Help a newbie out! You can cuss me out after. :D

I've been reading my ass off, but first things first. I need to buy a Sammy. I got the fever and I'm sick of having my DD be my toy. So, to keep this simple, I need help with what to start with. I haven't found a good source for what came with various model years that is desirable other than fuel injection in the 90's.

I think I can handle figuring out what mods I might consider desirable enough to buy up front, but the main point of my post is I want to make sure I have the right base to start with.

This will not be a DD, but for now I would like it to be able to run me around town safely. Assume a little of everything for the type of wheeling.

I don't understand the wheelbase thing. Were some longer from the factory? I gather LWB is a good thing?

In in Houston any Zuki experts in the TX area out there who might want to help me check out prospects for a :beer: ???

Hey Shrock,

There isn't a "bad" year for Sammy's. There were hardly any changes, the biggest of which was the switch to fuel injection in 1990. The carbureted Samurai's are not bad though, so basically you just want to look for one in good shape or a good price or already modded or whatever it is exactly that matches your priorities.

Although Suzuki made (and still makes) long wheelbase Samurai's, they were not ever made available in the US. If you wanted a LWB, your best bet would be to find one in Canada or build a custom LWB setup. If you plan to go totally extreme, then it wouldn't be worth your while to get a factory-built LWB.

A longer wheelbase is sometimes a good thing. Like everything, it has its plusses and minuses. The stock wheelbase is 79.9 inches, which helps to make the Samurai just about the most maneuverable 4x4 ever made. A longer wheelbase helps on steep hillclimbs, but hurts your breakover angle and maneuverability.

My SWB Hardtop Samurai has about an 83 inch wheelbase. There have been times when I would've liked to have a little extra wheelbase, but for the most part I like it just the way it is. If you want a long wheelbase, get a Suburban.

Zuki, your old tires and wheels still for sale? on a different note fellow newbie.. this is my one word of advice.. buy the 1st samurai that you come across! chances are it will be a great car for you, your going to have to rebuild everything in it sooner or later, so why not make it sooner.. when you know the rig you'll be able to do trail fixes quicker:flipoff2:

but in all seriousness, find the cheapest rig that runs the best.. there isnt anything more simple than that


"Canby, from the consolate right?!! this is WEEEIIRD"
-- Ace Ventura:D

hardtops had longer wheelbases? :confused: i call bullshit newbie! :flipoff2: i got a hardtop and was 79"ish.

Sorry, I wasn't clear with my post. The hardtops had the same wheelbase as the softtops, but with my YJ shackle reversal, I'm up at 83 inches now. Sorry 'bout the confusion! Too many :beer: s

lol now i'm tracking. mines right about 100" now and the hardtop is on the floor :D

Originally posted by Shrock
I haven't found a good source for what came with various model years that is desirable other than fuel injection in the 90's.

That is the most signifigant difference in the models.



I don't understand the wheelbase thing. Were some longer from the factory? I gather LWB is a good thing?

Long Wheelbase Samurai's were only available in Canada for N. America. And if ya aren't familiar with w.b. differences, ya ain't been wheelin' yet ;)

In in Houston any Zuki experts in the TX area out there who might want to help me check out prospects for a :beer: ???

My man JC lives in Houston - look him up:
Creek.Garrett@Williams.com


Originally posted by Shrock
Help a newbie out! You can cuss me out after. :D

Welcome Newbie :flipoff2: :D :flipoff2:

ok now that you've been helped, i will begin the #&#@%*&#!
:evil:







.........:flipoff2: just kiddin'.

Re: differences in model year changes..... i would research more before just grabbing "any" Suzuki. (note i said Suzuki, not Samurai)
for the beginners that don't know, the early year SJ410 models were technically not called Samurai's and can be a source of frustration if you were to buy a "Samurai" from someone, then tried to get say.... a replacement stock axle for a 1984 model year, and got one from a 1992 model instead. they would not interchange.
there ARE big/little differences all over the place really, if you study them for a while prior to purchase.
but, it's true that there isn't a "bad" year, and some of the earlier ones actually have MORE desirable things like the '84 model mentioned above which has a nifty, coveted transfer case with lower gearing (or at least the beginnings OF a more desirable low-ish gear set)
have fun fun fun :D

I got a boulevard sami down towards Galveston if you wanna ride in one. Picking my brain won't take too long but is a good enough reason to :beer: & talk sami.

Thank for the help guys. I'm studying like mad. Up until about 3AM last night. Feeling :rasta: at work but who cares right?

I'm leaning towards a fairly stock unit. For initial cost reasons and also one of my goals is to increase my wrenching skills. My dad isn't a TV repairman but I have a "bitchin' set of tools" aside from automotive specialty ones. A Zuki seem like the perfect ride to learn as you go.

Thoughts on this? I know you cant make a call on the truthfulness of the statements, but how about the price and what would it take to fix a valve...assuming it is only a valve and I'm not sure how to verify that?

'91 great body and paint, no rust at all. herculined tub. all stock but has a burnt valve on #3. runs and drives, great paint, cracked windsheild,torn seat, 119k on it. has a set of 15x8 chrome mod wheels. 1300.00 this is worth the money.

I also spied this that looks interesting:

swift motor has 12000 miles on it runs good. i was going to do the converstion (just not enough money.asking $400.00 OBO .

The 84 has 1/2 of a 4.16 tcase, most likely a 1 liter 3 banger, and the axles are a little narrower than a 413... Just get any samurai, and you'll be fine. The other differences are minor, and entirely up to you as the the $ vs coolness factor...IE EFI, wheels, steering wheel, dash vents, sway bar inside or outside front spring mounts...I personally would not buy a sammy for $1300 that needs a new valve... Talk him down to $800 and you'd be :smokin:

I have a Suzzy for sale in Utah (86), $2000. Cant beat the price, its listed in the For Sale section, or you can E-mail and I'll send you the info. Might seem steep compared to a $1300 one, but all mine needs is a SPOA and your ready to go. Allready on 31's, Weber Carb, etc etc etc... Convertible with Hardtop, softop, tonneau cover, etc etc etc....


-Karl

Originally posted by Gozuki
The 84 has 1/2 of a 4.16 tcase, most likely a 1 liter 3 banger, and the axles are a little narrower than a 413...

Sorry man...
The 1.0-liter engine in the SJ410 was a 4-cylinder. It was a larger version of the 800cc 4-cylinder in the LJ80, completely different than the 1.0-liter 3-cylinder in the Metro XFI.

Talk him down to $800 and you'd be :smokin:

That's what I was thinking and the kinda feedback I was looking for. Thanks!


Honey I bought a new truck.

What! *&^*&^%()*&^%%%$%$!$& ????

But it only cost $800.

Ohhh....OK.

No need to tell her what's yet to come. :D

About the $2k rig forsale. Send me some pics and info. email is in my profile.

I bought my non rusted 87 (in NH no less) for 1300, and it already had a shackle lift on it. Not to mention it was hideously unabused. That last point has since been fixed :D

A buddy burnt a valve on his sammi, it cost him about $150 for the gaskets, and a reman'd head will run about $200 (I think) There is a head that will interchange that has bigger valve and is more desireable (cant remember name right now) but runs the same price as a valve job, or reman'd head As for the asking price, I would definatley talk him down a few hunderd bux.

When you are test driving a sammi, dont expect gobs and gobs of power (or any for that matter) and dont ask why my buddies sammi is named "Snorelax" :rolleyes:

I think F.I. is the better way to go on these, ever price out a reman'd carb??? YUK!


P.S. Good luck on your quest

Depending on what part of the country you are from your priorites on condition change. I live up here in the RUST BELT. I waited about a year to find my Samurai. I just couldn't find one that wasn't rotted to the bejesus. I finally did and paid $1300 for it, 100% stock 87 JX, with not real rust, came from a woman that drove it out here from Calif when she moved here, then realized it was too cold for her to drive when the temps hit 10 degrees. Personally I'd prefer to put in a motor (already done 1.6L 8v EFI) than have to do body work!

i have the one for 1300 here in texas, but it is spoken for. a guy is driving down from nebraska to pick it up saturday. it has a great body with no rust. he is wanting more of a restored zuk than a trail rig. this one has the best bodies i have come across. i have had about 8 and this one is the best, least molested i have found. i find that they run from 100 to 5000k in my area. but the guy that is buying this one. is doing it to not have to mess with the body work on his 91 that he has now with rust. i can find them in good running shape for 1500 to 2k [carbed]in the dfw range, but they are a lot harded to find then 3 years ago. don't be afraid of the carbed one's they off road just fine. mike

Dammit!

Let me know if it falls through or if you run across anything interesting.

Jim

Got Mail Shrock

FJ, I'll check my mail after I post this.

What do you guys think this is worth. I think it is way high, but looks like a good starting base.


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