I've been trying to figure out what the best rear axle would be for a 66-77 bronco. I want to go w/ something that is difficult or almost impossible to break, while not spending outragoues money. Im just looking for a stock axle I can find from a donor truck. I wanted to go bigger than the stock 9". I'm set on a D60, but when searching all over the internet, ive seen people hate on the D60 and say D70's or a 14bolt is better. I know it varies from person to person. This will be a trail bronco only.

As for the D60...what years are the best? Does it really matter? I know earlier ones are not as wide.

Can any1 post what they prefer and why? TIA !!!

Sterling 10.25



People hate on the rear D60 because in stock form its not that strong. 30 spline shafts vs. 31 spline on a 9". Yes, you can swap it to 35 spline and then it will be beef but to some people that defeats the purpose of going with a cheap junkyard rear to begin with.

Why dont you post a little about your rig and why a 35 spline 9" wouldnt do the trick for you... that might help people point you in the right direction (ie. 500+ hp/tq and 4link rear wall climber etc etc so the 9" wont be stout enough)

Im building a bronco from frame up. Im gonna do a 4 link rear setup and will be running a basically stock 5.0Ho from a mustang. Just looking to build a super rock crawler. I wanted to find a axle w/out having to upgrade the axle's and spend more money that way. Basically, im looking for the best bang for the buck, but w/out losing strength. I dont wanna be changing axle shafts on the trail all the time.

You can beef up a 9" to be stronger than a 60. It just takes money though.
Otherwise a 14 bolt would be my choice.

d70 1.5" 35 spline shafts and good gear and locker selection

Also, the axles you guys are suggesting, what are the best years to get em out of for a early bronco? Does it really matter for the rear? I know some axles are a little wider than others, just not sure which ones???

what year donor trucks should i find these axles in?

Also, what kinda rockwell axles are you guys talking about for rock crawlers?

I was thinking of using a 14 bolt myself.. found everywhere.. and strong. anybody running these??

I was thinking of using a 14 bolt myself.. found everywhere.. and strong. anybody running these??

nope no one runs a 14bolt you would be the first person ever to do that :rolleyes:

Also, what kinda rockwell axles are you guys talking about for rock crawlers?

most people run the Toploading 2.5 ton rockwells commonly found in the 2.5ton 6x6 military trucks

Point is, there is no single "best axle" for all applications. It all depends on your goals.

nope no one runs a 14bolt you would be the first person ever to do that

No he would not be the first. I run a 14bolt FF. And I love it.

Just go with a 14bolt ff. They are cheap, easy and cheap to convert to disc, have the extra pinion support bearing and are strong as hell.

I run one with 40" Boggers with no problems and will soon be going to 44's.

http://www.southgeorgia4x4.com/images/1140382814.jpg

14 bolt info.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/index.html
Brand new 14 bolt with disks, 4.56 gears and a detroit.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-14-bolt-rear-4-56-detroit-disc-brakes-dana-60_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33731QQitemZ80448052 78QQrdZ1
There are a bunch of these on ebay.

I put $$$ into my 9 and never look back.
I like the 70 over the 14 bolt, mainly because of gear and locker choices.

No he would not be the first. I run a 14bolt FF. And I love it.


i was being sarcastic hence the ( :rolleyes: ) smiley

14 bolt is gonna be least expensive but you could put 35 spline axles in the stock 9" and a locker. I'd compare the price to R&R a 14 bolt and buy a lcoker for it vs upgrading the 9" to 35 spline.

I'm keeping my 9" for the strength I can build into it, the options to upgrade it further down the road, it's clearance, and it's lighter weight.

14 bolt is gonna be least expensive but you could put 35 spline axles in the stock 9" and a locker. I'd compare the price to R&R a 14 bolt and buy a lcoker for it vs upgrading the 9" to 35 spline.

I'm keeping my 9" for the strength I can build into it, the options to upgrade it further down the road, it's clearance, and it's lighter weight.

No, you can't just put in 35 spline shafts into stock 9" case.:shaking: You have to upgrade to an aftermarket 3.25 case...

Having built up a 35 spline 9" and 35 spline 60 the 60 was much cheaper. That being said if you want a more or less bulletproof, cheap out of the box axle then go 14 bolt, no questions asked. Cheap lockers (or weld it), 30 spline FULL Floating shafts and a massive R+P.

You can get one from a pick n pull for $50, then regear it, weld it and add disks without breaking the bank.

edit: 14 bolt axle is 30 spline not 35, sorry

No, you can't just put in 35 spline shafts into stock 9" case.:shaking: You have to upgrade to an aftermarket 3.25 case...

Having built up a 35 spline 9" and 35 spline 60 the 60 was much cheaper. That being said if you want a more or less bulletproof, cheap out of the box axle then go 14 bolt, no questions asked. Cheap lockers (or weld it), 35 spline FULL Floating shafts and a massive R+P.

You can get one from a pick n pull for $50, then regear it, weld it and add disks without breaking the bank.

No, no you can get an "N" case from a boneyard or E-bay not just AFTERMARKET!:shaking:

sxcuse me for trying to 35 spline a stock case:flipoff2:

Hey how about some 32 spline axle shafts from Moser They will fit you stock case.

No doubt the 14 bolt is less expensive and heavy as shit.

The only problem with 60's IMO depends on what you live.
It may be very hard to find someone to bore out your spindals, ir weld on new ones.

No, you can't just put in 35 spline shafts into stock 9" case.:shaking: You have to upgrade to an aftermarket 3.25 case...

Having built up a 35 spline 9" and 35 spline 60 the 60 was much cheaper. That being said if you want a more or less bulletproof, cheap out of the box axle then go 14 bolt, no questions asked. Cheap lockers (or weld it), 35 spline FULL Floating shafts and a massive R+P.

You can get one from a pick n pull for $50, then regear it, weld it and add disks without breaking the bank.


14bolts are 30 spline 1.5" are they not

14bolts are 30 spline 1.5" are they not

1.5" 30 spline and no chromo's aftermarket from the link posted above.

I've spun the splines off of two 31 spline 9" stock axles, makes me wonder the strength of the 30 spline 14 bolt. I suppose they could be cut much stronger/deeper on an 1.5" shaft????

Nodulars are beefy as hell. Just go with a 70 or a sterling from an 80's f250 or f350. A 70 would be nice because if you have a chance of finding one with a powerloc, get it.

1.5" 30 spline and no chromo's aftermarket from the link posted above.

I've spun the splines off of two 31 spline 9" stock axles, makes me wonder the strength of the 30 spline 14 bolt. I suppose they could be cut much stronger/deeper on an 1.5" shaft????
They are a large 30 spline axle. However, the pressure angle on the splines is not the same as other manufacturers (Dana, for example)

Im kinda leaning towards a 14 bolt, which I never thought I would, the sound of the price is what gets me. Whatever I find the best deal on I guess is what i'll go with.

Please still comment and give me your advice.

What are the best year axle's to get for the following...

14 bolt - ?
D60 - ?
D70 - ?
D80 - ?
sterling 10.25 - ?

Thanks guys, gettin me back in the game!!! Its been 2 years :-(

A shaved 14 bolt would do the job quite well I would think. Just my 2c...

No, no you can get an "N" case from a boneyard or E-bay not just AFTERMARKET!:shaking:

sxcuse me for trying to 35 spline a stock case:flipoff2:

Hey how about some 32 spline axle shafts from Moser They will fit you stock case.

No doubt the 14 bolt is less expensive and heavy as shit.


If you want to run a 35 spline 9" you need a case with 3.25 bearings. "N" cases are 3.062. :flipoff2:

Go with the 14 bolt you will be glad you did. Like I said before they are cheap, easy to convert to disc, easy to setup gears, easy to work on period, extra pinion support that 60 does not have, gear sets to 5-13 that I know of and you may be able to find some lower. If you want a detroit they are cheaper for the 14 bolt ff (because the carrier is so strong you do not have to change it) than the other axles or you can go spool or weld it. The 14 bolt is stronger than the 60 or the sterling. You may loose a little ground clearance but you can shave the 14 bolt and gain most if not all of it back.

I was doing some research and i found a website about all the axles I wa slooking into. They said the 14bolt was only a semi-floating....arent there 14bolt FF's also?

Yes, the FF 14 bolt is the stronger one over the 14 bolt SF.

I built my 9" with 35 spline Yukon's and a Detroit. My next move is the Hi9. For me, money is secondary to clearance and function.

You NEED Rockwells. :grinpimp:

tell me more about these rockwells...price vs the other axles, etc. Ive been outta tha 4x4 game for like 2 years and feel retarded now, lol, not really, but ya know...

Yes, the FF 14 bolt is the stronger one over the 14 bolt SF.

I built my 9" with 35 spline Yukon's and a Detroit. My next move is the Hi9. For me, money is secondary to clearance and function.

You lucky rascal, you. :D I had to go the poor man's route with a 30-spline D60. I think I need you to use some of YOUR money to help out MY clearance and function, Joe.:flipoff2:

If you decide on a 9"....Here's what I have..Currie Extra HD houseing 3.25"dia., .250 thick with HD welded skid , Explorer disk brakes with integral parking brakes, Currie 31 spline axels with tapered bearings and Hd retainer plates, Currie Strange nodular iron case, Currie Hd pinion support, 4.86 with Detroit locker. Its stock EB width, complete rearend.
I would like to sell complete $2000.00 This is off my EB and has 6500 total miles mainly street but includes 2 trips to the Rubicon. This will cost ya $3k + new so save yourself some $$

Cary

so, your going to have a 5 lug front and 8 lug rear? whatcha got up front?

Personally, I like shaved 9's and 35 spline axles. The 70's are for my tow rig. I got two extra 70's... WHY IN HECK would ANYONE run a potato plow (14 bolt axle:flipoff2: ) in a Rock Crawling rig?? A 70 at least has better clearance, better shafts.....Leave the plows to the mud crowd.

Still haven't heard what use and tires this Bronco will have. straight up aftermarket 31spline SF shafts will take a lot of abuse if you're using reasonable tires. IF you're going bigger than 37's, you might look into something else, tho even 33 spline would bolt in and be damn strong and dirt cheap. A 14FF weighs 650LB, thats just retarded unless you run at least 40's.

Rockwells on 35s!! :laughing:

You lucky rascal, you. :D I had to go the poor man's route with a 30-spline D60. I think I need you to use some of YOUR money to help out MY clearance and function, Joe.:flipoff2:

Anytime Bill... just meet me in Dogpatch at 9:03 pm... :clown:

Leave the plows to the mud crowd.

I run 60's & 70's......14's are for chevys:laughing:

I have a rear D70 out of a Dodge. It is 35 spline and 1.5 shafts. costs $250. It is just as easy as any axle to put disc brakes on. I used 3/4 ton chevy rotors and calipers. Also, I was able to put ARB and 4.88 in it. I think the gearing goes lower than a 14 bolt also. I am very happy with my choice.

Before this axle, I had a stock D60 out of an E250 van. Cut the long side so it matched the short side length. 30 spline but it worked fine with 38s and the width matched the stock EB D44 with 8 lug outers. Definitely an easy cheap swap from the 9 inch small bearing I had in there and it had 4.10 gears from the factory.

in my EB I pulled the stock 9" out and replaced it with another 9"...fullwidth, 31spline, bigger drums brakes, equal length shafts, big bearing(same as stock), and the factory trussed housing from a 79 Bronco. this was the same rear out of my last trail truck and I used it hard with 35's and never had to pull the shafts out of the housing. like was said before it realy depends on tire size gearing and the type of driver you are...

I am planning to run 32's-33's on the EB so I should have no problem getting away with a stock 31 spline unit, but your needs might be different.

I plan on running a 37" tire, maybe a lil bit bigger.I wanna link the front and rear and its gonna be a full time rock crawler. No street, trailer all the way, just looking for the best rear axle for a rock crawler w/ 37"+ tire size. Im still undecided which way I wanna go, as soon as I think I made up my mind, i change it! owell, keep posted your experience or thoughts, its greatly appreciated!

I plan on running a 37" tire, maybe a lil bit bigger.
I'd go with a stock 31 spline 9" then and upgrade to 35 spline stuff as your right foot gains weight.

A 14FF weighs 650LB, thats just retarded unless you run at least 40's.

Whoa! Not that heavy. I have seen it posted at low 300 lbs (321 lbs I think) with a disc brake conversion. I want to weigh mine next time I have it loose.

I'd go with a stock 31 spline 9" then and upgrade to 35 spline stuff as your right foot gains weight.



Whoa! Not that heavy. I have seen it posted at low 300 lbs (321 lbs I think) with a disc brake conversion. I want to weigh mine next time I have it loose.

the drums are amazingly heavy, so a disc conversion would help, but 600-650 drum to drum is what I've seen listed more than once. Yuck!

stock 31's (lets face it, most of them have 20-30 years and a couple hundred thousand miles on them!) will probably let go eventually with 37+, but NEW good quality 31 spline shafts should hold up pretty well, and 33-35 spline stuff down the road if you like the go pedal a little too much.

You can find 14 bolts for real cheap. Then swap in disk brakes and shave the diff and you have yourself a VERY stout 'relatively' light axle with great ground clearance. If you look REAL hard you can find them in the the yards from the factory with 5.13 gears and a locker. The cab and chassis rears are about 63" wide. Mine sees alot more mud than rocks and with a 514 and 44" boggers I dont even worry about it. Good Luck!

Im kinda leaning towards a 14 bolt, which I never thought I would, the sound of the price is what gets me. Whatever I find the best deal on I guess is what i'll go with.

Please still comment and give me your advice.

What are the best year axle's to get for the following...

14 bolt - ?
D60 - ?
D70 - ?
D80 - ?
sterling 10.25 - ?
Thanks guys, gettin me back in the game!!! Its been 2 years :-(

If you get a Sterling, 87 and newer have the different pinion snout, which are better; but you can use the newer gears in an older housing...

Dana 70U's have better ground clearance... most of the 70s are pretty much the same through out the years, except for the early 70s when they have the course splines..

cool......you guys are helping alot....now its time for the fun part and start looking in the yards and on the internet for good deals!!!

Nick,
Not sure if I sent you pics of my hybrid 60/14b or not. It was a cheap way to get both 35spline and disks.
79 F-250 D60 on E-bay: $200 delivered
14B from junk yard with ruined center section: $25
3/4t cheby front calipers/rotors: free from friend
Great Lakes brackets: can't remember, but good deal
Machine work: $150
Randy's 35spline cut to length 4340 chromo axles: $225
7' of all thread to pull it together:$10
Spool/5.13's from Randy's: market price

Nick,
Not sure if I sent you pics of my hybrid 60/14b or not. It was a cheap way to get both 35spline and disks.
79 F-250 D60 on E-bay: $200 delivered
14B from junk yard with ruined center section: $25
3/4t cheby front calipers/rotors: free from friend
Great Lakes brackets: can't remember, but good deal
Machine work: $150
Randy's 35spline cut to length 4340 chromo axles: $225
7' of all thread to pull it together:$10
Spool/5.13's from Randy's: market price



a hybrid 60..is that a HP60??? How was it only $200 if it was the HP 60. I think this is the way im leaning towards.

Dana 60 with 14Bolt spindles welded on it. You can fine D60's pretty cheap on e-bay sometimes

o ok, gotcha....how much lower is your driveshaft than an actual HP60 driveshaft???

i'll throw in vote #56 for the dana 70.

if your thing about the 14 bolt, think about using a Eaton housing which resembles a 9in but on steroids commonly found on 72 and older chevy 3/4 and 1 ton trucks and its half the weight of a 14bolt, 3rd member drop out. The Eaton excepts all the Corp internals. It also has a lot better ground clearance as well. But again you are limited to gear hence the internals are 14bolt. Good luck!

Stop thinking so hard. If you're only going with some 37" radials and a 220hp 5.0, a 31spline 9" will more than likely work fine for you. Buy some chromo 31spline shafts if you're really worried.

ditto. even a pumped up 5.0L with <37's will be fine with good 31 spline 9" shafts.