My zuk has rears up front, cj rears, and breeze 5/10 shackles and crossover steering.

Front and rear axle moved out 1.5 inches. T case moved back 4 inches to allow room for new t case shaft. Rear drive line shortened 1 inch and had to go cv shaft due to vibrations. Cut out factory front crossmember, and built my own. It now goes over the front drive shaft that I had to have lengthened. T case shifter was going to surface right under parking brake handle, so a little heat and a vise, and it now clears the parking brake. The tranny shifter comes thru the original shifter handle.

The drag link on the steering was close to the oil pan with this engine being a front sump pan, but with a 3 inch drop pitman arm, and cross over steering, I should have plenty of clearance. Ive also got a 3 inch body lift that made things much easier, and allowed me to run a larger radiator. My radiator is out of an 81 datsun. Ive got access to parts at a slavage yard, and it matched what my tape measure wanted.

Jim

:eek:

:smokin:

:flipoff2:

;)

:trooper:

Looks clean.:)

Thanks Seabass for posting those up for me. Thanks fatkid for the thumbs up.

Went thru today what I typed up last night, and made quite a few errors.

I have a 2 inch body lift instead of a 3. The tranny shifter went thru the factory T case shifter hole, not the factory tranny shifter hole. To me, my zuk either looks like its to tall, or needs wider tires, but it just doesnt look right yet. It will look much better when i can get a few stock car cages out of the way, and get my cage and tube bumpers built, but it still just looks to tall.

Im trying to find a good price on some boggers, possibly something thats a 14.50 instead of a 12.50. Maybe then it wont look so tall.

ive got a question about the factory cross member that I removed. I built small mounts, and bolted in a piece of 1X2 tubing to make my new cross member removable to make clutch/tranny servicing easier. Do I need to come back and build a cross brace for the frame to tie both frame rails back in? The cross member that I removed was pretty stout, and with only the small front and rear factory tubing that ties the frame to each side, and my body that now has a 2 inch lift, Im wondering if ive got enough cross braceing in this frame?

Jim

Hey Toywagon, what engine do you have in there?

LOOKS GOOD, CANT WAIT TO PUT MY 1.5 HEMI IN

DOES IT HAVE ENOUGH POWER?

The engine has plenty of power, but ive still got to get it geared.

The engine is a toyota corolla 1.8 3tc. Its one of my race engines out of a little dirt oval racer. I went with the mildest cam that I had, and its still to much cam for what I need. The head im using has over size valves and extensive port work. Ive got a stock head at the machine shop right now getting a valve job, and next weekend im going to a stock head, and either ordering a extremely mild cam, or back to the stock one. I have great power, but the engine as it is doesnt start making good power until it gets up on the cam around 4500 to 5000 rpm. In the stock car, I would twist it 7800. I drove it thru the hills to work last month, and got alot of strange looks climbing the hills at 6000 rpm in second gear, but if i went to 3rd gear, the rpms fell off so much that it wouldnt pull.

Rcrod from the list here designed my altenator brackets to run a gm alt on the opposite side of my engine. The toyota alt is on the drivers side, and just wouldnt work and clear the steering box. He has alot of pictures of his install, and helped me quite a bit in working thru my problems.

Jim

SO YOU CAN DRIVE ON THE HWY NO PROBLEM?
WHAT GEARS DO YOU HAVE AND WHAT TRANNY DID YOU USE
I WAS GOINGTO UST A 5 SPEED, BUT WAS NOT SURE HOW CLOSE THE RATIOS WERE, THOUGHT ABOUT MAYBE USING A AUTOMATIS FROM A COROLLA?

Im still geared stock thru the t case and 3rd members. With the cv shaft i can go down the highway no problem. With a stock rear shaft, it felt like the t case was coming thru the tunnel. Im also on 33 12.50's


Im using the 5 speed here as well. Almost went with the automatic, as i didnt want to mess with installing the hydraulic clutch pedal and line, but I ended up unbolting the hydraulic line from a toyota and it almost went in with no new bends at all. I wanted 5th gear too for when I got my low gearing.

My cross over steering is probably the most noticable improvement Ive made. With my z link up and down my bumpy side road was scary. The day i drove my zuk 40 miles 1 way to work, if it wasnt for the 30 to 40 mph cross winds, I could have driven it one handed.

After I de cam this engine, get a stock head back on it, and get it geard downa bit, I think im going to really like this setup.

Jim

what gears you going to put in, i am running 456, with a rocklobster soon, for now
if i can find a auto tranny with an overdrive i might use it.
ya i took all the hydrolic stuff out of a 94 corolla,

how long did the converson take you?
and did you have to change the steering?

going to try and not move the t case back at all, am going to use a electric fan on the outside and bolt the drive shaft flang to flang
hopefully that will work out

I probably spent 3 or 4 weekends on building up the engine/tranny mounts. I kept changing what I wanted tho, and it took longer. originally I was going to leave the factory mount stands on the frame, and build my mounts off of them, but they were in the way of the oil filter, and put the engine up higher than I wanted. I tried so many engine locations trying to not have to move the t case, or rear axle back, but just couldnt get a shaft that I felt would be long enough if i didnt, and that made the install take all the longer. I guess i just want the best of both worlds. I want to go anywhere on the trail that I want to, but also want to hit the road and be able to cruise 60 mph vibration free.

Within the next month, i will have the engine where I want it, and the front end fixed where i can drive it more, and have a lot better idea of how well this swap turned out.

Jim

Shogun, Ive tried to email you several times with some pictures but keep gettin an mail error problem. All I have is a phone modem and it takes a long time this maybe some of my problems
The motor and trans will not fit with two ujoints if you leave the transfer case in its original location. Even with an electric fan mounted on the outside. Using a toyota IFS steering box will help with the choice of radiators.
An automatic will rquire a body lift or a big hammer to the transmission tunnel.
You can use only one joint but it would not be good for daily driving.
Toywagon has done an excellent job on this so between the two of us we can probably answer your questions.

If your mostly offroad, the flange to flange should work for you. Zuknut got his right, but it takes dead on accuracy in tranny and engine alignment with only 1 joint, and after quite a bit of time measuring and measuring and mock up after mock up, I just couldnt get mine right, and I just couldnt stand the idea of vibes. Keeping the radiator and fan under the hood was a major goal of mine, and you can see in the pics above, I had to use every inch of space to get it in there. I didnt know about the ifs box, and wish I woulda asked about that. Im not on power steering yet either.

Zuknut, with my original crossmember cut out, and a small unboltable one in its place, would you recommend me building another sort of crossbrace to tie the two frame rails back together. I still have the small front and rear tube in place, but alot of strength went when I removed the factory crossmember.

Jim

Toywagon, If you have room to wled one back in place it could'nt hurt anything. Glad to hear to you've been driving that zuk.
Bet you like the horsepower. What carb are you running?

Im still detuning the engine to make it a little more street friendly.

i started out with my race dis. that has the timing locked, and my 500 holley. Ive got a vacume dis. now, and a 32 36 weber. From what ive read tho, the offroad performance of the weber is not so favorable.

As far as power, as soon as I get up above about 4000 rpm, i just light the tires up. Suprised me, as I didnt think it would do that with big heavy 33's. Im looking at gearing right now, but cant deside if I want to go sumo and do it all in the case, or a ring and pinion change as well.

If I dont go back in and build another strong crossmember, how much weeker is the frame, or is it even something to worry about?

Jim