Here's some of the info on the Gen III 5.3 swap into a International Scout II. It might help with other vehicles as well.

This info covers the GM Gen III V8's: Vortec 4.8/5.3/6.0/6.2 and LS1/2/3/6/7/9. And is by no means complete It's just a guide and info for the cost benefit analysis for anybody thinking about the swap.

RPO codes for Gen III/IV (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=785205) LS1,2,3, LQ4/9 etc...


The list is for a Gen III truck engines. But the LS engines are the same basic engines.


GEN III GM ENGINE SWAP INTO SCOUT II INFO

1) EXHAUST You will need stock F-body LS1 Camaro exhaust manifolds 1998-2002. The stock trucks will not fit the frame they kick out at the exhaust flange! I got mine for free a local shop had thrown them in a dumpster because they said they did not need them. Check E-bay, or locally. Don't pay more than 100 bucks more like 50 bucks for both! Oh, size at least dual 2.5'' back with a cross-over fwd of the transmission with (insert your mufflers here). Single exhaust will work I would do 2.5'' to muffler than a single 3'' or 3.5'' out. As for headers Longtubes are the way to go. But since nobody makes longtubes for the scout swap. I have been looking at some Jeep LT's for GEN III swaps in those they may fit with out mods. I have yet to see if they will fit though. UPDATE: Having yet tried I believe a set of F-body long tubes 98-2002 might fit.


2)VSS The computer needs a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) signal for shifting the 4L60E and to get the motor to idle right in certain conditions. If running a manual trans you need some type of VSS for the ECM as well for better economy and idle. The stock location for the VSS is in the transfer case on 4x4's. It uses the VSS for the computer and speedo. Options are the 1990 to 1991 NP241 right drop with VSS but you may have to change the ring and the sensor to the late model stuff just check to see if it has the 40 tooth ring on it. Just make sure that VSS is at the end of what ever gear reduction you have of the engine may idle funny and the trans not shift right when in low range! VSS information (http://www.jagsthatrun.com/V8-chapters/V8-tpi-Speed-Sensors.pdf)
The engine can be tuned to run without a VSS but I wouldn't recommend it expect for off road use only. As it reduces and fuel mileage.

3) Fuel The engine needs 60psi give or take to run. I made a custom tank out of Aluminum for the stock scout location and used the stock gm intank pump and sender truck pump for the same year as the motor. I had to shorten the sender float so it would fit the tank and read correctly. I wanted a little more than the stock 19 gals but the 33 gal is to big so the tank holds 25 gals. Options are a external pump mounted low on the frame rail with a return from the engine to the tank. The 2005 up truck fuel rails use a return less fuel system like the LS1 do, so you need a regulator like the Vette fuel/regulator or stock fuel sender. In the stock returnless fuel systems for the trucks the regulator is in the tank with the pump and sender. On the earlier truck manifolds just run a filter and a return line. Summit sells slip on fitting adapters to connect the rail to AN fittings.

4) Emissions I don't run any kind of emissions on my engine. So if your state says you do than you most run cats and EGR valve. But if not than you can cap the EGR valve at the intake and exhaust and remove the valve on pre 03 engines the later engines don't have EGR on certain models. And I don't run cats or a purge canister for the gas tank. You most have some one remove the emissions codes in the computer or the check engine light will be on. O2 sensors the stock truck has four two in front of the cats (you need these) and Two behind the cats (can be removed and code turned off). The computer just uses those two behind the cat to see if the cats are working or not.

5) Cooling I bought a universal Chevy style radiator from summit that fits the scout opening. I modified the stock GM truck hoses to fit the rad. There is a small hose than goes into the stock rad and a heater for the throttle body I removed for a cooler air intake. It Uses this to prevent throttle ice in cold air but round here it doesn't get that cold. Also on the LS motors you can cap the rear lines and just use the front steam ports. Fan I use an Electric fan because I mounted the engine low and the stock gm fan is to low plus the e-fan doesn't steal horse power! I also run a trans cooler and oil cooler under the AC evap.

6) Computer and wiring I used the stock computer and had it modified with HPtuners to work for what I needed. It's reprogrammed for performance. You will have to go in to the computer and defeat the anti theft software (VATS) so the engine will run in the scout. VATS uses the stock gm ignition switch to tell if it's in the right truck or not! For wiring I interfaced the stock gm harness to my own home made harness for the dash with auto meter gauges. I also put a check engine light (yellow LED) in the dash and put an OBD II plug under the dash so I can plug up My laptop. Options are to interface the gm harness with painless universal. I would recommend pulling all stock scout wires if the are the original old ones not worth a fire! I will try to compile a list of codes to turn off and make a harness interface guide as to what pins do what from the computer I have see them on line but A good shop manual for the gm stuff as wire prints in them. Oh you must also wire the brake light switch up so the torque converter will lock and unlock. I also used the stock Gm Neutral safety backup light switch on the trans at the shift lever. Also if you get the under hood GM fuse block as well as the TAC box and gas petal, this will make swaps easier for DBW TB.



Basically what can be removed or not needed

-EGR: mounts in front of pass. head with a tube running from the exhaust manifold to the valve then into the intake behind the TB. This for 03 and earlier motors mostly.

-canister purge valve/lines: These run from the charcoal canister to a valve above the drivers valve cover then into the intake on top.

-Cats: catalytic converters you don't need them.

-Rear O2's: These are mounted behind the cats (2 each) and tell the PCM if the cats are working or not. you don't need these.

-Oil level sensor: It's on the pass. of oil pan. You can jumper the wires in the harness at that plug. I usually leave it hooked up.

-TB heater: Coolant tubes in the TB that move coolant through the TB to heat it. Just remove the lines from the TB and reconnect underneath it.

The harness can be reworked to remove these things and make it for a 3 or 4 wire hook up to the vehicle. Then have the PCM tuned to remove what you don't need.

Sensor locations (Gen III truck motor)
-MAP is on top of the intake, towards the rear.

-Knock sensors are under the intake but the connector is just to the driver side of the MAP sensor on the intake. (Gen IV motors are on the each side of the block)

-Coolant temp is in the front of the driver side cylinder head.

-Oil pressure is right next to the Cam sensor at the back block behind the intake.

-Low oil level mounted on the pass or oil pan

-EVAP purge solenoid The cylinder sticking out of the intake right in back of the throttle body is the EVAP purge solenoid.

-TPS and IAC are on the cable throttle body. IAC on top. DBW TB has no IAC.

-MAF and IAT are combined in the MAF located on the intake tube.

-Cam sensor Back of the block on Gen III motors and is mounted on the front of the timing cover on Gen IV motors.

-Crank Trigger Located on pass. of block inboard of the starter. Gen III motors are 24x wheel and Gen IV are 58x wheel (save for the early LS2's 05-06 these were Gen IV motors with E40 ECM and 24x wheel's). Black color is 24x reluctor and grey one is 58X reluctor

DBW components
The TAC module has two connections, one for the pedal harness..other hooks into main engine harness there are two styles the 9-pin connector the later ones are 6-pin.

TAC modules have to match up to the year range of the PCM AND the throttle body.

03-05 TAC module works with 03-05 truck TB and 03-05 PCM (BLUE/GREEN connectors)

01-02 TAC module works with 01-02 truck TB, 97-04 Vette TB, and 01-02 PCM (BLUE/RED connectors).

03-05 TAC modules have an aluminum mounting base, 01-02 TAC modules are all black plastic including the mounting base.



7) Engine mounts I used Advance Adapters universal small block Gen I adapters and weld to the frame and adapted the engine mount to fit the gen III with a plate. I was to lazy to make my own mount the AA stuff is great. The Gen I motors have Three mount holes on the side of the block. The GEN III has four. I weld a steel plate to their mount and used one hole and weld the rest to the plate and drilled the other holes and bolted all four holes to the engine, GRADE 8 Metric bolts are a must. I custom made the trans mount with a hump fro the front shaft.

8) Driveshafts I used JB conversion slip yoke eliminator on the transfer case I run a cv front and rear. The rear shaft will be short with out the SYE like 24 inches but I gained 6 inches in the SYE conversion. Custom shaft rear and stock 86 blazer front lengthened a little.

9) Air conditioner I used the stock gm 99 air compressor and adapted it to work with the scout stuff the compressor fits with just enough room to bolt the hoses on. I had to bend the stock hose to the run them right than adapt them to the IH stuff with adapters. it could still be use as trail air if you don't need the AC. Note the later Gen IV E38/E40/E67 ECM's won't control the a/c system. SO it to needs to be standalone if using 2007-up motor.

10)Intakes The truck intake flow the same as the LS1 car and offers better low end over the car one. The LS6 flows better than the trucks but not enough to be worth swapping it out. The aftermarket FAST etc. flow really well but are expense! You can upgrade to a TBSS LS2 90mm TB truck intake or an LS2 90mm as well.
The new L92 and L76/LS3 intakes will only fit the L92/LS3 square intake ports and won't fit the Gen III heads.
Also the DBW intakes are alittle different than the cable ones as well with the PCV locations.

11)Heads There are lots of choices now. From ported to stock. Stockers: The 317 stock 6.0L heads are based on the LS6 243 and flow pretty good. The 799 heads are basically 243. The L92 head will only fit a 4'' bore motor and will only work with L92/LS3 intake because of the different intake ports. YOu can add 243 to a 5.3l but it will increase CR as well. Then newer 5.3l actually come with 243 heads now.


12)Oil Pans There are several stock pans to choice from for your application. LSx oil pans (http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/817787-lsx-oil-pans.html) pictures and dimensions.


13)Transmissions The Gen III/IV engine share the same SBC trans patterns as the early V8. So any SBC TH350/400/700r4 or Gen I 4l60 and 4l80 trans will bolt right up. You just need to correct flex plate and spacers for the earlier SBC trans. A spacer supports the torque converter nose. AND YES THAT'S THE WAY IT GOES!!! Some have even not even used the spacer. But, like i said it's to support the converter center.
TECH: Gen III/IV "LS motor" to Auto Trans (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=11065304&postcount=1)

The Gen III converters for the 4l60 have a large center section than the Gen I and hence the dish. The spacers on the crank themselves are for the 4l80's with the 6.0ls behind them with flat flex plates.

4l80 converter Note the middle used with flat flexplate and spacer on the crank
http://www.idatc.com/Phots/4l80-1-under.gif

4l60 Gen I/ 4.3L smaller center hub
http://jeepinpete.com/engine_trans_adapt_files/image033.jpg

4l60/65/70 Note the larger center hub for the dished flex plate!
http://www.idatc.com/Phots/4l60e_mx_lid.gif




Spacer from GM parts direct or local dealer
GM PART # 12563532
CATEGORY: Engine Flywheel
PACK QTY: 1
CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $52.86
OUR PRICE: $31.34

BOLTS
GM PART # 12563533
CATEGORY: All
PACK QTY: 1
CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $6.86
OUR PRICE: $4.06

The later model 2007 trucks using the E38/E67 ECM's use a separate TCM for all transmissions. So you will need the TCM for the 4l65/70 and the 4l80 as well. GM did this because they need the new ECM to control things like VVT and AFM and the transmission controls really limit the computing power so they separated them.

The new 6l80/90 will work, the TCM is internal to these, but the limiting factor with these is they require a 58x relutor wheel and new E38/E67 ECM controller. So these are only options for the Gen IV's now. Till some one makes a standalone for the TCM inside the trans.

LINKS

LS1Tech (http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids-28/)
GEN III INFO (http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb040538.htm)



The Gm engine Gen IV Vortec L92 6.2L /L76 6.0L and LS2/3/7. The basic difference's of the new motors are the placement of the knock sensors on the side of the block, a 4x cam sensor mounted in the front of the cam now, some have VVT, AFM, and a 58x reluctor wheel (crank trigger). These engines are the same as the Gen III save for these changes and most parts inter change from both family's.


EGR Block off plate
GM PART # 12558346
CATEGORY: Engine Fuel Intake Manifold
PACK QTY: 1
CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $22.03
OUR PRICE: $13.06

INtake Brake nipple adapter
GM PART # 12559760
CATEGORY: All
PACK QTY: 1
CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $5.52
OUR PRICE: $3.28



That's just half of the info I have found, and will try to answer your questions! Anything to help!

http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/4810/truckjb4.gif
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/ls6_dim_frt.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20/PerthPurplePenguin/car%20parts/ls6_dim_side.jpg

PINOUTS FOR GEN III VORTEC TRUCKS PCM

Blue connector
1 Ground BLK/WHT
2 Ignition LT GREEN (to crank position sensor)
3 Inj 3 PKN/BLK
4 Inj 2 LT GRN/BLK
5
6
7
8
9
10
11 KS Signal LT BLU
12 CKP DK BLU/WHT (to crank pos. sensor)
13 Req torque ORG/BLK (to electronic brake control module)
14 serial data ORG/BLK (to throttle actuator control module, fly by wire throttle)
15 serial data DK BLU/WHT (to throttle actuator control module, fly by wire throttle)
16
17 range b DK BLU (to transmission)
18 range c RED (to transmission)
19 ignition PNK (to fuse center)
20 B+ ORG/BLK (to fuse center, constant 20A fuse, ECMB fuse)
21 Ref low YEL (crank pos. sensor)
22
23 sens gnd PPL (EGR valve)
24
25 HO2S LO TAN
26 HO2S LO TAN
27
28 HO2S LO TAN/WHT
29 HO2S LO TAN/WHT
30 Coolant level LT GRN (on radiator)
31
32 PRND A BLK/WHT
33 BRK SW PPL (to black 14 pin connector then brake switch in car)
34 PRND P WHT
35
36 Inj 1 BLK/WHT
37 Inj 6 YEL/BLK
38 Lift Dive sig PNK/WHT (to suspension control module)
39
40 Ground BLK/WHT
41 Ground BLK (to transmission fluid temp sensor)
42
43 inj 7 RED/BLK
44 inj 4 LT BLU/BLK
45 +5V GRY (Fuel tank pressure sensor)
46 +5V GRY (TPS)
47 +5V GRY (MAP)
48 +5V GRY (EGR)
49
50
51 KS Signal
52
53 sens gnd (?)
54 sens gnd (?)
55 EGR input
56 Fuel Comp Sig (?)
57 B+ ORG (to fuse center, constant 20A fuse, ECMB fuse)
58 CLS 2 Data DK GRN (to OBD II diagnostic port pin 2)
59 CLS 2 Data YEL (to BCM fuel enable signal, serial data, VATS must be deleted in truck computers.)
60 sens gnd (?)
61 Ref low (?)
62
63 sens gnd (?)
64
65 HO2S HI
66 HO2S HI
67
68 HO2S HI
69 HO2S HI
70 Oil Level BRN (to oil switch in pan)
71
72 PRND B
73 CMP BRN/RED or BRN/WHT (to cam pos sensor)
74 ECT sig YEL (coolant temp signal, to sender in head)
75 Ignition PNK (to fuse center)
76 inj 5 BLK/WHT
77 inj 8 DK BLU/WHT
78
79 3-2 SS except 6.0L BRN or White
80 Sens rtn


RED connector

1 Ground BLK/WHT
2 TCC PWM BRN (to trans)
3
4
5 Delivered Torque TAN/BLK (to electronic brake control module)
6 PC SOL HI RED/BLK (to trans)
7 EGR Control RED
8 PC Sol Lo LT BLU/WHT (to trans)
9 Fuel Pump DK GRN/WHT (+12V power output for fuel pump relay to fuse center)
10 RPM out WHT (tach output 4cyl signal to black 14 pin connector)
11 Recirc Sw DK BLU (to 2 pin connector on passenger side of harness)
12
13 Cruise Eng LT BLU/BLK (to black 14 pin connector)
14
15 Gen L BRN
16 4WD Low GRY/BLK
17 AC REQ DK GRN/WHT
18
19
20 VSS Lo LT GRN/BLK (to VSS on side of trans)
21 VSS High PPL/WHT (to VSS on side of trans)
22
23
24 TP Sig DK BLU (to TPS sensor)
25 IAT SIG TAN (to mass air flow temp sensor)
26 Ign Ctrl PPL/WHT (coil )
27 Ign Ctrl RED or RED/WHT (coil )
28 Ign Ctrl LT BLU/WHT (coil )
29 Ign Ctrl DK GRN/WHT (coil )
30
31 MAF SIG YEL
32 MAP SIG LT GRN
33 Recirc Door DK GRN
34 Evap Can DK GRN/WHT (to solenoid on top of intake)
35
36
37
38
39 Ign Feed RED (cam pos sensor)
40 GND BLK/WHT
41 EGR GND WHT
42 TCC SOL TAN/BLK except 6.0L (to trans)
43 A/C CLU DK GRN/WHT
44
45 EVAP Vent WHT (pin C of blue 12 pin plug)
46 MIL Ctrl BRN/WHT (to black 14 pin connector chk engine light)
47 2-3 SS YEL/BLK
48 1-2 SS LT GRN
49 VSS Out YEL/BLK (pin E of blue 12 pin connector)
50 VSS Out DK GRN/WHT (to black 14 pin connector)
51 TFT Sens Sig YEL/BLK (to trans fluid temp)
52 Gen F GRY (2000 only)
53
54 Fuel Lev PPL (to pin K of blue 12 pin connector)
55 CYC SW in DK GRN (A/C system)
56
57 SENS GND BLK
58
59
60 REF Low BRN (to ign coils)
61 REF Low BRN/WHT (to ign coils)
62 PRND C GRY (to trans)
63 TRANS RNG A PNK (to trans)
64 Fuel SIG CTRL DK GRN (pin D of 12 pin blue conector, to fuel tank pressure sensor)
65
66 IGN CTRL PPL/WHT (coil )
67 IGN CTRL RED/WHT (coil )
68 IGN CTRL DK GRN (coil )
69 IGN CTRL LT BLU (coil )
70
71
72
73
74
75
76 IAC COIL HI LT GRN/WHT
77 IAC COIL LO LT GRN BLK
78 IAC COIL LO LT BLU/BLK
79 IAC COIL HI LT BLU/WHT
80 ORG/BLK (pin G of 12 pin blue connector)


Black 14 pin connector. Not labled a-n, just identify order by wire color/placement.

A blu/blk pin 13 cruise engage Depends
B wht Power steering pump pressure sensor No
C pnk canister evap vent Depends
D grn pin 50 VSS out Depends
E ppl pin 33 TCC Break switch If using 4l60e/ 80e yes
F brn/wht MIL control Yes
G Grn pin 58 serial data Yes
H tan/wht oil pressure Depends
I wht pin 10 Tachometer Depends
J brn Power steering pump pressure sensor No
K yel VATS No unless using BCM
L brn 4wd low No
M grn A/C recirc. No
N grn/blk to fuse center Me no, but you ?????????


Blue 12 pin plug
A
B
C Gry pin 45 evap vent Depends
D grn pin 64 fuel signal control Depends
E yel/blk pin 49 VSS out Depends
F wht pin 45 EVAP vent Depends
G orng/blk Pin 80 Blue connector No idea what it does??????????????
H
J blk pin 53 Blue ????????????????????????
K ppl pin 54 Fuel level Depends
L
M

2 Pin black connector is fo 4WD low range Not used


Large Black plug for fuse box. Not labled just follow diagram to find wires

Pnk Injection 2&4 Yes
blk ground Yes
pnk coils odd Yes
pnk ignition 1 Yes
ppl Starter Depends
yel PRND switch No
pnk Injection 1&3 Yes
pnk injection 5&7 Yes
ppl/wht PRND No
grn PRND No
pnk PRND No
Orng Battery Yes
pnk Front o2 Yes
pnk Rear o2 Depends
dk grn/wht Fuel pump relay Yes
pnk evap purge Depends
pnk injectors 6&8 Yes
blk Ground Yes
pnk coils even Yes
blk/wht ground Yes
LT Blue A/C Depends
pnk MAF Yes
drk blu A/C recirc. No
Grn A/C compressor Depends
LT grn PRND No
grn/blk to blk connector No/Depends
pnk evap vent Depends
pnk Ignition 2 pin 75 Yes

2)VSS The computer needs a Vehical speed sensor (VSS) signal for shifting the 4L60E and get the motor to idle right. If running a manual trans you don't need to worry about it.

Wouldn't this refer to the pk/n sw and not the VSS?


Good info!

Basically just using that as an example with out to much detail. Actually I have heard of people using the adavnced adapters VSS that goes between the transfer case and trans and having problems when being in four low and idle and cawling cause of the gear reduction and not in park.

thats some good info!

Hmmm, so this is what real tech looks like:D

thats some good info!

Hmmm, so this is what real tech looks like:D


Yeah it's been in the Skunkwerks forum of the BB for about a week!!:flipoff2:! BO185, has a great write up over there.

The pinouts for the computer change depending on what year LSX motor it is, and fbody and vette are way different than the pickups...just fyi for those looking into such a swap.

Yeah what the hell is this shit...

Nice.

Your a good man Bo, thanks for all the backchannel help



any pics of your motormounts?

thats some good info!

Hmmm, so this is what real tech looks like:D
Kind of a nice break from all the Monty Hall type posts!

http://www.curtalliaume.com/Hall.jpg

now if I could only find a 6.0 gen III for a bit less than my life savings

I just picked up a LQ9 off ebay. Its from an 02 Escalade and came with the
4L60E. THe motor is rated at 345hp and 380tq.

You did a nice wright up. Have you got the rig running yet? If so how does it feel? Does it make the scout get with it?

Your a good man Bo, thanks for all the backchannel help



any pics of your motormounts?

Pictures of the Mock up stage so no bashing on the shitty stuff it will get fixed! I got everything apart and have may tub off to replace the entire floor and powder coat frame and line-x tub.

http://x11.putfile.com/3/7300101691.jpg

http://x11.putfile.com/3/7300121890.jpg

http://x11.putfile.com/3/7300142626.jpg

http://x11.putfile.com/3/7300162677.jpg

now if I could only find a 6.0 gen III for a bit less than my life savings
Easiest thing to do is buy a well used 2000 and up 5.3 complete. I paid 500 bucks for mine complete with everything computer harness and air filter and rebuild and run it or find a longblock 6.0L to swap for the 5.3. I bought a 6.0L longblock on e-bay for 600 bucks but I am building a stroker anyway so it will be rebuilt to a 408CI.

5.3's fetch a pretty penny round here too.

I need/want a complete 5.3/6.0 4l65/4l80e

Easiest thing to do is buy a well used 2000 and up 5.3 complete. I paid 500 bucks for mine complete with everything computer harness and air filter and rebuild and run it or find a longblock 6.0L to swap for the 5.3. I bought a 6.0L longblock on e-bay for 600 bucks but I am building a stroker anyway so it will be rebuilt to a 408CI.

Where the heck are you finding new engines for 500 $ ???:confused:

Everything's chearper outside SOCAL!:D

i see them on ebay for like 600-1k all the time

i picked up a 4.8 harness, ecu and all for 400.

Easiest thing to do is buy a well used 2000 and up 5.3 complete. I paid 500 bucks for mine complete with everything computer harness and air filter ....

Did you get that from a local bone yard? If so which one?

Actually I talked to a guy at Lynn's auto salvage in Conway that sells wrecks complete to the public. I was going to buy a whole truck. Take what I need than part the rest out. But they didn't have what I needed. He said he knew some one selling a whole 5.3. So I bought it for 500 bucks engine cover to oil pan.

I know you should be able to get a 5.3 complete with harness less computer for around 600-800 bucks (milage depends on price) with out PCM as well from Sunny's out salvage in J-ville. If not there is a place called cores inc. out Hwy 294 in furlow that sells longblocks Gen III's for like 300 bucks (if he has them haven't checked lately) but they need rebuild. And you have to make sure it's a 5.3 first! Then rebuild and buy the parts you need off e-bay as well but it adds up quickly.

Good deal..... I didnt know about the place in furlow, and I have lived within 15 miles of there for 16 years. Thanks

Actually there are no signs on the place and the guy works behind his house. And just sells the stuff for scrap. I have gotten some stuff from him. I don't know the address as that's the only way to find it.

First, Bo185, great post, It really has helped a lot, and helped me make the decsion to go with the Gen III that much easier. Thank you.
I'm about to put a 2003 Gen III engine in my '75 Scout, and I was wondering what did you use for the transmission mount? Did you use the drive by wire throttle or swith to a cable throttle?

A couple of questions for anyone. I want to go with new front bucket seats and I would like to know what seats work.
Has any one installed power seats and windows?

Thank you.
Pete

I'm about to put a 2003 Gen III engine in my '75 Scout, and I was wondering what did you use for the transmission mount? Did you use the drive by wire throttle or swith to a cable throttle? What engine are you installing?

I am trying to replace the 5.3L with a 6.0L for more power!


I used the cable, you can use the stock IH pedal and a universal cable. But I been thinking about switching to the Drive by wire for the cruise control, the DBW would be easier to use than a cable.

The problem is the stock GM truck DBW pedal is shaped wrong for the Scout. I haven't yet tried to look for the correct one. But their are alot of options. Might take you stock IH pedal, for the shape, to a wrecker and look at a vette pedal, or maybe a trailblazer, I think the pedal plugs are all the same.

A couple of questions for anyone. I want to go with new front bucket seats and I would like to know what seats work.
Has any one installed power seats and windows?

Thank you.
Pete I am trying to fight silverado buckets and have seen the installed in a Scout before. Mine are power and have built in seat belts. The Silverado seats are wide and you will need to modify the hump to get them installed correctly.

Bo185,
Thank you for the reply. I'm installing a 5.3l with 53k miles out of a 2003 Tahoe that was rolled. The engine, trans, computer, complete exhaust and harness was 2k at the bone yard.
I also bought the gas peddle and in-tank fuel pump out of the Tahoe. And yes the peddle is shaped wrong, way wrong. I guess I'll buy an after market 80mm throttle body, but first I'll take your suggestion and check out the other car models. Cruise control sounds like a nice option. If I go with a new high performance cable actuated throttle body I was thinking of adding a K&N type air cleaner and headers, and leave the engine at that. I'm mocking up the engine install this weekend to set up the motor mounts with about a 3 degree driveline angle. I haven't tackeled the fuel tank and pump yet and all the fuel line plumbing.
For seats, I was thinking something out of a mid-size GM SUV's. How about power windows?
Looks like your Scout is in the same stage as mine. Mine also is a yellow one. I'm thinking about painting it the same yellow a 69-70 Chevell.
Thanks again for your great post and your time.

For all you guys here's a good salavage yard link; http://car-part.com/. car-aprt.com in case the link didn't come thru.

Bo185 - One more question. Did you rebuild the wire harness yourself? There is a shop in our area that rebuilds the harness to a 4 or 5 wire hook-up. But the price is $450 plus another $400 for the computer re-program. I guess my next step is get the service manual.
My Scout is a "75 2wd.
Your posts have been a great help.
For everyone, Bo185 and others have great posts on the Binder Bulletin Board for this engine swap.

As in around Arkansas? There is a place in Jacksonville, but I have never used them or seen there work. Basically if you have underhood fuse box and a pin out list then you good to go. I just removed the emissions tuff and rear O2s.

I have mine all apart fixing the rust and doing other mods. I been busy working on other Bullshit and need to get back on my Scout!

So how would you be able to use a 5.3/4L60E and still keep a cable driven speedometer? The way I see it you could use the newer transfer case and not be able to run a cable or use and older 241 or 205 and use a speedo cable but you would not have anywhere for a VSS. Is there an access point in the transfer case adapter to run something off the transmission output shaft?

So how would you be able to use a 5.3/4L60E and still keep a cable driven speedometer? The way I see it you could use the newer transfer case and not be able to run a cable or use and older 241 or 205 and use a speedo cable but you would not have anywhere for a VSS. Is there an access point in the transfer case adapter to run something off the transmission output shaft?The easiest thing to do is swap gauges to the new round style with a electric speedo.

But, if you dead set on a cable driven speedo then all you need is a plug in VSS.
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/
Jags that Run
Check them out I think they sell a VSS that goes inline of the speedo and transfer case mech. speedo output.

I found some inline VSS units on their site. That looks like the way to go, thanks.

Bo185, I did a mock-up install with the Chevy 5.3. I ended up with the new mounts from AA located right at the shock mount. Is this near where your engine mounts ended up at?
When I said referring to the wire shop around our area, I meant Tampa Bay, Fl. Sorry about that.
Also I ordered a set of Edelbrock headers that will hopefully fit inside the frame. Still trying to decide if I want to go with a mild cam since it looks like I'll be getting a new throttle body (BBK 80mm) and I have the new headers.
Thank you,
Pete

Bo185, I did a mock-up install with the Chevy 5.3. I ended up with the new mounts from AA located right at the shock mount. Is this near where your engine mounts ended up at? About Think mine are alittle farther forward to gain longer rear drive shaft. Old pictures attached.



Also I ordered a set of Edelbrock headers that will hopefully fit inside the frame. Still trying to decide if I want to go with a mild cam since it looks like I'll be getting a new throttle body (BBK 80mm) and I have the new headers.
Thank you,
Pete I wanted headers but I would have to modify my mounts to get them to clear. Let me know if the headers clear the frame.

You can get nice gains out of a cam. http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/
PerformanceTrucks.net Forums - powered by vBulletin

Start your research here lot more info on the truck motors.

To me the 80MM TB is worthless unless its in a high rmp motor IE LS1,LS2,etc... You shouldn't see over 5,800 to 6,000. Some spin these motors to 7,000!


Later!

Bo185, I realized after my posted that I need to check the motor mount location with the new headers. Damn.
I looked into the cost of a new cam and throttle body, and they're a little too rich for my blood. I'm going to go with a throttle body off a 5.3 that has a cable.
Thanks

Be careful on the headers, I have asked about full length headers on several forums and no one seems to know of any that will fit a Scout or CJ/YJ/TJ/ Everyone says shortys aren't worth the money on LSX engines

Bo185, What shifter are you using? I am trying to plan this same swap into a FSJ.

Bo185, What shifter are you using? I am trying to plan this same swap into a FSJ.Stock Scout II Auto shifter (its cable floor mounted) and a stock GM mid 80's transfer case shifter.

Any cable shifter should work with the transmission.

Is their any way to retain the tow/haul mod or turning the od on/off?

Is their any way to retain the tow/haul mod or turning the od on/off?
Yes all you would need is a switch.

I did alot of research on this and found the best thing to do for me was just get a custom tune and ditch the tow/haul. All the tow/haul really does is change the shift points of the trans anyway. I have heard of people using a dual tune one for high octane for more power using the tow/haul part of the PCM. But never looked into it.

It's not worth it IMO.

so how did it turn out? Im swapping a 5.3 in to a FJ40.

so how did it turn out? Im swapping a 5.3 in to a FJ40.
Its a pretty easy swap, I had a Vortec 350 before the 5.3L and it had a little more lowend. I have a 6.0L to swap in place of the 5.3L. The nice things about the Gen III engines is they all interchange and you can swap one for the and its a bolt in swap. So you can always add a 6.0L later!:D

Its a pretty easy swap, I had a Vortec 350 before the 5.3L and it had a little more lowend. I have a 6.0L to swap in place of the 5.3L. The nice things about the Gen III engines is they all interchange and you can swap one for the and its a bolt in swap. So you can always add a 6.0L later!:D
or a 6.0L short block with all the other shit off the 5.3L, then you get the added perk of higher compression.

i installed a ls-2 5.3 out of a 07 tahoe with an auto trans in to a 90 wrangler.

i installed a ls-2 5.3 out of a 07 tahoe with an auto trans in to a 90 wrangler.The LS2 is a 6.0L the 5.3L's have different RPO codes.

Do the newer engines have mounting holes for front motor mounts like the old S.B.C. ? I have a 400c.i. 4 bolt main out of a 72 Caprice I'm putting in my Scout II and will use front motor mounts from Speedway Motors and long tube headers they have also.I need a 400 turbo & dana 20 from early Wagoneer to get started.I got an aluminum radiator from Speedway Garage Sale section for $125 (listed for $239)because it had a dent on top of mounting flange (they would not guarantee, it might leak).It does not leak.
Also have a crossfire T.B.F.I. that will go on it , never messed with F.I. befor so this will be a challenge x's 2.Can't wait to get started !

Do the newer engines have mounting holes for front motor mounts like the old S.B.C. ? I have a 400c.i. 4 bolt main out of a 72 Caprice I'm putting in my Scout II and will use front motor mounts from Speedway Motors and long tube headers they have also.I need a 400 turbo & dana 20 from early Wagoneer to get started.I got an aluminum radiator from Speedway Garage Sale section for $125 (listed for $239)because it had a dent on top of mounting flange (they would not guarantee, it might leak).It does not leak.
Also have a crossfire T.B.F.I. that will go on it , never messed with F.I. befor so this will be a challenge x's 2.Can't wait to get started !The 400 should have the mounts just like any SBC.

Yes ,I know my engine has both mounting locations ( front & side ) by using the front mount there will be no interferance with the headers . Thats why I was asking if the newer engines have both mounting locations and if so is there a reason why no one is using the front mounts to make room for headers. Just looking ,it seems that a front mount would almost sit on the Scout frame mounts that are already there and if not cut it off and move it.

Yes ,I know my engine has both mounting locations ( front & side ) by using the front mount there will be no interferance with the headers . Thats why I was asking if the newer engines have both mounting locations and if so is there a reason why no one is using the front mounts to make room for headers. Just looking ,it seems that a front mount would almost sit on the Scout frame mounts that are already there and if not cut it off and move it.The Gen III/IV engines don't have the front mounts like the SBC.

O.K. Thanks

you could make a bracket to cradle the engine and have a front mount but the down fall is you would have no side "control" of the torque of your power train. it would shake bad. IH pickups used a front mount but had side mounts for the tranny.

About Think mine are alittle farther forward to gain longer rear drive shaft. Old pictures attached.



I wanted headers but I would have to modify my mounts to get them to clear. Let me know if the headers clear the frame.

You can get nice gains out of a cam. http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/
PerformanceTrucks.net Forums - powered by vBulletin

Start your research here lot more info on the truck motors.

To me the 80MM TB is worthless unless its in a high rmp motor IE LS1,LS2,etc... You shouldn't see over 5,800 to 6,000. Some spin these motors to 7,000!


Later!


Any more pics of your engine to firewall clearance? Im wondering if there is room for a LS1 intake mounted backward and a decent sized elbow

Any more pics of your engine to firewall clearance? Im wondering if there is room for a LS1 intake mounted backward and a decent sized elbowI'll get some more for you tommorrow, but there should be PLENTY in a Scout II. But I would moving the Engine as far back as it will go (allowing for correct rear drive shaft angles and length) for gettin more of the weight off the nose is what I did and leaving it FWD would be easiest.

Any more pics of your engine to firewall clearance? Im wondering if there is room for a LS1 intake mounted backward and a decent sized elbow

Chi heres some pictures. Its close on mine but i have my motor mounted far back. You could move the motor up about 6 inches more on mine and I think it would clear backwards.

Hey Bo185,

You mind going back and fixing some of the pictures/links toward the beginning of this thread? Some of the pictures are just good, old Red X's now.


5.3L might be in the future of my new rig... found a deal I just might not be able to pass up. Its between the 5.3 (lots of wiring and computer crap) or a Propane 350 (the original plan, dirt simple and "cheap"). This will be for an off-road rig, buggy/truggy.


Tough choice, I like simple, but the 5.3 motors are tremendous bang-for-buck... and its all the rage :D

If your as scared of computers and wiring as I am you can buy your way out of it. From my research by letting someone else reflash the computer and hack your harness its only something like a 4 wire hookup

Bo thanks for the pics, I want to mount the engine as far back as possible and to mount the ls6 intake on backward to make the whole truck assy thing easier. I guess I can't do both.

If your as scared of computers and wiring as I am you can buy your way out of it. From my research by letting someone else reflash the computer and hack your harness its only something like a 4 wire hookup

Bo thanks for the pics, I want to mount the engine as far back as possible and to mount the ls6 intake on backward to make the whole truck assy thing easier. I guess I can't do both.I think mounting the motor back like mine and lower would be best, mine could go back farther but I wanted to keep my rear DS as long as I could.

There have been several threads lately in general, on the LS6 intake swap on a truck motor.

Hello all,
I am wanting to put a 6.0 in my 71 Cherokee sport
I am also wanting to put a quadrasteer set up under it.
Not sure why, I should be putting it under my megacab. Just think it would be awesome off road.
Any info would be great.

Hello all,
I am wanting to put a 6.0 in my 71 Cherokee sport
I am also wanting to put a quadrasteer set up under it.
Not sure why, I should be putting it under my megacab. Just think it would be awesome off road.
Any info would be great.

I'll jump on this one. You sir are a dumbass go to the jeep section

Hello all,
I am wanting to put a 6.0 in my 71 Cherokee sport
I am also wanting to put a quadrasteer set up under it.
Not sure why, I should be putting it under my megacab. Just think it would be awesome off road.
Any info would be great.Don't waste your time on the quadrasteer. Not worth it, even if you get to work. It wasn't designed to work with out a controller.

If you have a question about a Gen III swap ask here or start your own thread. As for the axle question put it in another thread please!

Anyone tried these headers from AA? http://advanceadapters.com/product/2148/717043.html

Anyone tried these headers from AA? http://advanceadapters.com/product/2148/717043.html

Not bad for the price.

Could you post a picture of the Radiator/Cooling setup. A part number would be great. I have a 350 I am swapping into mine

Could you post a picture of the Radiator/Cooling setup. A part number would be great. I have a 350 I am swapping into mineI used the stock Scout II rad. and used stock scout hose cut and run into the chevy hoses as they are different sizes.

I have it all apart right now replacing the floor of the tub.

The IH rad will work just fine if it had a IH 345SV engine in it. If not a summit universal rad. will work just fine use the chevy one that fits the Scout opening.

How much room do you have between the front drive line and the trans pan. Can you fit a 1350 U-joint.:shaking:

How much room do you have between the front drive line and the trans pan. Can you fit a 1350 U-joint.:shaking: I am using the stock GM cv joint. Plenty of room for it. But I am SOA though.

ANy updates or pics Bo 185??

yea whats up with the build? Bo you are posting up and adding tech to every GenIII thread I have read. You should try starting a business and make some dough off all the knowlege you have aquired. Who wants to work on jets anyway:flipoff2:

yea whats up with the build? Bo you are posting up and adding tech to every GenIII thread I have read. You should try starting a business and make some dough off all the knowlege you have aquired. Who wants to work on jets anyway:flipoff2:Man been BUSY workin on those Jets!!! We have been behind lately, our business really picked up first of the year!
And have been working OT almost everyday!

But I have some things in the works for the ole Scout II










Gen IV LY6 and 6l80! :smokin: :D Might be awhile before I get back to it though!

Hey Bo185 What did you use for a fan on the raditator, electric or the one on the motor? If electric which one fits the scout ?
I remember seeing some used a durango electric fan , I think? Not sure.
Thanks Greg

I used the mech. But will most likley swap to an E-fan later. The stock F-body LS1 fans should fit the Scout to rad. as they are pretty close in size.

Ok thanks I will for now also, but just wondering for future. When you installed the 241, did you need to notch floor to get it up, so it would fit better? Or maybe you have a body lift. Did you by chance take any pics of the underside after you installed the cross member and everything?
were you able to use the scout shroud?
Are the camaro exhaust still the best for a scout?
Sorry about all the questions, but trying to line things up ahead of time.
Thanks

Oh by the way Good luck with your new business

Ok thanks I will for now also, but just wondering for future. When you installed the 241, did you need to notch floor to get it up, so it would fit better? Or maybe you have a body lift. Did you by chance take any pics of the underside after you installed the cross member and everything?
were you able to use the scout shroud?
Are the camaro exhaust still the best for a scout?
Sorry about all the questions, but trying to line things up ahead of time.
Thanks

Oh by the way Good luck with your new businessI had some pictures linked to the first post but they are gone now. I'll have to dig them up.

The 4l60/NP241 will clear the tub pretty well. I tried to balance motor height in the frame with how low the transfer case was, its just below the frame the front output that is.

It should clear a 2.5'' exhaust past teh transfer case. I modified my floors to fit the Silverado buckets and modified the floorpan on that side and there is now not enough clearance now.

Ditched the shroud as the motor sets little low on the rad.

The Camaro F-body stock manifolds will clear the frame pretty easily the truck one kit out and hit the frame.

So do you think that the 16 GRY/BLK 1694 4WD Low Signal pin would be needed to show the PCM when the TC is in 4 LOW. I'm guessing for now that I could get that signal from my 241c TC, when I had it in low range. I see some guys are having problems with the 4L60E shifting in low range. Bo have you run into any problems with that?
Also I'm trying to find the pin number for the tow/haul mode on a 2004 5.3 4l60e. Anyone know which one it is, and does it need ground or 12 volt?

So do you think that the 16 GRY/BLK 1694 4WD Low Signal pin would be needed to show the PCM when the TC is in 4 LOW. I'm guessing for now that I could get that signal from my 241c TC, when I had it in low range. I see some guys are having problems with the 4L60E shifting in low range. Bo have you run into any problems with that?
Also I'm trying to find the pin number for the tow/haul mode on a 2004 5.3 4l60e. Anyone know which one it is, and does it need ground or 12 volt?Just make a toggle switch so when you shit in to low you filp the switch. So it will provide ground for Pin 16 when in Low. In the stock application this was actually done by the 4x4 shift buttons on autotracs and on the transfer case on manual shifters.

I would have to look. But all tow/haul does is change the shift points of the transmission. It doen't add "performance".

Thanks BO I think I will just use a micro switch on the shifter somewhere, after I build the shift linkage for the four wheel drive off of the 241C TC.
Since the switch that is in the case only tells you when your in 4 hi or 4 low.
Not just 4 low. So it basically is just for the panel on light on the shifter on the flour. I really hoping it had 3 pins in the switch, but it doesnt.

I really want to put a switch on the tow/haul mode. It make the tranny hold its shift higher, so if your putting along in the woods on a road, it will stay in first gear as long as your not going to fast. Im looking at the pinouts on http://www.lt1swap.com/2004vortec_pcm.htm but Im just not sure which one it is.
If you find out, let me know. I will keep looking.

Another thing I bought some 2002 Camaro manifolds on ebay the other day(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200430717499&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3AOU%3AUS%3A1123), I havent gotten them yet, but Im wondering why those fit but the truck ones wont? Do they tuck in tighter to the block when they go down?
Hopefully I bought the right ones.

Thanks BO I think I will just use a micro switch on the shifter somewhere, after I build the shift linkage for the four wheel drive off of the 241C TC.
Since the switch that is in the case only tells you when your in 4 hi or 4 low.
Not just 4 low. So it basically is just for the panel on light on the shifter on the flour. I really hoping it had 3 pins in the switch, but it doesnt.

I really want to put a switch on the tow/haul mode. It make the tranny hold its shift higher, so if your putting along in the woods on a road, it will stay in first gear as long as your not going to fast. Im looking at the pinouts on http://www.lt1swap.com/2004vortec_pcm.htm but Im just not sure which one it is.
If you find out, let me know. I will keep looking.

Another thing I bought some 2002 Camaro manifolds on ebay the other day(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200430717499&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3AOU%3AUS%3A1123), I havent gotten them yet, but Im wondering why those fit but the truck ones wont? Do they tuck in tighter to the block when they go down?
Hopefully I bought the right ones. I believe I posted it in the Jeep 5.3L thread in the Jeep hardcore section. Few pages from the last post!:) Page 41 in that thread

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=10821123&postcount=1002

You can just tune the PCM to do they same thing as well to hold first.

Search Tow/Haul over on LS1tech as well.


The truck manifolds kick out at the collectors and will hit the Scout II frame. The F-bodys are read dump and stay tight to the block all the way to the rear.

Has anyone done or seen a Trailblazer SS as a donor for a CJ/Wrangler? I just picked one up with a rod-knock and I am starting to look to see how difficult the AWD system would be to convert over!!!!

Boy I don't think you looked to see what was parked outside this bar before you wandered in:eek: