I want to adhere some ~16ga 304 to a plywood or MDF underlayment.

Any thoughts on WTF to use for adhesive? If you scored the hell out of the underside of the steel with coarse sandpaper, could you get enough tooth for it to hold?

Lquid nails. That stuff will adhere to anything and is damn near impossible to get undone without destroying stuff.

http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?6666660Zjcf6lVs6EVs66SY6HCOrrrr Q-

Lquid nails. That stuff will adhere to anything and is damn near impossible to get undone without destroying stuff.


Agreed, It won't come loose.

http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?6666660Zjcf6lVs6EVs66SY6HCOrrrr Q-

Marine stuff is awesome! I used it for a quarter size hole I accidently cut in some steel, squirted some in there.. let it setup, sanded painted, looks just like the body and is TOUGH! Never nay problems and it gets wet/mudy/scraped consantly.

That marine stuff looks like it could work. Liquid nail would have been my next choice... but I didn't know if there was a better option out there. Thanks.

As far as marine stuff get 3M's 5200, but only if you never want to get it off again, we use it on motor mounts and thru hulls and other things that we never want removed. They also make 4200 which is more like a sealant , is easier to get off but still holds really well.

The 5200 takes a while to cure tho, about 2 days if its cold of humid, but worth the wait, i think they make a fast curing 5200 and they definatly make a fast cure 4200

Head over to west marine and check it out


Brendan

Liquid nails is too thick - you will wrinkle the 304 unless it is thick. Contact cement will work fine.

Go to a auto body supply place and ask for what they use to glue moldings onto car bodies with Had a tube of that and it would glue everything i even fixed a (glued a patch in)tarp with it it stays flexible

If you are doing a large area. I would suggest getting a floor trowel along with the large tubes of Liquid Nails.

The notched trowel made for applying cement for vynil will give you a better more efficent bonding. I would think 1/16" v-notch would probably be best.

Carl

We had some shit in auto body that was insanely strong, it came in a special two part mix with a special gun that squeezed it out together. We put two pieces of sheetmetal together and put it on a frame machine and it ripped the metal, the glue stuff held up just fine! I think it was made by 3M liquid weld or something like that, a body shop would know what it's called.

We had some shit in auto body that was insanely strong, it came in a special two part mix with a special gun that squeezed it out together. We put two pieces of sheetmetal together and put it on a frame machine and it ripped the metal, the glue stuff held up just fine! I think it was made by 3M liquid weld or something like that, a body shop would know what it's called.

Agreed, I believe it is called structural body adhesive and it is nasty stuff. Most of the cars nowadays are glued together believe it or not and this is the stuff they use. Just make sure it does not need to come apart after it is cured, because it won't.

Get ahold of Holandia sunroofs and see what the actual 2 part epoxy is that they use. I install their roofs and it is a epoxy glue that we stick the kits to the roof skin with. It is stong and will definitly hold your wood to the 304.

i used some stuff like liquid nails but it was made by locktite and was made for concrete to concrete bonding but they make some metal to wood stuff if not i'd use liquid nails.

West System epoxy is pretty damn strong, I'm real familar with the 3M 5200 product and it too would be a good choice.

loctite hysol works great for that kind of stuff. we use it to adhere composite panels to steel for tensile and shear testing. it'll rip the carbon fiber apart before the glue moves. it takes a few days soak in aircraft stripper to get it off. the stuff we use is the 4800 and 4200. one is 7 minute cure and one is like an hour, can't remember which is which.

Agreed, I believe it is called structural body adhesive and it is nasty stuff. Most of the cars nowadays are glued together believe it or not and this is the stuff they use. Just make sure it does not need to come apart after it is cured, because it won't.
That is some real nasty stuff, this is as close to a weld as you can get, it will never come apart, just dont get it on your hootus.

Gorilla Glue aka. polyurethane glue. It takes an ass load of time to dry but is freaking strong

i hate gorilla glue. it foams up when it cures and we couldn't get it to stick to aluminum for anything. we tried scuffed stuff, special adhesion promoters, nothing. the loctite stuff i mentioned earlier hooked right up to it.

How did this work out for you? What product did you use? I am doing the same thing (16ga stainless sheet to plywood).

LOL... I haven't done anything yet. Bought a sheet of MDF, and that's been it.

You can play guinea pig and let me know how it turns out. Deal?

I can't believe nobody asked. What are you doing that you need to glue MDF to steel? MDF isn't your everyday rockcrawler building material :flipoff2:

Ary

I'm building some sliders and skids! Have you ever seen how slippery MDF is? I'll be a rock-skiing king once it's all done! :flipoff2:

I think I am going to go the liquid nails route. The peice of steel is just going to be a counter top. Not very high stress. Maybe just smear a layer of glue out on the plywood and a layer on the steel. let them set for a few min and then put them together. I'll post some pics when I am done.

I'm building some sliders and skids! Have you ever seen how slippery MDF is? I'll be a rock-skiing king once it's all done! :flipoff2:
Too bad you're going with stainless. Could route some holes in the wood top to accept several heavy duty magnets glued in place flush with the surface and the magnets would hold your steel skin in place.

I think I am going to go the liquid nails route. The peice of steel is just going to be a counter top. Not very high stress. Maybe just smear a layer of glue out on the plywood and a layer on the steel. let them set for a few min and then put them together. I'll post some pics when I am done.

The problem with liquid nails is that it's a PITA to spread well. You'll end up with voids under spots and solid under others. The more consistently you can get the adhesive spread between the materials, the better I think you'll be in the end.

hey look for something made by SEM they have metal to metal its what they use on cars when repairing quarter panels a few spotwelds and a bead of this addhesive supposed to be strong than spot welds because it displaces the load across a larger area with not heat! but in your case im shure it would work!

Worth is another good company with a big selection of bonding agents.

You can try this 3M stuff here..

http://www.tapecase.com/tc/prodASP/FastbondContactAdhesives.asp

I used liquid nails and I am happy with the results. I spred the liquid nails around with a body puddy knife. I tried to peal the steel up the next day and I could not make it budge.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/trailerrails/coffeebar032.jpg

Shawn, what did you end up using?

I bought the plumbing service desk from the local Menards that's closing down for $30, nice heavy duty desk with cubby holes and peg board, 1" top but I'd like to top it off with some stainless or aluminum sheet to keep the liquids from soaking in.

Uh..... I'll get right on that... maybe... first of next week. I'll let you know.

I promise. :rolleyes:

Is this thread really 3mos old? Geebus.... guess I need to get on with it.

The liquid nails has been putting up with daily abuse as a work bench/ bar. If I had to do it again I would use liquid nails again. I roughed up the stainless surface before applying the glue.

Agreed, I believe it is called structural body adhesive and it is nasty stuff. Most of the cars nowadays are glued together believe it or not and this is the stuff they use. Just make sure it does not need to come apart after it is cured, because it won't.
Thats bull most cars are still spotwelded together. they use adhesive to hold doorskins together hold the doors to the pillars and so on. I recommend http://www.lord.com/Default.aspx?tabid=1190#110B111BT31