Hey folks, this axle is out of a mid 60's scout and im rebuilding it. But, i have a couple of questions??


1st.-The new bearings were set 10 timken bearings. They came as a race and bearing assembly. The race will pull off though and id like to know if i need to pound the race in first and then put in the axle shaft with bearing and retainer??? or just leave it together on the axle and push it in then tighten the axle down to get it seated??

Also, im looking to find out how necessary the inner seal is? There was only syalcone when i pulled it apart so do i put new sylacone around the shaft, or just leave it without one???
Thanks!!

Assuming it is an D44....

http://www.binderbulletin.org/forums/faq.php?faq=ihc_faq_1.0#faq_ihcfaq_1.17

Taken from the FAQ's at the BB..

Some common rear-axle questions pertaining to Scout II:

Should there be an "inner seal" deep in the axle tube?

One-piece "unit bearing"? Or two-piece "cup & cone" wheel bearing?

Below are answers from the Binder Bulletin "TechTalk" forum:


Posted By: Paul Reynolds
Date: 8/23/99 15:56

In Response To: Confused:rear axle bearings (Graham Boisvenue)

It sounds like you guys need a good shop manual. I've been into my rear axles way too many times now, so I guess I am as good as anyone to give this question a try.

First off, there are two different ways that the Dana 44 rear wheel bearings were lubricated. The axle out of my '76 had both inner and outer seals, and the bearings were lubed with axle grease. My '77 axle only had the outer seal, and it got it's lubrication from diff lube that sloshed down the tube to the wheel bearings. I was unfortunate enough to have BOTH axle housings completely striped down at the same time last fall. (One had a spun pinion bearing, but that is another story. While I had them apart I confirmed that they were indeed, EXACTLY the same, just as someone here on the digest told me. So you can use the inner seal on any axle, or leave it out no matter what year you have.

Next, there are two types of bearings. The old style is a two piece bearing where the outer race is pressed into the axle housing, and the inner race and bearings are pressed on the axle shaft along with the collar. The new style is all one piece and is pressed on the axle shaft with the collar, and slides into the axle housing when you put it all together. These are also 100% interchangable. Neither have a "side plate" between the bearing and the outer seal. This sounds like it is not the correct part, and you should take it back. The other bearing sounds like the correct bearing to use without the inner seal. There isn't any cross drilled anything, so if you want to get diff lube to the bearings, you have to leave the inner seal out.

The correct pieces that should be on the axle going from the outside in are:

1. retainer plate (4 holes in it, shaped like a flat tire) If there are recessions around the 4 bolt holes, these face to the outside.

2. Outer seal. The side with the deep groove in it faces inside. Pack this with multi-purpose or axle grease no matter what method of lubrication you use. This helps the seal work better when it is first installed.

3. Bearing. If you look down on the bearing, you will see that one side of the inner bearing race is a larger diameter then the other. The large side faces the outside. Pack this with multi-purpose or axle grease no matter what method of lubrication you use. This helps the bearing during break-in. It will wash away harmlessly into the diff fluid in the first hundred miles while the bearing breaks in.

4. Retaining collar. This goes on either way.

5. Inner seal. This is optional. If you use it, pack more grease in against the seal before you install the axle.

It is VERY important that the bearing and collar be professionally PRESSED off and on. Don't try the "hammer it on and off" method. I thought I was smart saving myself a few bucks to do that and it resulted in me losing an axle shaft while 4-wheeling in Left Hand Canyon earlier this spring. The axle shaft is held into the axle housing by two pieces. On one end, the retainer plate holds one side of the bearing. The retaining collar holds the bearing on the other end. It is the retaining collar that keeps the axle shaft inside the axle housing. If this collar slides back off the axle shaft, the bearing separates and the axle shaft (and your wheel) comes out and tries to pass you. By hammering on stuff you can mess up the tolerances just enough to ruin the axle shaft and retaining collar.

If I were you I would return all the bearings back to where they came from. Then go find a good machine shop that is willing order a set of genuine Timkin brand bearings, and press them on and off for you. Then I would leave out the axle seal and let the bearings get lubed by the diff fluid.

You can leave the inner seal out but I recommend putting one in. I would guess that slicon was put there because the seal was leaking or someone had no clue what they were doing. Put a inner seal in, pack some grease in the housing end, then slide the axle in with the race on the bearing. The race will seat itself.

By the way, were the old bearings set 10 or set 7? Being a 60's D44 it may have had the set7's.

(beat me to it:flipoff2: )
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Well, the old bearings didnt even come up in napa's computer but were deffinitely different than the new ones, but the same size it looks like. So you think i should find an inner seal?? without the old one, it will be hard. any idea of the part number????

You need to figure out what this axle really is. Is it flanged or tapered? If you don't know the difference then go over to BB or JustIH and read/search until you figure out. If it's a regular flanged D44 then Set10 is your bearing. Inner seal has pro's and con's...if you figure out what the axle really is then finding the seal won't be a problem.

R:D

If it's a regular flanged D44 then Set10 is your bearing.

R:D

Some early flanged axle Dana44's came with Set 7 bearings - they install technically backwards of a Set 10 and have an adjuster on one of the retainer plates and you must have the center button or block in the carrier in order to preload the bearings properly.
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these are your typical tapered bearings. im just trying to figure out if i should pull off the race and pound it in first or push the whole thing, bearing/race/seal in when tightening the axle down with the 4 retainer bolts.....hmmm

...if i should pull off the race and pound it in first or push the whole thing, bearing/race/seal in when tightening the axle down with the 4 retainer bolts...
You push it in, tighten the retainer bolts.
Some early flanged axle Dana44's came with Set 7 bearings -
Did IH use these on the pickups, or have you seen early flanged Scout axles this way also? Which side of the retainer plate is the adjuster on? Are there visual clues that an axle uses this setup, vs a trad. flanged...ie visible without any disassembly?

Thx......R:)

You push it in, tighten the retainer bolts.

Did IH use these on the pickups, or have you seen early flanged Scout axles this way also? Which side of the retainer plate is the adjuster on? Are there visual clues that an axle uses this setup, vs a trad. flanged...ie visible without any disassembly?

Thx......R:)

They came on pick-up trucks and Travelall's. Easy to tell as one of the retainer plates will not look normal then when you slide out an axle shaft you'll notice the bearings are pressed on backwards when compared to a set10. Never seen set7 bearings on a Scout 800 flanged axle 44 but I believe they were used on the earlier two piece axles.
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