So here is my problem. I have my 77 bronco, and I just got Full Width 78 axles under it. RC44 front and 31 sp 9" rear. I was supposed to get them with all the steering set up, but they did nto come that way. I guess I can go get the tie rod and drag link off a stock setup, but I want to know if there is a better way to go about it. Is high steer better for my use, or do I want that funky cross setup?

DImitri

Go tie-rod over with either BC Broncos setup - or HD with Rockstomper or Quinn's setup.

depending on cash flow iv'e got performance unlimited's
rock proof tie rod ended tie rod n drag link i love em.
custom lenth's.
also try cambellent.com these guy's are also realy helpful

I ment "ROD" ended, tie rod and drag link

full hydro?

This is for a daily driver so Full hydro is out of the question. Keep the ideas coming.

Dimitri

Just do the Chevy tie rod ends on top of the knuckles. Find someone witht the 7/8 18 taps and use some thick tube, or just use the fulsize chevy tie rod. also I don't know what you did for a panhard bar to axle bracket but if you used the stock EB one you will need to shorten up that bolt and castle nut so it clears. Using flat top knuckles and steering arms doesn't work on EB's unless you lower the bumpstops quite a bit, the steering on top of the stock steering arm is the best way to go in my opinion. I would check out the EB knuckles compared to the F150 knuckles because I think the steering arm on teh EB knuckles is a little bit higher.

OK, here is my idea. I am gonna build my own Tie rod and drag link. I can build a whole truck, I think I can build this as well. I am gonna run some F350 rod ends, and then the drag link will come into the end of the tie rod in the little eye loop. Basically do it like the TJ is done, just WAY beefier. I can build the tie rod out of some STOUT material, and that should not break. I can't afford the expensive kits rigt now, so I figure this is the cheap way to do it.
What do you guys think?

Dimitri

EB knuckles, BC Bronco tie rod flip kit with tie rod and drag link made to your deminsions. This is cheap and easy. Then there is the trac bar setup to deal with. Hmmm? My $.02.

The trac bar mount shoudl have been moved to match the EB mount, if not, I can make the trac bar longer, that is easy as pie. The trac bar only locates the axle, so making it longer woulddo me no damage. As for the flip kit, I think the F150 setup is already on top. If not, I can always taper the top of the knuckle to fit the bigger tie rod end of the F350. If I am not mistaken, it is quite a bit larger.

Dimitir

the F350 sounds almost like the chevy conversion
I know the chevy is easier,
Just get tubes, i think Seregi had the taps and stuff your can *barrow* then get tie rods an be done with it

Or Quinn can sell you some pre tapped tubes for like 80-100 bucks, then you can use my reamer and put them on top.

D,

I got Quinns setup with Ch*vy heavy duty ends on it. I reamed the knucle from the top and it's sweet! I think it was like $220 delivered. He makes them out of DOM that is threaded (not welded ends).

-Jack

What year were the GM TRE out of? I want to run the Chevy ones if they are that sinple to do. I can get a reamer somehwere, and the rod ends got to be fairly inexpensive. I just need to know a year to get. Also are these ends Moog ends or jsut plain old Kragen specials?

Dimtiri

D, I don't recall the specs off the top of my head. He got them @ the dealership though and they are for Blazers. He is on Broncofix and/or EBML. Quinn Dussenbury (sp?). I'm sure he'd be more than happy to give you the specs. The nice thing about the new ends other than being much much larger than the EB's is they flex out a ton (like 2x that of the EB).

-Jack

can't remember application - but here's the part numbers
ES2234R and ES2010L (chevy rod ends for tie rod)

stolen from quinn


My pics:
http://web3.foxinternet.net/venom9/scoutknuckle.html

Pete Wagner's pics:
http://people.we.mediaone.net/petew1/graphics/tierod1.jpg
http://people.we.mediaone.net/petew1/graphics/tierod2.jpg
http://people.we.mediaone.net/petew1/graphics/tierod3.jpg

Coby's pics:
http://www.vintagebronco.com/coby/tierod/

Great pics from a guy using this setup on a Jeep Commanche pickup:
http://www.bc4x4.com/ryeguy/truck/detail_1.jpg shows tie rod height w/Scout knuckles
http://www.bc4x4.com/ryeguy/truck/detail_2.jpg
http://www.bc4x4.com/ryeguy/truck/detail_3.jpg

1) 1.250 OD x 0.812 ID DOM for the tie rod (tap directly into 0.812" ID)
-any tube with the 0.812" ID will work

2) 1.5" .120 DOM for sleeving (optional)

3) Tie rod tube should be about 38"for stock early Bronco knuckles (39.5" for 76-77 disk knuckles) and drag link should be about 25" for high misalignment ends and 27" if using the tie
rod ends for the drag link). If using the F150 box and the high misalignment ends, then the drag link tube length should be 18.75".

4) 7/8" x 18 UNEF extra fine left and right hand taps
Travers Tool Co, Inc
14-056-182 (plug style)7/8-18 right hand $20.47
McMaster-Carr
2595A424 7/8-18 right hand $49
2595A999 7/8-18 left hand $108

5) Reamer is 7 degrees (3.5 per side)
Afco Racing $120 p/n 80770
http://www.afcoracing.com/products/getproduct.cfm?CategoryID=8ClassID=121SubclassID=5 65&ProductID=2631
Optional Reamer Sources:
Stock Car Products $80 p/n R8201
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/
Goodson $50 p/n TR-216-2
http://www.goodson.com/scripts/mshop/
Snap On $37 p/n R121
https://buy.snapon.com/

6) Rod ends
-pass side tie rod (with hole and regular misalignment) 85 Blazer
-driver side tie rod (regular misalignment) 85 Blazer
-pass side drag link end (high misalignment)
-pitman arm side drag link end (high misalignment)

Autozone:
ES2233L $25.99 pass side tie rod
ES2234R $23.99 driver side tie rod
ES2027L $18.99 high misalignment drag link end
ES2026R $20.99 high misalignment drag link end

Autozone Online Prices:
ES2233L $25.99 pass side tie rod
ES2234R $24.99 driver side tie rod
ES2027L $24.99 high misalignment drag link end
ES2026R $24.99 high misalignment drag link end

7) big end of the tie rod is .78" and the small end is around .67"

8) The tie rod ends should come with the jam nuts, but the drag links won't. I searched high and low for the source for the jam nuts and have only come up with the Chevy part numbers which are 14026805 (left hand) and 14026806 (right hand)[

Damn Mark, what does your favorites list look like???? That is just baaaad assssss!!! thanks a million for the help, i now know which way I am going.

Dimtiri

Originally posted by welndmn
stolen from quinn

1) 1.250 OD x 0.812 ID DOM for the tie rod (tap directly into 0.812" ID)
-any tube with the 0.812" ID will work[

What are you guy's useing for the draglink? 1.25OD/.812ID?

Redneck Ram

Originally posted by Mcstiff


What are you guy's useing for the draglink? 1.25OD/.812ID?

Yep tie rod and drag link, taped 7/8-18 LH on one end and RH on the other with the GM ends that are listed above.
Everyone always tells people to SEARCH so I would like to take this opportunity to thank you for searching :D

Thanks, been here long enough to know how search works:D

use the same stuff for the drag link.
i ended up using 1.25 OD x .250" wall DOM because it was much cheaper and quicker to get than the .812 ID tube. i just had to bore the ID from .750 to .8125. if you do this- use a boring bar, as a drill didn't work well enough in my experiences. and opt for a GOOD reamer. my goodson piece dulled after only 8 reams.

I built my own. TR flip and cheby TRE's. Couldn't be happier. Adjusting is super easy too

http://home.earthlink.net/~mattsara/bb/steeringlinkage.jpg

Come Awn Dima you know one of your club members is an eb know it all. CAll Mike up he will set you up with it all. The chevy tre conversion. Actually just cruise up here to chico for a snow run and put it on up here. The set up i have in mine is just like nobody's but i used 1.5 solid cro-mo

I did the same setup as most of you (chevy TREs) except i used the weld in bungs from spyder customs. I live up in Canada where a good machine shop is few and far between. I was going to have to buy the taps myself but they were over $300 for the set so the bungs were the way to go. I used 1.50 o.d.x1.00 i.d. DOM tubing for links which worked out good. The DOM is SUPER expensive though. I paid $13/ft, and most places i tried (steel shops) didnt even know what DOM was, they were trying to sell me Schedule 80 PIPE. I envy you guys sometimes for having all the hookups fairly local. Must make it ALOT easier!:D

I thought that I saw a site somewhere that had the left hand tread nuts listed for something like $10. Does anyone know of a source?

Is there a on-line place where I can order "14026805 (left hand) and 14026806 (right hand)" shuvy stuff?

I am in the process of doing this conversion. I am using 4140 1 3/8 hex Chromoly solid steel hardened to around RC30 to 35. Should be considerably stronger than the C1018 steel that everone else seems to be using, yet ductle enough to keep it from shattering. The hex adds several percent more strength while not causing more of an interferance problem with the diff cover as long as it is clocked correctly.

I am a little concerned that I won't be able to dial out the bump steer by moving the track arm around though, but we'll see when I get there.

i was able to get the right and left hand jam nuts from my local chev dealer for about $7/ piece. it only took 2 or 3 days to get them in.

I got mine from www.CRLCustoms.com. Cory is a great guy and does great work.

http://www.4x4ord.com/Images/Rampart03-A.jpg