Yeah, I got issues. My truck's an '82 with 22R and 240,000 miles. I just put a weber carb on my truck, and now I got a milkshake brewing. White, puffy exhaust, not bad yet, but getting there, and slightly off-color (greenish-white) oil. It still runs and drives just fine, has good power (for what it is:D ) but I know the headgasket's gonna die. Here's my issue. I'm broke and in college, so I can't afford to do my V8 swap just yet, so I need this motor to last another year or two. So should I run it till it dies, then replace headgasket, or replace the HG now? And how much longer will it last as it is? I kinda need it to last until like September. Also, is there anything else I should replace (seals timing chain, etc.) while I'm in there? Any special headgasket I should get? Thanks guys.:usa:

replace it now that way you don't fu%^ anything else up. It would be more money to have to get a new head or even pistions. yes change the timing belt? chain which ever one you have better to do it when you have it apart.:beer: :usa: :smokin:

No brainer, fix it now before you have to do a total rebuild. I cannot believe you are even asking this if you know one damn thing about engines!!!:rasta:

Dont know enought about engines yet. Mine's had no issues up to this point, so I haven't had to do much work on it. That is all going to change soon.:beer:

Dude, anybody who fixes there own junk can tell you, fix it quick, and fix it right the first time. dont do stuff 1/2 assed, it isnt worth it, and DONT let that HD go too long, od youll have to buy at least a new head, or a motor... take it from a broke college student, it is worth spending the cash and fixing right the first time

Do it on your terms instead of waiting...then it will happen at the worst time, in the worst place and also be much more $$$.

For a budget, quicky job I'm not sure I would mess with your Timing chain...22r's had a dual roller chain that rarely gives problems, and taking the head off is probably not even half way into the timing chain job. Just the head gasket alone, with no valve/head work should be under a day and not much over the cost of the HG set. You haven't overheated it have you? just make sure the head isn't warped with a good staight edge. Good luck :flipoff2:

Up to this point, and even still, it runs just fine, doesn't overheat, doesn't smoke too bad, and the oil is still pretty thick. My main concern, though, is that since I'm at school I'm a 60 mile drive from my house and tools and a place to work on it. Are there any good write ups on this? I've already got me a Chilton manual. Looks like I'm gonna be going home soon.:usa:

Better drain the oil quick. Don't let that water hang around in there! :eek:

I don't really have an answer but for the rest of the "motor heads", honestly why fix it? It has 240,000 miles. By the time he fixes everything that could/would/should be wrong with it why not drop a crate motor or a known good junkyard one in that has less miles? In the long run I just think it would be easier for someone with his experience. Myself, I have done alot of things dealing with fab work and motor swaps etc. But there is a special know how needed to tear into a motor and have everything go smooth that I leave to people that have done it before. :D

Originally posted by MattS
I don't really have an answer but for the rest of the "motor heads", honestly why fix it?

I have a good answer for this: I have no money for a replacement motor, I am going V8 in a year or two and dont want to waste money on the 22R, and I need a driveable rig. This thing is my DD, and I cant afford to be without it. As for me having little/no motor experience, I have a buddy who does who will help me. As far as I know the only issue is the head gasket, I intend to leave the rest of the motor alone. Thanks guys.

What the hell on my post you say you are ready to wheel when I get to Oregon now you post saying your bomb is going to blow! What Up:rasta: :rasta: :smokin:

Just kidding hope you get it under control I'm looking forward to getting a group to wheel with up there.:beer:

Originally posted by The Joker
What the hell on my post you say you are ready to wheel when I get to Oregon now you post saying your bomb is going to blow! What Up:rasta: :rasta: :smokin:

Just kidding hope you get it under control I'm looking forward to getting a group to wheel with up there.:beer:

I'm hoping (knock on wood!) to be able to go home in 2 weeks and replace my headgasket....until then I'm not gonna drive it at all, it already looks like a friggin fog machine! Then it's off to TSF for me!!! I've been away too long.:usa:

Fork out the $25 for the head gasket from Shucks/Checker and put it in. I have done this in a half an hour before (AIR TOOLS!!!) and it is easy enough. if you are running a carburetor you can change the head gasket without removing the Intake or Exhaust manifolds.

If you have limited experience, then just break out the Chiltons and get to work, but make sure you have a vehicle for those unexpected trips to the autoparts store to get the stuff you forgot.

Make sure to check the timing chain guides when you have it apart. Keep you from having to go back in later.

DO NOT DRIVE IT UNTILL IT IS FIXED if you want to save the engine. Especially with those miles. water will destroy your bearings very quickly. As the water is leaves the oil galley in the crankshaft it depressurizes and rapidly turns to steam, acting like a little bomb and causing cavitation. :nuke: not to mention water's total lack of lubricity.

In my chilton's manual, it says to torque the head to 53-63 ft-lb. Yeah, so what do I want to torque it to??? I only want to do this once. Thanks.:usa:

From one college student to another- I feel your pain. I had to replace my 22r headgasket in January- no milkshake though- the HG broke between a water jacket and the cylinder- so I was pumping my coolant out of my exhaust....

If you don't have much engine experience, then you're lucky- you have a very easy engine to work on. Chilton's manual? Grrr.... Not my favorite, but I guess it'll work- I think the Haynes are more comprehensive, and layed out better- but for the 22-r, I have a little shop manual/book that I got from the dealership (like 10$) that is everything and more than you ever wanted to know about a 22r.

If you are opening it up, you might as well check the timing chain. 22r's have been known to have issues with the timing chain. I think the setup is pretty screwy, but I'm not the toyota engineer. There are plastic guides running vertically along the front face of the block- and if the guides break (check your oil for little plastic chunks), then the timing chain has slack, and can slop around in the timing cover. Timing chains can get so bad, that they wear a hole through the cover- also the timing chain slop isn't too good for engine timing. Hmm... From my own personal experience: if you take off the exhaust manifold when you do the HG, be sure to torque down the exhaust manifold BEFORE you torque down the HG. After years of high heat, the manifold bolt threads tend to strip easily... Argh. Had to take off the head to fix the threads...

Have you considered a tube of alumaseal and an oil change??? Just a thought- Anyways. That's about all I have right now- But I know what you're going through. Been there, done that. Not fun. If you've got any questions or whatever, just shoot me an email- zippypickle@hotmail.com Oh, and do some more homework- I would recommend searching the toyota forum for the word "milkshake"- there have been a few discussions, and some cool pics of malty looking shakes. Hah-

Best of luck- Brandon Zipp.

BTT Originally posted by the Millenium Falcon
In my chilton's manual, it says to torque the head to 53-63 ft-lb. Yeah, so what do I want to torque it to??? I only want to do this once. Thanks.:usa:

Anyone with an answer on this?

Finally got my new headgasket in and the truck put back together. It all works now, doesnt smoke, etc. Thanks to all of you who helped out.

Now that I have it back together, it has developed a valve tick. I know that these motors are notorious for this, but I want the Toyota god's oppinions. It's pretty constant and pretty loud, and it just started. And yes, it has oil :D . Thanks guys.:usa:

Mine is the same way after a head gasket repair. I'll piggy back on this thread as well.

Help us out!!

Just re adjust valves?

John

Originally posted by the Millenium Falcon
BTT

Anyone with an answer on this?

go for 60!~:flipoff2:

Originally posted by the Millenium Falcon
In my chilton's manual, it says to torque the head to 53-63 ft-lb. Yeah, so what do I want to torque it to??? I only want to do this once. Thanks.:usa:

Sure! Read it as: 58+/-5 lbs. It assusmes that your wrench will have some error, so if you set it for 58lbs, you should be assured you are in the acceptable 53-63ft lb range.

Thanks again for advice, but as I already said, the truck is back together and running. It has just developed a valve tick since I put it back together. I'm not concerned about this, because I know these trucks a notorious for that. My question is should I be worried about it?:usa: