My runner is finally done but now Ive run into a new problem: The night I finished it I drove it home and parked it untell the next day when I woke up and went to start it, the truck hesitated (sp?) to start like the batt. was dead or the starter was going out, but it did start. The next time I got in it it took longer to start like the batt. was even more dead, then the third time it wouldn't start at all. I jumped it and that worked (hesitated but it did start slowlly)but as soon as I turned the key off and back on, nothing it didnt even try to turn over just click click. After that I parked it and left it untell the next day, when I got back the truck started again on its own??? I took it down to checker and they tested the batt and the alternater, both were good. The lady told me she thought it sounded like a slow drain. when I got it back home and turned it off I tried to start it again and nothing???? Ive never had anything like this happen. I did cut the wires on the rear bumper for the tow hitch so I could remove the bumper, I just have them hanging there would that drain the batt.??? sorry so long

I think you answered your own. I would think that the starter needs to be rebuit. Plenty of writeups out there.

Originally posted by IANWEBER
I did cut the wires on the rear bumper for the tow hitch so I could remove the bumper, I just have them hanging there would that drain the batt.??? sorry so long
No. Even if one or more was touching another and causing a short, it would only be when you were using those circuits (ie, signaling, braking, or had lights on), it wouldn't be a continuous drain.

If you have to crank it a while before the engine starts, you may be draining the battery that way, and not allowing enough time to charge back up to full capacity. This kinda matches your description.

My truck is doing the same thing. Went thru 2 starters then i rebuilt the starter my self with the new contacts from NAPA. Still same thing. I've replaced ignition switch, starter, added second ground. A mechanic told me it is my battery, but it always reads 12.45 volts ( it's an optima red top). When he puts a jumper to it, it always started. I confused also.

Originally posted by LONG84
My truck is doing the same thing. Went thru 2 starters then i rebuilt the starter my self with the new contacts from NAPA. Still same thing. I've replaced ignition switch, starter, added second ground. A mechanic told me it is my battery, but it always reads 12.45 volts ( it's an optima red top). When he puts a jumper to it, it always started. I confused also.
If you have to crank awhile before the engine starts, it could be a starter problem, or it could be an engine problem (especially if carbed, EFI usually starts pretty quick).

Is it reading 12.45V before, during, or after cranking??
Usually the voltage takes a dive during cranking then comes back up once the vehicle is started.
A battery can show a good voltage in a no load condition but be bad. The mechanic probably came to his conclusion after loading it down. If you have any doubts, most of the parts chains will chek batt and alt for free, get a 2nd opinion.

Also, the 2nd ground is a good idea that can be carried one further. Add another wire from alt to batt and batt to starter (or replace with heavier cable).

But mine is not starting at all!

Originally posted by IANWEBER
But mine is not starting at all!

mine's doing the same thing. sometime it starts and sometimes i get no crank. My motor is the 22r.
IANWEBER what kind of motor and year of truck, because it sounds like we have the same problem.

I had the same problem with my 86 22R, I put new contacts in my starter, cleaned all the contacts with the starter, and checked the battery terminals, then i realized the bolt on the clamp that holds the positive lead to the starter was dirty, and needed to be tightned, It was acting liek the battery was dead, but it was just that the power couldnt cut through the bad connections anymore, I even bought a new battery at the same time... it was a long frustrating lesson... so try cleaning EVERY bit of conecting copper in the area with pb blaster and a wire brush.

In the case of dangling wires, I wanted to point out that you would be blowing fuses before draining your battery I think.

Personally, I think it is a combination of a bad battery (under load) and bad/dirty connections... which can cause the most interesting problems.

Possibly just bad connections... I guess I would try that first, as previously mentioned.

(Actually I would just borrow someone else's battery and see if that fixes it)

I have a brand new 22re block and a 93 head in my runner so thats why it kinda makes me a bit ticked. I know the batt. is good because they tested it while it was running and said it was good. Im now thinking it may be the starter, a friend of mine told me that when starters go bad they can get tempermental like this. Is this true? I know the same thing happened to my G.F.'s 1963 F*$D truck and it ended up being the starter and the starter selinoid (SP?) but atleast hers would take a jump... Im so frustrated!! Can some one tell me where the starter selinoid is?? I've been told that the way to test this is to run a wire from the selinoid to the starter and if it turns over its the selinoid??? please help!

Originally posted by IANWEBER
I know the batt. is good because they tested it while it was running and said it was good
That is not a good way to check a battery. You can't tell if it's bad because the alt is charging it (or trying to). The battery should be tested w/engine off. If you think it's bad pull it out and go to PepBoys, etc. they'll test it for free.

Of course the engine needs to be running to check the alt (or bench tested at an alt shop).

i had similar issues.
so far i have gone through a few starters.
new terminals
new ground wires
redtop optima.

i think the biggest issue is the grounds on the frame. take something like a power wire brush and make sure it is real clean

the toy starters take a lot of volts to kick over, and if you have too much resistance it doesnt work.
also i use battery terminal sealer, it is a spray on by permatex and works good.

when my starters were being weird i could hold the key to the start position and it would sometimes fire it. which seemed to be some resistance or something.

but anyway it seems to be working fine now (knock on wood) but i did notice it hesitate the other night when i had left my headlights on for a little bit.

I would think the starter because mine did the same thing this winter. One day I went to leave and click. click.. click... I kept trying for a good 10 minutes or so before it finally started. When It did finally start it was slow cranking as well. Contacts were not connecting. A few days later same thing. It was very speratic. Some times it would click once sometimes minutes on end. mine had just enough left that when it finally hit a certain point it wold contact. Yours just might totally be shot. Try rebuilding the starter it is less than 10 bucks and If that dosent work try the solenoid thing you were talking about. I dont know how. luckily mine got fixed by the contacts. Good to go. :) my $.02

Does anyone know where the starter selenoid is in the engine bay???