here's the start of it, i put the caliper on top to keep it out of the rocks, since i run 2in spacer's they would be open target's and i'm not a fan of sheared brake lines...

i'm well aware the spindle's upside down, but that's the only way the bolt holes line up!, i'm going to notch the other side so it drain's when i get back from JV

Adapter bolted to tube, and spindle bolted to adapter

painting all the part's so they don't rust right away...

the hub is flush with the lug surface of the wheel with teh 2in spacers on there!

i'm going to paint the dial blue tomorrow, and put my new ring's on the wheels...

and the fully assembled rear shot...

That's the first one of thsoe I've seen, hope that it holds up and is worth the $$$$$$$$

don't paint the hubs blue for god's sake!!!

Originally posted by Wilson
That's the first one of thsoe I've seen, hope that it holds up and is worth the $$$$$$$$


adapte'rs are 1in thick CNC's steel, all stock front outer's, and moser 4140 shaft's... i think the weak link will be the toy hubs...

Originally posted by BigNasty
don't paint the hubs blue for god's sake!!!

Are you thinking what I am too, totaly :rainbow: :rainbow: :rainbow: :rainbow: :rainbow: :rainbow: :rainbow: on the blue hubs :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by crash


Are you thinking what I am too, totaly :rainbow: :rainbow: :rainbow: :rainbow: :rainbow: :rainbow: :rainbow: on the blue hubs :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:


don't even go there widdle man....

last time i checked you had loom and zip ties that matched your accent color's... so don't EVEN start fawker!

speaking of which, after 4 weeks, my wire ties just came, go figure, huh.....

Go there, too late, went, came back, and went again :flipoff2:

blue hubs:rainbow:

Originally posted by DSI



adapte'rs are 1in thick CNC's steel, all stock front outer's, and moser 4140 shaft's... i think the weak link will be the toy hubs...

The hubs are what I was referring to. Sorry but I have to agree blue hubs are very:rainbow:

why the full floater kit?

Must be nice to not have a job and work on your rig all day :flipoff2: Looks nice!

Me likey!:D Is that the Front Range kit? And how much are the axles?

Originally posted by 85TrailToy
Me likey!:D Is that the Front Range kit? And how much are the axles?
Read this thread it'll tell you everything about it (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=44588) :D

Originally posted by Bones

Read this thread it'll tell you everything about it (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=44588) :D

Funny, but he never does say where the adapters came from. Only that there 'are only 10 sets on Earth'.

Originally posted by 85TrailToy


Funny, but he never does say where the adapters came from. Only that there 'are only 10 sets on Earth'.



ya, ya notice i left that part out?? ;)

What was the reason for doing this conversion? I mean were you breaking stock shafts or what? I haven't heard on it happening much, that why I think the FF kit is not really for me. Plus it's pretty pricey as well.

Originally posted by Bones
What was the reason for doing this conversion? I mean were you breaking stock shafts or what? I haven't heard on it happening much, that why I think the FF kit is not really for me. Plus it's pretty pricey as well.


well then don't buy one... pretty simple as i see it?

i've broken 6 rear axles now...

and with 38's and 2in wheel spacer's that's alot of force on the SF bearing, i don't feel like losing another any time soon...

Looks nice but what protects the ROTORS!:D

Originally posted by toyboy2494
Looks nice but what protects the ROTORS!:D

nothing unfortunatly, had i not been running wheel spacer's they'd be inside whe wheel safe...

now your just gonna break hubs :flipoff2:

if your gonna paint your stuff all pretty like at least use an assortment of the proper colors :rainbow: :D

Originally posted by camo
now your just gonna break hubs :flipoff2:

if your gonna paint your stuff all pretty like at least use an assortment of the proper colors :rainbow: :D


:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

bling bling!

:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Actually the stock hubs are VERY strong, so I doubt you'll have problems. Ive had ZERO failure with 40's, and Ive not heard from any of our customers having hub failures. Besides, if you do, go buy some driveplates.

but why go full floater instead of just upgrading the shafts?

Originally posted by poppycock
but why go full floater instead of just upgrading the shafts?


after havign worked in tehaxle industry on and off for about a yr i've seen WAY to many hardened rear SF axles break at the flange, rahter than pop @ teh splines (where you can at least drive out) and the shaft's for this cost me the same amount and i got a safe gain in strength

Originally posted by poppycock
but why go full floater instead of just upgrading the shafts?

Also, when that bearing goes, you loose everything. Axle shaft, tire, drum and all go shooting out, all at once! And here's question for you! Why upgrade shafts when you can go FF and disks for less than the cost of 2 seperate kits!

i have a 9 inch ford i put toyota spindles hubs rotors etc. on over 10 years ago and i have broken factory hubs twice --the problem comes if you are using a detroit in the rear ,when the hub goes it tears up the side gear in the detroit --so i now run the drive flanges and haven't had any problem. The ff lets you flat tow, lets you disengage a wheel if you are sliding down to one side or the other especially on wet clay and running a locker just unlock the down hill wheel and drive through, you also now have the same wheel brgs front and rear along with rotors calipers and pads so mount a spindle assy to your tire rack and you have all the spares you need for any wheel, oh yeah it's cool looking too

well it's all installed and the truck's 100% ready for the hammerz...

and i'm positive i'm going to the FJ80 flanges when i get back... the hub's have to much slop in them!

Blue=:rainbow: just on your rig :flipoff2:

funny you should mention painting your hubs blue... my neighbor (he is 16 years old) got a toyota truck this year because he was so impressed with the ones my friends and I drive. He is in highschool, and all his friends drive those little CRXs. they all have lime green brake drums & calipers. he came over with brand new BLUE shock boots and BLUE hub dials one day...

I told him They were :rainbow: and to get off my property and not to ever come over again unless he had cleaned the blue paint off.

The next day he showed up with RED hub dials.

It's YOUR rig and YOUR paint, but now you know MY opinion.

can you adapt IFS rotors & calipers for added brake cooling/power?

Originally posted by CWToyota
can you adapt IFS rotors & calipers for added brake cooling/power?


well, no one asked for your opinion to start with... but thanks for offering it unsolicitedly....


IFS rotor's won't work, you'd need FJ40/60/62 rotor's, yea it would work, but why?

So DSI, whatcha doing for brakes? Are you using Vented FJ rotors and IFS calipers on this, like the front disc conversion does?

Originally posted by Dr. Evil
So DSI, whatcha doing for brakes? Are you using Vented FJ rotors and IFS calipers on this, like the front disc conversion does?
Look like stock solid axle rotors and calipers to me :confused: I think it's mentioned above :flipoff2:

Yeah. They look quite non-vented to me, too. :emb3:

Originally posted by CWToyota
can you adapt IFS rotors & calipers for added brake cooling/power?

You can use the IFS hubs (not lockout) and wheel bearing and mount the rotor and caliper on the other side of their mounting flanges. This nets you about a 1" wheel spacer. No custom parts needed.:D

I think when I build mine (thanks for the idea Randy) I'll build them around a IFS hub and rotor and rotate the caliper mount to the back side similar to the front, and make a pilot that takes the place of the bearing as part of the adapter and be able to seal it there. Also rotate the bolt pattern for the spindle so it's DOWN

As far as mounting the caliper to the other side, it wont work. Couple things:
1. The IFS hubs will add almost 3"
2. The rotor is 1/2" smaller in diamter than solid axle/fj rotors, so the caliper needs new mounts
3. The IFS rotor has a bid enough backspacing that when all assembled the caliper would need to be inline with the mounting tabs.