I searched and my eyes are crossed and my butt's numb.
Anyone do soa w/no sye ? how long did your u-joints last ?was the vibration just annoying or worse? For anybody who did and answers...what springs were you using ?

I wounldnt try it but Im sure some one has just get RE kit cheap and easy

I am not positive but I think Keith Strong(I think I said) was running a VERY tall lift on his w/o an SYE...

I'd at least do a t-case drop.

I say go with the RE kit I just bought mine today. I am running SUA and the vibes are so bad I am not going wheelin till I get the SYE installed because the yolkes on my driveshaft will bind with a 4.5 inch lift. And that isn't even at full flex on my springs

Is that the $99.00 RE kit ? I didnt see it listed. If it's the cheap 1 ..you cut off the shaft and tap a hole ( is this the right 1 ?) Let me know how the install goes.sanyi did you drop the transfer case ?

i run over just over 5 inches of lift on a 4.0 manual yj with no sye. i do have it dropped almost an inch though. its amazing how often you get caught on ledges with the transfercase dropped. i've only gone through about 2 joints total over the last 80k miles, yes, 80,000 miles. couple driveshafts, axles, and the like, but only 2 joints.

i've been thinking about just pushing the axle back about 8 inches and running no/sye and no trans drop. i figure the longer rear driveshaft will absorb the angle nicely. plus, the jeep never really gets driven anymore.

if you have the money though, just do the stupid sye, i probably eventually will when all is said and done, its just that i keep expecting the transfer case to go at any moment, which it hasn't, and don't want to spend the money.

I just finished,(tonight), an SOA, 2 axle swap,(D44/8.8) with high steer, on my freinds 95 YJ. He hasnt bought an SYE yet, but we installed the drive shaft anyway and took it for a test drive. That thing could shake the fillings out of your teeth. Im gonna lower the cross member about 1 1/2" tomorrow night so he can drive it untill his collins brothers kit arrives. Its bad,....real bad!

yes it is the one where you cut the output shaft. And no it is not 99. It is 179. I was kind of shocked with the price as well but I need it. Not oignt o pay more for a HD kit when that is not needed for my purposes. And when I get a little flex in my rear suspension and I hear the yolkes hitting each other it just makes me beleive it more.:D

I just did my SOA and my angle is pretty steep on the driveshaft with the JB conv. SYE, i cant imagine it workin without one, my driveshaft is running at 22 degrees.

Get the SYE. If you don't you'll regret it.

Originally posted by Supergper
I am not positive but I think Keith Strong(I think I said) was running a VERY tall lift on his w/o an SYE...

Good memory :flipoff2:

Yup, DO NOT DO IT!!!!!! Here is the problem. I did SOA on stock springs and had my drive shaft lengthened to match. When I put it all together, the drive shaft length was perfect. It drove decently well too, had some good vib under throttle but not enough to make me mad I did it that way ;) I was stoked, thought I got one over on the system so to speak by not having to spend the money on SYE. Well, 2-3 weeks later, on a road trip, 2 hours from home.....I realized the problem with doing it this way. My springs settled...sagged, whatever you wanna call it. The drive shaft stuffed into the tcase. It destroyed the ouput seal, all my tcase fluid sprayed EVERYWHERE under and in the back of my Jeep and promptly lit fire on the muffler. It was a LONG weekend. Get the SYE. ;)

if you are in a bind and can't afford a good one. www.arizonadrivelines.com has a kit for $350 that includes a CV shaft. You just tap a hole and drill it there. It's not as strong as a conventional SYE, but it could work for a little while, especially if you have a 4banger that doens't produce enough power to break it.

Only problem with those blake is if you dont cut it PERFECTLY it will cause vibes and all sortsa problems. That is why the 99 buck RE kit sucks so bad....unless you got the right $hit, dont try and cut yourself ;)

I have a 4 banger and dont plan on keeping it as of now ( runs great though so we will see ) thats why I am trying to not spend $ on something I will take out. I have a q...I looked @ the arizona drive lines kit ,it has 2 options 1 doesnt cut the shaft the other does.Anybody with 1 of these kits,what is the difference in the yoke you removed and the new 1 ? Is there a spicer part # on the yoke ?could the stock stuff be modified ? Did a cherokee or FS waggy come stock w/a cv joint shaft..if not whats a good donor shaft to have shortened @ the junk yard ? I feel so cheap :D Thanks for responses have a :beer: on me

I have the RE slice and dive SYE, and it works great. No, you don't have to cut the output shaft perfectly. Also when drilling and tapping, you don't have to be in the exact middle. It worked out great.

http://www.ilovejeeps.com/reviews/article.cfm?ID=42

I just finised completing my SOA on my 95 YJ and axle swap.(Dana 44 and Ford 8.8, ARB's, and 4.88's) I actually got the driveshaft to hook up and when i hit a bump the springs would compress then allow the rebound to bounce the rear of the jeep up making the springs unload just a tad just enough to cause the ujoint to bind and......POW! out went the ujoint. I threw the stock drive shaft in the back went home and ordered a Tom Woods SYE and im still waiting on it to this day. Other that that i love this SOA stuff and i did all the work myself.

I am curious if the yoke these cut and drill kits use is a stock spicer piece ?

hey 4004ever
What kind of saw did you use to cut the ouput shaft?

Originally posted by sanyi83
hey 4004ever
What kind of saw did you use to cut the ouput shaft?
A SAW?!?!?!!?
I'm gonna use a torch!
I dont think you COULD saw through the output shaft! well I guess you could, but damn! its hardened steel! Besides you'd have to still have it drilled and tapped. take it to a machine shop.

MY question is do you have to respline it? you cut off about 4 inches right? what all comes in the kit? does it replace the cone so you get a shorter shaft or does it just eliminate the slip? I really want to gain some inches in the driveshaft.
so is the kit 99 or 179? I thought it was 99. really need it to be 99...

Another question for 4004ever........

It says in that link you put earlyer that the RE SYE kit needs a $200 output seal for YJs. Can you confirm this, does anyone know if the arizonadrivelines one needs that too?

Oh, and thenodnarb, I believe the arizonadrivelines one is $99 if you don't get the CV shaft.

how are you going to use a torch. A friend of mine saud he used some sort of cutting wheel. I am not sure which kind or what he means exactly. what about a skilsaw using an abrasive blade?

A torch? Are you high? You'll destroy it unless you have an optical plasma cutter or something.

If you insist on doing it yourself (I dont recommend) why not use a good chop saw with a carbon blade? Properly setup, it could be done.

I have used the thin 4 1/2" cut off wheels made by Norton to cut hardened shafts in the past. They cut through them no problem. Its the brand that Home Depot carries. You may need more than 1 to get through it, but 2 should be plenty.

have you guys ever USED a torch. the one I was planning on using is set up on a track and moves slowly in a straight line. basically what they use to cut structural steel only on a minituare scale. a torch can make clean and perfectly straight cuts without damage. so WHATEVA! :flipoff2:
At any rate... I had a question about the differences in the RE kit and the differences in the TJ and YJ cases. could you just buy the TJ kit for the YJ and purchase the special TJ seal or am I smokin :smokin:
dont really know bout the differences in the cases between Tjs and Yjs OBVIOUSLY!

Originally posted by thenodnarb
have you guys ever USED a torch.

I would avoid the torch. The heat generated could cause the metal in the end of your shaft to lose it's temper (metallurgically speaking :flipoff2: ) and become brittle. Bad thing for splines. just use a die grinder with a cut-off wheel and rig up something to spin the shaft AS you are making the cut. This, in my opinion, is the best way to make a straight cut (without the "correct" metal working tools).

Jake

yes i suppose that would be the best way to cut it. and probably easier than a torch.
so whats the word on the differences in the cases? I have a TJ tail cone and output shaft, will that take care of the seal issue so that I can buy a friggin 100 dollar cheaper kit?

I built my soa using 3" springs. It had a lift on it already meaning the t-case was already lowered. I kept it lowered, raised the engine 2", lengthened the front drive shaft 4" (moved the front diff foward at the same time) and lengthened the rear driveshaft 1 1/2". No vibrations because I set the angles up correctly. The only reason I will be putting in a short shaft kit is so that I can use a flat skid plate. If you understand how to set up your suspension and angles correctly you do not need the kit.

Did you point your pinion @ the transfer case or use the same angle top and bottom ?

Do you guys not realize that the number one thing to break when offroading is the slip yoke?

That would be the first thing I would do before even doing a SOA..

You can cut it with a cut off wheel the trick is to keep it cool.. If it gets to hot the shaft and seal will fail.

On my YJ I did the RE cut off one and it was fine.. Besides its not a waste of money, When you go to sell the t-case you bring in more money and more people are interested in it because its a direct bolt in vers having a standard slip yoke t-case


Do the Slip Yoke Elimiator even if its the cut and tap one.

Do it right the first time and for get about it

Originally posted by WheelingPiazza
Do you guys not realize that the number one thing to break when offroading is the slip yoke?

That would be the first thing I would do before even doing a SOA..

You can cut it with a cut off wheel the trick is to keep it cool.. If it gets to hot the shaft and seal will fail.

On my YJ I did the RE cut off one and it was fine.. Besides its not a waste of money, When you go to sell the t-case you bring in more money and more people are interested in it because its a direct bolt in vers having a standard slip yoke t-case


Do the Slip Yoke Elimiator even if its the cut and tap one.

Do it right the first time and for get about it

Well said Steve ;)

a 4" grinder with a 4.5 inch 1/16 cut-off disc will cut the output shaft perfectly. The kit form RE is complete and the seal is not 200$ All that you do is leave about 1" of splined shaft. Do not leave any less than this. In fact I left about 1.25" for safety sakes. This is because the new flange that slips over it is about 1" deep. When drilling for the new bolt, the manual says to use a 1/4" bit followed by 7/16" I believe. Have you ever tried drilling into hardened steel with a 1/4 drill bit first? Start with at least a 1/8 or smaller then work your way up. Remember to use cutting oil and a slow speed drill with titanium bits. Other that that, the kit was a breeze. The most expensive thing was the driveshaft. I wanted one with 6" of slip, and considering that the shaft already is very short, this put me back 485$ canadian bucks ( thats about 50 US). Some say the the output shaft isn't as strong than other kits where you replace the whole shaft, but whenever I ask someone to prove to me this scenario, they do the backstroke. Yeah i've heard it before, his friends friends dads brother on his second mothers side told him.

Shaun