The transmission cooler and lines in the '93 lwb have had it, and at >$500 for the factory cooler, I'll go with a generic and new aeroquip hose (used it on the defender's oil cooler lines). Can anyone tell me what the fittings are going into the transmission so I can order the adaptors? Any pointers on this conversion? A search revealed much mention about using a generic cooler, but little data on lines and fittings.

Thanks.

1/2" BPP. You'll be better off having hoses made to work with the cooler.

Whoops, might be 3/8" BPP (I had one in my pocket a minute ago) I believe it is 3/8" BPP.

Thanks, PT. Unfortunately there isn't a local hydralics shop willing to tackle this, I searched for a month trying to find someone to fab the oil lines to no avail. Any ideas how I can make this work with off-the-shelf adaptors?

Use compression fittings.

Since we've decided that the oil cooler isn't particulary necessary, how badly do we think the tranny cooler is necessary in a truck that does no towing . . . talk about the ultimate CB solution . ..

PT
Do you have a source for the compression fittings?
I've run into the same problem with my auto trans into a 110 swap. Local hydraulic shop took one look at the tubing with the compression sleeve on it and said it was swaged on plus they didn't have anything like it.
I was just about to drill out the fitting in the trans and tap for a standard pipe thread.
Any ideas???
Thanks,
Mike

And are those 3/8" BSPP or BSPT? If it's BSPP I've found plugs that will fit, though no hose barbs yet. Nothing in BSPT.

I ripped out the stock cooler and replaced it with a B&M cooler for much less money than the factory option. The pluses are: I freed up a ton of room in front of my truck for a winch, and the aftermarket cooler will do a WAY better job than the factory unit. If I recall I just spliced in the new lines. Went with the AN style compression fittings that Paul mentioned. No leaks at all and cheap.

It looks as though that between fittingsandadaptors.com and pegasus racing, you could get a 3/8"bsp to 10an male adaptor, a 10an to 1/2" ID hose barb, some aeroquip hose and and 1/2"ID barb to 3/8" NPT male adaptor and hook it up to a generic cooler. As long as the bungs on the tranny are 3/8"bsp female, I think we have a winner.

OMG! Go to your local hydraulic shop, or Tractor Supply and get the fittings and go from there.

Cheap and not a hack job.

If you're crafty, make up some hose barbs out of steel and braze them on the pipes! (I make my own, Pendy has a source for the barbs.)

OMG! Go to your local hydraulic shop, or Tractor Supply and get the fittings and go from there.

Cheap and not a hack job.

If you're crafty, make up some hose barbs out of steel and braze them on the pipes! (I make my own, Pendy has a source for the barbs.)

This is exactly what I did! I pulled off a hose and cut the end off. Then went to a race shop (expensive tractor supply..) and fit up some compression AN fittings. Ran those into hose and into the cooler. Done!

This is very simple. Your overthinking it.

errr . . . like I said, there are no hydraulic shops that I've located in NoVA, and the closest tractor supply is an hour's drive away without traffic. Sometimes the interweb's easier . . .

Since we've decided that the oil cooler isn't particulary necessary, how badly do we think the tranny cooler is necessary in a truck that does no towing . . . talk about the ultimate CB solution . ..

I don't see that this question was answered. If you are not towing you need the stock cooler to prevent the tranny from going boom.
If you tow you ought to get an auxillary cooler.

Friction and pressure are what make an auto work and both generate large amounts of heat, not to mention the tranny can act like a heat sink on an engine. I don't remember off the top of my head but I think max temp for an auto is some where in the 130-160 range. Way below your engines temp.

errr . . . like I said, there are no hydraulic shops that I've located in NoVA, and the closest tractor supply is an hour's drive away without traffic. Sometimes the interweb's easier . . .

Find a race or hot rod shop that sells Earls or Aeroquip.

I made a set out of russell performance proflex ss hose. Between them and earls you'll find what you need for fittings/guage adapters ect...

I don't see that this question was answered. If you are not towing you need the stock cooler to prevent the tranny from going boom.
If you tow you ought to get an auxillary cooler.

Friction and pressure are what make an auto work and both generate large amounts of heat, not to mention the tranny can act like a heat sink on an engine. I don't remember off the top of my head but I think max temp for an auto is some where in the 130-160 range. Way below your engines temp.

Keep in mind that stock Range Rovers have 2 tranny coolers. One in the radiator and the other in front of the radiator.

Keep in mind that stock Range Rovers have 2 tranny coolers. One in the radiator and the other in front of the radiator.

doah!
Did not know that.

I'm gonna start shaking my head here.

Do we need the cooler?

I can't think of an application for a non-race only setup where there isn't a cooler for an autobox. If they weren't needed to insure reliability, would the OEMs have them? I think not. The tranny has to dissipate the heat of friction somewhere. Without the cooler, you're gonna cook the oil and the clutches. I don't think it's a good thing. I found out the hard way that the oil cooler is a really good idea.

PT

I'm gonna start shaking my head here.

Do we need the cooler?

I can't think of an application for a non-race only setup where there isn't a cooler for an autobox. If they weren't needed to insure reliability, would the OEMs have them? I think not. The tranny has to dissipate the heat of friction somewhere. Without the cooler, you're gonna cook the oil and the clutches. I don't think it's a good thing. I found out the hard way that the oil cooler is a really good idea.

PT

Good input, thanks.