looking to lift using pucks. good/bad idea? any suggestions?
someone said to flip springs. I already have the bigger shackles on. is this a good idea? instructions, helpful hints, and suggestions are greatly appreciated!

clueless newbie lookin to raise the lowered!

88 yj 4.2 5spd
31 muds w/ shackles

do a search for SOA and learn something:flipoff2:

If you are keeping the 31's a puck lift might do it...depends on how well you can use those 31's. If you are going to go to a 33 forget the body lift take two buddies, a case of beer, a full day or two and go soa....and prepare to say things like..nice...wow..look at that flex....all be darned that was easy.

Of course nothing is ever as easy as what it should be.

gawd if i read another post about fawking pucks im gonna :barf: do the SOA and get some real lift......body lift is for fine tuning, not for your complete lift!!

parts for soa:

1) spring perches (but if you are cheap you can reuse the old ones)
1) z-link drag link or cross-over steering setup
1) set of brake line extenders.....if you wanna do it right
1) welder
1) hour of time to complete the job if you have airtools


total cost, no more that 300$

If you can do a complete soa from it driving with no lift to it driving with 4 inches of lift by your self in less than an hour you should be on a nascar pit crew.

Maybe its just me...I like to measure twice weld once. I like to double check to make sure everything is tight.

Hell what do I know...Just dont expect it to be something you can do on your lunch hour.

hell....it took me an hour just to get motivated enough to start....:flipoff2:

plan on a least a weekend to do a soa. and do the soa, it is WELL worth it in the long run not to dodge it.

$300 to do a SOA on a YJ ? You must be on crack. You failed to mention 1 or 2 things you need.

To do a SOA on a YJ keeping the stock axles you need:


spring perches $40 (f & r)
new ubolts ( never reuse) $60
new shocks $130-300 (if your old ones still fit you did
something wrong)
xfer case SYE $300 (if you want to actually drive it)
new rear driveshaft $270
lengthen front driveshaft $100
longer brake lines $100 for decent braided ones
drop pitman arm $50
steering fix $40-600 depending what you do
sway bar disconnects or change link length $20-100
longer front trac bar or JKS slip loc trac bar $200
new meats for all that lift $400-1200

That adds to a little more than $300 using my calculator.:flipoff2:

Ben

89 YJ- 95 Chevy 4.3L, 700r4, SOA +2", Ford 8.8
"Let the kids pay for their own college I have a Jeep"

Originally posted by jeepboyben
$300 to do a SOA on a YJ ? You must be on crack. You failed to mention 1 or 2 things you need.

To do a SOA on a YJ keeping the stock axles you need:


spring perches $40 (f & r)
new ubolts ( never reuse) $60
new shocks $130-300 (if your old ones still fit you did
something wrong)
xfer case SYE $300 (if you want to actually drive it)
new rear driveshaft $270
lengthen front driveshaft $100
longer brake lines $100 for decent braided ones
drop pitman arm $50
steering fix $40-600 depending what you do
sway bar disconnects or change link length $20-100
longer front trac bar or JKS slip loc trac bar $200
new meats for all that lift $400-1200

That adds to a little more than $300 using my calculator.:flipoff2:

Ben

89 YJ- 95 Chevy 4.3L, 700r4, SOA +2", Ford 8.8
"Let the kids pay for their own college I have a Jeep"


Did.......he..........say.........sway bar disconnects and a longer front trac bar????????????? :laughing: BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHHAH!!!!!!

Oh man, almost fell out of my chair. I think I spotted. :emb: :D

Originally posted by The Rockslut



Did.......he..........say.........sway bar disconnects and a longer front trac bar????????????? :laughing: BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHHAH!!!!!!

Oh man, almost fell out of my chair. I think I spotted. :emb: :D

a "telescoping" trac bar no less :rolleyes:
Well there's 300.00 you can subtract! :flipoff2:

The sway bar links and trac bar are of course optional. If you want to drive it down the highway without staining your shorts. =). The rest however is pretty much manditory. He didn't say if he wanted it to be streetable or not.

Ben.

Yes they are optional, but i daily drive a full width YJ with 39" TSL's, beadlocks and extended wheelbase down the road with one finger on the wheel like a cadillac.

Those parts are not necessary to make it stable on the street but it all matters on how you set things up.

:rolleyes: Is JU down today????

that would be cool if there was a way to set up keyword finders in the board. And when it senses certain words it doesn't allow the post to be made.......

cheap lift? haha. just cut out all the sheet met from around the back tires and give the front fenders the flatty look and make it look like it's not riding on its tires . :flipoff2: :D actually, i don't recommend it, just suck it up and save for new springs or soa.

Im sure glad you other guys chimed in...I was starting to wonder if it should really take me a year and a half to completely rebuild a rig...twice. If I could do a weekend of work in an hour I would have been done if a couple of months.

now i just want to say that driving around with out a sway bar can be very dangerous!

now if i can just find mine;)

now if i can just find mine

You can have mine...... it's somewhere in my garage. hahaahha

www.epuck.com has great deals on hockey pucks (they are even NHL regulation) ....I am in the process of doing a 2 puck lift on my 2a so I can clear the distributor without sawzalling the firewall.

30 pucks from epuck.com $30 after shipping

1rustyrig

If you have a chevy powerplant summit can supply a low profile Dis. Its nice for the 2a...Ask me how I know.

But then what the hell would I do with all these freakin' hockey pucks????? :)

Not much ice in CA, huh

sell em on e-bay, people will buy anything on there,

The low profile distributor will let you keep a lower center of gravity.

It is made by MSD so its quality, summit part number= MSD-84697

run ya a little under 150$

Thanks for the distrib info '46...now I just need to offload some hockey pucks....hehehe....I bet I could sell 'em to some canucks...they are pretty amped on hockey since they FINALLY won the gold this year....

I was dead set against SOA when I started my project in January...I figured that I didn't need it...but the more I read the more I think I should just do it since I have the body/frame/power plant in seperate parts of my garage....

1rusty rig

I did do an soa on my 46, I wouldnt do it any other way. I used CJ springs. I had to extend the frame to do so but it was well worth it. I extended the wheel base while I was at it. That helped me fit the small block and sm 465 in there. I dont have any way to post pics but if you have any questions I will try to help you out.

46 - I already bought a full set of 2 1/2" Superlift springs and would like to give them some wear before going SOA...I guess I could use them (should allow me to keep the frame length stock)... I don't want to change the axles out just yet ($$$ running low)... don't know what to do....

Yeah I did a "cheap lift" on my XJ. That whopping 4 3/4" fr/5"rr cost me @ $500 in order to balance my flex as well as tow a trailer and other heavy stuff. ( engine blocks, axles, T-cases, etc). Thats NOT counting the $440 in tires. :flipoff2: ProComp A/Ts 31x10.50s at the least. (hey, it's a good all-around tire for my needs). And also, gotta have the accessories, (winching stuff) as well as the other extraction and repair tools.
Better watch out! That bug will bite you in the ASS BAD.:flipoff2::D :beer:

Hogg,
If you have a welder and some fabbing skills, or a friend that knows how to use a welder, a springs-over-axle, SOA, lift is the cheapest way to get 4.5"-5.5" lift on your YJ. I've done 10 SOA's over the years, on all kinds of rigs, and it's still the most lift for the least cash. I have done several SOA's for less than $300 (none were a YJ) reusing some parts like U-bolts and perches. The 'puke' method is incremental, and you'll wind up taking them out eventually. The most expensive part of a YJ lift will be the slip joint eliminator kit. You might go to my website for a step-by-step set of instructions. http://homepage.mac.com/jefe/
Before you do a lift of any kind, examine your eventual needs and goals with the rig. If you want a cheap buildup than includes more power, more H.D. everything, lots of clearance under the axles, heavier axles, bigger tires, consider buying a wrecked/rotted '80-end of production FSJ Wagoneer. Depending on the smog restrictions where you live, consider taking the whole drive train from the Waggie and transplanting it to the YJ. 360, V-8/TF727/NP t.case/ D44 front/AMC20HD or D44 rr (depending on the year). Then as you install all this stuff, you can do a sano SOA with flat top knuckles, steering over and reuse the waggie driveshafts (cut down and reballanced after the fact). I've know several folks who have gone this route and they are very happy with the result. No adapter$. Low cost. Labor intensive.
regards, as always, jefe