ok, so with the extended wheelbase(CJ's in the rear, the old rears up front) and still spring over the axles, i've come across a couple of the normal problems....
-drive shafts-- too short; i want to avoid getting spacers, but if i have to keep them, spacers will work.
-brakelines--what do i do for them? i've got M/L's in adition with the SPOA and longer WB.
-e-brake-- the friggin line is way too short to reach the lever up to the body...keep in mind i've got a 2" body lift on the way.

i forgot to mention that im currently unemployed, but start a new job next week...for the mean time, consider me being really cheap. little tips and tricks are very helpful. im kinda looking upon the lines of stock parts for other vehicles that work good for my setup only cuz they're cheaper than buying "real" parts.
right now the driveshafts are my biggest concern...like are there any spline extentions for the stock drive shafts? i've looked all over the place, and can't find jack shit.
thanks a whole shitload for your help and advice dude's.
-justin

For driveshafts, I ran spacers for years, and still do in the rear. They aren't the best setup, but if you are in a pinch. I have Y'J's with missing links in the rear and am able to get by with the spacers. When I get the cash and quit changing stuff around, I'll get a new, custom rear shaft. For the front, you can use spacers, or make a driveshaft out of 2" receiver tubing for pretty cheap.

You can order extended brakelines from just about anyone. The rears are near the center of the axle, so they don't have to extend as much as the fronts. If I remember right, I have 16" lines in the rear and 20" lines in the front.

Not sure what vehicles are compatable, but I can give you some info on new stuff:

Driveshafts: You can run a spacer, or two if nessessary, up front and be okay. The angle isn't too bad. Start with the spacer on the t-case side rather than the diff side as this will help you clear the crossmember when it is fully drooped. For the rear, spacers aren't the best due to the angle. Run some extended slip yokes. Trail Tough has both 1" and 2" extended yokes.

Brakelines: Not sure which stock vehicles match, but I got mine from Trail Tough for about $20 a piece.

E-brake: Don't know. :confused:

Hope this helps a little bit. ~Steve

I think you can use honda acorrd to extend the lines I no I ve seen somebody post it before. as far as your shaft I might have a spacer or two for ya or we can look at lengthening your shafts at the meeting on the 13th bring me your overall dimension flange to flange later Scott

thanks a shitload, and please keep the info coming. hey scott, i appreciate that very much...how much $ do you want for the spacers? im gonna run out to the scrapyard right now and look around some more for the brakelines...what really intrests me are the ones on old motorcycles...maybe i can fab something out of a couple of those.
has anyone encountered the problem i'm having with the e-brake? it looks like i could cut one of the line brackets, but the only problem with that is is that it looks like a full droop, the brake would pull and either take out the handle, or activate the e-brake itself. eventually, i want the spidertrax e-brake kit, but untill i can afford that, i need something to hold me.
thanks a bunch guys
-justin

The bracket that mounts to the bed that your ebake cable goes
through either drop it down or or eliminate it I just pulled the cable out of the hoop and installed a spring to keep it out of the way

Do what Rockrat said for the E-brake, Thats what I did.
Buy spacers or extented slip yokes for the drivelines.
AND....Don't trust junkyard brake lines if you have a daily driver!!! If your going to spend any money, buy new brake lines. After all your life and the people's lives around you count on your brakes working. Don't skimp on the important stuff.;)

BTW, i flexed out the sammi today with the wheel lift of the tow truck that i drive, and the front measured a 28" off the ground and the rear measured 29". it still needs some more stuff in it like me, the roll cage, and the whole front clip, but personally, i think it's a good start.
if i get around to workin on the sammi tomorrow, i'll give the e-brake thing a shot and let you know how it turns out.
as far as the brake lines go, i think i'll follow zuk88's advice...only cuz i was thinkin the same thing today; even though it's gonna be a trailer queen, i still kinda care about myself as well as others around....
who has the best brakelines for my buck?
thanks guys
-justin

Raybestos part # (front) BH38541, (rear) BH38688 or NAPA part # (front) 38541, (rear) 38688. The fronts are about 20" long and the rears about 23" long. these are some # from Az website atleast gives ya # to for pricing