In an effort to add a bit more tech in here, I present my latest build effort. So far, there are 18 images, with a few more to be added as I finish things up.

Here is how things started. Stock IFS front with a TuffCountry 5.5 lift running 36" TSLs. She actually did pretty good and held up to a ton of mudding and DailyDriver status. Playing with the monster trucks and crushing cars would be the front diffs down fall.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231218&stc=1&d=1140708575

While trying to decide to replace the stock ifs or doing a SFA, a pair of Rockwells fell into our lap for cheap. So the decision was made. Here she sits on Rockwells (straight rear) and 44" TSL's. Worked fairly well, but had horrendous axlewrap in the rear. Eventually wound up 4 linking the rear using dual shackled leafsprings. While the leafs I had were extreamly stiff, it surprised me how well it worked.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231214&stc=1&d=1140708510

Then, due to a lack of lubrication in the front axle, I trashed the pinion bearings. Came across a perfectly good stearing axle for cheap. Do a bit of diff swapping and bingo, four wheel steering. Here you can also see the lowers of the 4 link.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231215&stc=1&d=1140708510

Then I went and flopped the rig. Purely my fault. Lost a hydro line, lost steering, and drove up the side of the 'gulley'. Never once thought to come off the gas. :rolleyes:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231216&stc=1&d=1140708510

Cage time after that. Stripped the interior so I could work easier.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231217&stc=1&d=1140708510

Another shot of the interior completely stripped. That was actually kind of fun to do.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231220&stc=1&d=1140709440

Stripped the bed off and shortened the frame a wee bit. I had gotten tired of dragging my ass everywhere and bouncing it off of trees. Heres what left.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231221&stc=1&d=1140709440

And here is a shot of how the rear wound up. If I shorten that reciever hitch a few inches, Ill have a 90* departure angle. I think Ill let it ride and see if it affects me any.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231222&stc=1&d=1140709440
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231223&stc=1&d=1140709440

The tube work begins. Started out with a nice set of hand drawn plans. Two bends into it, I walked over to the plans, picked em up and tossed em in the trash. My hats off to those of you who can make this stuff look easy and slick.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231224&stc=1&d=1140709496

Another look at the rear bobbed flatbed thing I created. Tube work still in progress.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231226&stc=1&d=1140709874

A rear quarter view with things mostly completed.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231227&stc=1&d=1140709874

And straight on from the rear.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231228&stc=1&d=1140709874

Pulling back a little bit to show the whole truck.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231229&stc=1&d=1140709874

And a view of the interior cage work. The inner cage is tied to the outer main hoop thru the cab.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231230&stc=1&d=1140709931

Another view showing some more of the inner cage. And I know I missed a node in there, but there will be a couple more stringers x-ing out from that center portion to cover the rear of the cab roof.http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231231&stc=1&d=1140710260

When I went to put the dash back in, it wouldnt fit. Figgered no problem, Ill cut around the tube and make it work. MOre trouble than it was worth. So I disassemble the dash, made a tube dash, and put all the components in.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231232&stc=1&d=1140710260
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=231233&stc=1&d=1140710260

Still to do are the rear coil-overs and wiring the rear lights and rock lights. OH, and stereo install!

This evolution has been both extremely fun, and extremely taxing. First time doing tube work, and it prolly shows. I only expect to get a couple of years more out of this truck, then Im going to strip it all out and put it all in a chasis of some sort.

Nice recap.

Who cares if its your first tube work. Look good.

When I did mine one mistake drove me crazy. To the point I was going to cut it all off and start over. Lucky for me my freinds talked me out of it and No one has ever seen it or at least said anything about it.

Again, nice work

thanks for the contribution. your truck is like my cruiser. built to wheel, not look pretty. my tub is so bent/twisted and the pass side frame rail is 3/4" forward of the drivers side. if i get the tube work within 1/2" i call it good. i know its tweaked but no one else can and in two more years ill have to retire it anyway.. judging by the looks of your truck your not afraid to wheel it.. that counts for alot more to most people than someone with a pretty truck that dont want to get it scratched.. keep up the good work and post some more pics!!

chris:cool2:

Got the ol girl off the frame stands on sitting on her own coils! Still have a bit of tweeking to do but its a major step.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=232090&stc=1&d=1141136333

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=232091&stc=1&d=1141136333

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=232092&stc=1&d=1141136333

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=232093&stc=1&d=1141136333

Got the ol girl off the frame stands on sitting on her own coils! Still have a bit of tweeking to do but its a major step.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=232093&stc=1&d=1141136333

How'd ya get it out of the garage?? Heh just kiddin, great recap and nice bobbed rig.

Drop the air pressure to almost 0 and drive out. Have done it many times. Will do it many more! At one point the other night as I was jacking the rear up enough to gtet the coilovers in, I almost ran out of roof room!

that is one bad dak!:smokin: That thing has to do some sick wheeling. Nice build man. Keep it up !

that is one bad dak!:smokin: That thing has to do some sick wheeling. Nice build man. Keep it up !
Thanks. It will go just about anywhere Dan Dibble's can, the weak link is the loose nut behind the steering wheel. Im still learning how to drive this thing!

beautiful work man. This thing is going to be amazing.

how do u like the 4wheel steer? how do u have it hooked up, auto centering?

With a 140 someodd inch wheelbase, 4wheel steer is a must. I love it. Still learning it, but I love it. It is plumbed pump to orbital to rear spoolvalve to cooler to pump. Non auto centering, all manual.

Do the dak's have tone rings? How'd you get around that?

Do the dak's have tone rings? How'd you get around that?
Yep. On mine we machined the top of the 60's housing and installed the pickup for it.

Not a normal viewer of this forum, but i like your rig. how are the 3550 and the 231 holding up? any plans on replacing those. also what gears are you runnin in those rockies?

American, yes, the Daks have tone rings in the rear end. Mine dosent. So I get no speedo, and the computer isnt exactly happy. But then again, its got a lot to be unhappy about. No O2 sensors, a 318 computer running a 360, and no tone ring. :) I dunno how the thing is actually running! But its running pretty good.

Jeepsta, The drivetrain is holding up well. It has completely surprised me honestly. I do have the fixings for a 203/205 doubler sitting on the side, and Im constantly on the hunt for a 4500. But untill I break the 3550/231, Im going to keep using them. And I think all rocks are 6.72, which is what Im running.

Hero have you thought about trying to splice the wires into the output shaft pick up on the trany or is there one on yours since it's a manual?

Hero have you thought about trying to splice the wires into the output shaft pick up on the trany or is there one on yours since it's a manual?

Havent thought about it, but In my workings under there, I dont remember seeing a pickup on the tcase. Ill have to give it a good looking over when I get home tonight.

Thanks for the idea.

On the automatics it is in the back of the trany. I know on Heeps it is in the t-case output shaft. If you don't have one you could get the cover from a heep t-case and put it on there you might have to use something like truespeed to adjust it but it should work.

Checked it out lastnight when I got home from work. There is no kind of electrical connection to the tcase that I could find. And realy, other than no speedo, Im not really concerned too terribly much.

Looks good. Get her together so we can test it.:flipoff2:

Dan

Sweet ass Dak :smokin:

have you thought about goin with some bling stuff from station to get auto centering and all that in the back? just wanted to know if it was one of those things you wished you had just couldnt spring for the first time

Checked it out lastnight when I got home from work. There is no kind of electrical connection to the tcase that I could find. And realy, other than no speedo, Im not really concerned too terribly much.
you have a manual tranny. The Autos won't shift right w/o the tone ring. Most people with vehicles new enough for it to matter don't wheel theirs the way you do, so that may have something to do with your non-caring attitude toward the tone-ring, and mine that says "I need it"

have you thought about goin with some bling stuff from station to get auto centering and all that in the back? just wanted to know if it was one of those things you wished you had just couldnt spring for the first time
Maybe on down the road I might go auto center. But at the moment, Im happy with what it has. And Im running mostly Stations stuff. Just the rear ram and the tank are not his stuff. The tank I made, and the ram was part of the initial build up.

you have a manual tranny. The Autos won't shift right w/o the tone ring. Most people with vehicles new enough for it to matter don't wheel theirs the way you do, so that may have something to do with your non-caring attitude toward the tone-ring, and mine that says "I need it"
Yea, due to the manual tranny, I wasnt expecting a sensor on the tcase. And yer right, most rigs this age arnt used like mine is. :) I might try to incorportate it somehow down the road. It would be nice to get rid of all the dang warning lights in the dash.

Well there is not VSS, because it uses a Tone ring. Not because of the tranny. It's just that it doesn't really matter if you have a manual tranny and don't care to know how fast you are going. Yea, lots of things won't work the way they should; but I would hope a few things would go haywire after that Rockwell/4-wheel steer swap you did. If not, I would question the high-tech properties of Dodge's designs. If they didn't add in something completely rediculous, just to be a pain in our ass when we want to build it, then what would a major manufacturer be good for?

Anyway, sorry to hijack...

Well, there are a few items that are kinda on my 'to do' list in order to clear up a constant check engin light and a bunch of other warning lights. Which I dont think Ill ever completely clear up since Im running a 5.9 mill with a 5.2 computer. But I want to help it out as much as I can. Topping the list is to find a 5.9 computer that was attached to a 5.9 mill with a manual tranny behind it. Thus far, its been hard to find, at least the right year. I did buy a '00 5.9/manual but it wont even run the motor. Something about the injectors being wired backwards (pos ground maybe?). Then I need to put a cat back in it with pre and post o2 sensors, and the ton ring. Yea, Im surprised the thing even runs!

You might give fastman a call and see if he can help with finding a PCM. Or you could always go with a custom flash from KRC or B&G.

Yea. I don't see anybody getting the tone ring to work in a Rockwell, anyway.

Yea. I don't see anybody getting the tone ring to work in a Rockwell, anyway.
I don't know if he got this working but this is what studlybilly was working on.
http://chuckstrucks.net/fordvss4.jpg

I don't know if he got this working but this is what studlybilly was working on.
http://chuckstrucks.net/fordvss4.jpg
:smokin: Just too bad I already have a D60/14FF, and I have no money for the big ass tires required to make the axle worth it, but... Sweet.

:smokin: Just too bad I already have a D60/14FF, and I have no money for the big ass tires required to make the axle worth it, but... Sweet.
I have it in my D60.

Ahh shit. Yall done got some gears turning in my head. I still have my old 9.25 axle in the bonepile. Im going to have to go tear that thing apart and see if I can get the tonering and sensor off of it and scab it onto the rockwell somehow. ::smokin::

post pics when ya do that, id like to see a good retrofit....then you could drive it on the road, isnt missouri like texas where pretty much anything goes?

Mississippi actually. And yea, by the books, Im not legal, but I could prolly get away with it. Dont expect to try it tho, the Rigs road manners arnt all that nice. Plus, street time on pinion breaks isnt a real good idea. But yea, Ill get some pics if/when I do the retrofit.

I don't know if he got this working but this is what studlybilly was working on.
http://chuckstrucks.net/fordvss4.jpg

I havent gotten a chance to hook a sensor up, but thats the general idea. Just so I'm clear on things that is a kit that is sold by chuckstrucks.net. I simply took a 13 dollar go-kart sprocket and drilled the holes out for it to bolt between the flanges (like what you see there). In this case I'll spend 13 bucks for a go-kart sprocket, 50 bucks for a brand new sensor, and save about 170'sh bucks on the actual kit. Being the teeth count of the kart sprocket is muuuuuch lower than an actual tone ring, I'm going to try and use a superlift speed calibrator and set it using GPS. That is the plan anyways.

Now that I have Hero's attention, is it true your using a NP231 in your truck??? I havent got to beat on my NP241 but I have a feeling I'm going to make into a "has been" with my current setup.

I havent gotten a chance to hook a sensor up, but thats the general idea. Just so I'm clear on things that is a kit that is sold by chuckstrucks.net. I simply took a 13 dollar go-kart sprocket and drilled the holes out for it to bolt between the flanges (like what you see there). In this case I'll spend 13 bucks for a go-kart sprocket, 50 bucks for a brand new sensor, and save about 170'sh bucks on the actual kit. Being the teeth count of the kart sprocket is muuuuuch lower than an actual tone ring, I'm going to try and use a superlift speed calibrator and set it using GPS. That is the plan anyways.

Now that I have Hero's attention, is it true your using a NP231 in your truck??? I havent got to beat on my NP241 but I have a feeling I'm going to make into a "has been" with my current setup.
Im going to have to tear into that rearend now and do some counting. With the r&p ratio we might be able to find a sprocket that has the right (or close to it) number of teeth to compensate for the tone ring being on the ring of the stock axle going to a tonering on the pinion. hmmm.

And, yes, its true Im using the stock NP231! :eek: All the drivetrain is stock with the exception of the 360, which is in its stock form. I do belive the 231 is a heavyduty version tho. Id have to check the tag to be sure.

What kind of setup are you going to be running? I believe the 6.72 protects the tcase from a fair bit of stress.

I have it in my D60.
I don't understand. They are available to purchase for $50 for a d60. I'm tryin to use a d70 tone ring in my 14FF. Rockwells or mogs and 49's is my dream, but I am in college right now and I'm using parts from my scrapped K10 to build this one.

I was just saying it shouldn't be a hard thing to do. I have a 78 d60 that I'm running a tone ring in now. The housing was machined to accept the pick up. I'm running a ARB in the back which was already setup to accept a tone ring. I think evildak had his carrier machined to accept one. Solidaxledurango runs his pick up in the rear cover.

oic what you are saying, but rockwells and mogs are alot different than the regular ass axles like d60s, d44s, 9.25s, etc. That's all.

Im going to have to tear into that rearend now and do some counting. With the r&p ratio we might be able to find a sprocket that has the right (or close to it) number of teeth to compensate for the tone ring being on the ring of the stock axle going to a tonering on the pinion. hmmm.

I at first considered getting a setup that matches the tooth count of the original tone ring. If you think about it, it really doesnt matter being if it reads the stock tooth amount it will still have a false reading because of tire size and you will still need to calibrate it digitally. Thats why I just went with a go-kart sprocket and am going to mock the setup shown above.

And, yes, its true Im using the stock NP231! :eek: All the drivetrain is stock with the exception of the 360, which is in its stock form. I do belive the 231 is a heavyduty version tho. Id have to check the tag to be sure.

What kind of setup are you going to be running? I believe the 6.72 protects the tcase from a fair bit of stress.

Ehh I'm on 53" michelins. I've considered dropping down to a 47" XML or even a 44 bogger to try and save my drivetrain (plus it could use a little more pep in its step). To be honest I twisted a 241 up pretty bad on 38.5's and my original half ton setup with 5.13 gears, but I aired the front end out with the skinny pedal mashed so something was bound to split. If it bites the dust then I'm going stak anyways..

I at first considered getting a setup that matches the tooth count of the original tone ring. If you think about it, it really doesnt matter being if it reads the stock tooth amount it will still have a false reading because of tire size and you will still need to calibrate it digitally. Thats why I just went with a go-kart sprocket and am going to mock the setup shown above.



Ehh I'm on 53" michelins. I've considered dropping down to a 47" XML or even a 44 bogger to try and save my drivetrain (plus it could use a little more pep in its step). To be honest I twisted a 241 up pretty bad on 38.5's and my original half ton setup with 5.13 gears, but I aired the front end out with the skinny pedal mashed so something was bound to split. If it bites the dust then I'm going stak anyways..

I think Im going to try to do all the math so that I dont have to use any calibration. Anybody happen to know the tooth count of the stock tone ring and what ratio it was in? I just havent had a chance to tear into my old axle yet. Want to get my rig finished first.

On the Tcase, dont know what to tell you. All I know is what I have and what Ive done. I do try to not shock the drivetrain if possible, maybe thats why my shit is holding together. I dunno. I do have a 203/205 waiting on the sidelines for when it does go boom.

Tooth count should be the same no matter what ratio. They compensate for the changes in the PCM. With that said it has to be about the same as the tooth count on a Ford Dana 60 tone ring. When recalibrating the PCM in mine it took the same settings for both rear ends to correct the speedo for the same size tires. If I was to have to do it again I would just get the rear main bearing retainer from a heep (it has the hole in it for the speedo pick up) and set it up like they have it. That way there isn't extra wires hanging low.

I think Im going to try to do all the math so that I dont have to use any calibration. Anybody happen to know the tooth count of the stock tone ring and what ratio it was in? I just havent had a chance to tear into my old axle yet. Want to get my rig finished first.

On the Tcase, dont know what to tell you. All I know is what I have and what Ive done. I do try to not shock the drivetrain if possible, maybe thats why my shit is holding together. I dunno. I do have a 203/205 waiting on the sidelines for when it does go boom.

Thats cool man, best I can do is wheel it and build it back stronger when it breaks. Just trying to get a feel for what I was in for.

With my first Ford 9" setup in the rear I actually drilled through the housing and put the sensor to where it would read the ring gear. Actually worked pretty good. Gerstner has a setup he puts on reo's that looks really spiffy.

Hero, from your avatar pic, that thing can flex pretty good. The front end appears to be leaf sprung. What kind of leafs are you using? How long are they? Ever figure how much they will travel? RTI?

If you have 9 1/4 Dodge axle, the tooth count for the tone ring is 108 teeth. I am in the process of doing a SAS coil over 4 link suspension on my 2000 Dodge Dakota. I am having Brea Auto in California make me a tone ring for my slip yoke coming out of my transfer case.
Murfdawg

Cool, thanks. Now I dont have to tear that dang thing apart.

Well, there are a few items that are kinda on my 'to do' list in order to clear up a constant check engin light and a bunch of other warning lights. Which I dont think Ill ever completely clear up since Im running a 5.9 mill with a 5.2 computer. But I want to help it out as much as I can. Topping the list is to find a 5.9 computer that was attached to a 5.9 mill with a manual tranny behind it. Thus far, its been hard to find, at least the right year. I did buy a '00 5.9/manual but it wont even run the motor. Something about the injectors being wired backwards (pos ground maybe?). Then I need to put a cat back in it with pre and post o2 sensors, and the ton ring. Yea, Im surprised the thing even runs!

wonder if there's any chance of your 2000 PCM running a '94 motor. if so I might be able to trade you a '94 auto PCM, but since the tranny was an RH back then I don't know if the PCM even cares auto/manual.... (for the '94 motor to be useful to me it's gotta be OBD-II, no way around it)

wonder if there's any chance of your 2000 PCM running a '94 motor. if so I might be able to trade you a '94 auto PCM, but since the tranny was an RH back then I don't know if the PCM even cares auto/manual.... (for the '94 motor to be useful to me it's gotta be OBD-II, no way around it)

I dont think the motor is the issue, its all the crap bolted to it like injectors and such. See, I have a 360 block with all the accessories (and I do mean all) from the 318 bolted onto it. Anything that plugged into the computer is from the 318.

If you want to try it, Im game, just pick up shipping the pcm to ya. I dont think the 94 PCM will work for me tho. Can you get a good clear pic of the connectors on that 94 PCM? Gotta see if it will even plug up first. :) Ill get some of my pcm tonight for ya.

Solidaxledurango runs his pick up in the rear cover.
Anybody know if this will cause issues?... I bet he never sees the mud. All the trails I've found down in the southeast so far, have mud between all the rocks. Not a problem for me, but just need to prepare for it.

HERO - where'd ya go? Let's see how she is performing. any more stuff done lately?

Anybody know if this will cause issues?... I bet he never sees the mud. All the trails I've found down in the southeast so far, have mud between all the rocks. Not a problem for me, but just need to prepare for it.

HERO - where'd ya go? Let's see how she is performing. any more stuff done lately?
Really isn't any different then the stock location. I had one burn up because brake fluid got into it but I don't think that mud would cause any problems.

I'd be a lot more worried about hitting things with it on the diff cover vs above, but I wouldn't expect much difference in mud/water exposure between the two locations.

Havent done anything to the rig since the Morris Mountain trip. See the thread calld The Rig is Done. And since Im in the process of moving to a new job, I dont see much being done until I get settled in. Then there will most likely be a LOT done :) Cleaning up the links, shaving the diffs. A touch of tube work, fixing the CEL [new O2 sensors, cat, vss]. Maybe linking the front (doubt it tho).

As far as the VSS thing, in the stock location on top of the diff, on my truck (back when mostly stock) that thing was under water an awful lot. Heck, see the very first pic in this thread. The only think that would affect the sensor would be a physical hit on something. Or prolonged submersion. My plan is to install a SYE and then put the tone ring and sensor up at the tcase to better protect it. Possibly intergrating a tcase brake since I dont have a parking brake on this thing.

I don't know why I was worried about mud. I first started that reply worried about rocks... retarded me.

I can't find that thread brosif. And my paypal wont' work anymore, so until I get that fixed no redstar for me. Oh well.

I topped it for ya American, and here is the link:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=469109

talked to you today about the steering you guys sell. looks like a killer rig. You going to shave the pumpkins on those axles?

I shaved mine with the USA 6x6 pans and they look great.

Yea, Im going to shave em, one of these days! :)

Trying to bring this one back from the dead. Where you at on this rig? Any updated pictures?

one more thing, as far as I know as long as you have all the 318 sensors and everything hooked up correctly, that computer shouldnt have a prob running the 360. Only difference now is physical size...I've heard of plenty of people doing that swap and running the 318 ecm with no problems..

if HERO is still around I know he'd have some firsthand input on that.