Anyone here running CTM's with 38" tires? What kind of wheeling have they survived? I am wanting to bump up from 36's and I am trying to find out if the d44 will survive. It would definitely be the cheaper route vs a d60. Let's hear the war stories. :cool:

Was thinking of going this route myself, along with Superior or Warn shafts..
Definately cheaper then buying a 60 and rebuilding it, but then I started thinking.. Where's the next breaking point going to be? What I'm afraid of is moving it into the differential.. would hate to start breaking R&P's or carriers instead of u-joints..

My vote goes to the Dana 44 knuckles breaking next.

Did you happen to read Lance's Tech Article on CTM's?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/productreviews/ctm/index.html

All you questions are answered here!

Ok, here's the real question then, and yes I've read the review.

on a full sized '79 Bronco, I want to run large tires.. 38, or possibly even 42's..
Should I just bite the bullet, and go with a 60, costing me nearly 2 grand by the time I re-gear, lock, 35 outers, etc..

Or for half the cost, go with a 44 built with moly axles, and CTM joints?

The smart side of me says only a 60 will withstand that kind of abuse...
The miser in me says that I could probably get a 44 to work..

The wild side of me says I should just buy 2 1/2 ton axles to put in there..

Dude, w/out ripping on the CTM's or aftermarket shafts, etc, you're still trying to make the 44 something it's not (esp to handle 42s, and even for 38s on such a heavy vehicle). In the long run you'll be better off w/the D60 front. Otherwise it's like trying to build a 302 to match the torque and hp (and longevity) of a mildly warmed over 460 - it can be done but the finished product is still not as good. My .02. But I feel your pain, D60 fronts are expensive, try Harris in the Springs, that's where I got mine for $1k which was cheap at the time (ouch!). If you were building an early bronco or Scout or anything smaller my opinion might vary, but the curb weight on '78/9 Broncos is up there (upper 5ks/low 6k I'd guess as my '90 is low to mid 5ks and the 78/9s ARE considerably heavier).

I say go for the 60. I am currently running a 44 with 38 inch sx's, with Warn chromoly shafts. I've gone through both u-joints in a year, as well as all the ball joints, and a ring and pinion. You also have to consider the load on your ball joints, wheel bearings, housing, and tubes. These components on the 60 will hold up alot longer than the 44

Pretty much exactly what I was thinking.
Now to find a 60..

Originally posted by big78bronco
with Superior or Warn shafts..


Superior:confused:
Got a link?

Originally posted by Rubicrawler
Did you happen to read Lance's Tech Article on CTM's?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/productreviews/ctm/index.html

All you questions are answered here!

Yes I have read Lances's article. I should have been more specific in my post. I want to know if anyone is running this combo in an EB. I'm pretty sure my rig is quite a bit heavier than Lance's, so the article still leaves questions unanswered. I also believe that a d60 is the best route, but if I can make my d44 survive I'll save about $1700 if you take into account new gears, locker, shafts, etc... I'm thinking that a $300 investment may be worth a try.

Superior Axle (http://www.superioraxle.com/)

From what I've heard, they are stronger then the Warn, but don't offer a lifetime warranty, only 2-year? But, if you order from Drivetrain warehouse, they have a no-questions asked lifetime warranty on them.

I'm thinking that a $300 investment may be worth a try.

Plus, if you do end up destroying things, you can always sell whatever's left...

How much clearance do you lose with a D60 vs a D44?

Same question for a 9" vs a 10.25", actually...

It seems to me that the Dana 60 is not really that much more expensive. You still have to buy shafts, locker, gears and CTMs for a dana 44. If you already have all these you could sell your 44 and recoup some of the cost to build the 60.

Heck I just sold my stock 44 with disks for $650 and bought a king pin RC60 housing and steering knuckles for $600.

I'd vote for the 60

I would run em in a EB (hell i am saving up for them now) but in a Fullsize, you need a 60, no if's and's or but's about it

with my set up, i am keeping the 1310 joints on my d shaft, this will now become the weak link, d-shafts joints are fast to replace and cheap

Originally posted by TB76Bronco
It seems to me that the Dana 60 is not really that much more expensive. You still have to buy shafts, locker, gears and CTMs for a dana 44. If you already have all these you could sell your 44 and recoup some of the cost to build the 60.

Heck I just sold my stock 44 with disks for $650 and bought a king pin RC60 housing and steering knuckles for $600.

I'd vote for the 60

My d44 is already built with ALL the goodies that are available short of the CTMs. You still have to spring for everything else for your d60 - lockers, gears, steering, shafts, brakes, etc...so you're still looking at at least $1200 more. Don't get me wrong, I would much rather have a d60. It's all an issue of $$$.

So, back to the question that hasn't been answered yet. Are there ANY EB's or similar sized rigs here running this setup? How has it held up?

No question about the fullsize. Yoou NEED the 60 up front, but with an EB, you can ottally get away with a 44. My bro just got the CTM's for his CJ7, and is goign to the hammers this weekend. I know how he drives, so if he doesn't break them, I know no one else will. He has a D44 on a CJ7 with 38's, and some MASSISVE room for flex. He has a 460 BB, C6, 205, 44 front, 60 rear, 1/4 ellip rear, Radius arms in the rear, SOA on 4" springs up front, Lockright, 4.88's, CTM's, Warns, 38's on Champions. This thing works, and he is not scared to use all 4 barrels of the 460 on there. He fully gets it, and if anyone breaks the CTM's, he WILL this weekend at the HAmmers.

Dimtiri

Sorry dude. I'd guesstimate the curb weight of your rig and hp. Maybe figure crawl ratio, describe your driving style and type of terrain.... and then post to the General forum.

Originally posted by Flatty
No question about the fullsize. Yoou NEED the 60 up front, but with an EB, you can ottally get away with a 44. My bro just got the CTM's for his CJ7, and is goign to the hammers this weekend. I know how he drives, so if he doesn't break them, I know no one else will. He has a D44 on a CJ7 with 38's, and some MASSISVE room for flex. He has a 460 BB, C6, 205, 44 front, 60 rear, 1/4 ellip rear, Radius arms in the rear, SOA on 4" springs up front, Lockright, 4.88's, CTM's, Warns, 38's on Champions. This thing works, and he is not scared to use all 4 barrels of the 460 on there. He fully gets it, and if anyone breaks the CTM's, he WILL this weekend at the HAmmers.

Dimtiri


Thanks. Please post the results of his test :eek:

:nuke: goes the d44

Well The auto allows for slippage, so I do not see the massive problem. We ran teh con and the hammers before with the stock crap, and no broken u-joints, but he was taking ti easy. He says he is gonna hammer the crap out of them, so we shall see.

Dimtiri