I decided instead of getting leaf springs and cutting them, in order to help clear the 37's, I called "MY" local fab shop and they are gonna make some "blocks" up for me.

I'm gonna have 8- 2.5"x5"x1/2" blocks cut , and have 4- 2.5"x5"x1/4" blocks with 3/8" holes drilled in the centers of all of them. This gives me a lot of lift options, but better than using standard lift blocks.

Lift options with this method:

1/4", 1/2", 3/4", 1", 1-1/4"

..........even though I don't think I would ever mess with a 1/4" I may be able to use those one's to LEVEL my suspension out. Since we all know ScoutII's need leveling. or so it seems....

.......I was also considering having them make me some 3/8" thick one's, any opinions of what thicknesses I shoud go with??

Are you going to use the blocks at all four corners?

Have you looked into Add a Leafs? Gave me the extra room in back.

Joe

Originally posted by jdjanda
Are you going to use the blocks at all four corners?

Have you looked into Add a Leafs? Gave me the extra room in back.

Joe

I'm trying not to think of them as "Blocks" since they will be bolted together with the springs. And basically with the thicknesses I'm considering it would be like adding a leaf spring or two, but without the stiffer ride. Plus, If I do use more than one I can weld them togther since the will be made of mild steel.

PS: I don't like Add-A-Leafs:rainbow:

Would the 3/8 give you a little more versitility when stacking? If you stacked two you would have 3/4. It might be a little more stable than stacking a 1/2 and a 1/4. Plus if you used them for leveling, that extra 1/8 might make the difference. Just my .02.

Cliff - BTDT. When I did the rear SOA on Tigger I didn't get enough lift (only 3" or so) so I cut a piece of 2"x.250 strap, drilled the center pin hole, and bolted it into the leaf spring pack on the underside and away I went.

I also added the bottom leaf I'd pulled back in, and ended up with a net lift of 3.5" over stock with the rear SOA.

No idea how good of an idea it is, how safe it is, etc.

I only did it in the rear, and it can't be any worse than a lift block.

Then again, big thick add-a-leaves really aren't much different either..

I would at least make sure the strap is NO LONGER than your spring perch. You DO NOT want the steel to be flexing it all or you'll end up breaking it.

Do you really need more lift than an SOA will give you?

If you end up going "traditional" high-steer then the less lift in your spring perches and thickness of the spring pack, the better your clearance will be for your draglink and/or tie-rod.

Originally posted by tsm1mt


Do you really need more lift than an SOA will give you?

If you end up going "traditional" high-steer then the less lift in your spring perches and thickness of the spring pack, the better your clearance will be for your draglink and/or tie-rod.

ALL very good info. I will measure my spring perch to be sure.

I don't know if I'll even need any more lift, but what I don't want to do is; get around to the SOA (THIS WEEKEND BABY!!) and then need another 1-1/4" lift and be screwed, and have it sit for another week. :(

What I'm tring to do is Cover all my bases. If I don't need them I'll be happy, but I think I'll want to go at least another 1" or 1-1/2" higher. the rest will be J.I.C (just in case)

BTW, I remeasured my spring perches....4-1/4"....THANKS ;)

Thanks for the input guys, I'm off to put my order in. :D

This is what I ordered.

4~ 1" thick pieces
4~ 1/4" thick pieces
8~ 1/2" thick pieces

I think that should give me enough variety.


Oh, and I decided to go with an ADDITIONAL size instead of picking a "better" size since my father in law is picking up the tab :D :beer:

Well I picked up my lift "blocks" today (I hate calling them that...) I think I could have went without the 1/4"-ers but what the hell....

Here's what they look like...

I also got my U-bolts & spring plates from parts mike today. Now all I need is my tires. I *think* they will arrive thursday or friday. :crossingfingers:

Just a tip - if you were considering just sticking with 5/16" center pins and you do opt to use those spacer blocks...

*DO* upgrade to 3/8" center pins.

Just that much more to keep things in place.

I think the U-bolt plates like the ones I built would be a good safety thing, too, helping to keep the springs from shifting at all.

Even better if you could make the "side plates" that sandwich the springs come down, when fully tightened, to just past the top of the perch, but not in contact with the axle tube (thus limiting how much you can torque down the U-bolts).

Spring-shift ==> BAD. :)

Yeah I plan to run some 1/4 "side plates" to help prevent shifting. I thought that might cause some undue stress on the 3/8 (yes I am upgrading) center pin.

I'm running a 2-1/2" spring perch and I had blocks made 2-1/2" wide. So if I did do it that way, I would make the "side plates" come down to the first block.

Good tip for just a little extra stability. ;)