The head mech. at my shop is looking for a driveshaft for his wrangler. The transfercase output has been raised 6 inches by modifying the motor and tranny mounts, xmembers. He is also doing a springover with AAL's. When he measured his driveshaft angle after all that lift, he calculated he is going to need a shaft capable of running 40 deg at compression to 64ish deg at full droop. he has heard/read of using tractor PTO shafts to accomplish such a task, does anyone have any information for doing this swap? he has a flange adaptor for the t-case that allows you to basically mount anything to it. He dosent have the money for a Woods or hi-angle shaft, so thats why he is looking to do this. Any info/links on this swap would be great.

I have heard there is a guy who won UROC last year running john deere running gear... is this true, does any one have the rigs specs?

:flipoff2: wheres his shop at???? just wondering so i can avoid it. have him put all the shit back how it was and buy a subaru:flipoff2:

The transfercase output has been raised 6 inches by modifying the motor and tranny mounts, xmembers.\

awesome

:laughing:

You can get a shaft that'll run at those angles, but it won't handle the torque or the rpms... tell him that belly clearance only amounts to so much and that he needs to seriously re-evaluate his wheelbase.

He needs to get a SYE, stretch his wheelbase, possible get a HP60 rear, and go with a CV style rear driveshaft. If he can't afford a $300 Tom Woods driveshaft, then he can't afford any of what I just listed, but that doesn't change the cold hard truth. I'd bet someone could half-ass some rear driveshaft, but it's going to vibrate, bind, and ultimately break.

Tom Woods sells the high angle drivelines doesnt he? But only made for like 2k hours of run time...

Some tractor double carden joints will operate up to about 70 degrees but they are designed to operate at pto rpm (540 to 1050 rpm) and are made from cast iron not automotive grade forged steel. I bought one many years ago for my 6x6 project and every driveshaft shop I asked flat refused to make up a driveshaft for me rightly claiming it would explode at higher rpm.
Bill.

If he's a good fab guy, and I'm guessing he's not, he could use D60 axle shaft yokes welded to drive shaft tubes. Fab up a welded flange with another D60 yoke to bolt to the t-case output flange. That would offer the angle needed.........Just thinking 'outside the box' not saying it would definatly work.

He needs to get a SYE, stretch his wheelbase, possible get a HP60 rear, and go with a CV style rear driveshaft. If he can't afford a $300 Tom Woods driveshaft, then he can't afford any of what I just listed, but that doesn't change the cold hard truth. I'd bet someone could half-ass some rear driveshaft, but it's going to vibrate, bind, and ultimately break.

2X You might also look into controlling your droop with a strap or something if it's that bad. Unless you are going to be Jeepspeeding, you don't need it. You can control the droop and still get full flex.