Version 0.0
Let's start with some historical pictures to get things moving.
Here it is in stock form, picture from previous owner, dig those rims......:)
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Version 1.0
SOA, 35 MRT's this is close to how it looked when I bought it.
I dig the stock PTO winch there is just something about the PTO on front of any FJ40 that just makes me drool.....:smokin:
picture from previous owner who is a major cruiser head:) :)
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1st pictures, just arrived home also this is the 1st landcruiser for me....
I WAS VERY HAPPY
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1st thinks first the front bumper needs a little trim.....
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Now for version 2.0
THE PLAN:
1.Paint
2.Flip front and rear springs
3.Dual Cases RockBox + 4 speed LC Tcase
4.D60 Front
5.D70HD Rear - narrowed with offset pumkin (you'll have to wait for the details)
6.40 MTRS on Hummer H2 Rims
7.Power Steering
8.V8 TPI swap later on....
On and on and on....
Once home I wacked the front bumper down to a reasonable size and started ripping appart the body for some well needed paint, rattle can style red paint a few weeks later and after some serious hrs sanding priming and shaking...:shaking:
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Finally the window on, starting to look okay...
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Finally the hard top completed and looks a little better then before, but honestly I did like the before pictures :)
Next front springs flipped for some added lenght then the rears are next in line for some flipping, also trimed off the rusty bottom rails
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looking good. make sure you take the second leaf out and flip it/redrill center pin so the military wrap is at the fixed spring mount. otherwise youll end up bending the upper leaf spring when the leading edge of the tires contact an obsticle. (ask me how i know) keep the pics coming:beer:



chris :cool2:

Whats the plan on this? I am unclear if you are taking this further? Power steering? I see an ARB box what else?
Rig looks pretty sweet!

Also do you stll have those old rims?

i kind of like the look of it without the bezel.:rasta:

dig the rig, keep the pics coming along with the plans for it.

Next up dual cases AA Rockbox unit number 100 since I plan to use the super old school PTO for ever and ever I must keep the stock 4 speed LC Tcase so dual cases with PTO capabilily left only 2 options AA rockbox or Marlins Toybox, my plan was get the AA rockbox since it was cheaper and when or if the stock 4 speed LC Tcase brakes upgrade to the new Orion (Orion has PTO capability so I am set...and bolts to the AA Rockbox with out any modifications simple upgrade) else find a replacement 4 speed LC tcase there are plenty of used avaiable units laying around town.
this get's me to 100:1 in double low should be low enought for some fun....and 16 forward speeds always keeps you busy:)
step 1 was rebuilding the stock 4 speed tranny and swapping in the 10 spline output shaft required for the AA Rockbox to be bolted up to the tranny.
heres a picture of the inside of the RockBox gears simple design and huge....one thing I hate are the allen bolts pls AA change these to real bolts....
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Finally bolted up, but not without major grinding, sweating and time...I thought this would be a peace of cake. Basically the stock spacer required was to thick and needed some serious shaving so a few hrs of fun grinding and done.
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and installed on the tranny after new presure plate, throw out bearing.
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Whats the plan on this? I am unclear if you are taking this further? Power steering? I see an ARB box what else?
Rig looks pretty sweet!

Also do you stll have those old rims?

Added the plan so it's clearer thx...

why couldnt you use the toybox with the orion? ad are you building a new cage ?

why couldnt you use the toybox with the orion? ad are you building a new cage ?

I could have used the Toybox but I choose the Rockbox, both are excellent.

Yep, new cage is in the plan already bent up from WickedFab they make the sickest Fj40 Roll Cage period it's in the works.....

Nice, its all becoming clear to me:D Good job so far.
With the steering... Just power? Hydroassist? What box?
Just wondering:rasta: :rasta:

Nice, its all becoming clear to me:D Good job so far.
With the steering... Just power? Hydroassist? What box?
Just wondering:rasta: :rasta:

THX..Scout SN PS box, mounted on the outside of the frame rails since the PTO it's taking the up all the area where the normal PS box are typically mounted, hydroassist w/high steering

All bolted up w/AA Tcase Mount this is a very nice strong mount a bit difficult to install without a body lift also the floor board was modified to fit the longer 5 1/2in rockbox and with some fine hammering the tunnel fit on perfectly, drive shafts modified front and rear, still on the stock axels at the time there was no plan to move to the Dana 60 Front and D70HD rear, but as we all know things change:eek:
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Here is the modfied shifter linkage for 2 wheel to 4 wheel drive
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And for 1:1 or 2:1 high to Low shifter linkage modified by forming a larger A frame this is working okay, but I will change this in the future since it's not working perfectly.
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The rear tub had major rust rot and the previous owner had cut out that section so the rear tub doors didn't lock in place and exhaust fumes pored in so it was a major item that need to be replaced I added 1/8 in steel welded in place and then painted
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added paint and done
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stupid .. but I have a 68 ghia sitting next to my cruiser... People in hawaii eat em up..

Sounds like you got away from doing the body lift like AA recommends. My body lift always causes conversation amongst my friends:rolleyes: . Looks good though. Nice work on the Cruiser cancer spot in the rear. You'll like the RB:smokin: , use it as your primary t-case since it's harder to get in/out of gear when in low.

that used to be mine....:D

wheres the front hanger???
can you email me the part ## for the 60 rotor hub etc....
i will send ya a link to the pinouts for the tpi

that used to be mine....:D

wheres the front hanger???
can you email me the part ## for the 60 rotor hub etc....
i will send ya a link to the pinouts for the tpi

Still working on the front hanger assembly, I'll post some details soon.

PM send with the GM Part number for the front SRW Dana 60 hubs.

Since I had the Cruiser up and running it was time to take it out for trials to see how the new RockBox performed, in parallel while
I work on the new axels, my plan was to have some fun and enjoy until I can get the axel in drop in shape to help minize down time, that took a while since I had to order some new SRW D60 front hubs with disks and new races from GM and some other items to arrive, while I waited I got to play:p


All I can say is IT WORKS KILLER, open front and rear ran Slick Rock and Deer Valley a few times before the snow fell last year, put it in RB low and let it crawl as long as the tires didn't start slipping if they did then I would try a slightly different line and wow it was a world of difference and double low worked excellent...
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found I need to adjust my bump stops, but since there will be new axels along with a new shackle reverse I'll do it later:p
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Got to try out the new rock light too:smokin:
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Heres where we camped off HWY 4 across from mosquito lake a real nice place....
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Enought pictures back to the build
The plan is run a dually D70HD rear axel this comes stock with true 1.5 in shafts and 35 spline count axels, mine has the 2 piece carrier so it's alot cheaper for the mini Detriot locker same one that is used in the 14 bolt also 4.56 R/P.

WMS to WMS for the dually axel is 73 in, I then plan to make it even larger by swapping on some 14 bolt hubs this will make the WMS to WMS 77.5 in then shorten one side 10 in this gives me a 67.5 WMS to WMS axel that has a offset rear pumkin that matchs the stock LC Tcase so I don't have to worry about the rear drive shaft issues and this will match the stock 69.5 in WMS to WMS D60 Front off set pumkin nicely clearance will not be a huge issue since the pumkins front and rear will be in a similare location and there will be plenty of clearance under the axels on the driver side.

Today I took some measurements of the 70HD axel spindle's

Inside dim of the spindle 1.612 in there is plenty of room for the 1.5 in shaft
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Outer bearing location on the spindle 2.008 in
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Inner bearing location on the spindle 2.247 in
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Inner seal dim 2.817 in
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On the left is the Dana 70HD FF Hub + Drum and on the right is the 14 bolt FF Hub
Thanks Cruiser Brett for letting me borrow this hub for measurements and yes the 14 bolt hub is alomst identical to the D70HD hub.

From the pictures you can tell that they are definately clones / almost identical
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Dana 70HD FF hub extends 3.917 in out from the WMS
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14 Bolt FF hub extends 1.801 in from the WMS
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So by swapping from the D70HD hub to the 14 Bolt hubs I'll added ~4 in more this will help move the pumkin over some more and I'll have less hub stick out since I'm using the H2 rims.

Using my work computer to view this thread I noticed that it's difficult to read the caplier reading, anyone else having this same problem, on my home PC it'c clean and easy to read?

Update some of the latest work on the D70HD

BOM numbers below for this dually axel, 1974 GM from a C20/C25 or C30 motor home or C300 camper van inside it comes stock with 4.56 R/P, power lock split carrier, 35 spline, 1.5in axels shafts

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Pulled out the D70HD Axel for some measurements, check out the size it's a bit big, left side has the 14bolt hub mounted

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Put both 14 bolt hubs on to measure the WMS to WMS

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77.5 in from WMS to WMS this is too wide so I will cut 10 in off the passager side making it 67.5 in to make the pumkin line up perfectly with the stock LC Tcase and the rear axel will be narrower then the front D60 69.5 in so it should track nicely with the offset pumking front and rear:) In a few weeks I'll get the axel back from the shop that is narrowing it and I will update with some new pictures then.

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Well timing is everything....and I couldn't pass it up for the price been keeping my eye open for a
New power plant 1991-92 GM 350 L98 Corvette TPI motor with ECU scored this off another cruiser head thx Ryan...:smokin:
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Finally got the axel back narrowed, this 10" piece that was cut out of the passenger side was an amazing 1/2" thick and weight about 20 lbs wow thats one huge tube........:smokin:
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Wicked Fab shaved the huge pumkin down :) they do excellent work:D
Axel center line to bottom of the 1/2" plate is 5.75" not bad about 1.5" shaved off, looks alot better but still this pumkin is giant......:p :p :p
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Cool! Are you working on the front 60 too?

Cool! Are you working on the front 60 too?

Need to find some cross over steering set up that will work with the H2 rims any idea?

What about the "Kong" arms? THey make a short arm kit. Not for sure if they will clear that much backspace though.

www.rockstomper.com

Scott has arms designed to fit hummer rims. They are also nice and short.. So you get less interference between the steering link and the frame.

I run sky manufacturing arms and they clear my h1 rims. H2s shouldnt be a problem.

wfo

Still working on the front hanger assembly, I'll post some details soon.

PM send with the GM Part number for the front SRW Dana 60 hubs.


I'd like that part # too!

SRW Hub for D60 New

Dana 60 SRW hub part number

GM PART# 15635530 $114.72 per hub+disk+races new.

order from GM parts direct on the web

Finally axels under:smokin: .....front shackle reverse out boarded to 31.5" - moved forward about 4"
still in the process of beefing up the front hanger and the front fenders need to be removed last picture is a photo chop with out the fenders let me know how you like it?
Dim:
Wheel Base 103"
Front tires outside to outside 81"
Rear axel will need to be moved back about 4-6" since 44's might be in the future plans...

move the rear back a tad and it will be :smokin:
40" MTRs look so much better then 37s....wanna trade :D

Look's way better with out the fenders. But besides that, she is wide


Eric

love the look without the fenders and a wide stance with the cruiser hunkered down in between large tires, 44s would look even sweeter.

Awsome to see the full width under there. Are you going to cut them down or leave them full? Got some good ideas from your build. Another place to get your arms from is Parts Mike. His arms also get rid of the springs on top of the 60.

Wow that is awesome! Definitely push that rear end back.:smokin:

Txcruzer, I was thinking the same thing about the mtrs...my 37s look so tiny:(

Awsome to see the full width under there. Are you going to cut them down or leave them full? Got some good ideas from your build. Another place to get your arms from is Parts Mike. His arms also get rid of the springs on top of the 60.

Thx.
Keeping the axels full width for the added stability.

Finally choose WFO Double High Steering Heavy Duty Arms
1.5" Tie Rod using stock 1 ton GM parts
7.5" Pitman arm
and 1.5" drag link needs to be set up

WFO Arms:smokin:

Wow that is awesome! Definitely push that rear end back.:smokin:
(

Yep, the rears got to be moved back :cool2:

Cruiser is looking good. It looks like your front axle is farther forward than mine, but it may just be the angle of the picture. I would post a pic but I do not have the red star to do so. I would definitely get longer springs for the rear to move the axle back.

1. New rear leaf mount
2. New Rear revolving shackle
3. Rear is now 6" back - Wheel Base is 109"

looks bitchin

Time to update the thread:
1.WFO double arm :D
2.Scouting PS box plate

Rear pumkin axel clearance ~13.5in with 40" MTRs

Disk Brake Bracket welded on finally
Needed to use a cutting torch to open up the diameter to fit the larger 4" tube
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My Boy cleanning up the welds :) :)
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Calipers on and painted
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Rear brake lines added
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1. Front and Rear drive shafts done
2. New right side rear axel shaft custom length 35 spline
3. Front and Rear new R/P 5.13s and ARBs
4. Front fenders trimmed

Drivable...
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Cutting time.....
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ARBs hooked up and working F&R
Trimed rear finders allow for some nice flex - nothing rubs or hits, tires full of air :smokin:
Working on custom cage......and more....
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Got 2 days of work done on the Cruzar...

Cut the cage low in the front --I like the low rider style cages. Front A and B pillar zoomed out to show what it looks like.
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Zoomed in, also added C pillar in the back all tacked into place
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Side shot
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All gusseted up and welded with 1st coat of paint...not easy to see but it's done for now....since it's so low I cannot run 1.75" bars over the driver or passagers head. There is only about 3"-4" of clearance, going to get it in and then figure out what to do maybe custom make over the head bars or run it with out.........any suggestions?:eek:

Another view from the back....
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Cage is looking good. Now hopefully you will be ready to go on the March 22nd.

Cage is looking good. Now hopefully you will be ready to go on the March 22nd.

I'll be there for certain.

Front window gusseted in all 4 corners :)
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Need to tie the cage into the frame and then :beer::beer::beer: time...