I have a 97 ford f-150 4x4 that already has a 3" body lift. I was thinking that I would add an extra 3 inches with blocking in the rear leaf springs on top of my body lift. I know I will have to crank my torsion bars too. I would like to have a total of 6 inches. This is the cheapest way I could think of. Im kinda low on cash right now. What do ya'll think? Does anyone here have a picture of a 6" lift with the blocking in the rear leaf springs?

I doubt you can get a full 3" out of the t-bars. Generally 2" is the most you can get with out maxing out the front end.

I doubt you can get a full 3" out of the t-bars. Generally 2" is the most you can get with out maxing out the front end.

"I say boy, ya gots a pretty bad Studder"......LOL:laughing: :laughing:

If you want 6" there is No cheap way that you will be happy with, buy a 3" or 4" to go on your body lift.


:jester:

I have a 97 ford f-150 4x4 that already has a 3" body lift. I was thinking that I would add an extra 3 inches with blocking in the rear leaf springs on top of my body lift. I know I will have to crank my torsion bars too. I would like to have a total of 6 inches. This is the cheapest way I could think of. Im kinda low on cash right now. What do ya'll think? Does anyone here have a picture of a 6" lift with the blocking in the rear leaf springs?


:shaking: :shaking: blocks are only goign to give you bad axel wrap, loose the body lift, lose the IFS, swap in a d44 or 60 in the front, do a shakle flip in the rear and get some nice leafs and coils, theres your 6"

You can use the block off the F250 & F350's. You just remove the one that is in there and swap in the F250/350 block. The F250/350 one is 2" taller that the stock one (2") in the standard F150 4x. That way you can get a couple more out of the rear and then crank the bars up a bit to try and level it out. But we all know that one "should" not crank the torsion bars :D

There is always the add a leaf also... I would do the add a leaf before I added the 4" block though. I hate how the F150's really sag whan you toss a few hundred pound in the bed.

"I say boy, ya gots a pretty bad Studder"......LOL:laughing: :laughing: :jester:

Yea, I was just trying to run up my post count! :D Not sure what happened but did I get my point across? :flipoff2:

Yea, I was just trying to run up my post count! :D Not sure what happened but did I get my point across? :flipoff2:

Yes sir...........Reguardless of what NET says, I'd still keep the bodylift too. Wrenching is soo much easier.


:jester:

I think I am going to take NetBSD advice. Thanks guys for your input!

If you end up putting another block in the rear, by all means dont double stack like all the lift kits have you do. I'm not a fan of blocks at all, but if your going to do just have one. And like SW99 said, you have a factory lift block thats 2 inches tall. That block also has an arm hanging out to the side that functions as the lower bump stop. I dont believe you would be able to us the F-250 350 block. The 97up F-150's have 2.5 inch wide leafs and blocks. And the HD's have 3 inch wide leafs.

If you want a set of 4in lift blocks made for your truck let me know. I have a set from my Fabtech ifs lift. I discarded the factory block and lift block for custom leafs.

Heres a pic of the 4in blocks, just set up for mock up height, but never driven on.
http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/8286/liftblock19xw.th.jpg (http://img354.imageshack.us/my.php?image=liftblock19xw.jpg)

You all are a bunch of fawking morons. This entire thread turned from a newbie asking a STUPID question, to a bunch of newbies trying to act like they know what they are talking about. Ya, a SAS is a great way to go about it cheaply! Blocks also cause axle wrap regaurdless of how theyre set up. Shut the fuck up unless you really know.:evil:

You all are a bunch of fawking morons. This entire thread turned from a newbie asking a STUPID question, to a bunch of newbies trying to act like they know what they are talking about. Ya, a SAS is a great way to go about it cheaply! Blocks also cause axle wrap regaurdless of how theyre set up. Shut the fuck up unless you really know.:evil:
Yea, What he Said:p

You all are a bunch of fawking morons. This entire thread turned from a newbie asking a STUPID question, to a bunch of newbies trying to act like they know what they are talking about. Ya, a SAS is a great way to go about it cheaply! Blocks also cause axle wrap regaurdless of how theyre set up. Shut the fuck up unless you really know.:evil:

Stupid crap like what this guy said, along with whatever reason there was to talk shit make no sense. If you dont have anything helpful to input, then take your waste of time comments about people you obviously know nothing about to the chit chat forum. And being the bad ass you are, I'm sure we'll all see your next post full of more crap, acting like you really know something. Grow up.

what the hell crawled up el ranger loco's snatch?

You know, I wouldn't normally reply to someone like that. But his lack of respect towards someone trying to get tech help no matter how advanced or novice the question is, is immature. And stating everyone else doesnt know what their talking about is putting his foot in his mouth. Yes an SAS is o good idea, but it also has its drawbacks. If you truck is a daily driver, getting a solid axle equipped with good brakes, bearings, the proper suspension to fab up to your truck, and a gearset that will match your rear would be far more $$$ than what you asked about or an IFS lift.

In the end, I know who's the real moron.

You all are a bunch of fawking morons. This entire thread turned from a newbie asking a STUPID question, to a bunch of newbies trying to act like they know what they are talking about. Ya, a SAS is a great way to go about it cheaply! Blocks also cause axle wrap regaurdless of how theyre set up. Shut the fuck up unless you really know.:evil:

sounds to be like your a newb to pbb, this is where people come to get useful info/advise about stuff they are doing, nobody asked you to point out a newb question or to act like billy bad ass over there, so get the fuckin dildo outa your ass and post something useful

You know, I wouldn't normally reply to someone like that. But his lack of respect towards someone trying to get tech help no matter how advanced or novice the question is, is immature. And stating everyone else doesnt know what their talking about is putting his foot in his mouth. Yes an SAS is o good idea, but it also has its drawbacks. If you truck is a daily driver, getting a solid axle equipped with good brakes, bearings, the proper suspension to fab up to your truck, and a gearset that will match your rear would be far more $$$ than what you asked about or an IFS lift.

In the end, I know who's the real moron.

yeah a sas might be a little more $$ but i was looking at lifts kits today and some for IFS run into 3k at my local shop, a SAS'ed rig can and will run properly as a DD if done right. but with a SAS youll see more flex and it will be alot stronger then IFS for when you hit the real wheelin. but thats just my .02

I have a 97 ford f-150 4x4 that already has a 3" body lift. I was thinking that I would add an extra 3 inches with blocking in the rear leaf springs on top of my body lift. I know I will have to crank my torsion bars too. I would like to have a total of 6 inches. This is the cheapest way I could think of. Im kinda low on cash right now. What do ya'll think? Does anyone here have a picture of a 6" lift with the blocking in the rear leaf springs?

Go to your local hardware store and get some fence pipe, cut it up into 3" sections and put it on top of your body lift. I think el ranger loco forgot for a second how critical torsion bars are to extreme rockrawling. seriously...:rolleyes: Post reported.

At the risk of getting pissed on here, you should rethink the whole block thing unless you're never planning on going off road. If it's going to be a mall crawler, then blocks are fine. The trouble with blocks is they have a tendancy to fail when put in high stress situations due to axle wrap. I've seen blocks break on the trail and I've seen them spit out. If you're very lucky the axle will just bounce around until you notice something is very wrong. Unlikely though. What generally happens is once the spring perchs are no longer keeping the axle from rotating the axle torques up and snaps the pinion, then you're extra screwed. You're better off saving money until you can afford to do it right. Friends don't let friends run blocks.

Glad somebody thinks the way I do about Las Tocos Locos. Hey, I look at it this way, I have a 75 F-100 and a 71 bronco for a straight axle, I'll keep my DD IfS. And damn does my truck turn like no other. Yes an SAS would be pricey, but I would love to help make it happen. And an IFS lift isnt cheep,but I have no idea how much a four by shop charges to install. I hope you or someone u know can do it yourself.

I agree, blocks can lead to bad things. In this pic, I dog tracked down the hiway wondering whats going on, on the way home, and yes I was drunk.......a long time ago.
http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/7752/scan00321bw.th.jpg (http://img73.imageshack.us/my.php?image=scan00321bw.jpg)

What the hell happened to this place? You fuckers are killin me!:flipoff2:

So, rather then correcting axle wrap with traction bars, you guys suggest not running blocks at all?

So, rather then correcting axle wrap with traction bars, you guys suggest not running blocks at all?


No. Just that blocks are a leverage point between the axle and leafs. Traction bars are still nice to have in my opinion, but blocks are just a cheap and lazy way to gain hight, and have negative effects creating more axle wrap. IMO

I have a 97 ford f-150 4x4 that already has a 3" body lift. I was thinking that I would add an extra 3 inches with blocking in the rear leaf springs on top of my body lift. I know I will have to crank my torsion bars too. I would like to have a total of 6 inches. This is the cheapest way I could think of. Im kinda low on cash right now. What do ya'll think? Does anyone here have a picture of a 6" lift with the blocking in the rear leaf springs?

I have a 2000 F150 with the IFS suspension that is identical to yours in which I have installed 8" of lift(6 suspension 2 body). First, you gotta be realistic about what you are going to do with the truck when contemplating any suspension setup. For trucks that see alot of street driving and only occasional offroading moderate usage of blocks will work fine. Mine is mostly a daily driver that has served double duty as my hunting rig in a few rough places and has been through a couple mud bogs. The 4" block that came with the Fabtech lift kit in the back has worked fine. If I did alot more hardcore wheeling with this truck or loaded it down alot then I would lean toward yanking the blocks in favor of springs. The problem with what you are wanting to do lies with the front IFS. It's true that you can gain some ride height by cranking up the torsion bars. But from my own limited experience with this suspension 3" is pushing the limit. I played with this myself on my own truck to see how far I could push things. I would agree with the other posters in that about the farthest you will go cheaply is with a 2" block in the rear and adjusting the torsion bars to level out the ride. This will cause the ride to be a little harsher but will increase the ride height. That will give you 5" of lift, which will clear 33's no problem or maybe even 35's if you don't mind a little minor trimming of plastic if your truck has the mud flaps and the spoiler like mine. If you're really serious about gaining more than 5" of total lift(susp+3"body) then its time IMO to look into aftermarket suspension lifts which can get costly.Just my opinion though. I'm not a suspension expert and am only speaking from my personal experience with my own truck.