I just picked up my daughter's new Scout II! POS with a lot of potential. It's a 78, 345, 727, 4.10, SOA, 2" body lift, soft top, ps, pdb, no rust and a clean interior. I'll have her post a couple of poser pics later.

Needs front end work (rotate the knuckles), tires, brakes and just a general going through but it should be a great trail rig real soon.

So, jdjanda and JoshC, you guy's got me into this :rolleyes: I'm gonna need your help gettin' this POS road/trail worthy. What do you say? A little disfunctional work at my place?

Originally posted by Rubicrawler
I just picked up my daughter's new Scout II! POS with a lot of potential. It's a 78, 345, 727, 4.10, SOA, 2" body lift, soft top, ps, pdb, no rust and a clean interior. I'll have her post a couple of poser pics later.

:bounce: :bounce: Cograts, welcome to the new Binder owner Did you get the locker?

Originally posted by Rubicrawler
Needs front end work (rotate the knuckles), tires, brakes and just a general going through but it should be a great trail rig real soon.

No problem, you can use my old housing to setup, then swap it out. We'll go through it with a fine tooth comb and make a list.

Originally posted by Rubicrawler
So, jdjanda and JoshC, you guy's got me into this :rolleyes: I'm gonna need your help gettin' this POS road/trail worthy. What do you say? A little disfunctional work at my place?

POS? You mean the rig with the blue oval? :flipoff2:

Anytime, for the weekend. I might be able to swing by this weekend so we put together a cut sheet.

Joe

Joe- I'm picking up the EZ-Locker from Mossberg tonight:D Got some 36" SX's comming from Putzboy in a week or so.

I'll be in Sonoma tomorrow and I'll be working on the Scout all day Sunday. I'd love some help if you have time. I like the idea of a "punch list".

I'm actually looking forward to building a binder (oops :emb: did I say that outload?) Don't tell my blue oval buddies I said that! :)

I can't wait to help out! Joe is right about the cut sheet. Between he and I we should know enough of the common cures to get it healthy.

--Josh

Originally posted by JoshC
I can't wait to help out! Joe is right about the cut sheet. Between he and I we should know enough of the common cures to get it healthy.

--Josh

Great! Sunday good for you? I'll supply the :beer:

Originally posted by Rubicrawler


Great! Sunday good for you? I'll supply the :beer:

I think so. I've been working so much I have no idea what the hell is going on in my real life. :rasta:

Originally posted by JoshC


I think so. I've been working so much I have no idea what the hell is going on in my real life. :rasta:

You need a :beer: break anyway. Just tell Amy is a mental health day:D

OK, here is the start of the punch list Napa is a good source, and so is Monument Auto for most parts Here is a short list from what I remember when we looked at it.

Tune Up List

New poly body mounts ~75.00
New poly spring bushings if needed ~40.00 per set X 2
New front rotors if needed, No Excuses sells them ~40.00 each
New front and rear brake pads
Fluids, especially the auto, need filter kit for a Chrysler 727
Cap, rotor, plugs. The engine times off number 8, should be at 0 for smog, might want to take it back a little
New front wheel bearings if needed, do the rear, Timken Set 10 bearings, you'll need to have the collar pressed off/on
Rear drive shaft U-joints


Quick Fix it List

Pull the front fresh-air vents and vacuum out all the crap from inside the kick panels
Pull the carpet and remove all dirt build up, remove rust scale
Remove the :rainbow: chrome pieces and silicon or weld up the holes
Remove :rainbow: light bar, weld up holes
Install a Ford starter solenoid, run heavy 8 gauge wire from Alt to Solenoid, this will eliminate the factory Amp gauge (number one cause of dash fires), add volt meter


Big Fix List

Pull windshield frame and treat for rust, replace seals
Repair rear body mount
Remove the stacked hockey pucks (I have some 3" BL blocks that can be used, you'll need it with 36")
Fix steering issues caused by 3" BL
Cut and twist front axle, rebuild front perches
Redo front brake lines, and shock mounts

I would also pull the rear axles and at least check the bearings, seeing your rear wheel fly by you on the way to the trail only happens once:eek:

Joe- That's one hell of a list:eek:

I'd better get to work :skull:

Originally posted by Rubicrawler
Joe- That's one hell of a list:eek:

I'd better get to work :skull:

Now get your arse to work :flipoff2:

CHRIST!
That's Joe for you. The first thing he had me do when I bought the 64 was pull all the wiring, hard brake lines, gas tanks, etc.

He tore that blue Scout of his apart and never drove it either. Don't fall into his trap! Remember. He's :vader2: ... and :smokin: ... and most of all he's :rainbow:

Originally posted by jdjanda

Tune Up List

New poly body mounts ~75.00
New poly spring bushings if needed ~40.00 per set X 2
New front rotors if needed, No Excuses sells them ~40.00

Man you guys pay too much.
Poly body Bushings = $50
Poly Body Lift = $71
Poly Spring Bushings = 25 per axle

Big Fix List

Fix steering issues caused by 3" BL
Cut and twist front axle, rebuild front perches
Redo front brake lines, and shock mounts

Borgeson Steering conversion = $150 (joints and shaft)
Steel braided extended brake lines = $105 (for POR members)
Full set DandC's Long Travel Shock mounts = $100 (front and rear)
Rancho RS9000s = $60 a peice (suggest 9012 or 9009 front, 9008 rear)
Spring Perches = $15 per pair

I think i've got everything in stock if you guys need this stuff fast.

Does the $15 per pair price include the 2in wide perches to fit a rear D60???

Originally posted by REDDMANIAC
Does the $15 per pair price include the 2in wide perches to fit a rear D60???

Every perch that I have seen is set up for 2.75" tubing..you grind to fit if you need bigger. Until Snoopy smacks me down for being wrong, I'd assume that it is for 2.75":flipoff2:

Here's a pic of the beast!

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=463361

I like the one behind it, look's like a sweet rig :D

Originally posted by jdjanda
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=463361

I like the one behind it, look's like a sweet rig :D

Yeah, but I hear that the owner of that one is a real knucklehead:rasta: :flipoff2: :rolleyes:


Ok..back to work I go--->:D

Congrads on the scout, looks really bitchin. one thing you shold check is the wireing. Ive yet to see a scout including my own that doesnt have a ghost or two in the machine. One thing though, i see nary a scratch or dent.?>? :confused:

:eek: That looks like a good decent Scout to start with Mark. I bet Amanda is loving it :D I know when you start on something, it always ends up real clean and done well at the end, so I can't wait to see the finish project.

Snow/DRT- Thanks for the kind words guys :) It's a pretty clean rig with lot's of potential! We'll have this thing ready for the 'Con come Memorial Day fo sho :skull:

Sweetness, I hope to be ready in time for memorial day, Still have to put the lift, locker,cage in. Been looking foward to going back, but the Scout still needs some work. not going to bother with the nerf bars ( doors dont close right anyway :p ) so I hope to see you guys there!;) :bounce: :bounce2:
S.low
C.rawling
O.pens
U.ndiscovered
T.rails

Originally posted by SnowScoutII
not going to bother with the nerf bars ( doors dont close right anyway :p ) rails

Take the time to do the nerfs BEFORE any serious runs. You'll be very happy you did. All it takes is one hungry rock to take a bite out of your rocker and take the door with it. Beware of the Gate Keeper! It loves naked rockers:)

Hope to see you on the 'Con!

Originally posted by Rubicrawler
Snow/DRT- Thanks for the kind words guys :) It's a pretty clean rig with lot's of potential! We'll have this thing ready for the 'Con come Memorial Day fo sho :skull:

Damm, I can't go :crybaby2: :crybaby2:

Mark, I set aside the parts in the garage, I only found 4 of the 3" BL's, my manual, tube bender, flare kit. Call Jill at let her know if your going to stop by. She's in San Jo today.

Joe

Originally posted by jdjanda


Damm, I can't go :crybaby2: :crybaby2:

Mark, I set aside the parts in the garage, I only found 4 of the 3" BL's, my manual, tube bender, flare kit. Call Jill at let her know if your going to stop by. She's in San Jo today.

Joe

Thanks! I think I can make it tomorrow. I'll call first. I also need to talk to you about building your spare front end or going WIDER!

owner of the great white tank speaking. Thanks for all the tips. Can't wait to get it ready for the trail.:D

Originally posted by Rubicrawler


Take the time to do the nerfs BEFORE any serious runs. You'll be very happy you did. All it takes is one hungry rock to take a bite out of your rocker and take the door with it. Beware of the Gate Keeper! It loves naked rockers:)

Hope to see you on the 'Con!

Or, skip the nerf bars, and just add some box tubing under the rockers. These don't stick out along the side, allowing me to clear tight spots, but they are very strong, and protect the rockers very well. Also, very unobtrusive, and you CAN'T get hung up on them. Mine have been on for 3 years now, and they make a huge difference. Not just in not denting the rockers, but because they are a smooth, flat bottom surface, I can drag them across rocks, and stumps, and there is nothing to hang me up. Just a nice smooth slide.

http://www.ihssii.org/Hooper/Images-Technical/RockerGuards.jpg

How is that pic taken in relation to the vehicle? I see the slider, but can't tell what else I'm looking at and from what angle??

Originally posted by Hooper


Or, skip the nerf bars, and just add some box tubing under the rockers. These don't stick out along the side, allowing me to clear tight spots, but they are very strong, and protect the rockers very well. Also, very unobtrusive, and you CAN'T get hung up on them. Mine have been on for 3 years now, and they make a huge difference. Not just in not denting the rockers, but because they are a smooth, flat bottom surface, I can drag them across rocks, and stumps, and there is nothing to hang me up. Just a nice smooth slide.

http://www.ihssii.org/Hooper/Images-Technical/RockerGuards.jpg

Passenger rocker, trailing edge, just in front of the rear tire, looking forward. The large roundish shape is the end of the stock rocker. Below that is a vertical flange. That stock flange eventually angles back under the truck after extending toward the ground for about an inch.

Hoop, does that flat stock hold in a lot of mud and water? I used 1" x 2" just enough stick out to provide protection. I need to move up to 3/16 or 1/4 wall, my sliders have seen better days.

Originally posted by jdjanda
Hoop, does that flat stock hold in a lot of mud and water? I used 1" x 2" just enough stick out to provide protection. I need to move up to 3/16 or 1/4 wall, my sliders have seen better days.

I can get away with taller flat stock because mine is an SSII. My flat stock is 6 inches tall (I think). But, it is stitch welded along the seam with the box tubing, and open on both ends, so the water washes right out. It rides very close to the sheetmetal at the top edge, but it does get mud in it. I usually pressure wash my truck after mudding, and there is enough room to pressure wash the mud out. Bigger problem are the small pebbles that get in there. They don't wash out very easily. But, they get trapped between the plate and the box tubing, and as I drive over obstacles and get a little flex, they get pulverized in there, so it has not been a problem.


I have dropped down HARD on these (sometimes there is not enough traction to prevent THE SLIDE) , and have not so much as dimpled the box tubing. They really spread the impact over a large area. I really like them. I often just plant them on or against a rock/log and pivot around them. It was inexpensive, and unobtrusive. They are not as fancy as the rock sliders some vendors offer, but these do the job for me.

I was planning on building my own anyway, dont think theres many places that sell scout nerf bars let alone being strong enough. The box tube under the rockers sounds like a great Idea but.... what about the upper sides of the panel? The prob with the scouts is the doors stick out the furthest at the middle. I dont mind that my doors dont close right, and the only straight thing left is the hood but I need a little more protection the the rockers. I have a problemn of having more ballz then the truck has> adjustable nerf bars??

Originally posted by SnowScoutII
I was planning on building my own anyway, dont think theres many places that sell scout nerf bars let alone being strong enough. The box tube under the rockers sounds like a great Idea but.... what about the upper sides of the panel? The prob with the scouts is the doors stick out the furthest at the middle. I dont mind that my doors dont close right, and the only straight thing left is the hood but I need a little more protection the the rockers. I have a problemn of having more ballz then the truck has> adjustable nerf bars??

Weld the doors closed and climb out the window, then just run a sheet of 1/4" steel up the bottom edge of the doors. ;)

There are scout II nerf bars out there, plenty strong. Damian makes them, and I think Fleck also. They would help protect your doors because they stick out to the side some. I prefer the low profile of mine because they don't stick out, but then, I don't have doors to worry about.

You could always convert to the dark side and make an SSII out of it!! Ditch those heavy doors and that bulky hard top. Go bikini all year long!! :D