: Marlin 4:1 Case Clearancing
Kamster1200 04-03-2002, 08:25 AM :beer: :beer:
Beers to the group!
I am in the middle of my 4.7:1 Marlin install and the install directions are not very clear. I called to try and get an electronic copy so the pictures would be better, but they said they do not have it??????
Anyhooooo,
How much do I need to take off the case to clearance for the countershaft?
If nobody knows I will just try trial and error.
TIA
Brandon 04-03-2002, 08:34 AM yea they do, and it is being reworked..
product report (http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/ProductReviews/Marlin4_7_install/review.htm)
The directions are HERE (http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/ProductReviews/Marlin4_7_install/howto.htm)
with pictures HERE (http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/ProductReviews/Marlin4_7_install/thumbnails/thumbnails.html)
Feel free to email or call ME if you have questions, glad to help..
Brandon 04-03-2002, 08:37 AM to answer your question all cases are different, honest. So really you have to do the trial n error (fit the gear in there). It is simple really - first you remove the old large gear and replace it with the new one from Marlin. Then the whole main shaft can be test fit in the case to check for clearancing.
This is the same method for the other gear that rides in the other part of the reduction box, and when you start getting it together and slide the forks in you will need to clearance the little parts that are on the rods if that makes any sence. It is really a test n grind method though..
I was waiting for BigMike to help me clean up the directions (based on a complete tear down and install with my laptop right there taking notes) but it don't look like that is happenin so I will try to match the pics to the directions to make it easier. I'd appreciate any feedback so I can continue to make it clearer so that ANYONE can do it.
One thing I am gonna add is a blowup of the tcase, just need to scan n add it..
Kamster1200 04-03-2002, 11:52 AM I found the teardown directions helpful, but the overall quality of the xerox is what is lacking IMHO.
The only issues I found on teardown was the removal of a certain retaining clip that was a Motha to remove, even with the 5 pairs of snap-ring pliers I have.
A PDF version on thier website would work the best. That way I could print out as many copies as I wanted in case one gets messed up or gets beer spilled on it.
Thanks Brandon.
PS if I can ever help in any way, please let me know.
Brandon 04-03-2002, 12:02 PM yea, LOCK RING pliers are a must - snap ring pliers won't cut it. You can get a pair for about $15 though..
NoBrainR 04-03-2002, 07:17 PM Lock ring pliers are a definate must, plus they work good when tearing down the front end. At least for one clip each side. As far as case clearance, the only grinding I had to do on my 79 case was on the shift forks, non on the case. And yes the pics sucked, I did mine from a fit and grind viewpoint.
Domenic 04-03-2002, 08:10 PM Thats the easy part, wait till you do the shift fork:D
Brandon 04-03-2002, 09:54 PM why? Just a touch with the grinder and wallah!
Kamster1200 04-04-2002, 09:30 AM Thanks for all the input. I got it done last night and it was not that bad. I mean between the Marlin directions, Brandon's directions and pictures, and my FSM, it was a snap! While it still is fresh in my mind I will jot down a few notes,
The Marlin directions are pretty much "just for reference” The pictures are really unclear. It is helpful on teardown, but then again teardown is just teardown. The pictures showing the shift fork grinding were OK, but the section on the case clearancing is really poor. On my "85 EFI case I had to remove a small amount of material inside the middle case were there is a bulge to accommodate two of the xfer case mount bolts.
Yeah frickin' lock ring pliers are a must!
Brandon's instructions have great pictures but it seems like the instructions are still "under construction". There is no reference to match the pictures up with the annotation ( words ) and the pictures are out of order as far as I can tell. I may have missed it, but I do not remember any mention about replacing the oil galley tubes, there is a great picture though! ( Brandon, I am not bitchin' just giving my feedback )
I could not completely finish bolting it up because I ran out of RTV. So the R. out put flange will go on tonight. I am hoping that when I get the flange on and tight, a small issue I had with my speedo drive gear goes away. I installed the speedo gear last night and after tuning the case by hand the speedo gear would bind up a little. It was enough to cause the metal gear to cut into the plastic gear a little. We will see tonight.
The clearancing of the case and shift forks was easy with a dremel and my angle grinder. The only issue was when you are checking for clearance on the 4-lo shifter lobe, I was afraid I was going to drop the thing down into the main case and have to try and fish it out. Didn't happen.
Brandon 04-04-2002, 11:10 AM hey, not supposed to use ANY rtv puttin that thing together - DRY is the best way..
thanks for the suggestions, it is definately under construction but the crew quit workin for a while :)
Kamster1200 04-04-2002, 01:58 PM Dude, you say it right in the instructions I downloaded off your site! I will paraphrase " put silicone on the output shaft threads. Make sure to remove the old stuff first!"
:confused: :rasta: :smokin:
Now my only beef with the Marlin kit is I did NOT get a transmission output shaft seal or the xfer/tranny gasket.
I will call them about it.
Brandon 04-04-2002, 02:44 PM doh, yea that is so the oil doesn't leak through the flange there - ya got me. No RTV on seal surfaces though
gasket sealer (that yellow sticky stuff) is good though, not silicone
Ya shoulda got those seals - maybe I got yours cause I have extras from when our club bought a bunch :flipoff2:
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