Specs

85 yota front axle
v6 third with lockrite
superbirfs

got my kick ass superbirfs in the mail and went on my merry way to install them.

Did the martack as seen on the net. Went to put the inners in and no fit. My inners would not slide into the third member all the way. With the super birf on, it was about 1/4 too long. Ended up having to grind all of the martack off to get the inner to slide in and fit. Any ideas, what the hell went wrong. I thought it possibly was a fluke, but i had the same problem with the long/short side. I did the martack exactly as seen on the net, leaving the 1 3/8 1 1/2 spline left. Is there a difference with the v6 compared to the 4cyl when doing the martack? The super birfs do look badass though...

Not all Mar-Tacks go in the same place,depends on what type of Locker you have. Smear grease all over the diff end of the splines and put axle end into the "Sweet spot" for the seal. Carefully pull the axle out and do the tack on the mark left by the ridge of grease.:D

On my 84 front axle with an ARB the" sweetspot" is at 1 3/16

I heard with a clunk right you didn't need the martack.;)

Originally posted by weigellj
Specs

85 yota front axle
v6 third with lockrite
superbirfs

got my kick ass superbirfs in the mail and went on my merry way to install them.

Did the martack as seen on the net. Went to put the inners in and no fit. My inners would not slide into the third member all the way. With the super birf on, it was about 1/4 too long. Ended up having to grind all of the martack off to get the inner to slide in and fit. Any ideas, what the hell went wrong. I thought it possibly was a fluke, but i had the same problem with the long/short side. I did the martack exactly as seen on the net, leaving the 1 3/8 1 1/2 spline left. Is there a difference with the v6 compared to the 4cyl when doing the martack? The super birfs do look badass though...

You do need to check the distance to know where to put the tack weld, if its needed at all. I've seen differences with various types of diffs:

http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleRebuild.shtml#Martack

Originally posted by JackA
I heard with a clunk right you didn't need the martack.;) I've seen two people post so far that they needed to mar-tack with a lockright. I'll let you know what I find out next weekend, when I put a lockrighted 4-cyl in the front axle.

Hopefully my lockright and super birfs will be going in this weekend or first part of next week as well. BTW I notice in all the pictures I've seen of the super birfs the ring part at the end is welded nice and neatly and smooth and you can't hardly even tell it's bigger unless you compare it w/ a stock birf. Mine was all buggered up looking around the ring with dents and cracks and what not...not that I care how it looks long as it holds up. just wondered if anyones elses looked like that :rasta:

When I got my super birfs, they looked excellent, craftsmanship wise. The welded ends looked excellent

I did the smear with the grease and also followed the instructions on rogers page

On the short side, I ended up grinding all of the weld off and putting it back in and it fit fine. The long side, I gave up on and just put a differnt long side I had. Seemed to go in fine and rest on the seal where it should have been.

As many times as I took that front end apart, I feel like a pro birf changer :D

My sweetspot also seemed to be 1 3/16

I don't think it is neccesary to martack the v6third with a lockright, but I could be wrong. Hopefully someone else will chime in if they had too... Actually, has anyone installed a v6 in the front and martack'd?

Testing them on the weekend of the 20th up at the Pipeline in Wisconsin if anyone wants to tag along and see if they are unbreakable. Hopped up 4.3 w/39.5 boggers :D Should be interesting to say the least...

Originally posted by weigellj
Has anyone installed a v6 in the front and martack'd?Probably most people who have put a stronger third in the front have gone high-pinion. I know I wouldn't turn someone down who threw one at me right now...

81Hilux, here's a pic of one of mine next to a stocker. Both longfields were pretty stinkin' clean... but you could tell some work had been done - there were nicks, and you can see the begin/end of the weld bead of you look closely:
http://home.off-road.com/~mithrandir/longfield/birf10.jpg

that's what I'm talking about dr. evil yours are how every picture I have seen have looked, however, mine had 1 1/2 to 2" pits around the ring like it had been welded in spots and not filled in with anything, not little bitty dots like yours. We will see how they hold up. I was not in the mood to ship them back and have to wait another couple weeks for replacements. Also at the time, I had not seen pictures of any other ones except the ones on the main pirate page. I did check the balls inside and none of them were pitted or anything as one person on here reported. Just seemed to be poorer welding on the ring. BTW, mine were BRAND new birfields, not core replacements, which I realize doesn't have anything to do with the ring, but for what I paid, I was hoping to see nice pretty ones like everyone else has been showing :D

http://home.earthlink.net/~willchilds/superbirf.jpg

I resubmit the pic I posted when mine came in, notice down on the lower side the black looking area around the ring, that is a crevice where there is no weld etc. and plenty more that size

Hey Doc, evil that is, you got to quit showing that nasty ass birf pic'd next to the longfield. I mean, do you wipe when your done :flipoff2:

81hilux


As far as the buggers on the ring being welded on, Bobby stated that the grinding is just for apperances, to make them look smooth and helps for the grease application. Not all the axles will look perfect, he only grinds them down to get the splatter off. If he ground them down to far all the strength would be lost.

Not all carriers need the Martack, it is important to grind the Martack down flush in order to get them into the carrier. Bobby can not express enough that if you have any questions or problems he is available by phone (253-847-8254) most any time. He would like to hear from you, before you post your problems on Pirate.

If you try and do not get him by phone, you must remember that he also has a wheeler and is out trying to break them himself, so leave him a message and he will get back to you. If you would like to see some of our pictures you may go to Toyotasuperaxles.com.

Bobby wishes you luck in your wheeling adventures.

Originally posted by BrianR
Hey Doc, evil that is, you got to quit showing that nasty ass birf pic'd next to the longfield. I mean, do you wipe when your done :flipoff2: It wasn't mine. It was a buddies, and I have no control over his parts-wiping habits.

I just gooped a bunch of beads on the shaft and pounded the thing in :D :D

We need to get a concensus on where to get the tack at with which ever locker is in there for tech reference. If anyone has all of the different scenerios saved. It would give something for Bobby to put on his site for everyone.

when doing a martack how do you limit the tack to just 1 3/8" do you rap the splines with somthing to keep the weld at the distence you wont. or just weld and take what you get and hope its not to far in.how much room for error do you have and what do you do if it is to close? i have to do mine.should have my longfiulds soon

Originally posted by toy 4 rox
when doing a martack how do you limit the tack to just 1 3/8" do you rap the splines with somthing to keep the weld at the distence you wont. or just weld and take what you get and hope its not to far in.how much room for error do you have and what do you do if it is to close? i have to do mine.should have my longfiulds soon

I wrap some masking tape around the end and use that a a guide. A small cutoff wheel in a Dremel can open up the groove in the spline if you go in too far. I find it works best to start out at 1-1/2" or 1-3/8", push it in and see if its enough, if not, add another spot and test again. Once the depth is right, add 2 more tack welds and repeat on the other side (I find its usually the same disctance). Details on this are on my page:

http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleRebuild.shtml#Martack

Originally posted by 4CrawlR


I wrap some masking tape around the end and use that a a guide. A small cutoff wheel in a Dremel can open up the groove in the spline if you go in too far. I find it works best to start out at 1-1/2" or 1-3/8", push it in and see if its enough, if not, add another spot and test again. Once the depth is right, add 2 more tack welds and repeat on the other side (I find its usually the same disctance). Details on this are on my page:

http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleRebuild.shtml#Martack thanks..i go to your site ofton lots of good stuff i allso have a true track in frunt so i will go to your site for the rite spot to weld