I found some hex shaft, looks like it is around 1 1/4 " or so, and was thinkin, what if I were to make an external hex bushing that was the same ID as my driveshaft tube, weld it into a shortened tube, then use the yoke off of a solid type shaft (CJ front )welded to the hex. Any problems w/ this idea other than that the length of hex that is inside the tube would wobble abit (depending on the length of the internal hex buhing) I am thinking it might handle street use abit better than the box tube design ? whattya think?

You can probably buy all this stuff from a shop that does PTO installs. They like to use the hex shafting, because you don't have to cut a keyway into like with the round shafting.

1 1/8 is available and the sleeve too - or you can even go profiler ag stuff - Jess

Good deal, the sleeve would be alot easier than cutting the internal. This should work for me till i get the setup how I want it, then, when I get some $$ I can buy da real shiat!!! Do you think any heat treating would be in order to make it hold up wear wise, or jus grease the hell outa it?? Also I know a guy who runs tractor PTO shafts on a jeep, they are kinda weak, but with the setup he has, you can QD the whole shaft, Kinda cool. A version w/ larger u joints and a beefier shaft would be a kickass setup.
Thanks

one problem the sleeve offered for this is cast iron and you would have to weld to it -sucks! Jess

Aw shit, I guess I'll either have to buy some NIrod, or end up makin the sleeve, no big deal though, I need to get some practice w/ weldin Cast iron anyways, never done it before. The only downside on me millin the internal hex is that the smallest EM I can get that is long enough, is .250, and that might not give me enough strength? Oh well, gotta give it a try anyways. anyone got any better ideas for cuttin the hex than millin it out?
Thanks

Internal Hex:

Buy a deep impact socket of correct size. (HF has 'em cheap). You should be able to weld, silver solder, whatever, to that. If it is not long enough, cut off the drive end with chop saw, and weld it into a tube or bushing, whatever.

Anneal it if you need to do any machining on it. Heat 'till magnet won't stick, then bury it in dry sand untill cool. May have to do this a couple of times to get it fully annealed. Or you can probably machine it with carbide tooling...Impact sockets are not real hard.

Impact socket will be 6 pt. and thicker wall than non. Also will not have chrome plating to be removed before welding.

OnetonCV, You are in the business and all...but you sure those aren't forged rather than cast?

Damn, good Idea, I never even though of using a socket (seems really obvious now that someone points it out to me, isnt that always the way w/ shit!!!!) I think a deep impact socket would be plenty strong, maybe abit op pipe on the far end to guide the hex.
thanks for all the good ideas
Dan Hinckley

whats wrong with square? mine's seen 50mph and i haven't dented it yet. nice and simple................:D

Originally posted by FULLSIZE
whats wrong with square? mine's seen 50mph and i haven't dented it yet. nice and simple................:D

i agree. not good for the rear if you run on the road but good for a front and spares. i love mine. cheap, easy to make, and BEEFY :D