivers drop, so you can run any axle for a SAS

cons for 300:
-can be hard to find/expensive (the most ive seen one go for online is 300, but around here i still get them for 100)
-not a nissan part (bothers some, not me)
- mechanical speedo
- will need mostly new driveshafts

Pros for tx10:
- all nissan
- cheap and easy to find in the junkyard
- Can have stock rear driveshaft shortened (cheaper)

Cons:
- Long (probably will add 12-14in to the drivetrain which will suck for pathfinder/xterra guys, maybe make it impossible)
- 4:1s cost $1100 if you want to go lower
- still slip yoke rear output


I would prefer a dana 300 for my situation but I will buy whichever one he makes, since I already have a 300 and I already have a crapload of tx10s.

If you look at duffy's other kits, its only the doubler adapter, you still need to figure out how to shift the second case and get it mounted and fitted into the truck. Also requires new driveshafts (not a big deal if you do it at the same time as a SAS).

Yeah I would MUCH prefer a 300 actually. I have a pathy and the rear driveshaft would be kinda short, especially at the level of lift I have.

It's about time someone picked up on this opportunity in the Nissan aftermarket.

i also have a t-case out of my pathfinder I can ship if needed... very interested in one of these...!

From the sounds of it a 300 sounds like a good idea. I don't mind having another brand in there, as long as it doesn't say JEEP. :flipoff2:

Sounds good. I would like to see the 300 setup. That way we have options. After this it requires a new cross member, drive shafts and shifting levers?

Lets see this thing come to fruition. ;)
My Xterra needs this.

I'm interested in this as well. Prefer the TX-10 but would go with either.:smokin:

Good work guys..

I think someone could sell a LOT of these, especially since the Xterra market would be tapped. We are talking about a LOT of years of Nissan trucks knocked out with a single adapter. I wish I were the guy designing and selling the adapter. :smokin:

Just think how many SAS kits Calmini has sold for Xterras and Frontiers alone. I would imagine there would be a pretty huge market for these as well.

I like the idea of dual tx10s. They are nice cases. I have crawler gears in mine already.

The main reason I would like duals is to make the frt driveshaft longer. :D

I like the idea of two TX10s. I already have crawler gears, and it's a tough case.

Yes two Tx10 or I could do a tx10 crawl box to a 23 spline 6 bolt. (D300)

I have been making 241 crawl boxes for about 4+ years and have been doing the 231 for about a year, the ford kits 1350/54 ar about 6 months now.

at this point I`m dead in the water tell I get my hands on two cases (half cases) and start doing the drawing and programing for them.

Duffy

A few folks offered to send you cases, did none of them come through?

I probably would stay away from two Tx10s, gears are incredibly expensive and you have to do a SYE which is also more pricey if you buy a kit. The saving grace might be that it's driver side front output for all the SAS guys with drivers drop axles already versus the D300 with passenger side drop (of course unless you flip it, which also costs a little $$).

Of course all the guys who have sunk $1100+ into gears are going to want to stick with the Tx10, but just thinking forward, I believe a non-Nissan case would probably end up selling better.

A few folks offered to send you cases, did none of them come through?

I probably would stay away from two Tx10s, gears are incredibly expensive and you have to do a SYE which is also more pricey if you buy a kit. The saving grace might be that it's driver side front output for all the SAS guys with drivers drop axles already versus the D300 with passenger side drop (of course unless you flip it, which also costs a little $$).

Of course all the guys who have sunk $1100+ into gears are going to want to stick with the Tx10, but just thinking forward, I believe a non-Nissan case would probably end up selling better.
The guys with the calmini tx10 gears will not loose those gears with the doubler, the calmini gears are entirely in the front half of the case. It would just be 3.92 in the front nissan box and 2.62 in the dana 300 (or 4:1 if you want). Its not ideal for strength having more reduction farther forward in the drivetrain, but I dont think it will be a huge issue, especially since this kit will include a chromo shaft.

Ok so basically the TX10 mated to the transmission will be used regardless, the decision just has to be made whether to run a TX10 behind that or a different transfer case?

A few comments above confused me, I though perhaps Duffy was going to make an adapter to run a 300 straight off of the Nissan transmissions.

I still say dual tx10s would be the best setup. I would not bother dualing mine since I have the gears already. But the next truck I build I would like the option of dual cases. I just like the TX10, no reason to try some other case. I like the Slipe yoke in the tcase. I dont like slip shafts in my rear driveshaft.

I would much prefer a dana 300 setup. dual tx10's would get pretty long, I don't want a slipyoke, and I want a twin stick setup. Plus, I can 4:1 the 300 for almost half price of a tx10. Build it, and I will buy. Hell, if you want a down deposit to get things going, I would do that.

I would much prefer a dana 300 setup. dual tx10's would get pretty long, I don't want a slipyoke, and I want a twin stick setup. Plus, I can 4:1 the 300 for almost half price of a tx10. Build it, and I will buy. Hell, if you want a down deposit to get things going, I would do that.

I would imagine this pretty much sums up the attitude of the majority of the market for a nissan doubler.

So, are we talking mating the low rang box to a D300 or the D300 to the tranny? I think the low rang section of the TX10 is ok cause its only about 8" long or so. I think I would like the D300 on the back of the crawl box of the TX10 the best.

D300's are easier to come by, far cheaper parts.

The tx10s are availble but not really cheaper than the d300 and you gotta sell a kidney for any hop-up parts.

Either way, I am re-doing all my rear suspension again in a few weeks and I had planned on buying t-case gears then. I would buy anything you had out at that point because I like 2 cases better than just low gears.
________
Maximcam (http://camslivesexy.com/cam/maximcam)

what does a D300 weigh and how long is it?

about 85 pounds for the d300. It's 11.5 inches from front face to center of rear shaft. The whole setup won't be much bigger than the stock case.

Someone send the man a t-case. I am ready to buy a tx10 d300 adaptor
________
KIDS WELLBUTRIN (http://www.classactionsettlements.org/lawsuit/wellbutrin/)

One question, being that this is for nissans, and they're all driver drop, and offer more axle/driveshaft clearance that way, will the adapter already clock it to the drivers side, or will we need a clocking ring in addition?

I have a TX-10/D300 adapter built and mounted in my Pathfinder right now. One thing you have to consider is what side drop you are going to use. I had planned on a Ford 60 at first and went ahead and started the adapter with the intention of flipping the 300. That deal didn't work out and I now have a chev 60 in it but the front driveshaft wouldn't clear the front case on the passenger side. I had to make the adapter longer (approx 6") so I could mount a CV front shaft in it.

I don't know the exact length it is now but the 2 driveshafts are almost the exact same length. I'll get it and post up along with some pics...

I would much prefer a driver's side drop, and I think most would. The engine is offset over 2" to the right, so it's much easier to fit a pumpkin and driveshaft on the left.

Well, here it's much easier to get Chev 60's than Fords and most guys prefer a 14 bolt rear so end up buying a whole truck a get the whole package in one shot.

My TX-10/D300 combo is 28" from the face of the front case to the very end of the yoke on the D300. My adapter is 10" long. It could have been 5-6" shorter if I went with a drivers side drop axle. There are no clearance issues with a passenger side drop axle. I did have to cut the floor a little and modify the bracket where the stock shifter would bolt on(ie. cut it off :p ) to clock the D300 where I wanted it.

How high is yours? I'm running about 10" of lift, and a passenger drop would still be pushing it. My truck is 6'4".

Yeah I think a driver's drop tx10/300 setup would be perfect.

Mine ended up 4.550 long. I made it as long as I could and still respline the stock mainshaft. I had planned on passenger drop, and it would barely work with no cv and a skinny shaft. Recently I changed my mind, its just so much cleaner on the driver side. I bet if it was an inch or two shorter, it would clear the torsion bar cross-member and fit IFS rigs pretty easily.

ROBBY, how did you get that length? New shaft, welded, coupler?

Well, here it's much easier to get Chev 60's than Fords and most guys prefer a 14 bolt rear so end up buying a whole truck a get the whole package in one shot.

My TX-10/D300 combo is 28" from the face of the front case to the very end of the yoke on the D300. My adapter is 10" long. It could have been 5-6" shorter if I went with a drivers side drop axle. There are no clearance issues with a passenger side drop axle. I did have to cut the floor a little and modify the bracket where the stock shifter would bolt on(ie. cut it off :p ) to clock the D300 where I wanted it.

I want to see pics!

I have been doing some reading on the Dana 300 and it's pretty darn cool. What does it cost to rotate one for driver drop? I think in order for this to work a driver drop D300 is required so IFS trucks can use it.

So what would costs be to get a Dana 300 ready for a driver drop post TX10 doubler not including cost of the Dana 300

For a minute there I couldn't understand why you thought the Dana 30 was cool. Then I reread and saw you were talking about a 300. :grinpimp:

I want drivers side drop. My X has a ford D60 in front and a sterling 10.25 in the rear. Its Drivers side drop already. If the out put goes to a 23 spline will this also allow us to mate up other tcases to the tx10 as well? I'm also interested in what it takes to flip the 300 cost wise and mod wise.

I'm holding off buying TX 10 gears because this is starting to sound promising. I'm really hoping this comes to life because my front pinion angle is rough right now and moving the tcase back sure would help ;)

I have a spare TX10 if you need it, maybe cut me a deal.......
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v462/Stinke/sparetrans.jpg

I would assume he would be making the doubler so it would work either way. Even if he doesn't, a clocking ring is all of $60 or so.

SirMrManGuy told me early last week he would be hooking me up with a V6 case, as soon as it gets hear I can get with making the kits.

Thanks
Duffy

SirMrManGuy told me early last week he would be hooking me up with a V6 case, as soon as it gets hear I can get with making the kits.

Thanks
Duffy

That is great news for the Nissan community. :cool2:

SirMrManGuy told me early last week he would be hooking me up with a V6 case, as soon as it gets hear I can get with making the kits.

Thanks
Duffy


Thats great to hear. I guarantee I will buy 1. Keep us updated. I plan on doing some major upgrades in Jan/Feb. Hopefully this will be ready by then.

I've already got a spare gear box. That is if it's for a tx10-tx10 setup. JIM

You're going to get a lot of business. As soon as possible, could I get a rough length on the setup? This makes a big difference on my planning.

before I can get going on them I need a foooking case. I called around and the only local ones I could find are $$$. I well can pick_A_part monday.

But that sucks for me in that its about 2 hours away so I`m out of the shop a full day.

I'll ship my gear box to you if you'll make me a decent deal on one. JIM

Ditto, my old offer still stands.

Mine ended up 4.550 long. I made it as long as I could and still respline the stock mainshaft. I had planned on passenger drop, and it would barely work with no cv and a skinny shaft. Recently I changed my mind, its just so much cleaner on the driver side. I bet if it was an inch or two shorter, it would clear the torsion bar cross-member and fit IFS rigs pretty easily.

ROBBY, how did you get that length? New shaft, welded, coupler?

I ended up using a coupler to get that length, my adapter was originally about the same length as yours but once I mounted it there was no way I could get a front shaft in it. So I custom built a coupler using the output shaft out of a T-4 jeep tranny and the the inputs from 2 jeep T-cases. The output shaft was long enough to spline through both of the inputs, so I had them machined true and welded them together then welded the shaft in. I'll get some pics and post them.

OTT Industries in British Columbia can make custom couplers for about CAN$250, thats what I was quoted anyway. Depending on how my custom piece does I may still go that route once the truck has all the bugs worked out...

Rob

I have a split tx10 case, and will ship it if still needed. I want one of these adapters also btw. Soon as this comes out, our rigs will be very good for rock crawling.

I sent it fedex ground last week, should arive on october 12th.

I will buy sirmanguy a beer if I run into him.
________
BUY GLASS PIPES (http://glasspipes.net/)

No need for the beer, I want this case doubled as much as you do, besides how could you I thought you just got out of highschool :flipoff2: .

With the lastest computer shit we have now days, no one needs to be 21 anymore.
________
Curvy Cams (http://www.girlcamfriend.com/webcam/curvy/)

With the lastest computer shit we have now days, no one needs to be 21 anymore.
Yeah, I just turned 21 in june, so I really shouldn't be giving you any shit anyway. :grinpimp:

are you donw for a glass of milk then?:laughing:

are you donw for a glass of milk then?:laughing:
Read my post again, I'll take a Bud Light. Don't they teach you Texans how to read? :flipoff2:

So Duffy did you get the case? If so any comments on the TX10 to D300 from first glance?

Oct 12, 2006 9:49 AM

Delivered

Poulsbo, WA

Left at back door. Signature Service not requested.


Whether or not fedex left it at the right back door, I dont know. I called to find out and left a message, hopefully he got it.

Read my post again, I'll take a Bud Light. Don't they teach you Texans how to read? :flipoff2:

Well I'll just get my cat to pee in your mouth in that case. Cheaper than bud light and probably better tasting. :barf:

To be sure we are all singing off the same sheet, I expect the only part of the nissan case left is the low range box up front. As seen in pic 15 of this link http://www.purenissan.com/NP35100INSTRUCT.pdf Same as the yota guys get.
________
Jomtien beach condo (http://pattayaluxurycondos.com)

To be sure we are all singing off the same sheet, I expect the only part of the nissan case left is the low range box up front. As seen in pic 15 of this link http://www.purenissan.com/NP35100INSTRUCT.pdf Same as the yota guys get.
Huh?

Talked to duffy a few days ago. He has the case, pulled it apart and said that a doubler shouldnt be too hard. A tx10/tx10 doubler would cost more since it requires a much thicker piece of aluminum since the front of the tx10 sticks out so far. He said he'd check out doing a tx10/flipped d300 setup.

The part pictured is the low range box, I couldnt find another pic of it. It bolts up to the tranny first and then the 2 halfs of the front out put bolt behind it. When you dual a toyota, you are just adding a second low rang box. So, I want to know if the piece that has the front output will be there or not. If it is, I think it will be a little hard for everyone to cut it off and weld it up.
________
Volcano vaporizers (http://volcanovaporizer.net/)

Ok, I get it. The cut and weld will probably be nessecary from what I heard.

Read this http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/productreviews/mad_rooster but imagine the tx10 as the front case. Should end up similar. It could be cut in a few minutes with a hacksaw, then just drop the case off at someone with a TIG with some beer and come back in an hour. I think you could even try stick welding it with the right rod.

edit- my basic oppionion on this is: pretty much everyone who is even going to think about a doubler has already done a SAS which involves torching off the whole front end, so I don't think that cutting a piece off the tcase is gonna scare them away.

Why will this be necessary? Shaft issues?

leaving the front output will make the whole deal longer, and make it harder to sell. I obvously will pay alot more for something that will bolt up and not have to be welded, even though I could get credit at school for welding that. If the case is much longer, my rear lower links crossmember will not work anymore.
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It has to do with the way the internals of the case work. To do what you are asking would be exponentially more complicated and involve alot more machining (probably driving costs above a grand, a two inch 18x18x2 in block of AL costs around $125).

The jeep guys do it with a cut and welded case, and they are a bunch of pussies :flipoff2: . The idea is scarrier then it really is. Big nissan removed the output so he could run a divorced 720 case, he didnt seem to think it was that bad, http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/shortysoffroad/album?.dir=4a58&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/shortysoffroad/my_photos

I dont think you should worry too much about length yet, even done this way it might add a few inches (under 5) to the existing case length. How about a picture of where your lowers are?

I'll admit though, alot of this post is me talking out my ass from what i've seen from taking a case apart (I origionally wanted to machine the doubler myself but I just dont have time).

Huh?

Talked to duffy a few days ago. He has the case, pulled it apart and said that a doubler shouldnt be too hard. A tx10/tx10 doubler would cost more since it requires a much thicker piece of aluminum since the front of the tx10 sticks out so far. He said he'd check out doing a tx10/flipped d300 setup.


:smokin: :smokin: :smokin: Excellent. Thanks for sending in a tcase.

He said he'd check out doing a tx10/flipped d300 setup.


I like the sound of this...

I'm all for a tx10/d300 setup. I have no qualms about hacking my case.:D Some rod, and I'll have to borrow an arc welder from a guy at work and weld it up.

I did a bit of research, I think that this electrode is what you would want http://store.cyberweld.com/alel40.html. I would definatly do some practice on the hacked off part of the case first and clean the hell out of the weld surfaces.

I dont want the bad look from that, so is his doubler just going to bolt to the back of the TX10? Starting to think about just doing a V8 swap now.
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In the fab world, nothing is prettier then TIG welded aluminum. :D (well except for boobies, everyone likes boobies) Wouldn't be hard to convince a local welding shop to put the plate in. I seriously doubt that welding would cost any more then $30.

This is the way that we've talked about doing the doubler since like 3 pages ago. Even if it was tx10/tx10 it was going to be done this way to keep costs down (its supposed to be an alternative to 1200 gears).

I never liked the way the domestic cases were double like that, dont think I will like this alot meaning I dont plan to buy one.

As I said before, I would rather pay $1,500 and have it done right, than $400 for what this might sound like.
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I never liked the way the domestic cases were double like that, dont think I will like this alot meaning I dont plan to buy one.

As I said before, I would rather pay $1,500 and have it done right, than $400 for what this might sound like.

What the heck are you talking about? Do you realize how many people are running cases doubled exactly like this?

What are you worried about, the welded plate? It's not like it even needs to be welded, just smear some JB Weld on there and it will hold. It won't see any load, all it has to do is hold in gear lube. Anyways, as mentioned before, welded AL looks great, and you can have it done for under $50 if you don't feel up to the task yourself.

anyone interested in a tx10 to toyota mini truck t-case?

anyone interested in a tx10 to toyota mini truck t-case?
I'd like to see what you've done. You selling yours or something?

i ran a ott divorced toyota case for a year. with one u-joint it vibed a little and wore out kinda quick.

right now in swapping a clocked up divorced dana 20 with 2 u-joints and its a tad shorter overall.

i think i can make a bolt-on adapter since nobody wants to cut their case :rolleyes: but it would most likely REQUIRE a longer then 105" wheelbase and a 2 piece front shaft to clear the passenger side of the tx-10 and tranny.

sirmrmanguy has a pick of both cases he may post tonight.

Well, If I am goign to buy a adaptor, its gonna have to bolt up to the low range box of the TX10

http://marlincrawler.com/images5/index_02.gif

Do you see a hacked output on that yota set-up? We can do a nissan case the same way. Its just gonna take a little more effort. No point in adding extra length to the stock case if we dont have to with an empty section. Sure a new shaft will have to be made, but one will have to be made going the other way too. Right now its in the design stage, why dont we quit being a bunch of tight wads and go for something a little more trick? Im just saying what I want, all input counts because if you just stay to yourself you may never get what you want.
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In the fab world, nothing is prettier then TIG welded aluminum. :D (well except for boobies, everyone likes boobies) Wouldn't be hard to convince a local welding shop to put the plate in. I seriously doubt that welding would cost any more then $30.


I dont think any shop is gonna touch it for less than 1hr of labor, maybe 2. Dont know about your area, but shop rates are $60-80 an hour around here. Its only 10 minutes of welding, but there will be alot of prep. Tig needs the metal to be very clean, and we're talking about a porous casting thats been soaking in gear oil the last ten years.

Well, If I am goign to buy a adaptor, its gonna have to bolt up to the low range box of the TX10

http://marlincrawler.com/images5/index_02.gif

Do you see a hacked output on that yota set-up? We can do a nissan case the same way. Its just gonna take a little more effort. No point in adding extra length to the stock case if we dont have to with an empty section. Sure a new shaft will have to be made, but one will have to be made going the other way too. Right now its in the design stage, why dont we quit being a bunch of tight wads and go for something a little more trick? Im just saying what I want, all input counts because if you just stay to yourself you may never get what you want.

Based on detailed measurements and costing Ive done myself, a doubler without the hacked front output will gain you an inch at most and would double or triple the price.

toyota cases have 2 sections: front low range box, and rear 4wd section.

nissan cases have 3 sections: section 1 is the front half for the low range area, section 2 is the rear half of the low range area and the front half of the 4wd area, section 3 is the rear half of the 4wd area and the slip yoke area.

with toyota cases, the low range section is easy to double or triple since it is so short. with nissan cases (the adapter in question by sirmrmanguy and d.d.machine) the section 3 is to be replaced by a plate adapter enabling you to install a complete case behind it.

In order to build an adapter that replaces section 2 would be rediculous because:

1. you are replacing main bearing supports that are critical to the alignment of the low range gearset.

2. the length gained by this method over replacing the third section only, is not worth it, approx. 1"

3. is not budget minded and you would most likely be better off doing an entire drivetrain swap to get a transfercase bolt pattern that is more easily doubled.

-or-

adapt section 3 to a more common bolt pattern (6 bolt circle) and deal with the length.

I'm all for it. I've been wanting to buy a 120volt arc welder just to have for aluminum, anyway. Who knows, maybe I'll pony up and buy a spoolgun.

Hacking the TX10 is fine with me. I'm actually looking for the added length to help with the front pinion angle.

I do have a question, The low range part of the box does that mean you only 2:1 coming from the TX10 to the 2nd case? I would like to see both high and low options going to the 2nd case.

The toy cases are a completly different animal from the nissan case, ours are chain driven, theirs are gear driven, externally they look similar but internally its worlds of difference. Yes it can be done that way, is it worth it? Not really. An inch or two extra in our drivetrain isnt going to hurt anything (even in a sased pathfinder the front driveshaft could stand be a few inches longer, but not so much). I think once you see this doubler built, it will change your mind.

Jeep07, you will have both 1:1 and 2.2:1 out of the nissan box.


Top is a OTT divorced toy case, bottom is the dana 20 nissanmudder94 is talk about running in his truck this season
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/6171/dscn2292qt4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Its a very rare, custom divorced dana 20 from a 4wd chevy LUV conversion. The intermediate shaft is a 1310 nissan slip yoke, to an H frame from a 1310 cv with the centering ball removed. The carrier bearing shaft is from a toyota and it is hooked up running a toy/1310 conversion ujoint.

ok hear is the deal, first off this is not a "toyota case"
( I have then apart and there a lot shorter to deal with)

this tx10 has a input that sticks out 2 13/16" from the mounting and the parting line on the gearbox is back from were the crawl box would end.
So it would need to be a block of alum about 5" thick by 11"x13" to make a new back side of the crawl box without welding up the case.

well that might not be a big deal to make it does triple the cost. ( just the block is $270 each) then add about 3 hours of machine time.

I looked into having some cast but the price is still way to HI

so what I`m working at making is a plate that bolts to the second casting and then cut off the front output side and weld up the open area on the side. (same as the 231,241 and 1350/54 kits I make.

the plate is there only to hold the oil in the case. well I tell people to weld it in a lot of the guys just JB them in place.

do to how the shaft is running on roller bearing with a load on them I`m looking at making "NEW" shafts from 8620 steel and then grinding the bearing area after heattreating.

Duffy

Opps
with a new back half of the case or a simple plate its the same thickness.
the length is set by the input shaft and the bearing on the back side of the case,

to do a tx10 to tx10 set up one would still need a plate 2 3/8" thick. thats why I`m looking at doing a dana 300 as the back case, one could run any 23 spline 6 bolt round Tcase, Dana 300 , jeep np-231, GM np-241 (drivers or pass drop) or Dodge np-231 or np-241.

** swap in a jeep 231 input into a GM 241 case**

Sounds reasonable, half of the part I wanted gone will be gone. :flipoff2:
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thanks again duffy. i am awaiting your product. you are awesome. now, get to work. :D

Sweet so the kit will include new stronger shafts and a piece of alumn to seal up the hole and an adapter ring/plate to bolt up to the case?

Looking forward to this... Definetly a winter project if its available..

same idea as the np-231 box4rocks I make lots of, the full kit would be a "new" shaft, big plate, blockoff plate, clocking plate, and all the hardware.

for the most part its simple cnc work, but the shaft takes some time with the rough turn, cut splines , send out to heatreating, then grind bearing areas.

Duffy

Sweet, keep us posted on the progress. When you figure it out, could you post up a measurement of the thickness of the adapter? I've got a 4link in the plans for this winter and I know a few other people are in the same boat and want to figure out where stuff is gonna end up.

Yep, I need to order my axle housings, and am debating on pinion angle.

Whats new?
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Duffy make any more progress?

Thanks.

My friend talked to him the other day, seems to be making progress, but not much new news to report. I cant wait, I already started saving money.

Been a few weeks, any updates?

same idea as the np-231 box4rocks I make lots of, the full kit would be a "new" shaft, big plate, blockoff plate, clocking plate, and all the hardware.

for the most part its simple cnc work, but the shaft takes some time with the rough turn, cut splines , send out to heatreating, then grind bearing areas.

Duffy


come on DD...we are waiting...give us a update!

Well last I talked to him (like a month ago) he said that the doubler plates would be fairly quick and easy to build, it was just the intermediate shaft that was gonna take a month or two since it involves rough machining, sending it out to be heat treated, then finish machining it (it has a bearing surface on it which takes a bit of time since you have to get a good finish). I'm sure he's working on it, seemed like he had his hands full running 6 CNC machines and everything else for a business alone, so he probably dosent spend too much time on pirate.

Bump, lets keep this a top priority post.:smokin:

Well after looking at the bottom of my rig I figured out its not going to work for me. I still have the t-bar cross member and I cant really lose it.
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Well after looking at the bottom of my rig I figured out its not going to work for me. I still have the t-bar cross member and I cant really lose it. Why not? Linked to it? I left mine in there to keep things stronger frame wise, but could easily drop it and install something different, I want a doubler set up bad enough that I will mod whatever needs modding for it to work.

I want a doubler set up bad enough that I will mod whatever needs modding for it to work.

x2 If I remember right, bach is using his for his suspension I think, so I understand that. Some arguing about cutting the front case, after they've cut the entire front end off their vehicle, confuse me. Me, I'll cut any offending part and deal with the aftermath so I can get 4 gear ratios, and 8:1.

Most of us that run radius arms are going to have to totally re-work something for it to fit. Talking about alotta work there. I guess I could 3-link but there is also a few more $$ and more lift than I care for.
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Back to the top this goes. Do I need to call the guy, I will, but maybe the person that has talked to him before should. Would be nice to get the dual setup going before the next AZ run...

Wow.. a TX10 doubler kit? sign me up!

I'm willing to wait as long as needed for one of these. I have the Calmini gears now, but the gear options that a doubler gives would be really nice.

I'll buy whatever you build.. TX10 to TX10, or TX10 to 6bolt. A twinstick case behind the TX10 would be the shizit.

DDmachine, once these are ready, let us know where to send the $$$. My pathy needs one!

I have started rounding parts for the hybrid T-5 swap. Should be able to handle a d300 and 231 for under the price of crawler gears.
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I'll give him a ring in a week or two, pretty slammed with finals till then.

Back to the top this goes, imo, this is the most important topic on this board.

I spoke with him last week....still 3-4 months out. Just to much on his plate....everyone that is truly interested should call him maybe he will bump it up.

Back to the top this goes. Do I need to call the guy, I will, but maybe the person that has talked to him before should. Would be nice to get the dual setup going before the next AZ run...



Dude, not likely. I doubt he'll even have anything that resembles a prototype by AZ run time.

well I got some good news
I have found the time to get the #`s off the back side of the case, so its just doing the cad/cam to maike the plate, then I well cut down a stock shaft to make shure all the #`s for it are right, then its just spinning the shafts down out of 8620 and splining them, then off to heat treating they go.
then its grind time for the bearing area`s.

this is not that big of a job its just I have to keep up on all the orders I get 7 days a week.
Thanks for the support
Duffy
(I`m looking at doing a 23 spline 6 bolt crawl box)
one can run a np-231/np-241 or a D300 as a T case

Sweet! Can't wait. Maybe I should hold out on crawler gears for the TX10 a little longer.

So, maybe I missed this, but what are the final plans for the adapter? I know you just mentioned you can either use a np231/241 or D300, but is this behind the stock TX10 or does the adapter remove the TX10 all together?

I've got my hopes up for the 2nd configuration but I'm interested either way. :D

I`m looking at making a kit that well bolt right after the gear set in the tx10 tranfer case. it well use about the first 8" or so of the stock case and then bolt onto the back side of the second housing. it well be a lot cheaper to do it like that than make a full new back half to the gearbox like the yota cases do.
by the time one makes room in the adapter for the input of the Dana 300 you would only save like a inch or two but "double" the cost of the kit.
I`m looking at trying to keep it down around the $400 price like the 231/241 and 1350/1354 kits I make now.
Thanks
Duffy

(P.S. I work 12+ hours a day and get about 1 day a month off so I don`t find a lot of time to get on the computer so please don`t think I`m being rude if I don`t get back on this post a lot)

Awesome Duffy! Nice to hear some response. I'm really looking forward to it, and I can guarantee if you can make that price, you'll have a fair amount of nissan guys wanting it. May I suggest making a twin stick shifter for it that would come out somewhere we could use it, if possible? Most of us would be plenty willing to get that, too.

Tyler, it uses the reduction part of the tx10, which is much better than eliminating it, in my mind. It'll be (guessing) about half thickness of the tx10 + a d300. You'll have 4:1 (more or less) gearing without ANY aftermarket gears, twin stick, and 3-4 gear ratios.
1:1 2:1 4:1 with stock gears
1:1 2:1 4:1 8:1 with one 4:1 kit (what I plan on doing)
1:1 4:1 16:1 with two 4:1 kits (no point in my mind)

Even figuring $500 for the adapter, $200 for the shifters, $250 for a case, (say $1000) it's still the same as 4:1 gears in the stock one, plus twin stick, plus you still have 2:1 gearing also. $14-1500 or so, and you have 1:1, 2:1, 4:1, 8:1, and front/rear/4wd. I would gladly pay the $200 difference for all that.

I'm in the same boat you are (except a little less experience). :D

I'm very interested in this even if it does end up costing more than the crawler gears. Since there are multiple parts I can buy them all seperatly and feel like it costs less. :flipoff2:

I guess I need to do some research, but is there ANY chance that this will turn out to be of length that two new driveshafts aren't required? Having a another case in there would be great since I've worried that having only 1:1 and 4:1 gearing would suck in certain situations.

I also need to figure out where the sticks will be in the interior so I can find a way to keep from hacking up the inside too badly.

And saying $1000 for the doubler is equal to the price of the cheaper of the two sets of crawler gears (which are really only 3.7:1). Man I can't wait for this thing...

nope, new driveshafts will be needed. However, for the majority going sas, it's a mute point.

I just thought I'd bring this up.:smokin:

Any news?

back to the top. any progress?

I'm curious as well. Hopefully this is out by the beginning of summer. :smokin:

The single most important topic on the Nissan section deserves a bump, and a question. Is this thing done yet???:confused:

I'm sure its gonna get built, I wouldnt worry about that. Its just whenever Duffy has time (if you still need an employee in a year and a half I'll have my MechE degree finished as long as you are driving distance to a ski slope I'm game to move :grinpimp: ).

It sounds like Duffy is going to have a competitor. I just got word of another adapter that someone is working on to replace the TX10 alltogether. Sounds like both options will be available.

I just want one of the options to come about. Or for Calmini to run their Moab sell so I can do gears cheaper.

Freaking HELL YEAH!

Just read Duffys update on the previous page.. If this thing only runs $400, I'm all over it. Right now, i've got 20x that in my drivetrain.. $400 is pocket change.

You are the man!!!! Put this on the market and you're gonna get a TON of business from the emerging Nissan crawler market. :)

No doubt. I'm looking for at least a 100 to 1 and maybe a 300 to 1 ratio. That's what a built sas rig needs to be ready for the extreme knarly trails, like the off the main Rubicon stuff. Also need a decent exo cage, because rolling is a given at that point.

It sounds like Duffy is going to have a competitor. I just got word of another adapter that someone is working on to replace the TX10 alltogether. Sounds like both options will be available.
I would rather have a doubler, and 4 different gearing options available.

If they made a 6-bolt adaptor off the tranny you could easily do a doubler off that. That said I have the T-5 tranny now with a 231 in front of a dana 300.
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Freaking HELL YEAH!

Just read Duffys update on the previous page.. If this thing only runs $400, I'm all over it. Right now, i've got 20x that in my drivetrain.. $400 is pocket change.

You are the man!!!! Put this on the market and you're gonna get a TON of business from the emerging Nissan crawler market. :)

Last time Ryan (AK4848CY) talked to duffy, he said his main concern was figuring out how much the size of the bearing surfaces changed after heat treating. It sounded like he was gonna build a few, treat them and measure them. From talking to one of my materials professors (who also happens to be my neighbor) it seemed like something we could calculate with more details (though its probably beyond my abilities right now). I left him a message offering help, but he hasn't gotten back to me.

If it sounds like something you'd be intrested in helping out with/have the knowledge to do so, call him or let me know or something.

So I can pick up a D-300 next week.What's the status on this,I would love to have it mounted in a couple months.

Any luck!:smokin:

bumpity-bump

We need this thing, any update?

Yep, update please.

I bought my D-300 and I'm ready to go!:D

Called him this morning, it looks like we are around 2 months out, he seems really busy. I have no doubts that he's gonna build it though. I let him know that I'd really like it for my summer build.

Just be patient (I know, I know, waiting for cool parts sucks :flipoff2: ).

In the mean time, you guys should read the airshifted np205 thread in Gen4x4. All of it would work on a dana 300.

I've heard this is close, anyone here have a update?

I've heard this is close, anyone here have a update?

The thing "steevo" on N4W is talking about is a different item built by someone else (no clue who). What he is talking about is making an adaptor that allows you to put any 6bolt case on the back of our transmission, replacing the tx10 completly.

Duffy is building a tx10 to 6bolt doubler. Call him and let him know you want one.

The hybrid T-5 I had built is for sale, it allows any 6-bolt t-case. PM me if anyone wants it.
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Just spoke with Duffy, sounds like he is still a couple months out. He did say that he is almost done with another project that has been taking all his time.

Keep your fingers crossed!

Just spoke with Duffy, sounds like he is still a couple months out. He did say that he is almost done with another project that has been taking all his time.

Keep your fingers crossed!

Good someone else called him, I think he was getting sick of hearing from me :laughing:

What's up with this? I don't think any time has been spent on this product, because it would be done by now.:stirthepot:

I want this thing soon too. I'm trying to wait to build my rear dual-tri 4link till i've got the doubler or atleast some measurements, since I want my lowers to pivot under the tcase output.

Me too. I'm going to have the stuff to finish the front end soon, and the back is going to be waiting on this.

TTT. About to buy crawler gears but I still like this alternative better. Maybe I'll give him a call Monday and see if I can get any info.

The T-5 is available right now, why is there no interest in it?
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I'd love to buy the whole tranny setup if I had more skills like some of you. :D It's also going to end up closer to the 2-2.5k range by the time you're finished with a doubler on that one.

More calls are good. I'm scheduled to be across the sound from him in late July. It would be cool to take the ferry across and check out a finished product.

$600 for the T-5 deal
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God damnit...why do you have to tempt me with such a deal??? :smokin:

Is anyone else interested in running an adapter that replaces the TX10 all-together? PM me for details since we need pre-orders.

http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/images/nissanadapt1-web.jpg

I already have 4to1, if I replace my tcase with your adapter and another 4to1 case, what have I gained? I would still need another adapter, and another tcase which means to long, to many adapters, and to much money. Since you are capable of getting that adapter made, change it to what everyone here wants, a tx10 to standard tcase adapter, then market it first, and you will sell them to all these folks.

D & D Machine was supposed to be working on the doubler... don't know what happened there but i was hoping to have both avaliable. and there are alot of people that think this is a great idea.

:shaking:

A buddy of mine sent me this picture a while ago but i cannot find where the hell he got it from and he can't remember. I've spend countless hours researching the net to try and find who built it. Anybody know?
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/87pathy/nissan-dualbox0.jpg

A buddy of mine sent me this picture a while ago but i cannot find where the hell he got it from and he can't remember. I've spend countless hours researching the net to try and find who built it. Anybody know?
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/87pathy/nissan-dualbox0.jpg

Thats a tx12 doubler from marks4wd. I would love a tx10 version.:D

http://www.marks4wd.com/

Thats a tx12 doubler from marks4wd. I would love a tx10 version.:D

http://www.marks4wd.com/

wouldn't we all, thats a sweet looking unit. If he builds those, why not a TX10?

other than the passengers Vs. drivers drop, whats the difference?
Size and casing all look the same.

I'm sure that there is alot involved. anyway i sent that dude an email and asked the question.

Post up when you hear back. I'm interested to hear what he says.

Bump...any progress Duffy?

thought I would post up my dual transfer case progress....it's something that I have never heard of anyone doing...and it SHOULD work well once I get the 720 case all mounted up...

I went out to work on the truck today with the intent of pulling all the IFS and rear suspension off....but I forgot the key to my truck...so I jumped on modifying the TX10 t-case to that when I run the 720 t-case I cha get it really tucked up and hopefully run a flat belly skid.

basically it's not a transfer case anymore...it's an underdrive case...

I cut the front output side off.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p979c314f0f9413bfdeb70d880c790791/e87e4445.jpg

cut a piece of aluminum to fit and placed 2 plugs in it...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p14d85715c7acfd6ab3e1c85e4470c154/e87e444a.jpg

compared to a stock t-case
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p2eca81358e2c9fed70d15156af103dd2/e87e4086.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p1e46f6da32c570d095efe1fdd6ef33ed/e87e4079.jpg

I am still going to smear the weld with JBweld just to make sure it is sealed well....but it should be pretty good....

still have the PITA job of pulling the t-case that is on my truck to swap this one in.....and of course mounting the 720 case

here is my new weapon....or it could be a red neck bling bling neacklace... or a belt...or I could cut it up to be several mean looking bracelets...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p3c5b7868717ff7e79a3cf9e05b0847ad/e87e4077.jpg

Great idea. that t100l is a monster. Greg (bignissan) did that a few years ago. It works great he said.

Here is some of his TX10/T100L shots.

http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/users/T93zDsndVnyR/__sr_/fc19.jpg?tkn=phw9hoGBaqdfhJ7r&saveas=DSC00665.JPG

more of his pix here:

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/shortysoffroad/album/576460762355211589

wow....that is cool...I had no idea someone had done that before. We were thinking of how we could make the case splitable and decided we really didn't care because we have a few extras...so if I ever need to take it apart, we;ll just cut the aluminum plate....

I like hte way he did it, any ideas on if that 2 plate job sealed up well or not?

It would be AWESOME if there were crawler gears for that 720 t-case...

you wouldn't happen to have any contact email or anything for Greg would you???

He had some pix on here too. He goes by bignissan or shortysoffroad.com. He recently put crawler gears in the tx10.

His email is on N4W.

http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/885603133/m/52210041931?r=59610073931#59610073931

yo...i'm here...just working a lot and not much surfing, I was sent a link to this thread. It works, awesome, I used gasket sealer and no leaks thus far. The rear case is clocked a lot and I've got what I consider a "flat belly" now. Hangs down one inch because of the x-member flat skid...I've more pics in my sig I believe. I don't do shortys anymore because of my day job now, but you can still reach me at that e-mail.... Looks good though!!

Duffy,

Any progress?

bump...

updates? We need a doubler!

sooooo, you want an off the shelf one?.....cause there is enough infor here to allow you to make your own like many before.

Kind of, but not nearly as well setup as a machined one would be. I would love to get one, but just don't see anybody coming through with one. I want a doubler, not a tranny adapter to replace the stock case.

I really really want Duffy to get on this soon.

I heard it's ready! Oh wait, that just another Yota one, they have like 50 now.:D

I am curious...

If wanting a double x-fer in your Nissan why not just get the GQ/GU box out of Aus.? Marks makes the kit to do duel x-fers on the GQ/GU boxes. I would think you could pretty easily adapt this box to fit your Pathy, X-terra, Hardbody/Frontier pretty easily. The GQ/GU boxes are offset passenger front and center rear.

Or why not just use the 720 divorced x-fer? This x-fer was also put in Patrols and can be had pretty easily for not a lot of cash.

Oh and the Aussies don't have danas laying around in every junkyard. In fact D60's go for a shat ton of cash in Aus. So you cold maybe send a set of diffs off to them to help offset the cost of importing the Patrol box.

The GQ box is a TX12. We have the TX10....it's a much smaller t-case and they wouldn't be anywhere near compatible.

The 720 case has been done and has been discussed in this thread. The major drawback is that it has a centered output for the front and rear so you tend to have to make it hang down low...which kills your ground clearance.

I'd gladly trade a D60 for an H233B front.

I wasn't talking about running the GQ x-fer mated to your Pathy/X-terra x-fer. I am talking about running the whole 9 yards, GQ 5spd, GQ x-fer and Marks duel kit.

The Patrol divorced is offset passenger front, center rear. So that makes it different than the 720 x-fer? It doesn't hang low in the Patrol, the e-brake assembly does but that is easy to fix.

I wasn't saying this is doable, I certainly don't know. But I am tossing it out there because there seems to be people into the duel x-fer in a Nissan but I see nobody considering using Patrol gear. True the junk has to be imported but that is easier and less work than most people realize.

and I am sure there are some Aussies who would trade straight across for a D60 front. If you going to trade best bet is to get the 1999-onward GU H233 as it is the strongest, they came in both leaf and coil...coil easier to find. Hit the O/L forum and ask, I bet you $10 you find someone into doing the trade. :D

The 720 case is called a T100L.:)

Or...you could just throw in a $100 divorced NP205, have a stronger case, quickly twin stickable (the patrol might be too), readily available parts (as if you would ever need them), and not have to trade a Dana 60 or $1000 for one.

Also, I was under the impression you couldn't put that 5 spd on our engines. Even if you could, why go passenger drop? The engine is offset 2" to the right in our vehicles, there's much more room for a pumpkin on the driver's side.

Or...you could just throw in a $100 divorced NP205, have a stronger case, quickly twin stickable (the patrol might be too), readily available parts (as if you would ever need them), and not have to trade a Dana 60 or $1000 for one.

Also, I was under the impression you couldn't put that 5 spd on our engines. Even if you could, why go passenger drop? The engine is offset 2" to the right in our vehicles, there's much more room for a pumpkin on the driver's side.

Do you have pictures of the 205 mounted? Or is it still vaporware? With the length your talking...only those of us with KC trucks have a chance of it possably working. Also with a 205 you are stuck with only a 1.95 ratio. In order to get to 8:1(almost) you still need a set of calmini gears at $1200+.

Not a great option for me.

FYI: for those that have the calmini gear set, duffy's doubler should/may allow the use of a ford 205 (not divorced) without a major crossmember mod (width may be an issue).

No, I haven't mounted it yet. That will be THE last thing, because I'm hoping to get a tx10-d300 or 205 doubler by then. Yes, I think only Kingcab guys could run it. My reply was in response to the suggestion of importing an oddball passenger drop transfer case for $$$. It just doesn't make sense. I would prefer duffy's doubler, and I would run a d300 with 4:1 and a flip kit, if possible. One way or the other, I WILL have dual cases. I just can't see limiting myself to two ranges, with one of them being very high, and the other very low.

I sat around waiting on one of these for a long time, never came.

had one built my own, Decided to go a different route and hardly anyone gave me an offer, and lowballs at that. Obviously the market isnt there.

I bought a 231/300 kit from D&D and was not impressed either.
________
Only4Pleasure (http://www.girlcamfriend.com/cam/Only4Pleasure/)

yours required replacing the transmission/clutch/transfercase, and buying a second case. My transmission/clutch/transfercase are brand new, I'm not throwing them out. If I could bolt a doubler on and just have to buy one transfer case, I would buy it in a heartbeat.

Back to the top...is duffy ever going to come through?

bump for the t-case doubler.. I need one!

Whoever is the first to put out a doubler, I can guarantee that I'll be buying one.

I PMed duffy yesterday. I sent him my spare TX10 last November or something. I want this doubler I really need gearing soon, and I'm not paying $1200 for calmini gears (nice but out of my budget).

From this thread alone there look like there are a bunch of people who want a tx10 doubler and I know of atleast 3 more guys who are definates. The market is there.

I'm not a huge fan of divorced case doublers, I've seen nissanmudder94/damnnissans destroy a dana20 and two toy cases behind his tx10, I think there is too much stress for one to survive. Also not a fan of the t5 tranny, I'd sooner swap my whole motor then put one in my truck.

I PMed duffy yesterday. I sent him my spare TX10 last November or something. I want this doubler I really need gearing soon, and I'm not paying $1200 for calmini gears (nice but out of my budget).

From this thread alone there look like there are a bunch of people who want a tx10 doubler and I know of atleast 3 more guys who are definates. The market is there.

I'm not a huge fan of divorced case doublers, I've seen nissanmudder94/damnnissans destroy a dana20 and two toy cases behind his tx10, I think there is too much stress for one to survive. Also not a fan of the t5 tranny, I'd sooner swap my whole motor then put one in my truck.

Aside from length, there's nothing wrong with divorced case doublers. I would have to question the mounting of the two cases, if there's that much trouble. I also would go to a 205 case, and not bother with the rest of them. If the doubler doesn't happen (which seems likely right now), I'm going to mount the tx10/divorced np 205 solidly to a common mount, and use bushings on a crossmember to support that mount. There will be no movement between t-cases that way.

I'm down for one as well.

fawk, they make them for the patrols.. why can't we get one for the tx10? they are not that much different

guy in oz never replied to my messages about it either

Sounds like another dead end from Duffy. There was another doubler (Ford, I think?) that he said he was going to do but never did.

Edit: it was a 20/18 doubler, here:http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=331909

Any other machine shops out there that could work to develop this?

Anyone have a cad drawing of the T case bolt patterns or other pertinent info?

There has to be someone out there that would do it. Have any of the Nissan aftermarket companies even considered it?

Any other machine shops out there that could work to develop this?

Anyone have a cad drawing of the T case bolt patterns or other pertinent info?

x2.

anybody have a dwg?

If so, i could source it. get quotes.. ect.

Its what i do. But i need a dwg.

Any other machine shops out there that could work to develop this?

Anyone have a cad drawing of the T case bolt patterns or other pertinent info?
I have an old autoCAD file that I made for the dana300 side of the adapter with points that I got from someone on pirate a long time ago. The only thing that kept me from actually making an adapter myself was that I couldn't convince anyone to lend me a CNC or a CMM long enough that I could locate the bolt centers and output center off of a Nissan case, which is why I contacted duffy. Once that happens I can do the rest of the CAD work in a matter of days (I think I could even rapid prototype one at school too :grinpimp: ). I had a local guy who said he would do the adapter plates if we had at least 10 orders, then it would be up to you to get your stock output shaft re splined to match your second case.

SMITHOUN: I doubt most of the nissan companies would be interested since it involves alot of CNC machining and splining. Neither are really profitable unless you already setup to do that kind of work in mass which is why I doubt they want to get involved.

edit: I'm pretty sure that fivetenben has the locations of the holes on a nissan case, since he started a doubler a few years ago that never got finished. I think I PMed him a few times, but I dont think he wanted to share the data.

I have some scans of various parts of the TX10 case halves as well as the output housing of the tranny.

I did this a while back hoping to find an easy way to convert it to CAD.

Bump for the cause...

We need a TX10 doubler!!!

I've even got a spare T-case sitting in the garage ready for it.

Bump for the cause...

We need a TX10 doubler!!!

I've even got a spare T-case sitting in the garage ready for it.

I just bought a spare tx10 to cut the 4wd portion off of, too. Come hell or high water, I'm running a second case. I would just prefer to marry a case then use the divorced 205.

Same here.. I've already spent $1200 on t-case gears.. would rather spend another $1500 or so for a doubler than replace my cases.

Same here.. I've already spent $1200 on t-case gears.. would rather spend another $1500 or so for a doubler than replace my cases.

I've got some good news in the works...

I need another set of crawler gears for my pathy. But I did just pick up another tcase. TX10 of course.:grinpimp:

Whats the news on a doubler?

I'm ready, second case sitting waiting to be installed.

is the good news a tx10/6 hole doubler, or a tx10/tx10 doubler? If it's the latter, count me out.

I've got some good news in the works...

Please elaboarate...... :D

is the good news a tx10/6 hole doubler, or a tx10/tx10 doubler? If it's the latter, count me out.

Honestly, once one of these two options is developed, the other wont be that far behind.

I'd personally rather stay with the TX10 due to the reliablity, plus the tx10s are a dime a dozen and I've already got the part, but I could see either way as an option.

Build it and I'll be in line to buy one...

I don't like the tx10 as a second case because:

1. It's damn long.
2. Although stout, not sure it'll handle what I throw at it
3. Me no likey chains.
4. I want twin sticks.
5. i don't have 4:1 gears yet, so I would much rather 4:1 a d300 or such for $600, than the tx10 for $1200.
6. No yoke options for the tx10, I would have to custom make everything, which would get expensive, plus the slip-yoke eliminator.

I would end up with an easy $2000 into the mediocre case, where I could buy a d300, 4:1 it with 32 spline shafts and 1350 yokes, and still cost less.

I have a second tx10, just don't want to use it.

I guess I can let you guys in on it now. I've started work on the d300 doubler myself with one of my machinist buddies. I've got the case apart and should have all the bolt holes located by mid next week. Hopefully this will all work out and I won't end up blowing smoke up your ass like tons of others. Expect a few months for the first prototype, which we'll test on for a bit before production (We're both in school with jobs and a Formula Baja car to build as well, so time is limited).

2 questions: Would you guys like us to sell these kits with a custom chromo shaft or send out plans so you can have the stock shaft resplined (possibly cheaper)?

Also woud you like us to sell kits or pre assembled cases with core charge? Assembly is a bit more difficult then say the np231/300 kits because our main shaft requires splitting both halves of the case to assemble. If you've done the 4:1s you know what I'm talking about, but if you've done that I'm sure you can do this.

Glad someone has picked up the torch!

I'm a bit confused though, what exactly are you going to build? Tranny to 6 bolt adapter or TX10 to something? Sorry, but you lost me on the splining bit.

Glad someone has picked up the torch!

I'm a bit confused though, what exactly are you going to build? Tranny to 6 bolt adapter or TX10 to something? Sorry, but you lost me on the splining bit.

Tx10 to dana300 doubler

I know many guys that are wanting to do this have a second case. I would have no problem tearing the case down and sending the shaft to you to get resplined, I'm sure others would do it, maybe that's a viable option? Personally, I say just offer a kit for several reasons.

1. Anybody doing this should be able to tear their case apart, it's not that hard.

2. You're setting yourself up for liability/bitching if anything case related goes wrong, even if it wasn't from your product.

Tx10 to dana300 doubler

Ok thanks.

What would be in the kit? A resplinned mainshaft (to fit the Dana300 etc input) and a clockable adapter?

Are the transfer cases from Nissan Automatic trucks/pathy's any different internals than the TX10 ? I've got two local guys who are in need of the TX10 kit, I'm willing to run them on the CNC, so far all I have to work with is an auto trans/transfer from an 89 pathfinder.

TX10's from autos and manuals are pretty much the same from 87-01ish. 4cyl motors have a 24spl input and 6cyl motors have a 30spl input. There is a little oil cup on the front of a manual case that isnt on the auto case, it can be ground off and the case mated to either motor without ill effect.

Why is it now that I have time to do this and a CNC that everyone wants to produce these too? :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Why is it now that I have time to do this and a CNC that everyone wants to produce these too? :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Murphy's Law ?


I'm pulling the pattern off the TX10...

Murphy's Law ?


I'm pulling the pattern off the TX10...

Lets race!

Lets race!

Hmmm for first done or best result ?

Hmmm for first done or best result ?

Don't worry I'll beat you to both :grinpimp:

Northwestfab...completely off topic. Since it appears you're putting parts into a CAD program, you haven't bothered to draw up the front end of the transmission have you? I need to get someone to draw this up in CAD for an engine/transmission adapter.

I've got an auto trans bell here, you need the tranmission side of the bell ?

I haven't had a need to dial the pattern, but I can do it for $40 - it'll be within .001" - let me know if you want it

Thx.

-Kyle.

The way I see it, getting just a 4:1 kit is $1200 for the tx10. I can get a d300 for $200 or so, $390 for a rear 32 spline kit, $175 for a front kit, $600 for a 4:1 kit, $100 for a twin stick setup. I'm going to assume a doubler will be around $500.

That's $1965. $765 more gets you a stronger case with no chain, stronger outputs, with more yoke options (otherwise I would have to figure out how to get a 1350 yoke on the tx10), 1:1, 2:1, 4:1, 8:1 gearing, twin stick capability, and a much shorter case.

When I'm spending a minimum of $1200 either way, I (and most others) would just as well pay the $765 extra for a far superior setup, I would think.

If you want to make the two setups comparable, figure $500 for the adapter, $200 for the d300. That's only $700, and you still have a stronger case, 1:1, 2:1, 4:1 capability, and still saved $500.

I just see absolutely no savings in a tx10-tx10 doubler, even if you have a second case already (which I do).

If somebody can make a doubler for around $500 or so, just let me know what form of payment you take.

On a side note.

Where is the speedo connection? I don't see anything in the factory manual except 4wd switch (on last third of transfer case) and a neutral switch?

Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS in the manual) should be on the front half of the TX10. It's gotta be put before the reduction or the speeds in 4-lo would be 2x your actual speed.