: Opinions on welders...


squirrelman83
04-04-2002, 10:48 PM
I'm looking into buying a MIG welder and wanted your opinions. I will be getting a 135A/110V unit and learning to weld on it. I want to stay under $500 and don't really want 220V because I think I'll be just fine with the 110V for anything I want to do. So what have you guys used and liked? Opinions? I never welded before, so I'll be looking for a machine that is easy to learn on and use. Thanks. ~Steve

mas2
04-04-2002, 10:55 PM
Hi, do not buy a 110/130a welder. I did this also, buy a 220/175a the first time. Hobart175 $585 is what I paid

poppycock
04-04-2002, 11:08 PM
millermatic 210 :D

RockRanger
04-04-2002, 11:50 PM
I got a lincoln mig pac 10. it is 110v. I wish I would have gotten a 220 the first time and spent the extra few bucks. It has welded everything I have needed it to just wish that i had a bit more when welding thicker stuff.

Matt

Wilson
04-04-2002, 11:56 PM
it's better to go with a 220. I've used the new lincoln's and like them, I just need to try a miller before I buy mine, since my buddy that has one is moving at the end of this month.

fatkid
04-05-2002, 12:07 AM
Lincoln makes nice machines, we have 3 of them. Miller also makes a nice machine we have a Scyncro 250. If you plan on getting a SP-135 get the Plus mod, it has the reastat heat setting. But if your going to spend money on a box and you have 220 to work off spend a little more and spring for a more powerful unit, maybe a 170 or Miller 185. Just my.02

Shrock
04-05-2002, 12:38 AM
Yes suck it up and get the 220V. Miller owns Hobart now and the Hobarts are basically Millers with a few parts that aren't quite as beefy. The parts are interchangeable. I have the Miller 175. I'd rec. the Hobart 175 mentioned above to save $100 if you are stretching it. I've only heard good things about them. The Weldpack lincoln's at Homedepot and Lowes are a bit of a step down, but people seem to like them.

Worst case money wise, buy the Lincon 220V model from Lowes or Homedepot.

poppycock
04-05-2002, 01:00 AM
hobart 175 is a good deal and welds great.

0ILBURNER
04-05-2002, 06:26 AM
Squirelly,

I got a little 110 gas mig I am about to sell. I will be traveling through CO on my way to Moab in a week or so. There isn't anything wrong with it - I'm going to 220v (you will, too eventually) It's great for small stuff but takes a lot of work on thicker material. If you are interested send me a p.m. - I could arrange delivery :)

scwafish
04-05-2002, 07:13 AM
I have a Miller 135 (110), and for most things it works great. Tusker has a Miller 185 (220) and it is really the shiot for a home unit.

Depending on what you want to do 220 is nice but not necessary. Afterall your a sami guy right? Everything on the rig is THIN metal. If you want to use material thicker than 3/16 your just making your rig too heavy. :) In the rare cases where you need the beef go to a friends or take it to a pro.

IMHO...Its more about the welder holding the torch, and less about the welder sitting on the cart. I've seen lame work come from amazing machines and beautiful welds from an old Lincoln buzz box.

Tusker
04-05-2002, 07:22 AM
Originally posted by scwafish
...Its more about the welder holding the torch, and less about the welder sitting on the cart.....

Amen to that brother scwafish, but it isn't nice to talk publicly about my lame work :flipoff2:

IMHO, I think the 220 model is the way to go. Maybe it isn't necessary (and it really isn't for Sami work), but I like the idea of spending a little more on the beef with the hopes it will not have to work as hard and will last longer.

Azrckcrawler
04-05-2002, 07:27 AM
I'd skip the 110 as well. I have one but don't like using it. I picked up a 220v arc welder for $75 at a yard sale (also came with enough 1/8th inch rod to build a bridge). I use the 220 almost exclusively because I know it can penetrate , the 110 lays so much material on the surface it takes some practice to make good penetrating welds on anything thicker than 1/8th steel. And you will find uses for thicker materials, steering box spacer plates come to mind, nerf bars, winch mount plates, etc.

scwafish
04-05-2002, 07:28 AM
little more on the beef with the hopes it will not have to work as hard and will last longer

Pigboy has a good point here. My 135 needs to go to the shop, I may have pushed the duty cycle a tad :D The little guys arent made for hardcore usage, so if your gonna work it hard, something bigger would last longer.

squirrelman83
04-05-2002, 07:31 AM
Well, here's what I'm planning to do with it. I want to be able to make some protection (ie, rocker guards, bumpers, tire carrier), axle stuff (spring perches for toy axles, traction bar, shock mounts), exhaust work, and maybe tube the rear of the Samurai later. I really didn't want the 220V due to having to plumb 220 into the garage, cost is more, and it just sounds intimidating over a 110V. I don't really see myself using material that is over 1/4" thick, so is it really worth all the extra money? Thanks. ~Steve

Root Moose
04-05-2002, 07:37 AM
Like everyone else here, go 208V from the get go.

I have a Lincoln SP-175 MIG. Great machine, effortless to use. I can even weld Sam body sheet metal with this thing and I have no formal training.

HTH

r@m

Azrckcrawler
04-05-2002, 07:50 AM
Originally posted by squirrelman83
Well, here's what I'm planning to do with it. I want to be able to make some protection (ie, rocker guards, bumpers, tire carrier), axle stuff (spring perches for toy axles, traction bar, shock mounts), exhaust work, and maybe tube the rear of the Samurai later. I really didn't want the 220V due to having to plumb 220 into the garage, cost is more, and it just sounds intimidating over a 110V. I don't really see myself using material that is over 1/4" thick, so is it really worth all the extra money? Thanks. ~Steve

You could do what I did at the last house, I plugged the 220V in where the clothes dryer plugged in.

mas2
04-05-2002, 08:14 AM
I had to run 220v out to the garage also. It only cost $50 from home depot on parts.

Mike

spencurai
04-05-2002, 09:23 AM
i just have a pile of car batteries, a bunch of jumper cables and a bucket full of small change (nickels pennies and such). you people with your fancy shmancy store bought welders can all go suck an egg!?! i will stick with my redneck ways:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :nuke: ;)

tdavis
04-05-2002, 10:29 AM
You guys are making it difficult..

$600 for a 220v welder
or
pay someone to weld up some stuff (probably more than $600 for that)
or
couple hundred in beer, get some of the locals to come over and help..

Decisions, Decisions..

yager
04-05-2002, 10:47 AM
I got a hobart handler 185 220v it welds great. (~$100 less than the miller)

From readng your list of things you plan to do, id get the 185 at a minimum.

I looked at the miller 210 and it would have been almost double the cost. Its an awsome machine so maybe in a few years....

One thing I like is the 185s are portable (~70lbs) and as someone mentioned above I can plug it into any 3 prong dryer outlet. I have ~20' if heavy guage cable to make an extension and i have several adaptors to plug into various outlet.. twistlock/4 pring dryer. 50am/30amp etc... Plus a small bottle to tote vs the big one...

good luck
-mike

Tusker
04-05-2002, 01:03 PM
Pigboy has a good point...
Easy there "Fishy Woman"!

My old machine was a Millermatic 35. I can't remember the output, but I think it was around 250 amps. I miss that thing, it would weld a battleship together. I now have the Millermatic 185. I got it on-line for $550 as I recall.

The 110 model won't do 1/4" properly, especially if you aren't a pro. In the hands of the ametuer (and I should know, I are one), these little machines aren't going to get you joints as strong as the base metal in anything over 1/8". For something like a tire carrier (assuming it is a swing-away type), you are going to want a bigger machine. Also when you get welding vertical or inverted, you are going to need more heat than normal. That starts to really limit you if you are using a 110.

squirrelman83
04-05-2002, 01:46 PM
Alright, guys, you've got me convinced on a 220V. So I should look for a 175A/220V or ??? Thanks for all the help; I can't wait to get started. :) ~Steve

squirrelman83
04-05-2002, 02:13 PM
I'm looking seriously at the Hobart Handler 175. They have it at http://www.cyberweld.com/hobhan175.html for $555 with free shipping. Sounds like a good deal, and is about $100 less than the 175 Miller and Lincoln I saw at other welding sites. Seems like a decent welder for the price and should be more than capable of doing the above mentioned items, no? Opinions? Thanks again for all the help, guys. Glad I checked into it before I spent any money. Looks like I can get the 175A for about $100 more than I would have payed for the 135A. Let me know what you think. :) ~Steve

Shrock
04-05-2002, 04:00 PM
$100 more...exactly...it's a no brainer. Now go buy it!!!

Tusker
04-05-2002, 04:43 PM
I think you made the right choice. You can get the Millermatic 175 at www.welders-direct.com for $635 with free shipping. The Miller has two features which make it better than the Hobart and Lincoln IMHO. One is that the voltage adjustment on the Miller is a variable (reostat) type, with the Hobart and Lincoln there are only four pre-set settings. Not a big deal, but if you want to adjust the heat a bit, you can tweak it with the Miller without having to go up or down by the fixed settings (100%, 50%, 33% or 25%) like you do on the others. The other is the drive wheels on the Miller are steel, while I think they are plastic on the Hobart and Lincoln. Again, these are not huge issues, but something to think about. Good luck, and happy welding :smokin:

fj40charles
04-14-2002, 09:31 PM
One other comparison between the Hobart and Miller is the duty cycle. Miller seems to have a better duty cycle compared to a Hobart. Personally, I'm going to buy a Millermatic 210. It is cheaper to buy what you want and not have to worry about out-growing it.

Charles

jims4x4
04-15-2002, 07:44 PM
I got the millermatic 210 with the aluminum spool gun and love it.step up and just get a real welder to start with.