Tonight while I was driving around I noticed popping sound coming from my LR axle when accelerating. It's almost like the axel is spinning around in the carrier.

It's a Dana 35 diff with factory axles and an ARB locker. (I know, I know, I'm dreaming of a 60, but ya gotta have $$ for that!)

Any suggestions on what it could be?

I tried the search button and couldn't find anything...

Hey neighbor,

I'm not sure what's wrong with your diff. It doesn't sound good though. My best advice would be to jack it up and start investigating. Too bad I have to work every g'damn day for the next two weeks. I'd offer to help you out.

RR3

No problem RR3!

I'll prolly pull the diff cover this weekend and check to see if my axles are still in one piece.

Looks like I stumped the experts in the Jeep forum! :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Tx4x4Fun

Looks like I stumped the experts in the Jeep forum! :flipoff2:

Sure did!

1. Still trying to figure out why you would spend the money on a ARB for a D35 :confused: :flipoff2: :confused: :flipoff2: :rolleyes:

2. You said you want a 60 but you gotta have $$$ for that. See number 1.


Still confused

:confused: :D :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Some noises are hard enough to diagnose when you're in the vehicle much less over the internet.

If the problem is serious, I wouldn't put any more money into that axle. Sell the ARB and get an 8.8. If you need help installing it, I can help.

RR3

Originally posted by RR3
Some noises are hard enough to diagnose when you're in the vehicle much less over the internet.

If the problem is serious, I wouldn't put any more money into that axle. Sell the ARB and get an 8.8. If you need help installing it, I can help.

RR3


GREAT ADVICE! That sounds like what I would do.

1. Still trying to figure out why you would spend the money on a ARB for a D35 :confused: :flipoff2: :confused: :flipoff2: :rolleyes:


It was in the Jeep when I bought it... Even worse is the ARB in the front Dana 30! :rolleyes:

Still daydreaming of the 60's though! (http://www.rockcrawler.com/features/newsshorts/02march/dynatrac_prorock60.asp)

I would take the ARB'ed 30 before having one in a 35. Front 30 isnt that bad of a front end for most people. The 35 doesnt live with street use. Garbage! Get the 8.8. Take the 35, fix whatever it needs and sell it on www.jeepsunlimited.com for some cash.

Hmmmm, here's a potentially stupid question....

Can you buy an 8.8 that's ready to bolt in? Or does it involve junkyard surfing and a welder?

Are there any websites for 8.8's?

Originally posted by Tx4x4Fun
Hmmmm, here's a potentially stupid question....



Yes it is :flipoff2: Do a search in this forumnd you should come up with all the info you need on 8.8's.

Hey Tx4x4Fun,

Some 8.8's found in Explorers come stock with 4.10's. One of the guys in our club knows where to get 8.8's for $350. They usually run around $450 in our area.

I checked your web site. Looks like we wheel with a lot of the same people.

RR3

Originally posted by Tx4x4Fun
Tonight while I was driving around I noticed popping sound coming from my LR axle when accelerating. It's almost like the axel is spinning around in the carrier.

It's a Dana 35 diff with factory axles and an ARB locker. (I know, I know, I'm dreaming of a 60, but ya gotta have $$ for that!)

Any suggestions on what it could be?

I tried the search button and couldn't find anything...


Hi Tx4x4Fun,

Don't you just love it when the forum known for such a high level of technical knowledge can't comprehend a simple question?

Or is it that the technical knowledge of some is a lot more limited then anyone would like to admit?

Perhaps all the knowledge of what makes for a better set-up then the one you have should just automagically make the popping in your differential disappear!

Heck take it to the implied conclusion; you don't really have a popping noise at all in your D-35, because you shouldn't have a D-35 at all !! How silly of me!

Anyway, "pick one" of the above.

I am sure you will find any to be just as helpful as most of the incredibly knowledgeable responses you received to your request for help.


That said, I will try to give you a few things you might want to look for.

Pick up a can of brake cleaning fluid. (Wal-mart $1.69)

Pop the differential cover, drain the oil and clean the differential out good with the brake cleaner and some compressed air if you have it.

Take a good look at the ARB Carrier End Cap Bolts. They have been known to come loose (Even on ARB's in D-60's).

Also look at your ring gear bolts.

They can come loose and give you a popping noise, particularly when going around a corner and experiencing the differential effect and during acceleration. (This can happen on a D-60 too! Wow Amazing!! Did anyone else every hear of this or it just an epiphany I alone am blessed to receive?)

If you find any of these bolts "loose" DO NOT Simply re-torque them.

Take each bolt out, one at a time and flush the bolt holes and bolts with brake cleaning solution.

Then blow out with compressed air to dry.

Once dry coat each bolt with Red High Strength Loctite and torque it down "once".

Never, ever re-torque a bolt that you have used High Strength Loctite on as you will break the sheer seal and it will not hold. (Even on a D-60 this can and does happen! Double WOW Imagine that !! Golly Geese Shucks!! )

If you find any of the bolts actually missing, on the carrier or the ring gear look for them, but there is no guarantee they will still be there.

I have seen them get chewed up and pulverize by the ring and pinion. (Yup I can't resist, you know what I am going to say, Even on a D-60!!!; a loose bolt can fall out and get chewed up and pulverized by the ring and pinion!!!! )

Anyway, if that is the case, I would pull the carrier, and check it out completely along with a good look at that ring and pinion gear. I would also flush both axle tubes (with brake cleaning solution) to make sure you get all the pulverized metal out.

There is also the possibility the outer axle bearings can be bad as will, but far less likely.

My guess is the ARB Carrier End Cap Bolts are loose. Or the ring gear bolts are loose or one or two have come out.

Hope it is this simple for you, and I hope this was helpful.

Let us know how it turns out for you. You never know.

I mean your problem just might very well be a problem that everyone else can have their D-60!!! And if that is the case nearly 100 percent of the folks on this board would benefit from your D-35 knowledge and experience!!!


Frank

Touche, Frank

:laughing:

RR3

Hey Frank!

Thanks so much for the in depth technical support that I was looking for! I will definitely let you know what I find wrong with the rear diff...

Last night I got with a few of my buddies and we attempted to diagnose the problem. One thing that we noticed is that my rear ARB is engaged, and it WON'T disengage.

So this leads me to wonder... Will an ARB, that is ENGAGED, pop and knock (similar to a Detroit) on pavement while turning?

When I originally heard the popping, it didn't feel like the locker was engaged (ie. no tire squeal). So I've been wondering if when I engaged the locker to see if the popping stops, that it didn't get stuck. :confused:

I took it out for some minor off-roading in the dark last night and it performs flawlessy. I confirmed that the ARB is locked by backing up an off-camber embankment. Once back on the road, it was back to it's usual antics. Sqealing tires and shaky driving... (except when going straight)

The next step is to pop the cover and take a look-see and take it from there.

Thanks again Frank!

Ray

dude you just answered your own question, obviously the main problem is your driving around with a spooled rear end!

Originally posted by Daless2



Hi Tx4x4Fun,

Don't you just love it when the forum known for such a high level of technical knowledge can't comprehend a simple question?

Or is it that the technical knowledge of some is a lot more limited then anyone would like to admit?

Perhaps all the knowledge of what makes for a better set-up then the one you have should just automagically make the popping in your differential disappear!

Heck take it to the implied conclusion; you don't really have a popping noise at all in your D-35, because you shouldn't have a D-35 at all !! How silly of me!

Anyway, "pick one" of the above.

I am sure you will find any to be just as helpful as most of the incredibly knowledgeable responses you received to your request for help.


That said, I will try to give you a few things you might want to look for.

Pick up a can of brake cleaning fluid. (Wal-mart $1.69)

Pop the differential cover, drain the oil and clean the differential out good with the brake cleaner and some compressed air if you have it.

Take a good look at the ARB Carrier End Cap Bolts. They have been known to come loose (Even on ARB's in D-60's).

Also look at your ring gear bolts.

They can come loose and give you a popping noise, particularly when going around a corner and experiencing the differential effect and during acceleration. (This can happen on a D-60 too! Wow Amazing!! Did anyone else every hear of this or it just an epiphany I alone am blessed to receive?)

If you find any of these bolts "loose" DO NOT Simply re-torque them.

Take each bolt out, one at a time and flush the bolt holes and bolts with brake cleaning solution.

Then blow out with compressed air to dry.

Once dry coat each bolt with Red High Strength Loctite and torque it down "once".

Never, ever re-torque a bolt that you have used High Strength Loctite on as you will break the sheer seal and it will not hold. (Even on a D-60 this can and does happen! Double WOW Imagine that !! Golly Geese Shucks!! )

If you find any of the bolts actually missing, on the carrier or the ring gear look for them, but there is no guarantee they will still be there.

I have seen them get chewed up and pulverize by the ring and pinion. (Yup I can't resist, you know what I am going to say, Even on a D-60!!!; a loose bolt can fall out and get chewed up and pulverized by the ring and pinion!!!! )

Anyway, if that is the case, I would pull the carrier, and check it out completely along with a good look at that ring and pinion gear. I would also flush both axle tubes (with brake cleaning solution) to make sure you get all the pulverized metal out.

There is also the possibility the outer axle bearings can be bad as will, but far less likely.

My guess is the ARB Carrier End Cap Bolts are loose. Or the ring gear bolts are loose or one or two have come out.

Hope it is this simple for you, and I hope this was helpful.

Let us know how it turns out for you. You never know.

I mean your problem just might very well be a problem that everyone else can have their D-60!!! And if that is the case nearly 100 percent of the folks on this board would benefit from your D-35 knowledge and experience!!!



Frank
Wow......thanks frank that was entertaining and informative...Oh and because your a newbie :flipoff2:
Welcome to P.O.R.

Mine did that.

A carrier bearing went bad causing the R&P to skip teeth when cornering or accelerating.

POS D35

Originally posted by wedge
Mine did that.

A carrier bearing went bad causing the R&P to skip teeth when cornering or accelerating.

POS D35

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll be sure to look at that as an option too...

Well, as it turns out, I grenaded the rear ARB :nuke: . Rather than pour more money into another ARB, I'm gonna go a cheaper route and put in a Detroit.

...and here I was thinking that the D35 was weak! It's that cheap-ol' ARB that gave up the ghost! :p

I know, I know... "put in a 60, put in an 8.8, put in a 44" the fact of the matter is that I wanna go wheelin'. I'll turn wrenches later...

Thanks to all that offered their help and opinions! :flipoff2:

Ray

Any ideas on why the ARB failed?

RR3

Not yet. I should know something after today. I was told that ARB's are weak and that they get trashed all the time. That's one of the reasons I decided to go with the Detroit.

I thought that the D35 would die before my ARB did. Oh well, wheel and learn right?

Originally posted by Tx4x4Fun
Not yet. I should know something after today. I was told that ARB's are weak and that they get trashed all the time. That's one of the reasons I decided to go with the Detroit.

I thought that the D35 would die before my ARB did. Oh well, wheel and learn right?

Make sure you get a couple extra axle shafts when you install the Detroit. When the Detroit decides to "load-up", it seems to make the D35 shafts go :nuke: :nuke: :nuke: . Oh........ and then sometimes you get to buy another Detroit too! :flipoff2:

Enjoy!

Originally posted by Outlaw99TJ


Make sure you get a couple extra axle shafts when you install the Detroit. When the Detroit decides to "load-up", it seems to make the D35 shafts go :nuke: :nuke: :nuke: . Oh........ and then sometimes you get to buy another Detroit too! :flipoff2:

Enjoy!

Ok, I'm gonna show my ignorance here, but what do you mean by "load-up"?

Is there anything that can be done to prevent "load-up"? :confused:

Thanks!
Ray

That detroit is like a spool until it unlocks (un-load) then you get the bang. The axles in the 35 dont do very well with that bang! If an axle lets go during one of these bangs it can take out the detroit also. Doesnt matter ARB or Detroit it is still a 35. It is gonna break. The ARB is nicer because it is an open diff when unlocked. If you cant swap out that rear end I would at least repair the ARB and continue to run that.

Before I put my 60 in I grenaded the ARB in my 35. The older ARB's blew easier than the new ones for the 35. Either way it's probably time to think about a rear that is more bullet proof or buy axles for your detroit 35... How many more times do you want to work on it?

Paul

alrighty then, it looks like the gear in the red circle is what crapped out on me.

http://www.blackhummer.com/jeep/grafx/arb-ex.gif

The guy that did the work for me noted that I don't have stock D35 axles. He didn't know which kind they were, but they are beefier than the stock sxles. He said that they do not have the c-clips...

Now it's time to go out and put the detroit to work! :D

Some of the earlier model YJ's and XJ D35's came stock with non-c-clip axles. The c-clips don't make the the axle weaker. It's the axle itself that is not up to snuff. The c-clip design just allows the wheel and tire to come off the vehicle when the axle breaks.

Although it might take longer and cost more to replace the axle now. I think it will be worth it in the long run. Not only in terms of cost and time, but in your peace of mind as well.

RR3