I tried searching and had no luck. I have a set of 3/4 ton K20 front brake rotors for my 14 bolt disc brake conversion. The 14 bolt wheel studs just fall into the rotor stud holes, and there is even a little play when all the way in. Will this pose a problem? If so, what would be an easy fix?

can you drill the hub to accept the studs that fit the rotor?

can you drill the hub to accept the studs that fit the rotor?

I am considering that, but I would like to avoid it if at all possible.

Mine had a little bit of wobble after I turned down the head of the studs to fit in the recesses(to big stock). I just ran it, no issues yet with 4k miles and counting, mostly street driving.

this topic was covered a few days ago. just run them. they will take up most of that slop when you put in all 8.

Alaska 4x4 network
tech articles
25. part numbers used on the freak

Alaska 4x4 network
tech articles
25. part numbers used on the freak

From Alaska 4x4 network, part numbers used on the freak;
9/16 Wheel Stud for rear disc brakes Shucks Part number 7668064 or 6101891

Is Shucks a parts store? We don't have them around here if it is. Do you know what brand the studs were?

I'll be doing the rear disc conversion before long and this would be a great help.

Edit, I just reread the post and found it;
9/16" Wheel Studs for 14 Bolt Disc Conversion Car quest # DOR610-189

Do a search on my name, I posted the part numbers a bit ago for longer 9/16ths studs.


NM #DOR 610-189 Dorman Part number.

From Alaska 4x4 network, part numbers used on the freak;


Is Shucks a parts store? We don't have them around here if it is. Do you know what brand the studs were?

I'll be doing the rear disc conversion before long and this would be a great help.

Edit, I just reread the post and found it;
9/16" Wheel Studs for 14 Bolt Disc Conversion Car quest # DOR610-189


schucks, checker, and Kragen are all the same. check out http://www.partsamerica.com

this topic was covered a few days ago. just run them. they will take up most of that slop when you put in all 8.


Maybe you can explain how inserting 8 studs into 8 holes that have the same clearance will take up the "Slop"? They all will let the rotor move the same amount. As I see it the only way the studs will take up the "Slop" is if the stud holes were not spaced evenly around the bolt pattern but if they are evenly spaced, get the Idea ?

Any other opinions beyond Mr Donahue's here?

As for my 14 bolt disc brake conversion correct or not, I'm using a 1 ton rotor and 1 ton front caliper brackets and calipers. Also since I (even with the bendix, centric technical guide to rotors and drums book resourses) at this point in time haven't been able to find a correct rotor (other than the one ton rotor with the correct stud hole size) with the correct center ID hole: BUT until I do find the correct rotor I've spun these concentric spacer rings on my lathe from a piece of pipe. If anyone is interested in doing this have the rotor and hub in hand to fit them in a precision nature, these parts need tight tolerances, the figures below are for the 1 ton rotor I'm using. The hub should be the same dimention as it's a 14 bolt HUB but YOUR rotor (as there are alot of MFG making them) could be a little different. According to the centric catalog the 3/5T rotor center hole (called hub register in the catalog) Has a 5.130 center hole ID.

What this concentric ring does is keep the rotor from having runout just as when the drum was used IT had a center hole that sat on the HUB REGISTER to control runout - it didn't rely on the studs either. And in other threads I've read about someone saying: on late model trucks no matter what tonnage the truck 1/2, 3/4 or 1 T the slip on rotors which this person was talking about, they also USED a HUB REGISTER. The only difference is this register is on the outer side of the HUB and not the inner as the 14 bolt HUB has:


HUB TO ROTOR SPACER 2 PCS
HUB REGISTER 4.5905
ROTOR REGISTER 5.010
THICKNESS .375 - .500


I hope this info makes it a little clearer in your minds and for those that need punctuation I did my best :flipoff2:

PAE

I called up the local parts store and got 1975 3/4 ton front rotors and loaded calipers. I got the brackets from Greatlakeoffroad and bolted it up. I decided to get longer studs, so I just had the parts store order new ones that are 1/2" longer and put it all together. I didn't notice any major slop that should be a concern. Once together, if there was slop, it is all gone now. The stock studs don't press fit into the drum, there is some slop there, so I would say you're fine. I just wouldn't try and over think it is my advise. I know, it's a safety thing, but I don't see any problems with the set-up I'm running so I'm not worried at all.

I called up the local parts store and got 1975 3/4 ton front rotors and loaded calipers. I got the brackets from Greatlakeoffroad and bolted it up. I decided to get longer studs, so I just had the parts store order new ones that are 1/2" longer and put it all together. I didn't notice any major slop that should be a concern. Once together, if there was slop, it is all gone now. The stock studs don't press fit into the drum, there is some slop there, so I would say you're fine. I just wouldn't try and over think it is my advise. I know, it's a safety thing, but I don't see any problems with the set-up I'm running so I'm not worried at all.

I pretty much have the same setup as you. I did not have any slop at all. I have been running my junk for almost 3.5 years.

HUB TO ROTOR SPACER 2 PCS
HUB REGISTER 4.5905
ROTOR REGISTER 5.010
THICKNESS .375 - .500


I hope this info makes it a little clearer in your minds


PAE

Actually, now I'm more confused than ever!



and for those that need punctuation I did my best :flipoff2:

PAE

Punctuation would be great...:eek: :eek:

What do you not understand

We are trying to make a 3/4T rotor work that (1) does not have the correct ID register hole (2) does not have the correct stud hole ID (3) wasnt designed to fit on the 14 bolt HUB


Did you happen to measure the ID of the stud hole in the drum after you pressed the studs out?

If you did you would NOTE that they are alot closer to the HUB stud hole ID

Enlighten me
Por Favor

PAE

simmer down, Frances.

This swap has been covered ad infinitum, and SOP is to use 3/4t front rotors. Your problem is not common. So quit being snippy and cool out. Sheesh.

Maybe the problem is the rotor? I'm using Raybestos rotors and they are pretty snug.

simmer down, Frances.

This swap has been covered ad infinitum, and SOP is to use 3/4t front rotors. Your problem is not common. So quit being snippy and cool out. Sheesh.

Maybe the problem is the rotor? I'm using Raybestos rotors and they are pretty snug.


SOP IS WRONG SO SAYITH THE PROFESSIONAL BRAKE ENGINEERS.

And for your information im not being snippy you havent seen snippy YET!

PAE

SOP IS WRONG SO SAYITH THE PROFESSIONAL BRAKE ENGINEERS.

And for your information im not being snippy you havent seen snippy YET!

PAE


your a tool.

I really didn't know there were so many Lemmings here, careful you dont stray off the trail.

What do you not understand

We are trying to make a 3/4T rotor work that (1) does not have the correct ID register hole (2) does not have the correct stud hole ID (3) wasnt designed to fit on the 14 bolt HUB


Did you happen to measure the ID of the stud hole in the drum after you pressed the studs out?

If you did you would NOTE that they are alot closer to the HUB stud hole ID

Enlighten me
Por Favor

PAE

That was much easier to read than the last post! I almost passed out trying to read the entire paragraph as a sentence! :D

As for the rotors/hub/stud fitment I haven't tried it myself yet so that's why I'm here reading this thread. :cool2:

simmer down, Frances.

This swap has been covered ad infinitum, and SOP is to use 3/4t front rotors. Your problem is not common. So quit being snippy and cool out. Sheesh.

Maybe the problem is the rotor? I'm using Raybestos rotors and they are pretty snug.

Ditto... the Raybestos Rotors were $29 and a perfect fit. I just installed them today.

AW

Ditto... the Raybestos Rotors were $29 and a perfect fit. I just installed them today.

AW


What size center hole do your raybestos rotors have? And what size stud holes to they have ?

PAE

What size center hole do your raybestos rotors have? And what size stud holes to they have ?

PAE


I wish I could answer that for you, but I wont be at the shop till later today. Ill measure then.

AW

I wish I could answer that for you, but I wont be at the shop till later today. Ill measure then.

AW

While your there (that is if you want) measure the drum's Hub register hole (center hole) and the stud holes in the drums to compare.

I kept my drums intact and didn't press the studs out (in case this brake swap didn't work, I wanted to be able to put it back to stock.

thanks for the info

PAE

your a tool.

you should have typed "You're a tool"

He just doesn't see that there is no where for the rotor to go once clamped in place by the studs and lugnuts.
that a register will keep it centered better, but really doesn't fawking matter at all.
there will be some play in it unless he makes it a press fit, and then the thermal forces would mess it up.

cost per result, the 1 ton stuff is a loser. better off to adapt a floating piston quality caliper that uses an easy to make bolt on bracket

he doesn't realize that all engineers do is provide a market for specialty tool manufacturers.

I don't think the rotor inside diameter is that important either.
The drum needs to be tight on the hub register because the brake shoes are inside and the drum needs to turn true where as the rotor is the inside part and the caliper/pads are on the outside so if the rotor does happen to be off center by a few thousands it shouldn't have any ill effects other than it might cause a vibration.

Also the rotor doesn't actually support any weight and that is the actual function of the hub register. (The hub register is supposed to fit snug in the wheel itself to support the weight of the vehicle so the lug bolt don't have to.)
Almost all aftermarket wheels don't fit snug on the hub register so that kind of negates the function of it anyway.

That being said, I think the slop in the lug studs might weaken the studs themselves slightly just because they now are without the support of the drum/rotor. I don't think it will be enough to worry about though.

I'l be using factory rotors myself. At least until they wear out.

Why not drill the hub out to match the ID of the rotor holes? Is there a stud with the correct length/dia for this?

I don't think the rotor inside diameter is that important either.
The drum needs to be tight on the hub register because the brake shoes are inside and the drum needs to turn true where as the rotor is the inside part and the caliper/pads are on the outside so if the rotor does happen to be off center by a few thousands it shouldn't have any ill effects other than it might cause a vibration.

Also the rotor doesn't actually support any weight and that is the actual function of the hub register. (The hub register is supposed to fit snug in the wheel itself to support the weight of the vehicle so the lug bolt don't have to.)
Almost all aftermarket wheels don't fit snug on the hub register so that kind of negates the function of it anyway.

That being said, I think the slop in the lug studs might weaken the studs themselves slightly just because they now are without the support of the drum/rotor. I don't think it will be enough to worry about though.

I'l be using factory rotors myself. At least until they wear out.

Why not drill the hub out to match the ID of the rotor holes? Is there a stud with the correct length/dia for this?


No not from my research and all the phone calls ive made I have all the bendix brake resource books that the parts counter guys do and more and also have the centric rotor / drum tech book that has all the rotor specs and im still looking thru it for a correct close match for the 14B using a 3/4T rotor, or at least. Im trying to stay with the most common brackets using the pin style calipers. One reason is I still have a pair and have another truck I will put them on If i find the correct ROTOR. and you are correct in stating that the rotor does not support any weight, the hub supports all the weight thru the wheel studs. One of the only problems I can think of in drilling out the hubs out to the size of the rotor stud hole is the only stud I can find to use with that would be 5/8 18, and then you would have mismatched stud sizes front to rear.

Still in negotiations with 2 rotor MFG's to mod the 3/4T chevy rotor with just 2 changes in design.

Here is a ? for other chevy wheelers in the know, Was the dually only made in 1 ton? Was it ever made as a 3/4T ? also looking up the part #,s for dodge 3/4T rotor and ford those might have a smaller register hole and or smaller stud hole.

PAE

Here is a ? for other chevy wheelers in the know, Was the dually only made in 1 ton? Was it ever made as a 3/4T ? also looking up the part #,s for dodge 3/4T rotor and ford those might have a smaller register hole and or smaller stud hole.


you mean you cannot find that info in "my research and all the phone calls ive made I have all the bendix brake resource books that the parts counter guys do and more and also have the centric rotor / drum tech book that has all the rotor specs "

Well for the rotors I have, I found that if I use 2 Dorman 610-301 studs on each hub to center the rotor (they have larger shoulder area near the head of the stud that provides a very snug fit) and then finish the job with the regular 610-189 studs, there will be no worries as to whether or not the rotors will move out of center.

you mean you cannot find that info in "my research and all the phone calls ive made I have all the bendix brake resource books that the parts counter guys do and more and also have the centric rotor / drum tech book that has all the rotor specs "

Not as yet i havent been able to I have looked at ford and dodge 3/4T and 1 ton SRW and DRW rotors and the hub holes and stud holes are all about the same size

:(

any suggestions ?

PAE

Well for the rotors I have, I found that if I use 2 Dorman 610-301 studs on each hub to center the rotor (they have larger shoulder area near the head of the stud that provides a very snug fit) and then finish the job with the regular 610-189 studs, there will be no worries as to whether or not the rotors will move out of center.

Why just the 2 610-301 studs? Couldn't you use these for all the studs? Differnt length or somethin?

I just had another idea. :smokin:

How about this, once you get the rotor and hub aligned, (maybe using the above idea or similar), go between the studs and drill the rotor/hub for a "pilot stud" or dowel pin?

Why just the 2 610-301 studs? Couldn't you use these for all the studs? Differnt length or somethin?


The 610-301 studs have little knurl engagement in the hub. For that reason, I felt comfortable using just 2 of those per hub to center the rotor.

Check out this thread.

Be careful of the needle.



http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5271835#post5271835

PAE

PAE,
after thinking about it i feel the way you do about keeping it civil. so i am taking back all the negitive things i said to you. i still dissagree with you, but i will choose to do so more repsectively next time. good luck in your build up.

Devin

I used the search and found the part numbers for these wheel studs. These work perfect with the 14 Bolt Disc Brake Conversion. I have them listed in the picture with part numbers. Hope this helps others.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/aloysius66/1966%20K10/IMG_0422.jpg

I think after 3 1/2 years he may have figured it out by now



post your part numbers in General 4x, they seem to be having problems at the moment

He did.............As well as about 6 other threads

I am doing the disc conversion on a 14 bolt now. This was just to bring it back up with picture of the ones that other members forund to work. These were all the threads that come up with the search function and were helpful to me. When I was looking, I just wanted to see them compared like this as a reference. I also e-mailed the picture to BillaVista. Thanks for all the help from the members!