i borrowed a buddies tire and mounted it up because my 37's are too small for my liking (36")

what does everyone think? can i push em? 16v auto dual cases (i need gears in the toy case already) dana 44's with 5.89s and chromoly shafts... i think i need about 3-4" of wheel base, im at 98 right now


http://www.misfitoffroad.com/phpbb/files/dsc00963.jpg

http://www.misfitoffroad.com/phpbb/files/dsc00973.jpg

I'm pushing 39.5"IROKS with a 8v 1.6l carbed with stock t-case and 5.89 gears in chevy 10-bolts. I can go 60mph in still air. and actually stay on the road. Now, I'm not saying I could SPIN them all in gooey mud or anything, but it's my daily driver.

I have a Sammi Buggy with dual cases and a 16v 1.6. I just swapped my 39 krawlers for 40" MTRs, and it seems to do just fine. The previous owner thought that anything smaller than the krawlers would be too small!!!

Looks good just add 4to1s in the case and you sould haved enough power and gearing.But have to say I run 37s on my zuk and they are looking small now.40s,nice. I like the sound of that.

anyone running them with an auto?

try them out, then you tell us (:

try them out, then you tell us (:


well part of me asking you guys is so i dont have to find out that all of the sudden i need to spend 4-5k to get my truck to handle the tires i thought it could run

you guys that say you run them can you tell me: what axles you have, estimated weight, and how hard you are on your truck?

All stock TCase gearing?

I'll be running 39.5's, Yota's w/ 5.29's, W/56 (or auto haven't decided but that'd help with the ratio's) and dual yota cases. For really hard wheeling I, personally, would step it down to 37's because I like to wheel without worry and drive with disregard. The 410 I am building won't be my main 4x rig... just something of a novelty really because it is so rare.

I'd say figure the #'s or post them up so we can figure it out for you.

It does look cool though.

Search TDavis, I think he was running 40's for a long while...

All stock TCase gearing?

I, personally, would step it down to 37's

I'd say figure the #'s or post them up so we can figure it out for you.


i have 37's, they mesure 36.0" and the 36's measure almost 37.0" :shaking:

stock gearing being 1.8x2.28 (trackickxtoy) so its 4:1 with an auto, im considering the toy 4.7's in addition to the kicker 2 but i'd probably only run one box at a time.....

Well, those 39.5's are pretty much right on, well at least mine are (on the H1's). It's tough to say because in H/H there's no reduction on the Toy case to help out. What kind of wheeler are you? A balls out guy? If the auto has been decent with the 37's maybe the loss won't be much. The tranny because of it's slippage-power robbing will probably be your issue. If you are a light footed wheeler I guess it's a coin toss decision. I mean it's about 50:1 in High range with 37's or 39's... I'd probably stay 37's due to keeping some power.

What kind of wheeler are you? A balls out guy? If the auto has been decent with the 37's maybe the loss won't be much. The tranny because of it's slippage-power robbing will probably be your issue.

i get on it when needed but dont drive with my foot to the floor all the time

i have had some trouble bumping ledges but with a neutral slam it jumps right up it, im thinking about a higher stall comverter to help with this

iroks are light especially on aluminum rims, you should be able to handle it if you dont drive like an ass, i ran 37's and a smallblock(wide open alot) with warns and ctms and never had a problem, i actually wanted to break them so i would have and excuse for 60s. The only problem i would see is the 5.89s but thats a hit and miss kinda thing. Just run them. From what Ive seen you wheel like a sissy anyway:flipoff2:

Ben

Being that you don't have a SBC in your rig you're working with a lot less. I'd say run 'em too but I'd put a dollar on you having some sour feelings adding bigger meats to that set-up just be sure to know you're going to lose a little "pep".

iroks are light especially on aluminum rims....

From what Ive seen you wheel like a sissy anyway:flipoff2:



when have you seen me wheel? :flipoff2:

i have been weighing my truck and tires lately and the 39.5x13.5x17 is 85lbs the 37x14x17 is 72 lbs, the 39.5's on walkers will still be 4 lbs lighter (each) than my original 38x12.5x15's on 15x8 steelies and weld ons.....

i would do it, its the weight that kills. Plus think about how much cooler you will look:flipoff2:

someone on another forum did this for me

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid200/p822afc8e22ec9231c85fff7bb8640277/f0465d17.jpg

Did... uh... what? :confused:

[EDIT:] Oh, I see it now... but the difference between the two tire sizes at that angle wan't really noticeable. :D

I got chevy 10 bolts from a fullsize blazer held on with a LOT of extra steel chosen for it's heavy weight. all my tubing is 1/4"thick wall. I felt that I was a little too light to have a good contact pressure with huge deflated tires, so I chose to lift my weight unneccessarily a little. I prolly weigh 600 lbs. more than stock. like I had said I got 5.89's in the diff, too and a stock t-case. I drive it as hard as I like, I actually intentionally abuse it for the sake of 'weld-testing' my work. nothing broke yet.

with low geared 2nd case you would definitely have the torque to move the 40's. your weak point would be the ears and u-joints in your front 44 from what i've heard. i have never ran out of power in my 8valve 5 speed kick running 36's with almost the same gearing as you. higher 4.10 axles but lower 2.65 2nd case. i find the standards have alot more pep when it comes to kicks, but you've got the sweet 16v motor. DO IT.