Ok, I have read all the wealth of info in the archives. Some more questions.

I read somewhere that the ram can be longer than neccesary right? The power steering box gets to the end of it's travel and does a "bypass" preventing further travel (hence the change in sound)? Is that bad for the box (one post said he blew his box from running it to the stops)?

If it is ok for the box, then what I am thinking is I should NOT have any steering stops on the axle, the ram should be slightly longer than the total travel of my tie-rod, and should ONLY use the stops in the steering box? Is that right? Then I just "tune" the distance beween the center of my king pin and my drag link to get the total steering distance I want? Does that sound like the right way to do it?

And don't give me any of that "just get 8" travel crap - this is fully custom with the tie rod behind the axle :flipoff2:

Also for the cooler - it goes on the return line from the power steering box. Does the line off the box go to the top of the cooler, then the bottom of the cooler to the pumps return?

Thanks for your help,

Phil Jensen

I would use steering stops on the axle. I just can't imaging using the steering box as the steering stops. The steering box will stop applying pressure at the stops, but what is keeping the rig from turning if the tire is up against a rock?

Originally posted by Eric
I would use steering stops on the axle. I just can't imaging using the steering box as the steering stops. The steering box will stop applying pressure at the stops, but what is keeping the rig from turning if the tire is up against a rock?

I agree i would use the stops on the axles. if you are using hydraulic assist I wouldn't let the boxe be the stop, the hydraulic assist will destroy the box!

One problem I see with using the box as a stop is that if your geometry isn't dead on, you won't get full steering when twisted up. I think mine has this problem now, I need to get a slightly longer pitman arm. I like the idea of using the ram as the stop, but I'm no expert on the subject.

Pete

How could the ram destroy the box? Once the box gets to it's stops it hits a bypass valve of some kind no?

If I use the stops on the axle, then does the ram not try to break stuff everytime it hits the stops?

H8Monday? Or anyone that has done this stuff, can you comment?

Phil

I DONT THINK WHEN THE BOX STOPS THE RAM STOPS.........WELL AT LEAST THATS WHAT AGR SAID:question: :question:

On my F350 with Rockram the tires (325/85R16 XML)hitting the springs are the stop. Nice soft flexible....
Charlie

I don't know about the by-pass, but I'd have stops at the knuckles for sure. If you are comming down a steep gully, and get a front tire into the bank, you will have some serious pressure on the box and pitman arm.
btdt
I'd get everything working perfect, and turning as sharp as you can get it, then work on the stop adjustment.

I would recommend that you make the stops on the axle be the limiting spot. You can make the box the limit but it can cause problems down the road. Binding on the bearings or something of that nature.
And the box doesn't bypass any thing. The pump is what bypasses when the box and ram stop and allow the pump to build up enough pressure so that the high pressure bypass is released. That is the little bb and spring inside you piston in the pump. This is the way all power steering units work in some way or another

OK I have to go against the grain on this one. I have the Howe setup. When you buy thier setup the ram is internally adjusted to the length you want. Then take the axle stops off. Mine is right at 7". I was told the reason for this is the ram can possibly break things when it hits the stops on the knuckle.
Anyways it seems to work very well and never had a bit of trouble with it.:)

Originally posted by 1TONTJ
How could the ram destroy the box? Once the box gets to it's stops it hits a bypass valve of some kind no?

If I use the stops on the axle, then does the ram not try to break stuff everytime it hits the stops?

H8Monday? Or anyone that has done this stuff, can you comment?

Phil

there is not a bypass in the box, the bypass is in the pump, when it hits it's preset pressure it'll pop open, and maintain that pressure, you'll still be applying the pump's set pressure (about 1500 PSI) to the ram, which with a 2" ram equates out to over 4700 lbs of force trying to force the steering further than the box stops (with a 2" ram). This force will, if you're lucky tear the steering linkage apart, if you're unlucky it'll rip the box apart.

Originally posted by 1TONTJ
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And don't give me any of that "just get 8" travel crap - this is fully custom with the tie rod behind the axle :flipoff2:


Phil Jensen
sounds like a crappy "custom" job if you can't even use the correct 8" ram. :flipoff2:

mine is full hydro with the ram behind the axle and i managed to use a 8" ram

What do you guys know about Tommy Lee ram assist?

Put the stops in or you will at some time bust the sector shaft off the box without a doubt. Not so much from the force of the ram but from the force of the wheel turned all the way and the weight of the rig on it along with the force of the ram. But don't worry about the ram breaking the tierod because 4700 pounds of force aint sh!t comared to what it can take. To put it into perspective just remember that a 9000 pound winch pulls on a hook that is held to the cable by a low quality 5/16 pin and it should have a 100% safety factor.

Camo.
There are quite a few front's that don't cycle 8" because they run shorter arms so the tierod cycles less but the tires still move the same amount. I just did a 44 that I couldn't get any more than 6.750 out of due to that. My 60 moves 8" without a problem but the distance from center of the kingpin to the center of the tierod is greater.

Originally posted by Goat Boy
What do you guys know about Tommy Lee ram assist?

i know he used to ram pam :flipoff2:

seriously. if you are refering to the LEE that builds off road racing systems then he, like jeff howe are at the top of the game.

All that bypass stuff is not the only problem. It dosn't really matter because if you don't have steering stops you will tear up axle joints. W/ out the stops the axle will over steer and under pressure it binds the axle u-joints and will break or wear them out fast. So if you stop it at the axle you will cure all your problems. I use rod bolts on my 60. They bend all the time w/ my Howe ram but they wont break and easy to replace.

Originally posted by camo


i know he used to ram pam :flipoff2:

seriously. if you are refering to the LEE that builds off road racing systems then he, like jeff howe are at the top of the game.

Nice. I know a couple of guys runnin his stuff. It seems like nice stuff. Just tryin to probe for some info.

Thanks for all the info guys. I have learned a lot about ram assist now from this board :D

I ended up going with conventional inverted T hi-steer (no room on my 5 link TJ for the behind the axle tie-rod (unless I want it to be on the ""redneck steering pages" ;)


Thanks,
Phil