I just got the Allpro cage tonight (thanks Sean), and was wondering how hard of a roll it can take. I guess it's for a reg. cab p-up, but it's going in my xtd cab.

I'm gonna install it tomorrow. Should I bother trying to add more beef? If so, what to?

Thanks.

Oh, it's this cage-
http://www.allprooffroad.com/pics/7474cage.jpg

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3113&highlight=Allpro+cage

Mrs. Camo rolled hard with a non production version. I added a bar behind the seats and will be adding a dash bar on mine. I may add some seat ars as well depending on which buckets I get. It's already stronger than teh old smittybilt cages and I know a guy that rolled 3x from 70 mph and walked away with no problems, the cage distorted only 3/4", so it's probably fine how it is.

Is this how most cages attach? I would think it should be attached to the frame for the most safety. Or am I just on crack? I want to call a local guy and get some prices on building me one and planned to show him this for something to go buy.
http://www.allprooffroad.com/pics/cage/7503cage.jpg http://www.allprooffroad.com/pics/cage/7596cage.jpg

Bones,

In the pic you have there, the cage might BE attached to the frame. You probably know this but that plating method is common. What ya do is put another plate on the bottom of this one and 'sandwich' the floorboard. Then off the bottom plate you extend on down to the frame. This gives you somehting that is probably every bit as strong as running straight through the flooreboard. The advantage is that you dont have to deal with water and stuff comin in around your holes in the floorboard cause even if you cut them the same size as the tube going throuh, there is gonna be some flex and a way for water to seep in.

Anyway, some folks dont give a shit about water coming in (me) so we are just gonna cut holes cause it is easier...

Originally posted by TyTy
Bones,

In the pic you have there, the cage might BE attached to the frame. You probably know this but that plating method is common. What ya do is put another plate on the bottom of this one and 'sandwich' the floorboard. Then off the bottom plate you extend on down to the frame. This gives you somehting that is probably every bit as strong as running straight through the flooreboard. The advantage is that you dont have to deal with water and stuff comin in around your holes in the floorboard cause even if you cut them the same size as the tube going throuh, there is gonna be some flex and a way for water to seep in.

Anyway, some folks dont give a shit about water coming in (me) so we are just gonna cut holes cause it is easier...
Nope ;) It's from AP's site, and that is not part of the "kit"
:flipoff2: http://www.allprooffroad.com/pics/cage/7505cage.jpg

What Im saying is that if you need pics to show to the local guy, you have them. Just tell him to build you another plate that matches these plates and extend down onto frame with some kind of tubbing...

Its proabbly the best way to mate a interior cage to frame...

my wife rolled john's truck very hard over backwards and then a complete barrel roll. the truck was structurally fine but looked like hell.

she alos flopped it about 6 other times.


tie it into the frame and it will take a beating

Tying the cage into the frame is stronger, but it will then move with the frame and not the body, which don't always move the same directions when you're twisiting up. I couldn't put plates on the rear mounts of mine (92' reg cab) They had to go right on top of the rear body mount and I had to toss the factory seat belts.

THis post needs more pics....

And...

So Chris, was that cage tied to the frame? And does AP reccomend doing this as well?

One more...

Originally posted by Bones
So Chris, was that cage tied to the frame? And does AP reccomend doing this as well?

It really depends on the application. It's a lot more work to tie it into the frame but it's a stronger setup. Using the cage the way it comes will offer a lot more protection then the stock roof but connecting it to the frame is even better.

The truck pictured above did have the cage tied into the frame. On this rig it was expected to roll over and get up to do it again and again. Also this rig did not have the original type roof that offers some protection. This roof was only a single sheet of steel so all of the protection needed to come from the cage.

On Jon's 4Runner the cage does not tie into the frame. This is his family rig and he tries not to roll it much. As you may know Jon's 4Runner rolled over twice on the trail last year after being hit in the rear. The cage in it at the time held up very well and did not bend. After the accident this original cage was removed and one of out kit cages installed. The kit cages we sell are made from DOM steel that is stronger than the mild steel cage that was originally in there. For this application there is no plans to tie it into the frame.