I have a 79 F350 pulling truck with a Dana 60 in the front and was going to weld the front differential but figured it would be impossible to turn with both hubs locked. I was wondering what locking differential would be the best for the buck? Is there anything out there under $300? Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.

Brenton

A detroit is a real strong locker. A selectable would probably be the best that way you can have it when you want.

The Detroit would be my choice for strength, but they are probably in the $450-550 range. Look into the OX locker or Eaton E-locker. ARB's are in the $600 range, and I think you still need to buy the compressor and air tank.

The Detroit would be my choice for strength, but they are probably in the $450-550 range. Look into the OX locker or Eaton E-locker. ARB's are in the $600 range, and I think you still need to buy the compressor and air tank.


i was reading up on the OX lockers the other day for d44's and they look rather neat, i like the idea that they use cables instead of air or electricity. next axel i get im dropping a OX in it

i was reading up on the OX lockers the other day for d44's and they look rather neat, i like the idea that they use cables instead of air or electricity. next axel i get im dropping a OX in it


Haven't heard any real world knowledge or use on them as far as dependibility goes, but sometimes no news is good news. In a front, selectibility is the way to go for a street driven rig.

I have heard complaints about the cable routing on the OX.....not really complaints, but it's difficult to mount as they only offer a limitied # of cable lengths, so routing and mounting can be limited.

Don't weld it, it will never be the same, and probably cost you more in the long run.

a detroit is the only way to go IMO
with a selectable once it is engaged it has the same downfalls as welded

You could spool it and add hydro assist for steering assitance. Would still be cheaper than a detroit or any other selectable locker.

Haven't heard any real world knowledge or use on them as far as dependibility goes, but sometimes no news is good news. In a front, selectibility is the way to go for a street driven rig.

I have heard complaints about the cable routing on the OX.....not really complaints, but it's difficult to mount as they only offer a limitied # of cable lengths, so routing and mounting can be limited.

Don't weld it, it will never be the same, and probably cost you more in the long run.


yeah routing would be a problem if you want it somewhere crazy, but id like it right next to the stick shift on the floor. dunno a price on them and dont know anyone running them, but still seems like a nice locker from what im reading so ill be giving it a shot no doubt

Is there anything out there under $300?

The lockright for the D60 is pretty cheap. I haven't heard much bad about them. But they are the cheapest actual locker you can get, unless you go used.

Search for the Ox locker. I seem to remember a lot of negative things about them on here.

And ive only heard bad things about OX as well. I would go Detroit if you want to save money or anelec-trac if you have a couple hundred more to spend...

You could spool it and add hydro assist for steering assitance. Would still be cheaper than a detroit or any other selectable locker.

Folks, we have a winner.

Folks, we have a winner.

x3

also I would add cutting brakes to the rear axle.

Folks, we have a winner.

Might be different/better on a heavy rig..I dunno...but when my EB front ARB is engaged, I have no problems turning the wheels with the steering wheel..it is the TRUCK that refuses to turn.

Well this truck is just a sled puller and mud dragger/bogger. It has a powerful 530 cube motor, so I want something strong but I want to spend the least possible that would handle the motor. Thanks.

Brenton

How many spline axles should the front be? Thanks.

most likely 35 inner, 30 outers...what year is it?

i would just spool it, or weld it, after you make your run...hop out and unlock a hub and drive back to the pits, when you get back to the line, lock that hub back..etc etc

I agree i say go with the spool and hydro. if hydro is not in the plan then just unlock one hub when needed.

And as for OX there was complaints abotu the original u joint but im 98% sure it has been redesigned. I dont think there were any major problems with the lockers. but Im sure Oxamry will chime in if he sees this post.

Dont get an OX locker they are crap. I would just weld it and spend the money elsewhere with the money you saved.

ARB or Detriot...........:smokin:


:jester:

My vote is for an ARB. Yes they are more expensive, but if you plan on driving this thing on the street, they are worth every penny.

Might be different/better on a heavy rig..I dunno...but when my EB front ARB is engaged, I have no problems turning the wheels with the steering wheel..it is the TRUCK that refuses to turn.

That beater (78 bronc on 35''s) I just put together won't steer worth a sheet with a welded front D44.

it is the pump OX. I steered my d44 when it was on 38.5's with a welded diff.

My vote is for an ARB. Yes they are more expensive, but if you plan on driving this thing on the street, they are worth every penny.

x2
I wouldn't have anything else in the front. I have had 2 D44 ARB's and one D60 ARB and with hydro assist it works fine when locked up.

it is the pump OX. I steered my d44 when it was on 38.5's with a welded diff.


Maybe your right, it did seem to get worse as the day went on.

RD35 :smokin:

Puller truck - I'd say spool, I mean how much are you really gonna turn the thing. Welded will grenade under too much HP's.

Crawler rig:

OX: Seen the OX installed in a heep in our club - not impressed with the cable. It is susceptible to damage from trail objects and driver has trouble keeping cable adjusted for full lockout/lock in.

Welded: I run a welded now until my full widths are done and installed under my current rig. Steers ok when wheels are spinning, at a stand still / arm strong steering even with power steering - no hydro assist on mine yet.

Detroit: Ran that too until my short side axle broke causing my Detroit to grenade. Install wings on this here -> "Detroit" and watch your $500+ fly away.

Trulock: Cheap and very effective. I have seen these fail on the trail also but can be welded to finish your weekend wheelin trip out. And if you get them from 4WP whorehouse you can (and should) get the full extreme warranty.

ARB: Best idea IMHO. Engage when you need it by flicking a toggle switch and off when you don't. Just don't be one of those goobs that say "Oooh - I forgot to engage my ARB" fuck sticks :flipoff2: like duhhh dumbass...
Lass strain on your drive train when just rolling around. Air's good to have anyway - i.e. tires and such.

Electric: Old style no!!! Won’t handle the rough ass environment. New style I read about with the solenoid inside the diff, yea maybe.

There are plusses and minus to every product. The only issues with the cable lately, are burns from the exhaust that allow water in and eventually rust the inner cable. If the melted area is sealed up, no problem. As to any other issues, try not to let problems from 4 years ago impact your decision.

Incidentally the issues with cable adjustment were redesigned over three years ago. No more problems with adjustments since.

We are a small company and as such don’t have the resources that the big boys do. We are actively sponsoring competitors everyday. If you worry that you don’t see as many OX lockers around, you will.

I know I am not the right choice for everyone. If I can answer any questions feel free to PM me.
George
www.ox-usa.com

We are a small company and as such don’t have the resources that the big boys do. We are actively sponsoring competitors everyday. If you worry that you don’t see as many OX lockers around, you will.



Been meaning to ask you guys, whats the big idea with stealin my name....... :flipoff2:

There are plusses and minus to every product. The only issues with the cable lately, are burns from the exhaust that allow water in and eventually rust the inner cable. If the melted area is sealed up, no problem. As to any other issues, try not to let problems from 4 years ago impact your decision.

Incidentally the issues with cable adjustment were redesigned over three years ago. No more problems with adjustments since.

We are a small company and as such don’t have the resources that the big boys do. We are actively sponsoring competitors everyday. If you worry that you don’t see as many OX lockers around, you will.

I know I am not the right choice for everyone. If I can answer any questions feel free to PM me.
George
www.ox-usa.com

This guys OX locker is only 1 1/2 years old :confused:

NOTE: I never worked on it and it could be that they are not setting it up properly. I'm not knocking your product, just stating facks of the things I've seen with them.

I hope Linclon isn't going to post up about my statment with welds on diff's breaking under extreme high HP engine :flipoff2:

just kinding

I hope Linclon isn't going to post up about my statment with welds on diff's breaking under extreme high HP engine :flipoff2:

just kinding

LOL:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

http://www.elon.edu/polisci/images/lincon.jpg

:D

:jester:

I KNOW NOTHING...



Been meaning to ask you guys, whats the big idea with stealin my name....... :flipoff2:

I keep reading about OX lockers being bad, but it is always from someone who has "heard from a friend" that they are trouble.

I have run one in a d-44 under a CJ with no problems at all. The new owner of that Jeep is still running it three years later with no problems.

I am waiting to install OX's in my dana 60's front and rear. They will be sitting behind a healthy LT1. I have run Detroits and other lockers. But for selectable, OX is the way to go.