Ok so I dun gots me a chevy d44 front. SOA. not at ride hight, pinion is at -13 degrees. castor about -16. I have someone who can make me something similar to a shim and stick weld it to the perch. Or I can grind the piss out of it. I would rather not turn the knuckles as im running out of time on this POS. What's optimal as far as front DS's and pinion angles for DS's? if I put my pinion at 0* then I will have about 3* negative castor. A bit low. But doable for now. Can I have a non cv made to handle that angle?? And not bind?

Opinions, thoughts..etc :(

Non CV's go to higher angles than CVs ~ unless you get one of those 80* CV contraptions. If you're time pressed, shim it for now, run the pinion 1* up to keep some caster and run it until you have the time to take it apart and set it up right.

Non CV's go to higher angles than CVs ~ unless you get one of those 80* CV contraptions. If you're time pressed, shim it for now, run the pinion 1* up to keep some caster and run it until you have the time to take it apart and set it up right.

So ill be about +2 on the castor. barel acceptable. As we discussed. Is it going to be a fun at 65? should be as fast as it will go for now.
??

I WILL do it right damian. I shy away from the booty fab, but fuck it I need
MY SAND FIX THIS FRIDAY!

Give the machinists balls a squeeze if you havent gotten the arm yet. Im trying to cover all my bases, so when wednesday night comes I am not Shit outta' luck missing parts.

DON'T DO SHIT TILL YOU DO IT RIGHT!!


is that clear enought.


Do it right the first time. If you need to go wheeling, run your current set-up or steal someone elses rig for your sand fix.

You have been around here long enought to know that a Cut-n-Turn and SOA go hand in hand.

Take your time and do it right. Negative caster is BAD, and having a bad pinion angle which might cause front drive-shaft issues just makes it a PITA on the trail. Do you want to be "one of those guys"???


Besides, cut-n-turn takes a competant person 1/2 a day.

Ok so I dun gots me a chevy d44 front. SOA. not at ride hight, pinion is at -13 degrees. castor about -16. I have someone who can make me something similar to a shim and stick weld it to the perch. Or I can grind the piss out of it. I would rather not turn the knuckles as im running out of time on this POS. What's optimal as far as front DS's and pinion angles for DS's? if I put my pinion at 0* then I will have about 3* negative castor. A bit low. But doable for now. Can I have a non cv made to handle that angle?? And not bind?

Opinions, thoughts..etc :(What Chevy 44 ended up with those specs? I don't know what pinion is but castor on all of them was 6 degrees I thought? That's about were mine is with basic measurements (no front end rack).

All I did was move the leaf spring center bolt holes in 1/4 inch on each side and a spacer for the spring pack and it's fine... still run a regular driveline... drives good at 65, well as good as can be expected from bias swampers...

I typed shit wrong. Castor is about +2* right now. Not negative. I am just retarded, dont worry about it :P
pinion about 0*. I dew need a new angle finder. SOAB is sticky as shit inside. Needle isnt very smooth moving.. Im probably+- 3-4 degrees on all this. I shake it and try to get it to settle at true, but who knows.

OK at ride right here is the pinion angle.
http://www.wootworx.com/images/buildup/IMG_2405.JPG

ANd here is where my front stock SII shaft binds
http://www.wootworx.com/images/buildup/IMG_2409.JPG

Not happy with my at ride hight shackle angle.....
http://www.wootworx.com/images/buildup/IMG_2411.JPG

castor +13
http://www.wootworx.com/images/buildup/IMG_2415.JPG

Driveshaft/pinion side shot
http://www.wootworx.com/images/buildup/IMG_2417.JPG

Shim it, or cut your spring hangers (front) off and build short fangs to get the pinion "level" at ride height. You'll still have plenty of caster.

Good to 100mph. In 4-hi. Even if you're running 4.88s and 31s.

:flipoff2:

If my stock d-shaft binds at 20* what do I need my pinion to be at? If i am able to move it up to +10* my castor will be about +3*...

DON'T DO SHIT TILL YOU DO IT RIGHT!!


is that clear enought.


Do it right the first time. If you need to go wheeling, run your current set-up or steal someone elses rig for your sand fix.

You have been around here long enought to know that a Cut-n-Turn and SOA go hand in hand.

Take your time and do it right. Negative caster is BAD, and having a bad pinion angle which might cause front drive-shaft issues just makes it a PITA on the trail. Do you want to be "one of those guys"???


Besides, cut-n-turn takes a competant person 1/2 a day.


I agree half way :D I ran a Chevy housing no tcut and turned for 2 years with some trail action and lots of high speed wheeling and it worked fine ---- but 2 weeks ago I finally got around to doing the proper cut and turn as the pinion angle just wasn't good enough and wasn't getting better on it's own.

What Chevy 44 ended up with those specs? I don't know what pinion is but castor on all of them was 6 degrees I thought? That's about were mine is with basic measurements (no front end rack).

All I did was move the leaf spring center bolt holes in 1/4 inch on each side and a spacer for the spring pack and it's fine... still run a regular driveline... drives good at 65, well as good as can be expected from bias swampers...I see now your reverse shackle! So everything has changed from what I said... mine is forward shackle (stock Scout II) and stock springs...

If these guys think your reverse shackle is OK then you need to cut and turn to get it right. I've seen the results of 13 degrees castor and it drives well but wears front tires on the sides in town turning, lot's of scuffing...

Well if I run some standard 6 degree shims. I can get the castor about perfect. But what about my D-shaft. I got the steering all figured I think. I just need 4WD!!! roadtrip begins friday at noon about 950 miles total :) Im gunna be working up until the minute I leave :)

OK guys lay it on me. D-shaft ideas!!!!

Well if I run some standard 6 degree shims. I can get the castor about perfect. But what about my D-shaft. I got the steering all figured I think. I just need 4WD!!! roadtrip begins friday at noon about 950 miles total :) Im gunna be working up until the minute I leave :)

OK guys lay it on me. D-shaft ideas!!!!

With a "zero lift" RS and stock springs, a 6-deg shim puts the pinion about horizontal, which works fine at droop. You may need to grind the yoke for good measure, or remove and plug the grease zerk.

You need to turn the knuckles or put the shackle thru the frame to correct the leaf spring angle(make sense?). As it sits now I would be fabbing some pretty thick shims - probably about 15 degrees - and weld them to the axle. Get the pinion pointing up until the driveshaft is happy. Then turn the knuckles.

Now get busy! You only have three days left - which is plenty of time.
________
Ebony live (http://www.girlcamfriend.com/webcam/ebony-girls/)

So this is my plan. Buddy is cnc-plasma-ing some nifty things i drew up.

2.5x4 .250 box tube cut to fit onto cast perch and angled 4 degrees. Nickle rod it on baby. The long tube side, I am having made out of the same tube an extra tall spring perch to match the new hight on the other side. And then i will run 6-degree aluminum shims. I dont want to go bigger because I see center pin carnage in my future.

Plan for now.

MOnday (today) finish re furbing the 14 bolt and removing brackets. ALl new brakes and hardware. tack up the 4-link. Fabricate upper/lower coil mounts (sketchy on my design/plans but whatever i'm winging it.). And put the ass end on its own weight. test it for front to back slope. (dragster style sloping is not what I want :P) Order driveshafts....(dearrrr lord I hope shit works!)

Tuesday Install driver side outer and all the new calipers fresh rotors and whatnot. Install shim things test for caster. Pray to my god that it all works out castor/pinion angle wise.

wednesday (hoping my hysteer arm comes.... TOM!) Install steering. Beef the crossmembers, go over all the welds looking for cold lap and whatnot... Make new wire harnesses. (fucking fires... :laughing: ) pull carb, clean soot off (fucking fires! :laughing: ) and put a new non scorched K&N on. Install d-shafts if they come. And brakelines if they come. if all ready. attempt to drive it!

thur go over everything 10 more times.... trasn flush it at work.. new coolant and engine ice... change oil.. go pick up trailer and load with wood and spare shit..

fri.... GLAMIS BITCHES!

put the shackle thru the frame to correct the leaf spring angle(make sense?).
IIRC, he was told to do this when he started the project...

I still ended up having to C&T even with the thru-frame shackle.

Pray to my god that it all works out castor/pinion angle wise. (Put the angle finder on the web of the pumpkin, not the yoke, much easier to read pinion angle:D )

Wednesday Install d-shafts if they come. And brakelines if they come. if all ready. attempt to drive it!

fri.... GLAMIS BITCHES!

Did you ordered a drive shaft?? Did you go with offset u-joints as your stock 1310's bind a 20+ degrees? If you did a through the frame then you could fix that shackle angle as it looks like it will bottom out once you put that IH motor weight on them springs. Being rushed sucks, but at least your making progress. Post pic's as you go.

Did you ordered a drive shaft?? Did you go with offset u-joints as your stock 1310's bind a 20+ degrees? If you did a through the frame then you could fix that shackle angle as it looks like it will bottom out once you put that IH motor weight on them springs. Being rushed sucks, but at least your making progress. Post pic's as you go.

No offset chit here. Good call though. Western diff in town says they ahve a dana20 cv flange in stock for 95. +225 for a cv shaft that will run at up to a 18 degree operation angle. and if my pinion is at about +5 or so it will be perfect.

I HATE RUSHNESS.... Pics to come at the end.. I was told today I "would die" If I didnt post pics. IM ON IT TOMMY!:cool2:

Check around on that dana 20 cv yoke before you spend all that easy money.....
Doesn't most of the early bronco's have 1310 cv yokes already on them?
You might get one cheaper!:grinpimp: I believe those yokes have 10 spline on them, just like your d 20 should have.

Check around on that dana 20 cv yoke before you spend all that easy money.....
Doesn't most of the early bronco's have 1310 cv yokes already on them?
You might get one cheaper!:grinpimp: I believe those yokes have 10 spline on them, just like your d 20 should have.

SO I hear, but I am a dumbass and I need it TOMORROW. Unless my one last other idea comes thru. twin superflex joints. A call to tom woods will let me know. If not I will go tom woods or local cv shaft.. or maybe jess's shafts...:smokin:
Rear? Shiiittt Weld on yoke and sch 40 pipe :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

SO I hear, but I am a dumbass and I need it TOMORROW. Unless my one last other idea comes thru. twin superflex joints. A call to tom woods will let me know. If not I will go tom woods or local cv shaft.. or maybe jess's shafts...:smokin:
Rear? Shiiittt Weld on yoke and sch 40 pipe :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Aren't the "superflex" joints really the "offset trunion" joints mentioned earlier? :D

I run Tom Woods shafts. He's a great guy, too.

Aren't the "superflex" joints really the "offset trunion" joints mentioned earlier? :D

I run Tom Woods shafts. He's a great guy, too.

yep I will have a decision made on driveshafts within the next 30 mins. I put like 3 hours on my cell ohone in the last three days!

SO... Shits falling apart all around me...

Brakelines came today next day air.. WAYYY to short. Because I fucked up....

Driveshafts cant even get measurements sent out for till tomorrow evening when I get my shims...

FOught my 14 bolt for about 6 hours.. Making no real progress.... nodular iron spring perches ARE FUCKING GAY!

Passed out on the cardboard behind the axle about 430am... wokeup for work at 530.... drank about 15 rockstar energy drinks in the last day....

shits bad...
not to mention being about 5k into the hole in the last 14 days...

To bad you weren't closer man. We'd get-r-dun.

Driveshafts measurements don't change that much with caster shims ~ I'd run what ya got.

Give me a call and I may be able to help on price if you're looking for NEW CVs...I'll hook, ya up. But if you're looking to just get things in and to the dunes, I may not beable to help, being 1200 miles away.

To bad you weren't closer man. We'd get-r-dun.

Driveshafts measurements don't change that much with caster shims ~ I'd run what ya got.

Give me a call and I may be able to help on price if you're looking for NEW CVs...I'll hook, ya up. But if you're looking to just get things in and to the dunes, I may not beable to help, being 1200 miles away.

cv SHAFTS? or the flanges? Can you say... NEXT DAY ... Again? :p

95 dollars for a front d20 output cv flange is killing me :shaking:

I just got renewed strength from beer bonging 6 rockstar energy drinks :smokin: :smokin: :smokin: :D :D :D wooohooo! Im having new brake lines in town.. STeerign shizzles will be here tomorrow. last key is driveshafts. i need em both done and atleast one in SOMETIME friday. If I leave for cali before 12 midnight friday. Its done in my book.

4 link is tacked up on one side :eek: :eek:

for soa why do peoples point the pinion at the tcase with a single jointed (non cv) shaft? Can I just point my pinion at the tcase for my 4-link on this stocker shaft so I can go cv later?

To bad you weren't closer man. We'd get-r-dun.

Driveshafts measurements don't change that much with caster shims ~ I'd run what ya got.


Mine changed enough to make the shaft too long at full bump and cost me a few transfercases, several adapters, and one transmission.. ;)

update... all rockstared out. literally. I ran out and the store is closed. SO now im getting tired.. going to crash and burn now.. 4-link is fully mocked up. and exhaust/ebrake shit removed.. open pipes... bitches...

steering/brakes/driveshaft/coil bracketry
thats all thats left. two all nighters left... i think it might happen. going to be a longggg day tomorrow. work in 4 hours.hahaha

Like I siad, call me.. I think I can surprise you.

Mine changed enough to make the shaft too long at full bump and cost me a few transfercases, several adapters, and one transmission.. ;)

Well we have all seen those photos of you flying through the air:eek: But good point, as I was only thinking of how the joints worked at a high angle ( full droop). But as you pointed out above, that high angle will come back to bite once the suspension is stuffed and the angle is reduced. The length between the TC and Axle becomes shorter. I guess making the case for a long travel driveshaft. But looking at the photos he is running a RS which normally dictates a long travel driveshaft, since the axle will be moving back as the suspension is compressed. ( Sure hope you got long travel driveshaft) Bumps stops and chain can limit the travel for now since Friday is the dead line.

And surprised i am


...sweet jihad... if it can be pulled off. damn.. impressive stuff happening...

man it sure sounds like you got a lot of maybe's and hopefully's in there... i hope you get everything together, and know what your doing before you start regrettin what you should have done...


good luck:) :)

If you haven't got my message CALL ME! I need to hear from you, shipping is going to SUCK! but it can be done if you call soon enough.

Someone needs to check on the tractor pull stuff.! I might need to up the ante with that certain orange scout II in phx with boggers rear steer and a blown 409. You know who you are!
Its on! Like donkey kong!
You really sure you want to go there?:eek:

R:grinpimp:

Caddy 500 and a doubler soon to come..

Oh yeah.. Its on bitches
Chevy wannnnaa plllayy?

Caddy 500 and a doubler soon to come..

Oh yeah.. Its on bitches
Chevy wannnnaa plllayy?
Updates

For the record don't scout's come STOCK with 0 degree? I got lift shackles so I am in the bad but I cruise fine on the highway to and from work at 65mph..

Updates

Uhhhh
hahaha

New tow rig? Is that an update?
:flipoff2:

UHh I bought some tj coil brackets from rubicon exp. For the lower mounts... Uppers I am thinking of ideas still. So in the meantime I bought some 2x4 11ga, notch one end over the axle and weld the tube to the axle and then the frame. This allows the scout to get on a trailer. The front? Its all tacked up, but I am about plum out of ideas to fix my retarded ass pinion angle. I think im going to go for the 15 degree cnc-plasma cut shims, and nickel rod them on... steering is basically done.. Need to weld on the box brace, and get longer box bolts.... Bolt up the TRE's.... And call it good to get on the trailer... Take it to buddy's parents house, until we are done moving, then finsh the rear end upper coil mounts when I have all the fab tools in easy access.

LOoking for a 6.0 chevy 4l80e 203/205 setup. Or atleast start with a 4l80e /megasquirt controller/ single tcase for now. ANd mate it to a 392. Until I can find a 6.0 at a decent price....

woe is my scout

Have you torn out the stock engine/trans?

Munchies ~

Are you looking to run an IH powerplant or is that what the 6.0 is for? I hope you run whatcha got for the simple matter of it getting done faster.