I would like to hear your comments about to run tsl 33" maintaining stock axles with 4.56 (or 5.13?) R&P. Should I break from the beggining or depends more on driving habits than on the weack of the axles?.
I am also running birfields rings and 4.16 T case.
Does 5.13s develop to many rpms on highway?

Drive easy and they'll survive. Mine lasted a couple months before I snapped a front axle after getting a tire wedged (had rings so teh birf didn't blow).

Chris, by the way, in such case when you break an axle and do not grenade the birfield, is is possible to separate the axle and the birfield and repalce only to axle using same birfield?

this is an excellent question plese inform the newbies on this procedure?!?

I don't believe that is possible with the samurai birfields, you can do that with the Toy birfields.

Originally posted by Azrckcrawler
I don't believe that is possible with the samurai birfields, you can do that with the Toy birfields.

Besides, it's easier/faster to swap the whole unit.

r@m

I have seen Toy guys pop a new birf on an old shaft in a matter of seconds, doesn't take much. Nice thing is if your in a bind and only have a shortside, you can pull the birf off and reuse your longside shaft as long as the splines were not messed up.

Originally posted by GBRAVO
Should I break from the beggining or depends more on driving habits than on the weack of the axles?.

I broke a rear axle on the first trip (took about an hour)... 33" TSL Radials, GRS-II, stock axle gears, 1.3L EFI....

I broke a front axle on the next trip.... (not Birfield, axle shaft at the puny splines).

But some people call me an over achiever... :rasta:

33s seem to be the breaking point for stock axles... W/31 grsI and 5.13/lockrights...no problems. Switch to 33s= 2 broken front axles, 3 broken rear lockrights, 2 rear shafts, 1 front hub and 1 set front wheel bearings... GRSII would only add to the problems...

DANGER! DANGER WILL ROBINSON!!

If you like to put yer foot in it, you had better think twice about 33's, unless they are not very aggressive or you are only a street poser....:nuke:

Originally posted by 0ILBURNER
DANGER! DANGER WILL ROBINSON!!

If you like to put yer foot in it, you had better think twice about 33's, unless they are not very aggressive or you are only a street poser....:nuke:

Depends on where he is wheeling too. If he is dealing with mud more than anything else the stock axles will probably be fine. Guys around here are running 35s-38s on stock toothpicks and not breaking - but these are the mud bog guys.

If his terrain is anything like what Brazil Bill J. has (i.e. mud) he'll probably be ok with stock axles to start. Wasn't bill running 33" TSLs on toothpicks?

r@m

I have the stock axles w/GRSII, 5.13's, and birf rings. So far no carnage, but I drive with a very light foot. I'll admit that I worry a lot about it though. I carry so much spare crap (all four axles and the stuff to chage them all) on the trail that it is annoying.

If you have the money, I'd go with Toyota's or 44's. They seem more expensive in the beginning, but in the long run I am not so sure. If you are set on Samurai axles, I might just make you a deal on some :D

Even posers break stuff with 33s. I broke an axle & a Pinion gear w/ 33s. The pinion was in a parking lot. & I am extremely light footed.

I run 33x12.50 MT's on 2" back-spaced wheels. Knock-on-wood, I haven't had any problems. I have had them for about 8 months now, and it was fine before with 32" TSL's also. I worry about it somewhat, but it does okay for now. I will be swapping toy axles and 35's in the next few months, though. :D ~Steve

I've been running 32-11/50 tsl with 4.10 gears in the T/case and am locked F/R. for about 2 years.
So far my main problem has been with bearings and U joints. Got a KAD drive shaft for the rear and solved the U joint problem.

Anything under the sun will break! Take it easy, it should be fine.

I'm actually running stock gearing in the diffs and transfer case at the moment with a welded rear end and 34" swampers and haven't broken anything yet. I do have a rockhopper (GRS1) to go back in but not yet. Mind you the conditions here aren't rockcrawling more mud and slippery climbs but so far no breakage and its been about a year so far.

http://www.abusivemotorsports.com/upload/martinez_040702/birfield.jpg

Ran Martinez again today and was playing around making a u-turn in a tight wash. Didn't even make any noise when it popped. Anywhoo, that's with 32's, stock gearing in the axles and a GRS1. That's my first in about 4 months of fairly rough wheeling. 2 trips to Glamis, 2 trips through Martinez, 3 trips though both Terminators, once through Raw Deal, once through Predator, once through Judgement Day, once through Upper Ajax, once through Lower Woodpecker and a fun trip to Moab.

Only saving grace is they are super ass simple to replace :)

is that a birf?

It was. I'll sell it to ya, cheap :flipoff2:

thats ok i have about 20 extra axles.. We dont have mega traction around here so noones busted one yet. I just got 4.16's in though so ill give it my best to see if i can break one.

still kinda looks like zuki afterbirth to me

Stock axles will hold up to 33's i ran 33's for two years and never broke one and i live in farmington so i know what hard wheelin is . just watch the backing up thats when they like to go pop. Dont go any bigger than 33's my 35 's used to rip my samurai axles up evry wheelin trip

I run 33's on 2" backspaced rims and I don't think I would recomend it. Especially not with a welded carrier. I've broken 3 R&Ps (5.12's), had to get the diff rewelded twice (when I was still on 31's), split the side gears and twisted splines. I've blown through lotsa u-joints (sometimes more than one in a day) and destroyed all bearings and seals. Eventually, this gets old. Luckily, I never broke a shaft and since I have a landcruiser rear axle now, I don't think I will. In any event, give it a shot, you may not jump/rockcrawl/spin donuts in parking lots and your stuff may last forever. And the good side of breaking stuff, contributing to the economy, practice replacing stuff and eventually, those 33's will wear out and you can adjust your tire size accordingly.

Originally posted by Azrckcrawler
Drive easy and they'll survive. Mine lasted a couple months before I snapped a front axle after getting a tire wedged (had rings so teh birf didn't blow).

You runnign the Spidertrax rings? How you like em?

I'm thinking about adding them as preventive measures, but keeping the birfs from breaking makes me wonder where that break will move to. I mean, at some point, something is gonna go.

Kevin

Originally posted by ZooMigo


You runnign the Spidertrax rings? How you like em?

I'm thinking about adding them as preventive measures, but keeping the birfs from breaking makes me wonder where that break will move to. I mean, at some point, something is gonna go.

Kevin

I liked them, my axles survived for nearly two years. The breaking point moves to the splines, but after watching people change out all sorts of axles I think it is better to have the birf let go.

I ran on 31 TSLs for about 3 years without incident (inside the housings). then, all of a sudden.. every run it was a birfield.. a rear... another birfield... another rear...and so on. So, I upgraded to the Tracker/Hybrid rear and Trail Tough's double tuff axles (or whatever they're called). Then, I upped to 33 TSLs no problem, but I shredded the tires. So, I am running 33x14.50 Mickeys. Still no broken axles.. but, now I shear the flange bolts on the hubs. So, I upped the hardness on those and everything seems tight. Seems tight... So, I picked up some 35 Boggers.

More at 11.

Originally posted by GBRAVO
Chris, by the way, in such case when you break an axle and do not grenade the birfield, is is possible to separate the axle and the birfield and repalce only to axle using same birfield?

Yes.
Use a piece of pipe (longer and bigger around than the axleshaft) and drop what is left of the shaft into the pipe.
The birfield inner edge will sit against the pipe.
Slam the pipe on the rocks hard and eventually the shaft will pop out of the birfield.

class dismissed...

:nuke: :nuke: :nuke: :nuke:

Originally posted by billjohn
Use a piece of pipe (longer and bigger around than the axleshaft) and drop what is left of the shaft into the pipe.
The birfield inner edge will sit against the pipe.
Slam the pipe on the rocks hard and eventually the shaft will pop out of the birfield.Hmm... so that's just the way that the Toy guys do it, then. Here's a link to a thread I started on this topic, when I had to pull my birfs off to send them to Mr. Long: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=33660

Toyota guys don't run the little dinky c-clip on the inner axle, where it slides into the birf. This is why it's easy for us to change them on the trail... we don't have to pound the axle free of the birfield.

Without that clip, the axleshaft can slide into the diff far enough to leak past the inner seal, because the part of the axle that the seal rides on will slide in too far. So we put a tack-weld on the inner shaft, where it slides into the diff, so they can't slide in too far anymore.