Long time toyota guy and I just purchased a 1989 Range rover for next to nothing. Problem with it, is I cannot get it to go above 30 mph. In the shop at a idle it runs fine, but on the road it has no power.

Did the usuall, cap, plugs, rotor, fuel filter, ect. Checked the wheels for binding ect, all are free.

The EFI light is on and I tried to ohm out the throttle potentiometer, like the manual says, but it does not seem adjustable like the book says. Also with the timing, I have read the book front to back, but I am clueless on how to set it. On the pully by the crank, all I see is 1 big mark on it. When I try and set the distibuter to that mark, with the vaccum off, it runs real crappy. If I turn the distributor, so the vaccum can is close to the thermostat, it seems to run the best. It says to set it too 6 degrees, but I cannot see any marks anywhere that say 6.

Any ideas or any know issues that they have. The rig has 100000 miles and appeared to be somewhat taken care of most of its life.

Thanks

Please see 97 Defender 90 reliability thread. Many of the same issues apply - but more so.

You don't mention it so I'll ask, did you check compression ? Head damage, blown head gasket ? - should run poorly at idle in the shop, but worth checking. Sorry don't do EFI so can't help you there, but if it's idling well (you don't say but i take it you will have taken it up the rev ladder in the shop and that was fine?) and all other things being equal (no obvious transmission problem?) then it is either not getting enough fuel, or the combustion process is not generating power.






Now you remember why you were a long-time Toyota guy. Welcome to hell:grinpimp:

ahhhhhh..... I remember those days, old toyota, jumping in driving to work beating it to death on the trail and it never stops, never overheated, never stopped for no reason, no wierd noises, no electrical glitches, ahh the days
You may want to run your rover to a good shop to get someone good to time it my mark made no difference when I tried to time it:confused: It was nowhere near that mark when we got it tuned in good .And I always timed my old toyota 20rs and 22rs (little less work same princible) The guy timing it builds race engines(dirt track) and he said it was a bear to get in right when he tried to advance one way.....to much tried one tooth over to retard it ....to much It had no power, didnt like to break 50 till that was done BUT there are a plethra of demons that can cause your problems clogged stuff shorted stuff(less likley but it is BRITISH:eek: ) etc, etc,

Welcome to the club, you will end up loving this thing as you hate it.

They are supposed to do that....its a safty feature.

-Jeff

The pre-89s are prone to ECU problems. To check the TPS (you got the memo, didn't you?) use an analog ohmmeter, sweep it through its range of motion and look for spots of incontinuity.

Get the FSM and test the MAF.

Worst case, find somebody with a computer and find out what the ECU is telling the engine and what the engine is telling the ECU. If the ECU says it's going 55 MPH when stationary, the ECU is toast.

Worst case, find somebody with a computer and find out what the ECU is telling the engine and what the engine is telling the ECU. If the ECU says it's going 55 MPH when stationary, the ECU is toast.

Better idea, replace the engien with a diesel, bob the back end and have some fun. Or pass it on to me :)

Better idea, replace the engien with a diesel, bob the back end and have some fun. Or pass it on to me :)

Or, cut out the catalytic converter. They are very prone to meltdown and your truck will exhibit the exact symtoms that yours is. Is it also VERY quiet when you try to rev it up? If so unbolt the cat and get a new one or just hollow yours out.
John...

Use some emory paper in the damper, the timing marks should be there. The big notch is not it. The throttle pot's on the '89s are not adjustable. Ohm it out as previously suggested and look for a flat spot. Only 4 things that will throw a code on an '89. Out of range readings on the thtottle pot, MAF, O2 sensors and damn if I can remember the fourth. LOL oh well. Check your fuel pressure, should be 32psi or close to it. Check for vacuum leak. The ignition amplifier went on my '89 and it would idle fine but would not run right under load. Acted just like a bad condensor on my old series truck.