Alwright guys I think I've figured out the answer. I want some other guys input on this first though.

I'm thinking of swapping out the front axle for one out of an 88 YJ. Then swap the whole drive train out of a ranger/bonco II/explorer... radiator, engine, auto transmission, transfer case, & rear end. The theory is that the 60* V6 will fit in without too much difficulty. Keeping the tranny/t-case together would eliminate any adapters, and the YJ axle would give me a driver's side pinion for the ford t-case. You can get about any gears for the YJ axle you want so I would match it to the rear axle.

I would be installing a spoa lift, and CJ springs in the back, stock rears up front, and a 3" body lift at the same time.

Has this been done???
Any problems I'm not foreseeing??
Am I on Crack?

the bw 1350 is too wide, it wont fit in the frame rails. The engine isnt narrow enough to set sideways to far either, so you'll need to cun it croocked in the engine bay to use the bw1350 case, inturn you wont have a drive angle in the rig that is square. That and it will hang down some, more then the stock case.

Sounds doable provided the Ford stuff is equivelant sized to Chevy stuff of the same class.
The 60* V-6 is a beautiful fit into a Zuk frame.Its just the right height,length and width,and its not too heavy.Regardless of what people may say about them,if you go late enough(86-87 and up),they are great engines.Just watch out for early,carbed examples,both Chevy and Ford.

My S10 2.8L swap has been awesome over the last couple years.It handles great,still gets almost 20MPG and has all the grunt Ill ever need.The stock T-5 was an easy fit,but I had to hybridize it a little to get a Dana300 and it's pass side drop,to work.Still,it all tucks up well and has proven to be well matched to the Sammies size,weight and handling.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v286/rentalguy/DSC01494.jpg

The BW1350 is to wide, i clocked it 60 degrees to get a passenger side drop, I had planned a full 80 degrees but the frame rail was in the way. Only took that route as it kept the drivetrain short wiht the TK4 for a gearbox. It was a boat anchor and got hung up on everything.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/2053000-2053999/2053662_49_full.jpg

Maybe theres a T-5 bellhousing that can be used on the Ford 60*?
T-5's are everywhere,used by nearly everyone.Im thinking maybe Mid 90's, base Mustang with the V-6?Or perhaps a later model Ranger,Explorer or the like....
If you can locate a T-5 bellhousing that fits,that will allow you to run a Jeep T-5 rear housing,and thus a Dana300,which can be run pass or flipped to run a driver's side drop.Plus,300's are just great TC's with lots of support.
Mine is well tucked without any clocking or other mods.My x-member is the only thing that sits low,and its only a little below the frame.....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v286/rentalguy/DSC01499.jpg

I'd like the 2.8 chevy's fit into the sammy, but I'd like to get something between the frame rails that will fit without swapping parts out of a bunch of different vehicles.

The Idea is to get a little stronger axles and a whole drop in drive train. Evidently the transfer case is the key for the width. I'd love to put the drive train out of an explorer in one but it looks like McDeere had a real problem with the t-case.

McDeere,
how does that t-case line up for a driver's side drop? Can I remeasure it three times and make it shrink?

Is there another stock 4wd set-up with t-case that'll fit between the rails?

1986 LWB. Ford 4.0 OHV, C5 automagic, homemade dual t-case using two BW1350s, full width HP Dana44 front, 9" rear.

That's the plan anyways. Here's where I'm at.

http://www.gno.edu.on.ca/Simon/Toughguy/toughguy/truck/Samurai/frameoff/IMG_7339.JPG

I've got a little more room than McDerry with the LWB and I'll be stretching it even further so I may end up turning the engine slightly to clear the frame. Because of the dual t-case setup I'm going to try and clock the rear one to be flat with the bottom of the frame. I want to avoid having to notch or modify the frame if at all possible.


Sean :cool2:

i run the ford 2.8 in zilla with a 5 spd all out of an 86 ranger 2wd used the stock samurai t-case no fit issues

Honestly, if you want ti quick and simple, find a C4 with a D20 on it. alot of the EB guys chuch this stuff for a np435. You can then use a C5 bellhousing or a C4 bellhousing to bolt the EB stuff up to the Cologne V6.

A RBV has 32 inches inbetween the frame rails,and the 1350 is tucked up into that to be relatively flat. Yes you could pick up a piece of 2x4 tube and weld that to the side of the frame rail and notch it. if you shaved the front output off the case it would make a good doubler.

My solution was grab a slush box and mount up the zuki case.

Honestly, if you want ti quick and simple, find a C4 with a D20 on it. alot of the EB guys chuch this stuff for a np435. You can then use a C5 bellhousing or a C4 bellhousing to bolt the EB stuff up to the Cologne V6.
He can only use the C5 bell to bolt up to the Cologne engines. (2.8, 2.9, 4.0) The C4 bell bolts up to Windsor V8 engines. Minor internal vavlebody and torque converter differences aside, the C4 and C5 are mechanicaly identical. The main difference is of course the tailhousing bolt pattern. The C5 bolts up to RBV t-cases (BW1350, 1354) while the C4 one bolts up to fullsize hardware.( D20, NP20x, BW 1345, 1356)

A RBV has 32 inches inbetween the frame rails,and the 1350 is tucked up into that to be relatively flat. Yes you could pick up a piece of 2x4 tube and weld that to the side of the frame rail and notch it. if you shaved the front output off the case it would make a good doubler.

My solution was grab a slush box and mount up the zuki case.

Yeah I'm not sure just how much room I have, or don't have:( , at this point but I can mod the frame if I have to. I'd just rather avoid it if possible.

I thought about using a 2wd C4 and keeping the Sammy t-case because of the many gearing options and the high range reduction but with 220ft-lbs at the crank and going through an automatic I just don't think it would hold up turning fat 35" Boggers. Even with a 2.8 it would seem marginal to me. Too bad because now I have to re-gear my axles and make custome t-case mounts, etc...


Sean :cool2:

Umm. pinto mustang II all had c4's and a 2.8L v6 available.

if hes going manual a TK bellhousing (external slave) with a 4.0L flywheel would open up alot of clutch disk options.

If your gonna do a doubler, Id just shave the bw1350 case down and mount the sammy case behind that. Build yourself a t case bucket and the zuki case should hold up well. the 2.8L produces the 150 ftlbs at 2600 so rpm. You dont reach peak hp till about 4600 rpm and even then its only 115 hp. The big hp mods to the 2.8L also bring the torque curve wya up without adding much torque at all. You can beef up a 2.8 to put out 200+ hp at 7500rpm and only be putting out 160 so foot lbs at 4600 rpm

Umm. pinto mustang II all had c4's and a 2.8L v6 available.
DOH! I though those were considered C5s. My bad. I've only been working with 4wd transmissions so that's my excuse.:shaking:



If your gonna do a doubler, Id just shave the bw1350 case down and mount the sammy case behind that. Build yourself a t case bucket and the zuki case should hold up well. the 2.8L produces the 150 ftlbs at 2600 so rpm. You dont reach peak hp till about 4600 rpm and even then its only 115 hp. The big hp mods to the 2.8L also bring the torque curve wya up without adding much torque at all. You can beef up a 2.8 to put out 200+ hp at 7500rpm and only be putting out 160 so foot lbs at 4600 rpm

That was my first option but after a discussion with my calculator, I didn't think the sammy case could handle that much torque. Keep in mind I'm going with the 4.0 with 220ft-lbs@2400RPM. Even a stock 2.8 (Bronco 2 version) has a max torque rating of about 150ft-lbs. Without taking into account the multiplication factor of the torque converter, that amount of torque multiplied through C5 (2.47:1 1st gear) and the BW1350's low range ratio (2.48:1) means the sammy case would see about 920ft-lbs on the input side! Now with my 4.0, 220*2.47*2.48=1348 ft-lbs!! Something would have broken for sure! The stock engine(1.3) had about 60ft-lbs so in first, the t-case would only see 60ft-lbs*3.65=219ft-lbs. Hell even a 1.6 Kick engine with OTT Kicker3 puts 94ft-lbs*3.65*1.82=624 ft-lbs of torque on the input of the sammy case and I've seen a few of them in pieces on the trail! Those machines also run 5.13:1 axle gears if using sammy axles or 5.29:1 if using built Toyota axles. My D44 and Ford 9" with 4.56 gears puts more resistance on the output side of the t-case and I was virtualy garanteed that the sammy case would just explode into a gazillion pieces! I don't think a super Mighty Kong mount would even make a difference at those torque levels.


Sean :cool2:

Thanks guys,

It looks like I'll just notch out the frame for the t-case to get it to lay flat. I don't have any problem with that at all. This is going to be one awesome build. I'll definately be having questions about the wiring later... but the end result will be awesome

your gonna need a piece of 2x4 tube in the 30 inch elngth as you'll need a big notch to clear it fully.