I got a 90 Chevy 1500 that im doing my SAS on, and heres the progress so far:
Dana 44, 4.10( Dont tell me, i know it wont last)
208 p. drop t-case, installed all linkage
Remade tranny crossmember
all custom leaf spring brackets are made
rear shackle reversal
crossover steering, new knuckles ball joints ring and pinion bearings.
Let me know wat u guys think, its my first SAS build and i think its gonna turn out pretty good!!
http://myspace-384.vo.llnwd.net/00542/48/34/542494384_l.jpg

looks nice should post up some build up pics so some people can get ideas, something i wouldve liked when i was building my first.

-Thomas

Almost done just got to mount the axle in, get a heim joint for the steering and extend the front driveline.... http://file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/debra/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/2006-03%20(Mar)/IMG_1429.JPG

the one thing i will suggest is dont use a hiem for the steering. i just cut mine off my drag link yesterday because it was wasted. if you havent bored the taper out yet, dont. a DRE is a much better choice.

looks good, with those tires your d44 should be fine.

Whats a DRE haven't heard of that pic maybe explain, yay the 44 should be fine, i had it on another truck with a 350 4 sp manual with 37 13.50/15 a drove that SOB throguh the ground with only breaking u-joint caps so my axles should be fine... heres some build up pics...
http://myspace-842.vo.llnwd.net/00605/24/80/605900842_l.jpg

And another...
http://myspace-086.vo.llnwd.net/00605/68/03/605903086_l.jpg
Me welding my shit up..
http://myspace-904.vo.llnwd.net/00605/40/97/605907904_l.jpg
And heres the inside after cutting out for the 208 case shift, C/B and the new cover for the driver side not to bad...
http://myspace-615.vo.llnwd.net/00605/51/64/605914615_l.jpg

completed front axle Ring/Pinion,ball joints, hubs, bearings should hold up for a little bit...
http://myspace-685.vo.llnwd.net/00605/58/61/605941685_l.jpg

http://myspace-500.vo.llnwd.net/00605/00/54/605944500_l.jpg

Nice and smooth frame and a clear path for the driveline!!
http://myspace-520.vo.llnwd.net/00606/02/54/606394520_l.jpg

Should be up and runnin to go play in the new snow by this weekend!!

the one thing i will suggest is dont use a hiem for the steering. i just cut mine off my drag link yesterday because it was wasted. if you havent bored the taper out yet, dont. a DRE is a much better choice.

Did you use a high quality joint? We have heims on one of our street trucks. It has almost 25000 miles on it, and the joints are as tight as the day we bought them.

Also I think you mean TRE (Tie Rod End) not DRE.

whoops, i meant a DLE as in a Drag Link End. they have the same taper as a TRE (Tie Rod End), but use a bigger shaft. i will be drilling out my 3/4 heim joint holes for that taper, so i can go to a factory 1 ton DLE. sorry about the confusion.

Did you use a high quality joint? We have heims on one of our street trucks. It has almost 25000 miles on it, and the joints are as tight as the day we bought them.

Also I think you mean TRE (Tie Rod End) not DRE.


actually, my entire cross over setup was more or less a hand me down, so the joints were used already. but the main reason i am changing it to DLE is because the heims only had single shear support.

So far i custom built the drag link out of a ford y link steer, and put a chevy 1 ton DLE on the knuckle side and was going to use the 3/4 heim joint on the other since my stock pitman arm doesn't swivvel...

DRE's are for drag rods.:smokin: I thought everyone knew that.

Hey where do i get a 3/4" heim joint at, anybody?!

So far i custom built the drag link out of a ford y link steer, and put a chevy 1 ton DLE on the knuckle side and was going to use the 3/4 heim joint on the other since my stock pitman arm doesn't swivvel...


the stock box is a cross over already right? not push-pull?

Yes the box is a crossover but with the IFS it was connected to an idler arm on the passenger side and used two link bars to connect to the IFS knuckles. So the pitman arm doesn't have a TRE so I had to use a heim joint or spend money on a pitman arm but since it dropped for enough done i just picked up the heim joint.

then i would say run it till you break it, then come up with something else. lots of people have had success with heims, but several have also had problems. my particular application would be hard on the heims because my steering arm on my D60 had a single shear support with a good amount of angle. add to that the fact that one of those heims was shot, and you see why i am converting back to DLE's.

looks good man, I am about to start on mine this weekend....finally got all my parts together.......also using a dana 44, but got a np241 with the vss to go in......:D , but anyways ill be starting up a tread as well with pics as it goes along....i cant wait

YA thats wat ill do but i dont plan on running anything bigger than 36's im just looking for a lil more flex and decent sized meats to get me through the mud and with my angle not being to bad i dont think she'll snap but i have been wrong before, ill put up pics tomorrow when i start work on it again dam thing should been done tomorrow but thats what i said last weekend.:shaking:

lets see the progress..........

Well got her done tonite, complete SAS Dana 44 4.10's 4 inch brackets, 3 inch shackles, 5 inch springs, no locker yet til i get some better axles, here are some pics....
http://myspace-029.vo.llnwd.net/00613/92/05/613405029_l.jpg
http://myspace-005.vo.llnwd.net/00613/50/06/613416005_l.jpg
http://myspace-362.vo.llnwd.net/00614/26/34/614024362_l.jpg
http://myspace-954.vo.llnwd.net/00614/45/95/614025954_l.jpg
http://myspace-687.vo.llnwd.net/00614/78/67/614027687_l.jpg
http://myspace-265.vo.llnwd.net/00614/56/29/614029265_l.jpg
http://myspace-849.vo.llnwd.net/00614/94/80/614030849_l.jpg

So wat u guys think, do u want more pics?!

How does it ride? Where in the AV are you?

Looks good. I just finished my sas on my 94 chev last weekend. What front drive shaft are you using? Is it out of a 73-87 truck or did you have it made?

I used a driveline out of a 88 blazer double u-joint and had to extend it by 3 inches, came out pretty good.... going up to tahoe today to do some snowboarding and wheeling... But will be back monday to do the shackel reversal and move my rear shock mounts to the top of the axle...

I'm by no means an expert, but it sure seems like the front bracket represents a pretty long moment arm (6+ inches) centered around the attaching welds on the frame. It seems like you might have a fatigue problem at the welds in time.

can you post a picture and some info on your knuckles? Where did you find a dana 44 that had flat top knuckles? Also, are those bolts that are holding the steering arm to the knuckle?

the easy pitman arm to use for an SAS swap is the 78-79 ford f-150 pitman arm, its easy to get and the 4" drop works very well in this application.

hey, i really like the way you made the front crossmember tuck up into the frame. i see entirely too many people do SAS's and the front crossmember is about 8 - 12 inches below the bottom of the bumper. GOOD WORK!! how does it flex? you should definately send in some pics of that.

i'm also in the process of my first SAS, i'm doing it on a 1st gen s-10 blazer. i'tll eventually have dana 44's front and rear, and 37" tires, fully locked.

Good Job, not bad for a first SAS.

You are probably going to do this, but it looks like your u-bolts are not long enough. If so do yourself a favor and get new longer ones. For your safty and those around you on the road.

got my axle built today for my sas, goes in next week....got a question for ya..what front springs are you using?? I am planning on using the stock rear springs from a 88 blazer, they are 52in springs.

I see the front crossmember being a problem. It looks like a 6" lever that is just welded to the bottom of he frame rail. IMO I would rethink that and build one that is more structurally fortified. An example would be something like the ORU brackets which bolt through the bottom and sides of the chassis, and then then take it a step further by adding a crossmember to tie them together.

Also, it looks like your front shackle is angled forward. If it is, I would try moving the rear mounts on the front springs so that the shackle is angled towards the rear of the truck. A forward angle gives a rough ride and very little to no droop.

Well shit went up to tahoe had a blast flexes pretty good, great steering and brakes, but i just blew the 3rd and 4th gear out of the 700r4 and need a new one or it to be repaired can anyone help me!!!!!!!

If you pull it got a buddy that will rebuild completely (minus converter) for I believe $500 with all new parts. Never once had a problem with his trannies, he build's them for a living but also does them on the side.

Axis: the spring perches are not just on the bottom they are c-notched up the side of the frame, welded inside and out, with a crossmember and 4 3/4' straps to help from not moving side to side. I know got to put longer u-bolts in, I used 43 inch springs, would have liked to use 52's but didn't have any lying around, and yes the shackle's are a little bit forward and I would now change my springs to atleast 47's so that i could get more flex... Here r some tahoe proser pics:

http://myspace-443.vo.llnwd.net/00626/34/48/626828443_l.jpg

http://myspace-081.vo.llnwd.net/00626/18/09/626829081_l.jpg
It was so nasty up there with a the rain, half snow half slush, couldn't go anywhere with 35's til i lowered them down to 5 lbs.
http://myspace-240.vo.llnwd.net/00626/04/20/626830240_l.jpg

http://myspace-474.vo.llnwd.net/00626/47/47/626867474_l.jpg

http://myspace-569.vo.llnwd.net/00626/96/59/626869569_l.jpg

http://myspace-586.vo.llnwd.net/00626/68/51/626871586_l.jpg

http://myspace-741.vo.llnwd.net/00626/14/75/626875741_l.jpg

looks like some fun

i have a 1990 chevy pickup and it already has the straight axle conversion but i was wondering why the front leaf spring at so much of an angle here re some pics any help would be great thanks

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i176/kenny7231/e4cbed0a.jpg
can u tell me what kind of springs u used??? how much lift do u have??/

i have a 1990 chevy pickup and it already has the straight axle conversion but i was wondering why the front leaf spring at so much of an angle here re some pics any help would be great thanks

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i176/kenny7231/e4cbed0a.jpg
can u tell me what kind of springs u used??? how much lift do u have??/
Bring the front hanger down, or the rear hanger up. Get them level, and your problem will be fixed. Your spring perches should be much closer to level.

Guys i got a problem how do i hook up my cable 208 to my 700r4 computer can i get a 241speedo plug that will fit? I think i may have blew up my tranny because i didn't have the speedo sensor connected to my t-case pleaze help!! Any ideas, do they make a 208 with a electronic speedo sensor?!

Bring the front hanger down, or the rear hanger up. Get them level, and your problem will be fixed. Your spring perches should be much closer to level.
u talking bout the rear hanger on the front springs huh thanks for ur help the angle should be decreased huh thanks u know where i can get a new front hanger??

u talking bout the rear hanger on the front springs huh thanks for ur help the angle should be decreased huh thanks u know where i can get a new front hanger??


dont hijack this thread. ask these questions in the thread you already started.

dont hijack this thread. ask these questions in the thread you already started.
http://www.fireball20xl.com/stfu.jpg

I'm by no means an expert, but it sure seems like the front bracket represents a pretty long moment arm (6+ inches) centered around the attaching welds on the frame. It seems like you might have a fatigue problem at the welds in time.


I'd be more worried about the shearing forces applied when front tires impact objects. But if you look close seems to me he has some cross bracing to help limit fatigue.

i have a 1990 chevy pickup and it already has the straight axle conversion but i was wondering why the front leaf spring at so much of an angle here re some pics any help would be great thanks

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i176/kenny7231/e4cbed0a.jpg
can u tell me what kind of springs u used??? how much lift do u have??/

Holy Crap. How's the bump steer??? That draglink angle is hideous!

http://myspace-500.vo.llnwd.net/00605/00/54/605944500_l.jpg

I say again, it looks like you have regular bolts holding that steering arm in....please prove me wrong. and what kind of spacer is that for the steering arm? What truck did this axle come out of?

dude that looks like a pside drop dana 44 out of a chevy flipped over.

it does look like a flipped over chevy d44. yikes!

no, they never made electro 208's. ge a np241 out of a 90-91 blazer or 1/2ton burban, they are electric

Wow u guys are kidding right!! Its a chevy Dana 44 wow is it really that hard to notice it?!:shaking:

Ya'll are fawkin stupid. Think before you talk. This is kind of shit is really getting annoying...

silversas13 has a chevy D44. It's not flipped over. It's normal. It's fine.

kenny7231 has a 94-01 DODGE d44. It's not flipped over. It's a POS axle. It's not fine. I have a Ram. I'd know. I have gone thru hubs galore w/ just 33's.

Now quit trying to be the super-savvy guys who notices all the little shit that isn't even there. Thank you.

Wouldn't the dodge axle have the center disconnect on the passenger side axle tube? Looks like a 78-79 F-150 axle with the c-bushing wedges removed and some wild spring perches welded on.

Wouldn't the dodge axle have the center disconnect on the passenger side axle tube? Looks like a 78-79 F-150 axle with the c-bushing wedges removed and some wild spring perches welded on.
definitely not a 78-79 ford 44. there is no axle tube underneath the C-bushing. if you tried to gring it off, you would go all the way through it. it is hollow all the way through. if it was a ford, it would have to be early 70's to 77. but my guess is American is right.

Wouldn't the dodge axle have the center disconnect on the passenger side axle tube? Looks like a 78-79 F-150 axle with the c-bushing wedges removed and some wild spring perches welded on.NO

Ya'll are fawkin stupid. Think before you talk. This is kind of shit is really getting annoying...

silversas13 has a chevy D44. It's not flipped over. It's normal. It's fine.

kenny7231 has a 94-01 DODGE d44. It's not flipped over. It's a POS axle. It's not fine. I have a Ram. I'd know. I have gone thru hubs galore w/ just 33's.

Now quit trying to be the super-savvy guys who notices all the little shit that isn't even there. Thank you.


since when do Dana 44s in newer Dodges have hubs? aren't they CAD?

Nice job on the SAS. Looks good. Did you add a track bar?

I also blew out my tranny after a SAS. It probably was the 37" tires!

http://myspace-086.vo.llnwd.net/00605/68/03/605903086_l.jpg
http://myspace-520.vo.llnwd.net/00606/02/54/606394520_l.jpg


I hate to be the one who breaks this to everyone but this crossmember is, well junk. I know why you did what you did but these welds will eventually fatigue and, well it wont be pretty when that happens. If you are going to keep that set up, I think you need to gusset them on both the outside and inside.

since when do Dana 44s in newer Dodges have hubs? aren't they CAD?
A HUB... not a lockout... jackass :smokin:

On a CAD axles, the hub is the unitized bearing assembly

(if you can't tell, this thread is making me very bitter)

I already fixed the one side of the crossmember just like the other one, gussets on both sides on the sides, should be strong enough...

Ya'll are fawkin stupid. Think before you talk. This is kind of shit is really getting annoying... silversas13 has a chevy D44. It's not flipped over. It's normal. It's fine.

I may be ignorant, but what year Chevy D44 is a driver side drop like the picture above. The lettering on the shock suggests that the photo hasn't been flipped. I've only seen passenger side drop Chevy D44s. That's probably why people are curious. I mean, what kind of dumbass would flip the Chevy D44 over and expect it to live long. I think that's what people are trying to figure out. Is there an explanation or is this guy a dumbass? That's all. --Super Savy Guy

Dude get the fawk off my thread!! U r seriously retarded how can u tell that that dana is a driver side drop, dude your piss me off, look at my fawkin truk does it look like a driver drop, errr that's why i swapped t-cases too!!! Come over here i need to bich slap some sense into u!!!

I may be ignorant, but what year Chevy D44 is a driver side drop like the picture above. The lettering on the shock suggests that the photo hasn't been flipped. I've only seen passenger side drop Chevy D44s. That's probably why people are curious. I mean, what kind of dumbass would flip the Chevy D44 over and expect it to live long. I think that's what people are trying to figure out. Is there an explanation or is this guy a dumbass? That's all. --Super Savy Guy


Hey genius look at the picture above and you will notice he put a passenger drop t-case in! quit bein a dumb ass!

I may be ignorant, but what year Chevy D44 is a driver side drop like the picture above. The lettering on the shock suggests that the photo hasn't been flipped. I've only seen passenger side drop Chevy D44s. That's probably why people are curious. I mean, what kind of dumbass would flip the Chevy D44 over and expect it to live long. I think that's what people are trying to figure out. Is there an explanation or is this guy a dumbass? That's all. --Super Savy Guy
Maybe you should realize that that picture of the driver-drop axle is a FUCKING DODGE AXLE!!!!!!!!!!!! Do you not notice the fact that the driver-drop axle is on a DIFFERENT TRUCK than silversas13's? Do you not know how to fucking read?

In the words of my father... "Are you stupid?"

i'll keep up with progress on your rig...looks pretty good...thinking about converting a 2wd 1500 to 4wd using a similar setup to use as a tow vehicle for my '72

Maybe you should realize that that picture of the driver-drop axle is a FUCKING DODGE AXLE!!!!!!!!!!!! Do you not notice the fact that the driver-drop axle is on a DIFFERENT TRUCK than silversas13's? Do you not know how to fucking read? In the words of my father... "Are you stupid?"

That falls into the category of "explanation", I guess. Throw a couple of more "F" bombs for us. I'm sure someone will eventually be impressed.

Dude get the fawk off my thread!! U r seriously retarded how can u tell that that dana is a driver side drop, dude your piss me off, look at my fawkin truk does it look like a driver drop, errr that's why i swapped t-cases too!!! Come over here i need to bich slap some sense into u!!!

It certainly helps if I read the whole post first, instead of bits and piece. Although you certainly don't give a flip, the front still scares me from a weld fatigue standpoint. I'm sure the picture doesn't do the engineering justice. I also commend you for fabbing your own brackets regardless of the design characteristics.

Hey, sweet swap man, i'm going to go with a pass drop 60 in a 94, and i was wondering if you have any more pics of inside the cab, especially of the custom bracket that you used to cover the hole where the old t-case shifter was? Thanks and sweet truck.
Cory

hey silver, can u post some pics of where the front springs mount in the back

That looks really good. I'm just getting all my parts together to do a SAS on my truck. A 91 GMC K2500 i got a dana 44 front and a ff 14 bolt with 4:10's. Im putting in a turbo 350 tranny with a 205 transfercase. Im going to use drop shackles in the rear along with dropping the front hangers down like you did. The truck alrdy has a 6'' IFS lift so i will use the rear suspension but use 4'' leafs in the front. Im doing crossover steering like u did reuseing the drop arm from my IFS. Is there anything u would do differnt or recommend.

I would coil and 4 link the front end for starters i wish i did now, I just should have went to where i wanted it to be first off. But if your running springs run atleast 48" springs so shackles can rotate back, and do a shackel reversal in the rear loose the 4" blocks for stability, shorten the bed and frame by 14" for departure cuz mine hits everything. Do the crossover with the stock p-arm works awesome... Get a Dana 60 or for the 44 get bigger axles with a locker and tires no bigger than 38's with that steerind or differential, that shit will break if you have a heavy foot like me. :flipoff2:

Yea i would love to coil and 4 link the frontend and have a dana 60 and all that good shit but for now im trying to budget build it. I'm glad to hear that the pitman arm worked out i didnt want to spend money on a new one. Im gonna leave the front end open cause i do have a heavy ass foot. Im gonna lock the rear though. im probley gonna run 38-40's at biggest i know im gonna be doing u joints but oh well. Good job killing the IFS.

You might want to use at least 6" front springs for bigger tires. 4" front springs will give you about 7" of lift. 38-40" tires would be too big.

8" and 38's with some flexy 52" custom springs up front works great for me, just had to cut up the inner fender a bit and trim the outer some.

That falls into the category of "explanation", I guess. Throw a couple of more "F" bombs for us. I'm sure someone will eventually be impressed.
Hey, if you retards won't read the damn post, then people are going to get a little annoyed with you. If you can't handle the word FUCK, then add me to your ignore list. Otherwise, fuck fuck fuckity fuck... :flipoff2:

Seriously, it's just a word. It was used for a reason: to emphasize the fact that you needed to go back and read the post, FULLY. And you did. You also admitted to that later. Don't be bitter with me, because of your mistakes... Shhhhhhhhh. :D

Hey, if you retards won't read the damn post, then people are going to get a little annoyed with you. If you can't handle the word FUCK, then add me to your ignore list. Otherwise, fuck fuck fuckity fuck... :flipoff2:

Seriously, it's just a word. It was used for a reason: to emphasize the fact that you needed to go back and read the post, FULLY. And you did. You also admitted to that later. Don't be bitter with me, because of your mistakes... Shhhhhhhhh. :D

I'm entertained now. So sorry to threadjack, but you're the one emotionally invested. I'm indifferent to the topic. You see, this is just a message forum. Nothing important. It doesn't pay the bills, love the wife or feed the kids. I just think people could be half way civil without needing F bombs to get a point across. Consider the fact that what's on a message board is "annoying" you. Think about it?

wait wait...where did this thread go? i thought the topic was "chevy sas progress"?? or am i wrong...

I'm entertained now. So sorry to threadjack, but you're the one emotionally invested. I'm indifferent to the topic. You see, this is just a message forum. Nothing important. It doesn't pay the bills, love the wife or feed the kids. I just think people could be half way civil without needing F bombs to get a point across. Consider the fact that what's on a message board is "annoying" you. Think about it?
You are still missing the entire point. I was trying to clear shit up. People kept making stupid posts, trying to sound smart, but really they were taking away from the integrity of the REAL information. You are the one who couldn't handle the word FUCK. Are you 11? Obviously not.

Get off your high horse. You seriously don't get annoyed with people when they don't listen to you? You don't become bitter when people challenge your expertise? I say mean words, and follow up with smiley's. I was kidding when I was being mean. Yes, I am bitter. If I was talking to somebody in person, and they kept saying the exact opposite of the truth, I'd tell them to STFU. Just like I'm telling you -STFU. Even silversas13 told you to get out of his thread. If people would have just read what we were saying, then it would have stopped after the first person. But instead, his thread was ruined by people like you. He wanted advice, critique, and praise ON HIS project - not the person who put a DODGE 94-01 AXLE under his truck.

If you really wanted to contribute to this thread, you would provide some of the expertise. Tell us about how you SAS'd your Tahoe. Tell us about how well your D44 is holding up to the supercharger, and 35's. Give us some knowledge...

EDIT: Sorry, I forgot to say fuck... :p

OK, seriously, how many guys on here are familiar with fatigue failure. I do want the fabricator to consider this. Basically, that big moment arm creates a significant stress concentration at the weld bead. That stress concentration is compounded due to the uneven cooling process as the bead was laid. The connection is exposed to very high stress. The question is, is there enough material to spread that stress load.

And again, it's not now that I'm worried about. As low-carbon steel is cyclically loaded, the endurance limit of material, over time, drops to about half of the ultimate strength of the material. Imagine using half as much material to build the same brackets. Now consider that the material properties of the metal at the welds are no longer in spec (heat), so that half limit isn't even half anymore. It gets a little scarier.

So what are your options? To greatly reduce the stress you could consider shortening the moment arm and making the bracket a bolt-on assembly. Just a thought. Trying to be constructive. Your connections may have enough redundant material to be fine, but at least consider this for your next build.

As for this bracket, if frame and bracket are flush, you could fab a "fish plate" to reinforce it more.

AMERICAN, I'll be in KC tomorrow. Should I have some Smokehouse Burnt Ends, Arthur Bryant's Ribs or Gates Sausage, I can't make up my mind. And for the record, I'm not 11, I'm 11 and a half.

i recently finished a sas on a 01 chevy and got all my heims, metal, bump stops, limit straps, etc. from polyperformance.com at a resonable price for all you out there looking for a supplier.

Well heres the final result tryouts.. Went out to lomida behind folsom lake it was fukin badass!

http://myspace-620.vo.llnwd.net/00664/02/67/664427620_l.jpg

http://myspace-185.vo.llnwd.net/00664/58/16/664426185_l.jpg

http://myspace-742.vo.llnwd.net/00664/24/71/664431742_l.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i182/silversas13/LOMIDA/IMG_1519.jpg
Got lots more if u want them..Cant wait til the shackel reverse and the front dual shackles!!

It looks like the rear is doing all the work.

have any pics of the rear hangers of the front springs??

Yah here u go:

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i182/silversas13/LOMIDA/WHEELIN/IMG_1548.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i182/silversas13/LOMIDA/WHEELIN/IMG_1547.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i182/silversas13/LOMIDA/WHEELIN/IMG_1545.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i182/silversas13/LOMIDA/WHEELIN/IMG_1546.jpg


Im goin to do a dual shackel in the front to get some flex and better driveabilty...

cool......man what length sprigns are you running again?? Mine line up in a completly different spot....how is your pinion / caster angles??

http://i3.tinypic.com/vpetqd.jpg

http://i3.tinypic.com/vpetz9.jpg

http://i3.tinypic.com/vpeuzb.jpg

http://i3.tinypic.com/vpexyv.jpg

Thats about where they will sit, alittle down from the pictures because the front is going to be up a little higher......

Did you have any problems with your leafs not being in the exact same spot in relation to the frame?? One leaf is closer to the frame on one side and the other leaf is further away from the frame (only in the rear).

The front of the leafs are exactly the same spot. I also made sure that the leafs are mounted exactly parrallel. Kinda weird how the fronts are the same but not the back. I checked and the axle is sitting in the correct spot. I am not sure what it is???

My springs are 43inches really short, but what i did was measure the front brackets to the frame and then the middle of the leaf where the little point is to the frame then measured the springs front and rear to make sure they were square, then took the springs off and made welded and bolted the front up first off of the axle springs only where i took my measurements to make sure the axle was where i wanted it, then hooked up the rear mounts to the springs and put the brackets where it makes my measurements work. And make sure your shackles are rotated backward for a better ride and flex...

And make sure your shackles are rotated backward for a better ride and flex...

Go alittle further on this...not understanding whta you mean.. are you talking about making sure the when the vehicle articulates the shackle moves backwards?

Yep make sure your shackles are a lil back at ride height, that way when u flex your shackles will rotate to 90* backward for more flex and better handling. Notice how mine are forward make it that angle only the other way, i did it like that on mine because i had shorter springs and wanted to do dual shackles..

oh yea yea...got ya........ any thoughts on why mine are so much higher on the frame?? probably because of the 52s have more arch and are longer than yours..... thanks for the help man

you might need to move the front hangers forward a lil. With 52's its pretty tight. Here is a pic where my front hangers were.

http://members.shaw.ca/kevin_van/SAS/File00173.jpg

this is when i mocked it up. I ended up moving it back about an inch from here.

thats about right where i have mine at ...mocked up as well

How did the rear hangers of yours look?? Thats what i am worried about...its really high on the frame.

What did you get your 52s from?

Hey who said this shit isn't a rockcrawler....

http://myspace-768.vo.llnwd.net/00673/86/75/673795768_l.jpg

http://myspace-185.vo.llnwd.net/00664/58/16/664426185_l.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a285/marcbmx1/lomidawheelin001.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a285/marcbmx1/lomidawheelin050.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a285/marcbmx1/lomidawheelin045.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a285/marcbmx1/lomidawheelin048.jpg
My bro gettin it done in the jeep!!
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a285/marcbmx1/lomidawheelin010.jpg

Got stuck once, inexperinced guider..
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a285/marcbmx1/lomidawheelin011.jpg

Nice build. Any lockers? I'd throw a lockright up front, and weld the rear up, until I could switch to 3/4T...

looks good man.....glad to see your getting your use out of it right off the bat......having any problems or anything you are going to be changing.

Ya thanx, like i said im doin a dual shackle up front for the lack of leaf spring length="no flex". and a shackle reversal in the rear, and thats about it for this truk. Im lookin for a 90-95 toyota pickup 2wd to do full widths on, i got 2 blazers and a 1976 .75 ton truck out in the back all work fine but since no one is buying them, im stripping one down and throwing the running gear under a yota.. The chevy already got its driver side caught between a rock and a hard spot, so its gonna be my tow rig now.... If anyones interested in parts or a whole rig let me know......

Dude take those axles from the 3/4T and put them under that truck, get rid of the other fullsizes, and just build a yoter too. Have a fullsize that can be wheeled, and can actually stay together, and then just build an 85... Much better ideas :p

Ok phase 1 of the build is complete. Now the tires and axles are to big for the running gear :flipoff2: !!

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i182/silversas13/truckcreek5.jpg?t=1179072073

Phase 2 Im going to bob and dovetail the rear and reinstall the skins of the bed back on to it. Chop the door and the bottom floor and boatside it 15 inchs from the frame to right where the top of the chrome is, itll be higher to just in but a ton more protection and ground/rock clearance! Tube front bumper and drop the front down 5 inchs so i can see over the motha. New 350 motor, rebuild the 465 and 205 case. And last ripping the dash out to secure my steering wheel remount the stereo and cb, new bucket seats and start the inside to out rollcage.

fuck yeah jermy ima be there doin it whit you.i got a plasma cutter.does this mean me and hamilton get 2 prime it