anybody done it? I just ordered an insert from front range, hoping to open up my wagoneeer arm to fit the insert so I can have the taper going from the bottom up instead of the other way around..

Just hope the arm is big enough to fit the insert!

getting interference with the spring on the truck

http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/TechReports/MoPower/steering/mobox.jpg

and my draglink on my jeep goes UPHILL (I did replace the welded arm with a billet set, and just got threaded rods rather than welded but still uphill)



http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/TechReports/BornAgain/Suspension/frontshot.JPG

my stock pitman is tapered like that, but it wont help you much. its an isuzu thing, and i wish i had it like yours is.

Dallas

What about just FLIPPING the pitman arm. That way the pitman arm REALLY goes uphill (it looks like it drops about 3/4" right now)
:beer:

Mine's on top of the pitman arm. Angles were better that way. Works fine, no problems so far.

http://soderblom.net/bronco/tech/D44solid/trkT13.jpg
Big image (http://soderblom.net/bronco/tech/D44solid/trk13.jpg)

Well I was gonna say that you will bend your drag link with it set up like that........but.........I don't think parking that sucka on a rock would bend it. Talk about OVERKILL!! (and it looks to be the same diameter as mine!:D)

The MORE crossover steering for D30 jeeps puts the heim joint on top of the pitman arm. I never had any problems with it. I's say do it.

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
What about just FLIPPING the pitman arm. That way the pitman arm REALLY goes uphill (it looks like it drops about 3/4" right now)
:beer:

The splines are tapered, you can't flip them.

Pete

It looks to me like your draglink would hit the frame when the passenger tire was compressed.

What about just getting a slightly shorter pitman arm that didn't reach over the spring?

the pass side is a tad lower with the new arms on there, and with the springs allready reverse arch and about 5 1/2" of up travel at the pass side I don't think that is an issue - these pics might be better. As for the truck when the arm is centered it is righ on top of the spring so a shorter arm wouldn't help - but the jeep is more of an issue I think

passenger side clearance
http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/TechReports/BornAgain/Steering/DSC00774.JPG

you can see the draglink goes uphill - it actually works (been driving it) but proabably better on top.
http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/TechReports/BornAgain/Steering/DSC00775.JPG

Pitman arm lenth is perfect really, just too low
http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/TechReports/BornAgain/Steering/DSC00777.JPG

k, some of ya run it on top - so anyone use an insert to do it? My plan is to take my carbide burr to open the hole up for the insert and then weld it in - see any issues with that? Insert is in the mail so it should be done soon :)

if i were to use an insert i wouldn't weld it at all, where's it got to go ? welding on the arm just weakens it, several toy arms with the FROR insert that were welded have failed. granted the toy arms are much smaller where the TRE goes through.

personally, i don't see why you can't flip the arm. the post above said the splines were tapered. i thought the steering box was tapered not the arm ?

- jack

Originally posted by morpheus
if i were to use an insert i wouldn't weld it at all, where's it got to go ? welding on the arm just weakens it, several toy arms with the FROR insert that were welded have failed. granted the toy arms are much smaller where the TRE goes through.

personally, i don't see why you can't flip the arm. the post above said the splines were tapered. i thought the steering box was tapered not the arm ?

- jack

they're both tapered.

believe me, I tried to flip the arm first :flipoff2:

well if I have a hole drilled through the arm for the insert it can either go up or down, not likely to go up since the link is attached to the TRE but down, suppose a big fat washer but still come awn..

Maybe more of a light weld, real thin since the forces are more lateral really anyway. I got a 110 welder I don't think I am gonna kill it too bad :)

I don't have the insert yet, might have to turn it down (grinder) if it is too large for the end of the pitman arm. Just thought I'd see if anyone has done it..

Why not use a CJ pitman arm?

Perfectly flat and just a little shorter than the Waggy.

teenie weenie ends in that, so I'd need to have it reamed out for the larger stuff anyway. It would not be enough lift either - the waggy one drops maybe a half inch or so, I need more than that.

Thanks for the suggestion though.