This isn't going to be a step-by-step build up thread, since I just finished the truck (mostly) today. I've been too busy thrashing try to get this thing done to do a day by day build-up thread. So here it is:

'79 F-150 SWB

-351M (although theres a GT-40 windsor waiting to go together on my engine stand)
-NP435
-NP205
-HP D44, 9" w/ mini-spool, 4.10's

Some might also find it interesting that I did the entire build up in under three months, and for well under $3,000. Also, it was built in our farm shop, using farm shop type tools (AC arc welder, oxy-torch, HF pipe-bender, all hand tools.)

So this was what I started with:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/e3a2aa12.jpg

It was a $500 basket case, rusted beyond belief, rear axle and motor on thier way out.

The rust on the rear frame was impressive to say the least:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/40a15d32.jpg

So, out came the torch:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/90b7ddc4.jpg

New rear frame was in order, staying with the whole 'farm truck' theme, I built it pure straight-truck style: :p
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/ae584aff.jpg

Lots of fabrication went on between these pics, but I was too busy welding to be taking pics. Heres the rear suspension setup that I went with:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Asof1-28-06003small.jpg

This setup gave me about 4" of lift (even after OEM blocks were removed), and a stupid amount of flex considering they are stock rear leaves. My custom shackles can be seen, they are 8" OC, cut out of a single piece of 2x4x.250" box.

Next was building the tube flat bed:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Asof1-28-06008small.jpg

When I started I strongly considered just doing a full-tube truggy style rear end, but I needed this thing to have pleant of bed space, storage area for carrying gear on longer wheeling trips.

BTW, all the tube is actually 1.5" SCH 40 structural pipe, roughly 2" OD, .166" wall.

Heres the finished tube flat bed, there will be an Aluminum chest tool box, and a full size spare bolted down:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Asof2-18-06001small.jpg

If you look close you can see the little square gas door that I had to put in the center rear portion of the bed. I had to do this because the bed was too low to allow proper fuel flow down the filler neck. Now there is just a bung welded to the top of the tank with an OEM gas cap right under the gas door.

Now, skip ahead a few weeks...

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/IMG_0282small.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/IMG_0283small.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/8eca60b4.jpg

So yeah, its nothing too extreme, but it was designed that way. A '4x4 sleeper' is what I'm eventually going for, not to mention just a fun little truck to take on the local trails. BTW, those are 34x10.50-15 LTB's, and the truck is on roughly 4" of lift.

Measuring for shocks:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/9457b151.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/2428e0fa.jpg

I was a little disapointed on the amount of front flex, but I think it will get better after the Skyjacker 4" coils break in a little. The radius arms shouldn't be limiting it, since I custom built them about 12" longer than stock. I guess time will tell.

Next time I'm home I'll get some pics of some of the more detailed stuff such as the extended rad. arms, custom x-member, gas door setup, amongst other things.

This thing is far from done, but at least its wheelable now. The rest of the mods in my sig are being done as we speak, throught the next year.

pretty cool man. i'm getting ready to do a similar "cheap truck" build on a 79 bronco. with 4 inches i'm hoping to clear 38.5's or 39.5's. you can always trim:D

Thanks, yeah I'm going to keep the same amount of lift, but hack the fenders when I step up the tire size on this rig. Low lift, low COG, is the name of the game around here.

how much lighter is that bed than stock? I know when i put the flatbed on my 88, it was quite a bit lighter, and i couldnt romp on it as much as it would braek my tires loose so easy.

I think its only slightly lighter than stock. The bed is roughly 400lbs, but the rear frame is fairly heavy. When I had stock tires on it, it felt about like stock as far as the weight of the rear end. If I can keep this truck under 4700lbs I will be very happy.

i almost did my rear like that with the leafs but decided to make my own rear lift with some hangers made for the front of the leaf and it gave me about 8" of lift for $0.00 all held together with 1/2" diamiter grade 8 bolts holding the brackets to the frame, also put in some sch40 1 1/4" to stop frame flex, check out the 78 f150 buildup thread in a bit, ill be putting up pics rather soon of the setup.

how much did it cost to build the flatbed?

how much did it cost to build the flatbed?

Well, including the main tube of the roll cage (which is an integral part of the bed) there was a little over 2 sticks of 1.5" sch40 pipe, 1 stick of 2"x.125 channel iron, and about a 4x10' sheet of .120 hot-plate. I don't recall exactly how much it cost for just the bed, but I think it was around $375 or so. I can look at the receipt next time I'm home if you'd like an exact price for the metal.

Man that is cool, especially since you make it sound like you don't have many good tools for it. I like it. Now you just need to finish off the cab and make that look nice.

No good tools? Guess that boy has never been around any working farms.:shaking: Looks like a good shop to me. I like the truck very much too !!.:cool2:

Thanks for the compliments. While I don't have many super bling fabrication tools, I pride myself with building things true old school style; heck, for sheet metal I still oxy-ac weld it, lol, AC arc welding on everything else. I do have a notcher and a hyd. operated bender, but only because those are absolutely necessary for this type of work, I'd rather spend money on the rig than tools if I can help it.

LOL, I can't believe that I'm admitting this, but all the paint was done with a brush. I worked as an aircraft mechanic restoring P-51 Mustangs for a few years, during which I also did most of the paint work. Painting a $1.6M aircraft is stressful at best, everything must be 100% perfect, super high dollar paint, top of the line HVLP setup, down-draft booth, etc. With that being said, there was a huge grin on my face when I broke out my $0.99 paint brushes and a gallon of Rustoleum. For once it really didn't matter how the paint turned out, so long as it holds up well and prevents rust. Furthermore, while I do have all the equipment to paint properly, it was during the dead of winter and my shop isn't setup to paint inside.

As for the cab, its shot. The floor pan is completely rusted out, and I hate to even look at the abortion of a patch job that the P/O did. Luckily I have a virtually rust free '78 F-150 cab waiting to go on this summer. Once that happens I'll go ahead and finish the interior cage. So, you guessed it, the plan for now is to wheel the piss outta it, all the current cab will be good for after I'm done is scrap metal...."hmmm, you say a full-size will never fit down that trail?":evil:

haha sweet! You should take off that grill before you munch everything tho!! :D

I say take off the grill and save it for sure...then narrow the front, that would look awesome, plus it would be practice for the good cab

I'm not sure if I'll leave the grill on or not. I also have a factory grill for it, either of which would get equally destroyed. The one reason why I might want to swap back to the OEM grill is that this one is hard as heck to get your fingers between to operate the hood latch. On a side note, this truck came with all the late '70's bling possible. Between the grille, the hurst T-handle shifter(on a 4spd, lol), polished aluminum Mickey Thompson Valve covers (those are going on the wall of my shop when I swap motors), and it apears as though it used to have a bed mounted roll-bar with KC lights, lol.

I plan on leaving it full-width since I like the challenge of wheeling a full-size places that it really shouldn't go, so no narrowing. Thanks for all the replies.

Sweet ride. Your bed looks like it rubs your rear tires a little. I built a similar bed for my 78 but with a little more clearance for the rear tires, being that I don't plan on lifting it.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d118/JSchweikhart/4-9-06%20Paskenta/a74a56c6.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d118/JSchweikhart/4-9-06%20Paskenta/f601377e.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d118/JSchweikhart/4-9-06%20Paskenta/305fc28b.jpg

wow thats one nasty paint job with the white dots.

Coors, yes the bed rubs the tires at full stuff, but I designed it that way. I wanted the lowest C.O.G. possible on this thing, so I made the bed as low as reasonably possible. Most of the rear travel is droop, so using the tire as a bump stop seems to be working fine. Nice rig btw, I was looking at those pics on another thread.

Thanks
The paint job kind of got messed up when I got married last week and it didn't want to wash off so well. I will probably just repaint it.

I didn't really mean the grill, I meant the bezel. Well the whole front part looks nice.. you should see mine, and I didn't even get to beat it! :D

Coors, congrats!! was that the ride for the wedding party?! haha

Updates:

Well, I'm a bit over 3K and 3mo by now, but things are coming along nicely. I've gotten my 351w 98% done, and it is read to drop in the chassis. Since the stock cab was so rusted I got a different cab repaired the rust on it (floorpans and cab corner), painted it, and it is ready to install. The frame was powerwashed, degreased and painted, new cab mount pearches were fabricated for the front of the cab, and the tranny and t-case were removed for a rebuild (more on that later). On to the pics....

A little tom foolery before dissasembly:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/255ddfea.jpg

Now on to business:

Even my 'good cab' was pretty rusty, floor pans were cut out and replaced, the entire floor of the truck will be covered in roll on bedliner:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/0195f6b2.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/2859a7b7.jpg

Here is the cab completed:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/a39c7453.jpg

While this was going on we were also building the motor at my buddies shop. Motor is a 351w out of a '78 T-bird that was throughly shot (had to go .060 over to get the cylinders true.) Motor specs as follows:

'78 351w, .060" overbore
-Speedpro flat top pistons, 9:25:1 CR
-E7TE heads, ported, polished, bowl-blended
-ARP rod, main and head bolts
-Comp extreme 4x4 cam, 206/214 durration @ 050, .448/.483" lift
-Crane roller rockers
-Edelbrock Performer intake

For simplicity I'll also be running a Proform HEI distributor and a GM 1-wire alternator, read: only one switched wire to run the engine, and one wire from the alt. to battery. No more ford duraspark crap and voltage regulator, etc littering my engine bay. Along with this I completely revamped the stock wiring harness, hacking out about 20' of useless wiring. Things are much neater now.

Heres a pic of the motor on the stand, sorry I did get more pics, I was too busy wrenching:flipoff2:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/91e42a76.jpg

As for the NP435 and NP205 I removed them with all intent of rebuilding both, mostly just to stop the profuse oil leakage. After spliting the t-case and tranny I found this:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/3dc7ac2b.jpg
:eek:

So the tranny is fawked, no sense in rebuilding this one since the whole back half of the casing is cracked. The only thing holding the top together is the aluminum cover. I slaped some RTV on it, bolted the units back together and droped it back in the truck; I'll run it till it blows (I would have done something now, but I'm on a strict time restraint).

Option 1: Buy another 435, rebuild it and drop it and a 205 back in
Option 2: Another 435 with a 1356
Option 3. Say to heck with this setup all together, and drop a ZF and 1356 in

Any suggestions?

More updates will come after this weekend, lots more pics.

local junk yard and grab a np435, they are cheap and all over.

Wow, nasty. If I were you I'd just get another 435 just cause they work well and are cheap. Around here I could probly find one for $100 if I shopped around. A lot of times they won't even need rebuilding.

edit:

Nice looking engine job! I'm in-progress on my first rebuild .. never realized how much work it was :)

Thanks, Yeah I guess I'll go with another 435 simplicities sake. I am still kicking around the idea of ditching the 205 for a 1356, that'd give me a 73:1 crawl ratio and it'd be much lighter to boot.

Wow that is a really nice looking engine. I'm jealous! :mad3:

Got a good bit more work done this weekend (thanks Tyler), although I didn't get the motor dropped in which I was really hoping to. Ran into a few issues with clutch fitment and motor mounts; hopefully next weekend all should go well and we'll finally get to hear this beast fire.

Completed motor:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/05937300.jpg

Sitting outside the shop, cab finally back on:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/7af46329.jpg

Me installing the flywheel, motor-mounts, etc:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/10dc842e.jpg

Painted the floor pan with roll-on bedliner, Dupli-color brand from Advance, $60 for the whole kit. It turned out real well, we'll see how durable it is:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/fd1e938d.jpg

Tube doors, just need to rig up a latch mechinism for them. I used the factory hinge pieces so the doors would hold themselves partially or fully open. Pull the pins and the factory doors go back on in about 30sec:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/deb6db39.jpg


Things left to do before its driveable:
-install motor and accessories
-exhaust
-paint and install front clip

Before its really wheelable:
-new brakes all around
-lock-rite in the D44
-sliders

More updates coming soon.

cab turnd out nice, keep up the good work

Man....that's lookin' pretty sweet!!

The only thing I see wrong with the motor is.....................




.....it isn't in MY truck!!:goofball:

Ran into a few issues with clutch fitment and motor mounts

hopefully you learned your lesson about fitting parts BEFORE the day you want to drop the motor in. you could have known about the motor mounts and the clutch months ago...:laughing: :flipoff2:

hopefully you learned your lesson about fitting parts BEFORE the day you want to drop the motor in. you could have known about the motor mounts and the clutch months ago...:laughing: :flipoff2:

Haha, thats definatly the case with the motor mounts. I never even took them out of the box before d-day, lol. Clutch, well that was just one of those quarky things that ford changed for no real reason (although I should have known better on that too). Thanks for the extra hand though, I'll be looking forward to when you're posting your '80 build-up on here.

Haha, thats definatly the case with the motor mounts. I never even took them out of the box before d-day, lol. Clutch, well that was just one of those quarky things that ford changed for no real reason (although I should have known better on that too). Thanks for the extra hand though, I'll be looking forward to when you're posting your '80 build-up on here.


yea me too!!! holy crap

http://www.sc4wda.org.vt.edu/forums/images/smiles/uglyhammer.gif

Man....that's lookin' pretty sweet!!

The only thing I see wrong with the motor is.....................




.....it isn't in MY truck!!:goofball:

We can build one for you.:grinpimp:

Just send us a good block, crank, rods, and check and we'll cook you up any thing you want.....

I'm really liking this thread . Sweet buildup!!
Where in VA are you?
I've got a similiar build goin on. Here she is.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/407127/fullsize/100_0929.jpg
Slim

how did the HF bender do on the sch 40? no kinking? i have heard that people say it kinks on bigger pipe, but i think they are confused with tube...b/c tube will kink in that. Anyway, i figure ill ask you since you bent the same size pipe that im going to use...and i have the same HF bender.

Thanks partsflyin. I'm located in SW. VA, mostly at Blacksburg (VT), but my home farm and shop are located in Grayson co, which is where I'm building the truck. BTW, what type of front springs are those, they look like they flex very well? Also what size tires are those, got a link to any build up pics?

....On to the buildup


GOT THE NEW MOTOR FIRED UP, HELL YEAH!!

So saturday night we pulled the truck out of the shop in preperation for the initial firing and break-in. Since I didn't have the front clip on by this point (nor any of the accessories on the motor), we had to rig every thing up as if we were starting it on an engine stand. Clamped the solinoid to the front coil bucket, ran all the grounds and cab power wire, connected everything to the battery (which was connected to a charger since theres not alt. yet), and lastly had a wire running directly from the battery to the HEI dizzy. The plumbing was similarly rigged, had a garden hose adapter that goes on the water pump intake, and a hose setup that discharges from the t-stat housing.

So by this time its about 9pm, everything seems to be ready to go, water and oiling systems primed, carb primed etc, go to fire it up and it wont start. Backfiring, blue flames out the headers, etc. After fiddling with several things for a while we discover that we have the timing 180* off, lol. One of the most common mistakes when starting a new engine and we completely overlooked it, oh well.

Get that fixed, and the thing fires right off. Ran it for about 30seconds and realized theres a huge spark show coming from inside the bellhousing!! Shut the motor down (which is bad durring break-in), and come to find out that the auto tranny dust shield that I used has a small hump in it thats contacting the flywheel, some short work and its fixed, start it up and its running again.

Runs about 3min more and the damn water hose blows off the pump due to the very high water pressure we have at the shop. Shut everything down real fast, get it fixed in about 30sec and its off running again. By this time were hopping that we don't have to shut it down again or the cam will be junk. Everything ran good for the rest of the 20min break in, now its time to hear this bad boy idle...

Idle it down to about 400rpms (which is about where I want it on the trail :smokin: ) and damn this thing thumps. Its got a tiny bit of a lope but nothing too extreme, should be ideal for crawling. Throttle responce is awsome too, I can't wait to wheel this motor!

After all is done we notice the paint hadn't been burnt of the #5 and 6 header tubes...haha, the damn thing was only running on 6 cylinders...no wonder it sounded like it had a little miss. Not sure what caused it, more than likely they were bad plugs or wires.

We have to get that little ignition problem fixed, add an adjustable vacuum advance and manual advance kit to the dizzy, find the Q-jet we want to run and she'll be ready to go.

Now on to some pics:

Motor after break-in, (don't laugh at my air cleaner, its temporary)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-1.jpg

Radiator support and inner fenders on:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-2.jpg

Clutch linkage setup:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-3.jpg

The clutch linkage isn't quite how I want it, but I think it will work for now. The fact that this truck was never available with a 351w and the fact that I had to use a hyd. clutch bellhousing and fork with manual linkages were all things that were working against me. Some grinding here and there, lengthend out the adjustment rod, and drilled the clutch fork for the rod and everything seems to be working ok. Only problem I forsee is that the clutch fork is a good bit shorter than the stock one, causing the release ratio to be pretty quick. I might have to fix this later.

Next weekend will finish the front clip, do a rear disc setup on the 9", maybe start fabbing my front bumper. I need to go through the front axle and install a lock-right in it, but I think I'll wait till its drivable and just do that in the parking lot of my apt. here in b'burg.


I have a 350mb video file of the engine start-up break in, idleing etc, but I can't figure out how to edit it down to about 2-3min where it'd be postable, anyone know?

snoop dogg, The HF type pipe bender works quite well I think. I made several 90* bends and kinking is minimal to non-existant. Ony thing it does that I don't like is that it makes little indentation where the roller wheels go, but for an $80 bender I can live with that.

I have heard of trouble with these things kinking tube and/or pipe, but it all comes down to the dies. Some fit better than others, and somtimes a tiny bit of grinding and shaping is needed for a perfect fit. I have seen someone successfully bend 2", .120 wall DOM on one of these with properly modded rollers and dies without much if any kinking. Bottom line, for sch40 pipe I think they work great, if you want to bend .120 wall tube get a regular bender. I will eventually get something like a JD2, but this works for now.

hey dude, the truck looks good w/ the rad support and inner wells installed. i'll get the plugs and wires looked at when i put the advance kits in the dist this week... orta have the pulleys installed or at least fit too...

I really like what you did with the back of the truck, looks good, what size channel did you use to replace the frame and how did you connect the two? I'll be doin somthing like that soon, i've patched mine twice, so this looks like my winter project. Thanks, Dave

Im not sure from the posted photos but it appears you still have the stock panhard rod on the front. These will bind the suspension and limit you some. If you can get a heim joint on the top frame end it will help some. Use a big one though.

Thanks for all the compliments.

wvmudder, the rear frame rails are 6"x2"x3/16" channel. We just made the frame rails straight because we really couldn't come up with any good reason to arch them like factory. Infact, having them straight made it all that much easier to fab the inboard rear springs and mounting the flat bed. As for attachment, 16 grade 8, 9/16" bolts hold the two halves together. Its also welded along the bottom and top. If I'd have been thinking ahead I'd have cut the frame rails at an angle so I could have welded them, welding a frame directly up and down will cause cracking (same with drilling holes directly above eachother.)

MOSS2, As of now I'm running a stock panhard bar. I was unaware of the binding issue, however I'll take note on that when I build a new one. Right now my dang coils are too stiff for the panhard bar to even become an issue. I have some 1.5", .250" wall tubing that I will be making a new tie rod, drag link and panhard bar out of, with 3/4" heim joints all around...I want something that I can push rocks with, lol.

how did you get the windsor motor to bolt into the frame brackets. i have a 351 and i cant seem to get it into my 74. i bought a 460 but still have to buy motor mounts

Well, it didn't go in easily by any means. Used 302 mounts for a mid 80's truck, and slid the drivetrain back all the way to the ends of the cross-member slots. At this point the motor was about a 1/4" from droping down into the frame horns, but we couldn't quite get it, solution...put the hi-lift jack between the motor and front x-member and mash it back a 1/4" till it dropped down. Thats not the way I like to do things, but we didn't have many more options. It works and everything is rubber mounted so I think it will be fine. We fought with getting this motor in for almost 3hrs...it was determined it was not going in there...we showed it otherwise, lol.

Vertical, the front springs are 6" superflex coils from jeffs and the rears are 6" deavers(duff prototypes). The tires are 38x13x16. We get these things rollin we'll have to get together and wheel them.
I'm about 45 min. from Blacksburg.
Heres the link to my supermotors pics.
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/1687/33542
Slim

partsflyin, I see you're from Ferrum! I spend a good bit of time down in Franklin county riding ATVs and groudhog hunting with one of my buddies that lives in Rocky mount. Since your from those parts I take it you've wheeled all the local spots (Prillimans switch, Chesnut mtn, etc?) Theres some dang good muddin up in those parts, bobcat trail is about the only thing around b'burg to wheel but there is some OK technical stuff there. Potts mtn is another place thats some pretty good crawling from what I hear, its about 45min north of b'burg...I've never been there yet but plan to go as soon as the rig is done. I'm also planing to take it to FC for a little 'In-depth' mud testing, I'll let you know when we're down that way. Do you know any of the SC4WDA boys?

I to am suprised that the motor mounts were so tough to figure out.

I know in my buddies 83' we went from a 302 to a 400, and it was as simple as replacing the bellhousing, and the stock 78' truck mounts dropped right in where the 302 used to be. it seems it would work the otherway as well.

also, why didn't you just swap the complete hydro setup in there, seems like it wouldn't be much more work, and is sooooo much nicer..

Jrod, I don't have any explination for why the motor was so tough to go in, maybe the tranny x-member didn't get slotted enough at the factory, IDK.

As far as the hydro setup (assuming your refering to a hyd. clutch), I avoid Ford hyd clutch setups like the plauge. I have never had one that works properly after it gets some age on it. I tore a hole through the firewall of my F-250 because it got so hard to push/had to push it so far. I've replaced that whole system and after a while its gone bad again, and since its non adjustable I'm stuck mashing it through the floor to get it to dissengage. Once I get the right clutch fork on my '79 I know the manual setup will work, its simple, reliable, and fully adjustable.

partsflyin, I see you're from Ferrum! I spend a good bit of time down in Franklin county riding ATVs and groudhog hunting with one of my buddies that lives in Rocky mount. Since your from those parts I take it you've wheeled all the local spots (Prillimans switch, Chesnut mtn, etc?) Theres some dang good muddin up in those parts, bobcat trail is about the only thing around b'burg to wheel but there is some OK technical stuff there. Potts mtn is another place thats some pretty good crawling from what I hear, its about 45min north of b'burg...I've never been there yet but plan to go as soon as the rig is done. I'm also planing to take it to FC for a little 'In-depth' mud testing, I'll let you know when we're down that way. Do you know any of the SC4WDA boys?
Heck yeah! I learned to wheel on Prillamans switch its about 6-8 minutes from my house. After I got a license I discovered chesnut Mt., been to bobcat a couple times.(have some pics on my supermotors)
Have ridden shotgun at Potts, well worth the trip in my opinion.
I'll holler at ya when I get ready for the shakedown (Potts Mt. maybe)run maybe by early October.
Haven't got the chance to meet anyone from SC4WDA , do you wheel with them?
Slim

Yup, I'm a member of SC4WDA, real good bunch. The club usually goes to Uharrie twice a year, up to Big Dogs at least once and other misc. small trips throught the year. We try to wheel one of the local trails (Bobcat, Potts, mtn lake, etc) about once a week and whenever it snows. Our club meetings are every 1st and 3rd sunday evening on the Tech campus, let me know if you want any more info, ofcourse non-members are also welcome to wheel on our trips too.

I'll *probably* have the rig wheelable by oct. for a run up to pots, I won't have the front end locked yet, but from what I've seen the only place I'd need that would be the big ledge.

I'm not sure what the mudholes are like up on Prillimans now, but last time I was up there most of them looked pretty bad, I don't think I have nearly enough tire for most of them. Regardless though, I am planning to wheel down there a good bit as I stated before, I'll let you know when I'm down that way.

That looks like a fun truck, nice work with the flatbed. If you don't mind me asking, where did you get the shackle bushings from?

Thanks. The bushings were from Napa, I wish I had written down what they were exactly. I believe they were spring bushings for an '85 Chevy 1-ton, not sure on that. I might have it in some of my receipts if you want me to look. They press fit perfectly into 1.5" tubing.

Got a good bit done this weekend, although not nearly as much as I needed to (trying to get it done by Oct. 8th for a wheeling trip). The rest of the front clip is on, got the D44 'rebuilt', and we built a new radius arm brake line setup that provides unlimited travel without brake lines interfering. My buddy Terrence was the one who came up with this idea and I have to admit its pretty bitchin'.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-11.jpg

First we flatted the stock axle brake hose mount and drilled a 7/16" hole. This allowed us to put a stock '79 F-150 rear hose in the place of the original one:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-10.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-4.jpg


This hose runs over to the driver side radius arm and is attached to the arm with a small bracket. I made two of these brackets for each end of the radius arm, they are pretty simple angle brackets, 3/4" hole and a small slot to allow the hard line to pass through:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-7.jpg


The hose that runs from the front axle attaches to the rad. arm with the little bracket and a large zip tie just to take out some extra play. Hard line is run down the radius arm to another bracket:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-5.jpg

At the frame end it simply loops up to another bracket on the frame, then a hard line runs up to the proportioning valve:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-8.jpg

That little short hose is Advance Auto P/N H38378. If anyone knows what vehicle application that goes to I'd like to know. It'd make getting that hose much easier in the future if I blow one on the trail or something.

Here’s a pic of the truck as it sits:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-9.jpg

Things left to do:
-finish wiring, including installing a relay to run HEI
-new brake shoes and bleeder screws for rear brakes (temporary until I have time to do rear discs)
-put latches on tube doors
-minor interior work (screw down tunnel cover, shifter boots, etc)
-paint and install the hood and other small parts
-build a front bumper
-rebuild and install Q-jet
-figure out whats wrong with #5 and 6 cylinders in the 351w (probably needs the rockers shimmed a little)

Overall theres nothing too huge left to do, but all these dang small things sure do add up.

Great work!!! I love that truck....can't wait to see some trail pics.

Thanks, I'm getting real anxious to wheel this thing. If all goes well I should have it on the trails in couple weeks.

BTT for anyone else with radius arms that wants to build a similar brakeline setup.

nice idea fpor the brake lines

Thanks, I think it'll work out well. At first I was a little concerned about the veunerability of the line running up the arm, but I guess its really no more than the line running over the axle itself.

if anything it looks like a better then stock setup, it will see less movement up there at the rubber line then mounting it to the axle

edit: the only error i can see is if a tree limb catches it from where it goes from the arm to the pumkin, maybe route it over to the coil spring then run it up the arm?

Updates:

I got a good bit done this weekend, although not quite as much as I'd have liked to (as usual.)

-tube doors are finished, painted and installed
-front bumper is completed, painted and installed
-all the accessories are on the motor and working
-wiring is 100% done
-finished up minor body mount things
-installed d-shafts

Whats left before its out on the trail:
-get compression on #5 and 6 cylinders
-rebuild and install Q-jet
-install master cylinder
-lengthen clutch fork (needs a slower throw ratio)
-paint and install hood
-install radiator
-exhaust

Last weekend I started the bumper which took longer than I thought it would to build.

Bumper in progress:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-12.jpg
(a mig welder would be really nice)

Finished bumper:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-17.jpg
I originally stated that I didn't want a prerunner style bumper, but after looking at many options I decided that this would be light, practical and fairly easy to build (I was right about everything but the last part, lol).

I wanted the bumper tucked in as close as possible to the truck and I'm pretty pleased with it:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-16.jpg
Eventually I'll tuck a winch in that area, probably will have to cut it back into the grille a bit.

Next was to install the accessories on the motor. First order of business was the PS pump. The bracket off the 351M was a universal one and worked fine other than the fact that it hit my oil press. sending unit. A little modification and it bolted right up with perfect clearance:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-13.jpg

Picture of pump installed and the notching culprit:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-15.jpg

Installing the GM 1-wire alternator took a bit more bracket trickery, but it wasn't too bad:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-14.jpg
That setup consists of a 351M alt. bracket (lengthend top mounting position), a 351w adjusting bar (ground for alt. fan clearance) , and a custom length spacer. I also used studs to attach everything on this bracket so the whole setup can be removed without pulling the fan and water pump pulley.

Heres the reason why I spent all the trouble rigging up a 1-wire alternator and HEI dizzy, this is my entire engine electrical system:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-18.jpg
:flipoff2:

Hopefully this coming weekend I'll get most of the rest of the stuff done and get this thing out on the trails in a couple weeks. :grinpimp:

I see you have one of the "newer" ford power steering pumps. I just learned this but some came with a saginaw pump which doesn't groan and apparently works better (same one gms use). I just lucked out cause the engine I'm swapping in has one on it and I was curious.

I see you have one of the "newer" ford power steering pumps. I just learned this but some came with a saginaw pump which doesn't groan and apparently works better (same one gms use). I just lucked out cause the engine I'm swapping in has one on it and I was curious.

The '78 250 I have, has the Saginaw "ham can" power steering pump on it. The PO swapped in a 460, but I don't know if someone swapped it in, (I'm the 4th owner) or if the truck came from the factory that way. Either way, I was pretty happy. It has that typical 70's one finger power steering. :smokin:

Yeah, I don't know what to do about the PS pump, its basically shot and needing replacement. It squeals when you load it up and the PO had already been running ATF in it to quiet it down. If theres something better that I can bolt right in I'd be all for it. What year GM saginaw pump should I look for, and what vehicle?

Well I'm sure they came factory on some fords. They look like a can of ham just like they say. Hmm.. here's an article on it actually:

http://ford.off-road.com/ford/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=198388

The top picture is what you're looking for.. it's obvious once you start looking around.

I think in fords they mostly came in vans? Might be hard to find a stock bracket for the 351W, I have no idea. I built a 300 I6 and the bracket was stock.

Thanks for the link. I have seen those before, didn't know anything about them though.

Yeah I didn't know jack about it till the other day when I noticed they were different and decided to do some research.. There's the saginaw, there's a ford-thompson (which I think is older?) and a C2, which is what I think you have there... I think :). Apparently there's a C3 on newer vehicles but I don't pay much attention to anything after the 80s :)

Actually I have 2 saginaws.. the other came off another 400 from a truck. Probably original.. maybe it's a lot like other ford stuff.. just whatever they had lying around :).

I love that bumper! Nice job! I've been looking for one just like that for my '97 with no luck whatsoever...

I love that bumper! Nice job! I've been looking for one just like that for my '97 with no luck whatsoever...

Thanks. That was kinda the boat I was in. All the prerunner bumpers were light and flimsy looking with no tow points or winch mounting areas, and trail bumpers (winch bumpers) were all heavy and cumbersome looking to me. Not to mention I don't believe buying anything that I can easily make. :grinpimp:

For anyone wondering that bumper weighs about 40-50lbs, I can easily carry it in one hand.

UPDATES:

-radiator is in
-clutch fork is lengthend and works much better
-master cylinder is installed and brakes are bled
-hood is painted but not installed yet

We tore into the motor and found what we expected. The rockers on #5 and 6 are too low and holding the valves open which is killing the compression. We loosend them slightly and had compression. Terrance is supposed to be either shimming the rockers or making custom length pushrods this week so hopefully that will fix the problem. I have no idea why this was a problem, my guess is either the junkyard block or remanned heads were deck milled at a slight angle or something, IDK.

All thats left is to install the hood, rear add-a-leafs, and get exhaust on it. Sometime before it gets 'really cold' I need to get the real doors finished and get the heater box in it, but that can wait a month or so. Hopefully by this coming weekend we'll have it out of the shop and driving around, probably wont get exhaust on it till the exhaust shop can do it however.

For those who are interested:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/351wdyno.jpg

Can't trust those DD numbers exactly, but they should be pretty close. :smokin:

I've been working on the rig a good bit lately so I decided it would be good to update this thread.

Here's a short vid that one of our club members took of me on one of our local trails. I'll be posting the next stages of the build soon, so be patient.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r166/shmitch2/Bobcat%20January%2014%202007/th_MatvsSpecialTrail.jpg (http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r166/shmitch2/Bobcat%20January%2014%202007/?action=view&current=MatvsSpecialTrail.flv)

After wheeling the rig for a couple months the t-case has begun to leak profusely so I decided it was time for a rebuild. Naturally, while the case was out I decided to twin stick it as well.

I decided that the bearings were probably still good so I just ordered a seal kit (OEM New Process kit), from bronco graveyard for $32.

As most of you know the 205 is one heavy SOB so I decided to build a tranny jack instead of trying to lower it out by hand.

Here's the tranny jack I built, it cost about $60 in materials and raises from ~6" up to 20" :

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-7.jpg

T-case being disassembled, what a mess:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-8.jpg

After rebuilding the t-case it was time to grind the shift rail for the twin stick conversion. I just used an angle grinder to grind it down, just taking a tiny bit at a time. Here's the modified shift rail:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-10.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-11.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-12.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-13.jpg

That's all for now, tomorrow I will cover how I made the shift linkages, and shifters which mount in the factory location.

good thread

looks good - how does that 351 move that beast - ? - need to pick out a engine soon - was going bb but - that looks sweet

looks good - how does that 351 move that beast - ? - need to pick out a engine soon - was going bb but - that looks sweet

It moves it quite well, I was very happy with how it turned out. Its pretty fun on the street, it'll roll smoke off the Q78's all the way through 2nd, and its even better on the trail. I never thought a small block could have decent torque, but this motor idles at about 500rpms and lugs like a beast. It would have been simpler to drop in a BB, but I wanted the weight savings that a small block provides.

Here's the details on the twin stick shifters & linkages:

First I cut the factory link bar in half, flipped the rear shift bar, and ground down and reinstalled the front shift bar. I used the factory hole in the rear shift bar, and made a new hole in the front shift bar(had to cut it with a torch since this piece is apparently hardened and I didn't have the proper bits to go through it.)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-14.jpg


Next was the linkages. The linkage on the left was the factory one, the only change to it was to heat and straighten it. The linkage on the right is the one I made, using 1/2" round rod.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-15.jpg


Here's the completed linkages and bottom of the shifter assembly. I cut the bottom half off the factory shift lever assembly and used it for the rear shifter (the inner one). Also, I cut off the excess bushing/tube on it and used it for the bushing on the new front shift lever (outer.) The outer shift lever was made using 1/4" plate. Both shifters hinge on the factory bolt, and used the factory plastic bushings.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-16.jpg

Here's the completed shifters, made from 1/2" rod.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-17.jpg


Next was to cut out an adapter plate to mount the shifter boot into the factory location:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-18.jpg


Here's a picture of the final installation. I used a Dana 300 twinstick boot which fit perfectly around the 1/2" dia. shifters. I welded a fine thread bolt (can't remember dia.) to the top of each stick so the factory shift knobs would screw back on:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-19.jpg
(I still need one more factory shift knob, so if anyone has one let me know)


Next step is building a 1.5" .250 wall tie-rod and drag link using GM 1-ton TRE's. Hopefully I'll get to that this weekend.

Awesome build up. The bed looks great. How's the brake line holding up to abuse?

Awesome build up. The bed looks great. How's the brake line holding up to abuse?

Thanks,

So far the brake line setup is working great. One night I had to turn around in a thicket of 10' tall saplings, they were getting pushed over and broken off, then I had to back up through them really jamming them under the truck. If there was anything that would have ripped it loose it would have been that and it was fine.

Maybe I missed it somewhere, but have measured how much clearance you have?

Maybe I missed it somewhere, but have measured how much clearance you have?

Clearance under what part of the truck?

I also forgot to add that I recently put Q78-15 Swamper TSL's on the rig (roughly 36x11's). The 34x10.50-15's were just too small for the truck. Recent pic of the rig with the new meats:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-22.jpg

truck looks kick ass do you build bumpers for others?

1tonF100;6368276]truck looks kick ass do you build bumpers for others?

Thanks. I will fab stuff for others, PM me with what you're thinking about.

Sweet build. Thank for showing it.

If nobody's offered a 205 shift knob yet, I've got one you can have. PM me.

yeah i also have a extra shift knobs and i'm in ohio

gotta love Special trail Matt... you gonna be at the fire at Jasons?

Truck looks good.

Thanks for the compliments.

gotta love Special trail Matt... you gonna be at the fire at Jasons?

Nope, regretfully I can't be there, I'll be at home working and wrenching on the rig. How long till you take the big blue dodge through special trail? So far I've been the only full-size to go through it that I know of :grinpimp:

Colorodo Ron, its 22" under the t-case, that's the only measurement I have off the top of my head.

Thanks for the compliments.



Nope, regretfully I can't be there, I'll be at home working and wrenching on the rig. How long till you take the big blue dodge through special trail? So far I've been the only full-size to go through it that I know of :grinpimp:


im gonna get some tube on it first, sliders, bumper, etc. the hardest part for me would be the stuff leading up to it in that narrow area. the hill is cake. :flipoff2:

im gonna get some tube on it first, sliders, bumper, etc. the hardest part for me would be the stuff leading up to it in that narrow area. the hill is cake. :flipoff2:

Don't let the leaning tree over the creek bed take out the roof of your skyscraper :flipoff2: But seriously, I don't think you'll have much trouble with it except for a couple tight spots in the creek and above the hill climb.

Here's another vid of the hill climb from a different angle for yalls watching enjoyment:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o134/maybs-graphic/Bobcat%20Jan%2014%202007/th_mvi_0244.jpg (http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o134/maybs-graphic/Bobcat%20Jan%2014%202007/?action=view&current=mvi_0244.flv)

(yes I know the front flex suck, hopefully some new JBG superflex coils will be under it soon)

you running open or l/s diffs?

Open in the front, spool in the back. Probably gonna keep it that way for reliability/durability.

iam running l/s in both and will probably spool the back and leave the l/s up front.

hows the spool on the road with no bed?

I also forgot to add that I recently put Q78-15 Swamper TSL's on the rig (roughly 36x11's). The 34x10.50-15's were just too small for the truck. Recent pic of the rig with the new meats:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/Misc-22.jpg

the Q78s complete the look man...:smokin: Love those tires... I have a set of Q78s on the front of my mud truck... Truck looks killer, Ive enjoyed your build thread... Hopefully our paths will cross on the trail in the very near future...:grinpimp:

It moves it quite well, I was very happy with how it turned out. Its pretty fun on the street, it'll roll smoke off the Q78's all the way through 2nd, and its even better on the trail. I never thought a small block could have decent torque, but this motor idles at about 500rpms and lugs like a beast. It would have been simpler to drop in a BB, but I wanted the weight savings that a small block provides.

a note on the small block from the engine builder...... torque in a small block is all knowing how to match port sizes to cid. the heads on that motor are early 90's ford windsor heads from F150's and such. smaller runners provide more port velocity at low RPM and make more bottom end torque due to increased cylinder fill at the RPMs. also matt did a hell of a job picking out a cam that would utilize the heads. and a word on the flat tops and roller rockers :flipoff2: ....TOLD YA SO!!!!

Great truck looking truck! I'd get at least a L/S for the front through.

iam running l/s in both and will probably spool the back and leave the l/s up front.

hows the spool on the road with no bed?

To be honest I don't notice it at all during normal driving. The only time when its not as good is in the rain or snow, it tends to get a little squirrelly then.

the Q78s complete the look man...:smokin: Love those tires... I have a set of Q78s on the front of my mud truck... Truck looks killer, Ive enjoyed your build thread... Hopefully our paths will cross on the trail in the very near future...:grinpimp:

Thanks, I love the look of tall skinnys on rigs of this vintage (plus and old school buildup deserves an old school tire size :smokin: ) Where exactly are you from/where do you wheel at?

a note on the small block from the engine builder...... torque in a small block is all knowing how to match port sizes to cid. the heads on that motor are early 90's ford windsor heads from F150's and such. smaller runners provide more port velocity at low RPM and make more bottom end torque due to increased cylinder fill at the RPMs. also matt did a hell of a job picking out a cam that would utilize the heads. and a word on the flat tops and roller rockers :flipoff2: ....TOLD YA SO!!!!

Yes, I do have to thank you for making me go with the flat tops and roller rockers (along with the GM HEI, and GM 1-wire alternator). I'm still not to sure on the q-jet though, if it leaves me stranded in the woods one more time...:flipoff2:

Great truck looking truck! I'd get at least a L/S for the front through.

Thanks. I've been thinking about that, I'm afraid as hard as I wheel this thing I'd burn the clutches out of an LSD the first time out. What types of LSD's have yall been running that hold up well and actually work?

if you need a hand finding parts to replace that GM junk I can help out.
you need a good 3G alternator and a duraspark ignition, for a carb I would go OHG propane

Good build except one thing. How much did you spend on that motor? Thats a d60 right there. Money where it counts man.

if you need a hand finding parts to replace that GM junk I can help out.
you need a good 3G alternator and a duraspark ignition, for a carb I would go OHG propane

Compare the amount of wiring in my truck to your average ford and you'll see why I went with the GM stuff. :flipoff2:

Good build except one thing. How much did you spend on that motor? Thats a d60 right there. Money where it counts man.

I've kicked around the idea of a front 60, but have decided against it. In fact, I don't believe that I'd run one under this rig if it was given to me. I'm trying to keep this rig as light as possible, with the most GC, on modest sized tires, so a D44 fits the bill just fine. I also don't ever plan on locking the front so I think it will hold up ok. As for spending the coin on the motor, every time I drive it I know I made the right choice, its an absolute blast to drive and wheel.

I still see running a POS HEI as a loss over a duraspark and the 3G alternator is much nicer then the Delco.
my wiring is still ugly but I can see a few ways to clean the mess up when I get time to address it.

a d60 is the best upgrade for a 4x4, light is not a good thing when it cripples reliability but with 36s you are on the edge of the d44 service.
I broke with heavy 36s and no power but locked

I couldnt get the ford rear hose to fit in the front at the frame end.
I added a 16" extension and had to use a style that was captured with a threaded end rather then a clip

I still see running a POS HEI as a loss over a duraspark and the 3G alternator is much nicer then the Delco.
my wiring is still ugly but I can see a few ways to clean the mess up when I get time to address it.

a d60 is the best upgrade for a 4x4, light is not a good thing when it cripples reliability but with 36s you are on the edge of the d44 service.
I broke with heavy 36s and no power but locked

I couldnt get the ford rear hose to fit in the front at the frame end.
I added a 16" extension and had to use a style that was captured with a threaded end rather then a clip

I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree then. I can see absolutely no advantage of duraspark over HEI, but thats just me. I like things that are simple and work. I don't know what the 3G alternator is, but I like my 1-wire GM unit just fine, 63 amp unit for $50, 1-wire to connect it.

As for the axle, I don't follow the thinking of the masses. A D44 is just fine for what I need, I don't believe that a D60 is the answer for everything like so many believe. The one and only reason why my D44 is holding up fine is that its open, and its going to stay that way. Given the same size tires and same weight rig, 150 hp and a front locker is going to break a D44 much quicker than 300hp and an open front, just going from personal observations here.

I blew my front d44 up on 35's and open. :(

better modify your stock shafts for full circle clips at the very least
the parts are too small for wheeling and the flexing of the yokes that allow stock c clips to pop out is strong evidence of that.

my stock large case 3g puts out close to 80 amps at idle but I did pay more then $50 for a new one rather then $25 for one from the wreckers out of a 96 Taurus.

I owned a chevy 4x4 for a long time and there is nothing on one that is better then Ford stuff.
the aftermarket likes to push chev junk for some reason and a lot of people fall for it.

You built everything out of sch. 40 correct? Looks like I need to get me one of those HF benders, i cannot afford a JD2 unfortunately.

better modify your stock shafts for full circle clips at the very least
the parts are too small for wheeling and the flexing of the yokes that allow stock c clips to pop out is strong evidence of that.

my stock large case 3g puts out close to 80 amps at idle but I did pay more then $50 for a new one rather then $25 for one from the wreckers out of a 96 Taurus.

I owned a chevy 4x4 for a long time and there is nothing on one that is better then Ford stuff.
the aftermarket likes to push chev junk for some reason and a lot of people fall for it.

I'm planning on installing 760x u-joints w/ full circle clips in the very near future, which should take care of most u-joint related problems. I don't really care if I break shafts or hubs (I carry trail spares), but I'd rather not break u-joints which can take out knuckles.

You built everything out of sch. 40 correct? Looks like I need to get me one of those HF benders, i cannot afford a JD2 unfortunately.

Yup, its all sch. 40 (the good structural sch. 40, not black pipe from lowes). The bender I'm using is actually the 12-ton model from Northern Tool, which I feel has slightly better quality dies than the HF one. I'm not sure on that, but from what I've read on here I think they are better. I've never had one kink a piece of pipe, and they make nice smooth bends with minimal distortion.

I'm planning on installing 760x u-joints w/ full circle clips in the very near future, which should take care of most u-joint related problems. I don't really care if I break shafts or hubs (I carry trail spares), but I'd rather not break u-joints which can take out knuckles.

It's been my experience that the U joint is where most breaks occur. The joint fails, the ears on the axles clash, and then they play out making it a Bitch! to change out on the trail side. That is if it you stop in time and it doesn't open up enough to take out the ball joint.

I've also seen open axles brake u joints more often than locked axles. For instance, a similar hill climb to your vid with the rear spinning, the front digging, one front tire climbs a rock or stump and slows. That makes the other tire spin that much faster. One good bounce and the free spinning wheel catches traction, then PING! What was that?

It's been my experience that the U joint is where most breaks occur. The joint fails, the ears on the axles clash, and then they play out making it a Bitch! to change out on the trail side. That is if it you stop in time and it doesn't open up enough to take out the ball joint.

I've also seen open axles brake u joints more often than locked axles. For instance, a similar hill climb to your vid with the rear spinning, the front digging, one front tire climbs a rock or stump and slows. That makes the other tire spin that much faster. One good bounce and the free spinning wheel catches traction, then PING! What was that?

Yeah, I don't doubt that the joints will fail first, I'm just hoping that when they do they don't take out the knuckle or ball joints. I carry a spare set of shafts with u-joints already in them, so a shaft/joint breakage can be fixed with a shaft swap in about 30min or less. I still firmly believe that an open front creates less breakage than a locked front, regardless of the situation, but I guess time will tell. As you can see I'm not afraid of the skinny pedal, so when something does let go yall will be the first to know.


I'm working on compiling a cost break down/ parts list for the buildup since some might be wondering what the cost of this buildup is (I went a bit over the $3K limit that I set at the beginning:emb: )

Heres the parts list, it seems as though I've gone way over my original budget of $3000. :laughing:

'79 F-150 SWB $500

Engine:

Junkyard 351w long
block $200
Speed Pro Rebuild Kit
w/ 9.25:1 pistons $350
Edlebrock Performer
Intake $176
Summit Shorty Headers $150
ARP head, main and rod
bolts $130
Machine shop work $300
Custom pushrods $40
Remanned E7TE heads $230
roller Rockers $160
Proform HEI dizzy $150
Truck Oil pan $85
Carb adapter $15
Q-jet $0
Q-jet rebuild kit $15
14"x3" Round K&N $36
Air filter riser and
stud kit $10
Comp Extreme 4x4 cam $115
Ford Racing tall valve
covers $100

Motor Total: $2262
Misc:

GM-1 wire alternator $50
3 core Heavy Duty
Radiator $120
Starter $50
Water pump $25
P/S pressure hose $17
Brake pads & shoes $36
All new brake lines $85
4 cheapo shocks $65
Stuff for twin-stick $30
one 15x8 rim (for spare) $45
4- Q78-15 TSL's $759
Aluminum tool box $0
Misc. bolts & hardware $70
LED tailights $80
1 gal. Balck Rustoleum $30
10 cans of Duplicolor
Royal Blue $45
5 cans Rustoleum Primer $30
2 bottles of rust
converter $15
Duplicolor bedliner kit $40
4 3/4" shackles $52
Gas tank $100
Misc. Exhaust bends&
pipe $30

Drivetrain:

Flywheel $58
11" clutch $91
NP205 seal kit $30
9" rebuild kit $90
4.10 R&P for 9" $130
31sp 9" shaft from JY $30
297x u-joints for front
axle $30
1330 u-joint for rear
axle $15


Cab/Frame/Suspension/Fabbed parts:

'78 F-150 Parts donor truck
(for the cab, etc) $80
Floor pans and cab
corner $110
3 sticks of 1.5" sch 40. $192
7x7' sheet of 1/8 plate $180
2"x.125 channel,
one stick $30
2x3x.25" Angle, 15' $40
6"x3/16" channel,
one stick $65
Cab mounts $50
4" Skyjacker lift coils $130
2" rear add-a-leafs $65
u-bolts $15
C-wedge & Radius arm
bushings $30
Spring bushings $20

GrandTotal: $6017

.

better modify your stock shafts for full circle clips at the very least
the parts are too small for wheeling and the flexing of the yokes that allow stock c clips to pop out is strong evidence of that.

I was there when those videos were filmed, and I've ridden in this truck a lot, and the open 44 seems to be doing well for him. i can't count the number of times he's let that 351 breathe deep and dug for a while and it always comes out ok. I'm building a similar truck ('80) with a locked front 44 and I'm going to have to be very careful, but he seems to be doing just fine with what he has.

I was there when those videos were filmed, and I've ridden in this truck a lot, and the open 44 seems to be doing well for him. i can't count the number of times he's let that 351 breathe deep and dug for a while and it always comes out ok. I'm building a similar truck ('80) with a locked front 44 and I'm going to have to be very careful, but he seems to be doing just fine with what he has.

Yeah, so far so good (don't want to jinx myself). I've had all four wheels of the truck hopping off the ground, full throttle double low, (climbing a 4' vertical ledge) and nothing let go so I have pretty good faith in the setup. I still carry a full set of trail spares though (speaking of which, I need that chromo cross pin before Big Dogs, Tyler).

great thread and nice truck i have a similar truck and have been running a hpd44 and i am runnin it open but the damn thing keeps spittin caps and even tried a axle with full circle clips it broke at the spline i guess you can have too much motor:shaking: oh well will be upgrading to yukon axles and superjoints very soon:D

great thread and nice truck i have a similar truck and have been running a hpd44 and i am runnin it open but the damn thing keeps spittin caps and even tried a axle with full circle clips it broke at the spline i guess you can have too much motor:shaking: oh well will be upgrading to yukon axles and superjoints very soon:D

What motor and tire combo are you running?

:shaking: People like you are who i avoid wheeling with. My buddy runs a dodge with a stock 318 and 35's and constantly blows shafts. It sucks having to wait for him to fix his shit that hes to fucking cheap to upgrade.

:shaking: People like you are who i avoid wheeling with. My buddy runs a dodge with a stock 318 and 35's and constantly blows shafts. It sucks having to wait for him to fix his shit that hes to fucking cheap to upgrade.

wow, whered that come from? Matt knows what hes doin' and he knows the limits of his truck im sure. He always carrys spares and plenty of tools. When we wheel as a club, if anybody breaks something, everybody stops and trys to help, rather than just being pissed that somebody broke something. This truck has definitely proven itself as well as the driver.

Lets not say unneeded things, cuz it just makes you look like a dumbass:shaking:

wow, whered that come from? Matt knows what hes doin' and he knows the limits of his truck im sure. He always carrys spares and plenty of tools. When we wheel as a club, if anybody breaks something, everybody stops and trys to help, rather than just being pissed that somebody broke something. This truck has definitely proven itself as well as the driver.

Lets not say unneeded things, cuz it just makes you look like a dumbass:shaking:

and you can fit how many hands in to change an axle shaft? Everyone claims they "know their limits." Yet everyone always seems to push them and break somthing.
Dont get me wrong everyone is bound to break, but I'd rather someone broke a d60 shaft giving it complete hell, then somone break a d44 shaft on flat ground because they didn't want to pony up for a d60.:flipoff2:

In example one buddy has a chevy with a built 350 on 44's. He had a d44, broke it a few times, upgraded to a d60, broke that a few times, and now is upgrading to rocks.
While the other idiot is trying to still figure out that 35" sx's eat d44 shit for lunch.:rolleyes:

Don't be "That guy".

What motor and tire combo are you running?

450 hp 510 ft lb 351m c6 205 4.10 and 35x15.5x15 boggers.....i know the guy i bought the truck from went wayyyyy overboard with the motor and i tried to put a smaller cam in it to reduce the hp(didnt help much)...if i dont build a explorer i am going to build a 300 6 and fuel inject it a little less weight and a lot less torque i have never seen a situation where i needed near about as much motor as my truck has(although it is fun when playing in the mudbogs)but it is really troublesome when you are in the rocks and you get a little heavy on the right pedal it breaks something in the front end in the past 6 months i have broke 7 axles 4 u joints and one driveshaft...but it was fun doing it....i have officially ran out of used spare axles so it is time to upgrade to chromoly and superjoints:shaking:

i have officially ran out of used spare axles so it is time to upgrade to chromoly and superjoints:shaking:


I did that as well and now have 4 d44s with no shafts in the yard.
much harder to sell

:shaking: People like you are who i avoid wheeling with. My buddy runs a dodge with a stock 318 and 35's and constantly blows shafts. It sucks having to wait for him to fix his shit that hes to fucking cheap to upgrade.

People who have bad attitudes are who I avoid wheeling with :flipoff2: I can change a shaft in under 30min, although so far I haven't had one let go on the trail. All the haters can say whatever they want, but I've been wheeling the absolute piss out of this rig for the past 6mo and no breakage on the front axle and I'm running crappy brute force 297x joints and no full-circle clips (I am going to upgrade to 760x's and full-circle clips soon though). When I start having a lot of problems I'll change my setup, but just because someone on the intraweb says my setup won't work is no reason for me to change anything. (also look at halogrinder, same axle, more motor and much more tire and no D44 breakage)

450 hp 510 ft lb 351m c6 205 4.10 and 35x15.5x15 boggers....

Damn, that is a good bit of motor and tire. I'm pushing 400lb-ft and Q78's so thats a good bit less, heck the tires I'm running are only 10.80" wide. I also think the light weight of my rig helps the situation, its ~4600lbs.

doesnt he break the 9" at the first sign of dirt?
so no chance to break a d44

doesnt he break the 9" at the first sign of dirt?
so no chance to break a d44

Xeleventybillion

Somone on the intraweb didn't say it wont work. The laws of physics says it wont. 30 minutes to change a shaft eh? Thats 30 minutes of wheeling you'd be holding everyone else up on.

Not wanting to sound like we are bashing you, cause I think you have done an exellent job. You really have a nice rig, but like in your second video in post #88, if you had a cheap $300 EZ Detroit you could have walked up the hill without anywhere near the drama. I wheeled my rig for a long time with just a front locker and the factory trak loc rear. I could really make stuff look easy compared to the guys I wheeled with that were only locked on the rear. Though at times, like the ledge on the hill climb on the Danial trail in Uwharrie, I could get my front wheels on top and raise one rear tire enough to make the trak lok slip. Then I'd have to back up and hit it with a bit of monentum, but not like the open front fellas. I spooled the rear and now have no trouble crawling up when it is dry. Now when it has been raining everything changes. Then the switch back at the top of the hill, since your twin sticked, knock the front out of gear do the 3 point turn and you look like a pro.

doesnt he break the 9" at the first sign of dirt?
so no chance to break a d44


lol, those 9" axles are rather strong, i ran mine for ages with a mini spool in it till i finally stripped the splines on the shaft doing a burnout with no box in a parking lot on 31's, but in the dirt i never had it give me problems and id hold my 400 wide open to get up hills. now the d44 i had would fail before the 9"

Xeleventybillion

Somone on the intraweb didn't say it wont work. The laws of physics says it wont. 30 minutes to change a shaft eh? Thats 30 minutes of wheeling you'd be holding everyone else up on.

The laws of physics? :laughing: Does the fact that I've been wheeling the rig hard for 6mo with no axle breakage mean anything to you?

Not wanting to sound like we are bashing you, cause I think you have done an exellent job. You really have a nice rig, but like in your second video in post #88, if you had a cheap $300 EZ Detroit you could have walked up the hill without anywhere near the drama. I wheeled my rig for a long time with just a front locker and the factory trak loc rear. I could really make stuff look easy compared to the guys I wheeled with that were only locked on the rear. Though at times, like the ledge on the hill climb on the Danial trail in Uwharrie, I could get my front wheels on top and raise one rear tire enough to make the trak lok slip. Then I'd have to back up and hit it with a bit of monentum, but not like the open front fellas. I spooled the rear and now have no trouble crawling up when it is dry. Now when it has been raining everything changes. Then the switch back at the top of the hill, since your twin sticked, knock the front out of gear do the 3 point turn and you look like a pro.

I know that I could have walked that hill if I was locked in the front, and that's exactly why I left it open. That's one of our local trails, and its not much fun if you're locked f/r, you just walk the whole thing. I don't want to have to drive 6hrs to find a hard trail. I guess something that people are not realizing about this build is that it was never meant to be some badass, high-zoot, high dollar build, just a simple truck that's fun to play with.

As for uwharrie, when our club went last time I basically walked everything there (including the ledge on Daniel). I didn't try Kodak rock because I knew that was pointless, but I did climb the 4' approach ledge (which I tired the next day and grenaded a d-shaft).

The laws of physics? :laughing: Does the fact that I've been wheeling the rig hard for 6mo with no axle breakage mean anything to you?
Yeah You ought to buy a lottery ticket.:flipoff2:

I do hear ya on the over building for the trails in your area though. My f150 is simply too big for any trails around here. I either cant fit or just walk over everything. Gets boring after awhile.

Yeah You ought to buy a lottery ticket.:flipoff2:

I do hear ya on the over building for the trails in your area though. My f150 is simply too big for any trails around here. I either cant fit or just walk over everything. Gets boring after awhile.

move to arizona:flipoff2:

ok thanks for bashing a d44 you guys are the reason i can get spare axles and chromoly axles cheap you go and spend all the money you want on a overrated d60 and if that is what makes you happy then that is great did you not see where he said he was happy with the set up for now??????i have had my fill of d60s had two of them in a previous rig and wont waste money building another!!!i have a good buddy of mine who has a bronco/buggy with a chromo filled d44 good u joint and good hubs and because he has gc than most do he crawls in places most would not dream of going and his stays together fine,mine wouldnt break so much if i had less motor......

buy some punctuation or a carriage return.
us guys are the reason spare shafts are hard to come by.
we broke every one around us and had to step up.

buy some punctuation or a carriage return.
us guys are the reason spare shafts are hard to come by.
we broke every one around us and had to step up.

X2.
A) A shaved D60 has as much, if not more GC than a d44.
B) I got my d60 cheaper than most get their d44's. You just have to look.
C) I build my rig so my skill is my limit. Not so that my rig limits me.
D) I don't like to hold people up on the trail. It tends to piss them off.:flipoff2:
E) I bet you paid more for your weak assed d44 shit than I did my whole d60:rolleyes:
F) I dont run anything that I could shit turds the same size as the axleshaft.:laughing:

Hey man I like your build. Right now I am running a crappy LP44 front in my 67 and a 60 rear. I've beat the piss outtta my truck and still haven't broke anything, besides a front d-shaft. Once I do break that LP44 a HP44 is going to take its place. I am running a 390, NP435, NP208. My next 2 upgrades will be a twinsticked 205 and the HP44.

Hey man I like your build. Right now I am running a crappy LP44 front in my 67 and a 60 rear. I've beat the piss outtta my truck and still haven't broke anything, besides a front d-shaft. Once I do break that LP44 a HP44 is going to take its place. I am running a 390, NP435, NP208. My next 2 upgrades will be a twinsticked 205 and the HP44.

Thanks. Yeah I didn't think that the twinstick would be all that great untill I twinsticked mine, now I really like it.

Ramboss, I think you need to head west one of these days, I can guarantee you will be needing an upgrade if you do.:grinpimp: If the dana 44 is not breaking then dont upgrade, simple as that. I have upgraded to a dana 60 but that is because I was breaking my 44 all the time and it was open. If I wasnt breaking it I probably would not have upgraded. If it aint broke don't fix it.

AllGoNoShow - One of these days I will hafta venture that way. I can guaranttee I will need something replaced after that trip!

I forgot to mention. We don't have much for trails/rocks where I live, all of my abuse is burnouts, mud, snow, drunken stupidity. :)

Another thing that Matt, and the rest of the club here likes to go by is the "If it ain't broke, dont fix it" mentality. Why go bigger when his D44 is doing fine and what he wants? Matt's build was supposed to be(and still mostly is) a low buck build with quality parts to go out and have fun with. When(or if) he breaks the D44 or another part, hell fix it and/or build it bigger, but until then, keep on rolling:flipoff2:

Time for some more tech :flipoff2:

The last trip to Uwharrie I finished off my tie-rod and drag link on a damn stump above Kodack Rock:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-20.jpg

So I decided it was time to build a new assembly with a little more beef this time (not to mention the 28 yr old TRE's that had about a 1/2" of play each.) I ordered up some threaded tube adapters from polyperformance and purchased the GM 1-ton TRE's from Advance, TRW brand with a lifetime warranty.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-21.jpg

Also got some super stout 1.5"x.250 wall DOM
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-22.jpg

Here's the pass. side TRE reamed out to accept the drag link end (note, I originally had planned to use a standard RH thread TRE here, but went with this high angle unit for tube clearance and to eliminate any possible binding.)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-23.jpg

This past month I went ahead and spent a little coin on some tools, one of which was a nice MIG welder, I wish I'd have gotten this BEFORE I started building the rig instead of after, lol.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-24.jpg

The results are much nicer welds than AC Stick:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-25.jpg

Here's the completed assembly, the pitman arm wasn't too hard to ream but those knuckles were some Hard SOBs.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-26.jpg

Unfortunately now with tight TRE's is made evident how bad the track bar bushings are (front axle moves about 1" side to side when I steer), so I'm off to get some new bushings this afternoon.

Hey man truck updates are looking great! I busted my LP44 front, front d-shaft, and cracked my tcase all at the same time. So I'm doing some upgrading at the moment.

I was wondering if you had any more pics of your trannyjack that you built. And if you'd be willin to give away the dimensions of it. I loaned my store bought one to a buddy and haven't seen it since (he is stationed in NC and has it there I believe).

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-7.jpg

Hey man truck updates are looking great! I busted my LP44 front, front d-shaft, and cracked my tcase all at the same time. So I'm doing some upgrading at the moment.

I was wondering if you had any more pics of your trannyjack that you built. And if you'd be willin to give away the dimensions of it. I loaned my store bought one to a buddy and haven't seen it since (he is stationed in NC and has it there I believe).



I don't have many other pics, this is about the only good one:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-27.jpg

As for the construction of it, I don't remember any of the dimensions since I was basically building it off the top of my head, I can take measurements next time I'm home though (could be 1-2 weeks). There are a couple things I would change about the design though:

-make the chassis part longer, with a heavy object such as my 205 it got real heavy on the front wheels when I'd lower it, even a bit tippy.

-Use better quality casters, they are $1.50 cheapo's from Lowes, and although they are rated for enough weight, they don't roll well with a load.

-make the lower chassis out of channel instead of tubing for more rigidity

Bet you get tired of babying that 44,I sure did.:smokin:

BTW - Nice Mig. I got one identical to it in my shop as well. Had it for quite a few years now, no complaints. You will need to upgrade to a bigger tank for it tho ;)

Bet you get tired of babying that 44,I sure did.:smokin:

Baby it hell, I turn loose the 351W every chance I get. Ask anyone who I wheel with and they'll tell you that I use obscene amounts of throttle just for the hell of it. :flipoff2:

BTW - Nice Mig. I got one identical to it in my shop as well. Had it for quite a few years now, no complaints. You will need to upgrade to a bigger tank for it tho ;)

Yeah so far I've been real happy with it, it runs a hotter bead than I was thinking it would, which is a good thing. I stepped it up to .035 solid wire and its plenty hot to weld 1/4" in one pass. Most of the time I use about 10 CFH so that 40cu. ft. tank lasts me for 4hrs of weld time roughly. I don't use it enough right now to justify the cost of buying a big tank (160cu. ft was $300+)

Baby it hell, I turn loose the 351W every chance I get. Ask anyone who I wheel with and they'll tell you that I use obscene amounts of throttle just for the hell of it. :flipoff2:


definitely true:flipoff2:

Baby it hell, I turn loose the 351W every chance I get. Ask anyone who I wheel with and they'll tell you that I use obscene amounts of throttle just for the hell of it. :flipoff2:

he's not kidding about that, we built that motor to run, and run it does, he has no shame when it comes to that skinny petal. i've rode in that thing at uwharrie, and when he broke the rear d-shaft, it was a full throttle asault on the by-pass outta shear anger, that d-44 didn't even flinch!!! this f**ker is crazy man, crazy!:mad2:

man i wouldnt bother replacing those bushings, i think it would be a good time to go ahead and make a new tracbar mount at the axle at least.....those stock ford tracbar setups just seem to eat bushings quick with offroad use

Im a little late on the 3G alternator thing, but id have to agree with them on it. I see where the GM 1 wire seems great, and i considered it when my 2G melted about 10 times...

BTW the 3G is third gen. 2G is second... and so on. 3G is later 90s. (if you were sill wondering)

Anyway, my truck is a 89 F150 with the fire breathin 4.9 :D ... anyway, my truck came with a 65 amp alternator, and if you had everything on in the truck (heater, headlights, bla bla bla...) when the wiper motor would turn on the lights would dim. Adding offroad lights of course added to it, so from experience, id say at least 100 amps - especially since you said you were thinking about a winch later... not sayin you gotta do it right now... id just keep it in mind.

I got a 3G out of a 95 E250 with the same motor... Called up Napa Auto Parts, had one in stock - BAM - 200 amps. was about 100 bucks. anyway, just something to think about. Never had a problem now, its got 1 power, 1 key on, and one for the batt. light. Ive got a 4 AWG wire runnin to it.

And i agree with you on the 44 - Now my trucks barely breakin 100 horses, but my torques up in the line with the small blocks - ive got an IFS 44 and 38.5 boggers - no problems - 5.13 gears - and a 5 speed i like to slam :cool2: - Now i am puttin in a solid 44 because for one - im cheep - and two - every junkyard here has at least 3 or 4 layin around... look for a 60? ya, riiiiight. your lucky if you can even find a REAR 60 around here. Its my daily driver, so parts are important quick.

Im lovin the build, keep up the good work!!! If your ever in Cali id like to see her in action!

(oh, and you said your truck can smoke em into 2nd on the steet? ive got 39.5 Iroks and a 175000 on my 6 cyl. - it will do 2nd, and with my 37s it did 3rd) :flipoff2:

oh and btw - those 9" shafts are strong, but my 6 cyl broke em. - I had 5.13s, and a spool factory case, and factory shafts - worked perfect for 8 months, then i desided to do a tug-a-war with a K5 - 2wd, was fine in first gear, then 2nd i hear my brother screaming and pointing at my single rooster tail - sheared the shaft off at the carrier, spread the splines causing the bearing to shatter, causing the cap to snap and break my spool in peices, causing the rear pinion bearing to break - lets say i learned my lesson -

35 spine moser shafts - strange 3rd member - bigger bearings - 5.13 gears (same old set)

man i wouldnt bother replacing those bushings, i think it would be a good time to go ahead and make a new tracbar mount at the axle at least.....those stock ford tracbar setups just seem to eat bushings quick with offroad use

How would you go about doing that? I know a few guys that are running a standard bushing at the axle end and a heim joint at the frame end, but never heard of it the other way around. (maybe run heims at both ends, IDK?)

Anyone have any pics of their custom track bar setups on these fords?

svt150j49, Thanks for the info on the 3G I didn't have any idea what it was. So far my 63-amp GM alternator is working fine, the electrical system on this truck is basically non-existent after I got through with it, 63 amps runs everything fine including the rock lights. If I get a winch I'll probably have to upgrade, although I'm kicking around on running a PTO winch, just for the hell of it. (BTW, when I say smoke em in 2nd I mean out-of-control-80-feet-of-rubber type deals :D)

Baby it hell, I turn loose the 351W every chance I get. Ask anyone who I wheel with and they'll tell you that I use obscene amounts of throttle just for the hell of it. :flipoff2:


Then how come everyone with the same size tire AND SMALLER are breaking d44 shafts like crazy? Either all my sets were made out of butter, my stock 302 makes more HP than your 351W does, or you don't beat it as hard as you say you do.

Then how come everyone with the same size tire AND SMALLER are breaking d44 shafts like crazy? Either all my sets were made out of butter, my stock 302 makes more HP than your 351W does, or you don't beat it as hard as you say you do.

Dude, get over it, no one cares.

Then how come everyone with the same size tire AND SMALLER are breaking d44 shafts like crazy? Either all my sets were made out of butter, my stock 302 makes more HP than your 351W does, or you don't beat it as hard as you say you do.



Dude if this is the case you need to seriously considering upgrading from a stock 302. I have owned 3 of those POS over the years and none of them have lasted me more than 14,000 miles. Either your D44 busting 302 is made of gold, or you ain't beating it as hard as you say you do. :flipoff2:

Dude if this is the case you need to seriously considering upgrading from a stock 302. I have owned 3 of those POS over the years and none of them have lasted me more than 14,000 miles. Either your D44 busting 302 is made of gold, or you ain't beating it as hard as you say you do. :flipoff2:

And it has just under 160k on it:flipoff2:

Dude, get over it, no one cares.

No one cares about how you beat on your 351 powered, half ton having pile of dog shit either.

Time for some more tech :flipoff2:

The last trip to Uwharrie I finished off my tie-rod and drag link on a damn stump above Kodack Rock:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/VerticalTRX/P4x4%20pics/Misc-20.jpg



heh, i did the same with my f150 when i was testing the welded 14bFF

http://imnotmark.zapto.org:3030/carnage/SUNP0002.JPG

that was only a 5" thick stump that stood about 4' tall and got wedged under my front bumper, snapped the rod end when i got pulled out

and before someone says anything about the drag link with clamps it was both threaded, clamped and welded up

heh, i did the same with my f150 when i was testing the welded 14bFF

that was only a 5" thick stump that stood about 4' tall and got wedged under my front bumper, snapped the rod end when i got pulled out

and before someone says anything about the drag link with clamps it was both threaded, clamped and welded up

Yeah, glad mine didn't let go like that, it would have been hard to flat tow it 150mi back home with front wheels flopping around.


No one cares about how you beat on your 351 powered, half ton having pile of dog shit either.

Someones getting a little angry I see. :laughing:

Someones getting a little angry I see. :laughing:

nope.:flipoff2:

obviously you are not as hardcore as you are stating.
the d44 unbroken proves that beyond a doubt.

even with 35s I was distorting the yokes enough to spit the caps.
I bought the truck with broken steering ujoints and 35mtr's so it wasnt just me.
I drive softly.

When i said 3rd gear, i meant it like that too. ill send you pics of my burnoff. anyway, who cares if he hasnt broken his 44??

If he does, then you all can laugh... otherwise it seems to be working fine for him, for now. Not all of us on here are for pure "wide open rock crawling, axle snapping carnage" ... as you can see from his pics i saw dirt and mud. 44 seems to be workin for him.

it seemed to be doing fine in front wheel drive goin up a hill in the snow at 3K rpm

No one cares about how you beat on your 351 powered, half ton having pile of dog shit either.

i think you are retarded. is this your build thread 94stepside, i didnt think so. if you dont care about how he beats on his 351w no one is making you read this thread.

vertical that is a badass rig, i have taken some of your ideas and been able to use them on my own rig.

im with him. if your gonna talk shit just close the window. i like the build. keep it up.

i think you are retarded. is this your build thread 94stepside, i didnt think so. if you dont care about how he beats on his 351w no one is making you read this thread.

vertical that is a badass rig, i have taken some of your ideas and been able to use them on my own rig.

Thats why I have an opinion. Some fawking noob gets on here and and sees this thread and thinks a d44 will hold up to his ubber monster truck on 46's. Then when It snaps like a twig weget all of the "why is my chit breaking?" threads:flipoff2:

So dont say "I beat my chit HARD" when indeed I could fuck that up with one 6K clutch drop in my shit with a stcok 302. I was blowing front axle shafts on command.

it seemed to be doing fine in front wheel drive goin up a hill in the snow at 3K rpm
:rolleyes: Yeah so would the front end of my ranger...until it hit traction

Fawk these guys, Vert. Enjoying the build & follow up. Keep it up, man.:grinpimp:

BTW, glitter rules:flipoff2: .

Thanks for the replies. There will be more tech coming in the near future. There are a several things I'm trying to get done this winter before the April run at Big Dogs:

-rear traction bar
-4" Superflex coils to replaces the skyjackers
-chromo cross-pin for the 9"
-760x joints w/ full-circle clips for the D44
-sliders (anyone have pics of the sliders on their '73-79 Fords?)

(Don't let the asshattery of punk ass little kids like 94stepside bother yall, there is an ignore feature on this board.) :p


Fawk these guys, Vert. Enjoying the build & follow up. Keep it up, man.:grinpimp:

BTW, glitter rules:flipoff2: .

Thanks, I knew by the shear fact that I was receiving a package from a fellow P4x4 member that there was a high probability that it was a glitter bomb. :flipoff2:

ill put up some traction bar ideas if you'd like... ive got the same 9" under my truck, and my new bar seems to work sick ass...

-sliders (anyone have pics of the sliders on their '73-79 Fords?)




ditto on this...

Hey Matt, I really like the build. Even better in person.
Watch out for that parts flyin feller, I think he's one of them thar tag team boyz. Troublesome bunch! Plan for lots of fun when out their way. Sorry I missed meeting you Slim, tell Greg to wake up!
Stop by my McD's in Rocky Mount when down that way. One of the last ones I built. Thanks again for the tranny, it will really make my build complete. BTW, My Son, James that you met will be headed to VT soon for his Master's. Give me a shout when you head up to Big Dogs, that is less than an hour from me, I head down there a few times a year with some buds. Well, I enjoyed reading your build thread...
Here's mine.:smokin:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92861

BTW, I have a REAL nice set of Yukons for the rear in that thing should you decide to upgrade.

diggn the build - do what u want and f the rest of the haters - 44s will hold up to your wheeln for now - and it will brake - but 44 shafts are cheap and easy to find - so have fun and make some vids for us to wach - if you were closer - id wheel with u any day :flipoff2:

I second that.

ill put up some traction bar ideas if you'd like... ive got the same 9" under my truck, and my new bar seems to work sick ass...

Sure, all ideas are welcome, I think I'll probably go with something like Halogrinder built, but open to any thoughts.

Hey Matt, I really like the build. Even better in person.
Watch out for that parts flyin feller, I think he's one of them thar tag team boyz. Troublesome bunch! Plan for lots of fun when out their way. Sorry I missed meeting you Slim, tell Greg to wake up!
Stop by my McD's in Rocky Mount when down that way. One of the last ones I built. Thanks again for the tranny, it will really make my build complete. BTW, My Son, James that you met will be headed to VT soon for his Master's. Give me a shout when you head up to Big Dogs, that is less than an hour from me, I head down there a few times a year with some buds. Well, I enjoyed reading your build thread...
Here's mine.:smokin:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92861

BTW, I have a REAL nice set of Yukons for the rear in that thing should you decide to upgrade.

Yeah, I spend a good bit of time down there in Franklin county, I'm still waiting to go wheel with parts flyin, when it gets warmer I'll probably get down there again. I've eaten at that McD's many a time after riding fourwheelers down there, Larry McCarty's son is one of my friends who I go riding with and one of my best friends is marrying his daughter. I'll let ya know about big dogs and such when the time gets closer.

diggn the build - do what u want and f the rest of the haters - 44s will hold up to your wheeln for now - and it will brake - but 44 shafts are cheap and easy to find - so have fun and make some vids for us to wach - if you were closer - id wheel with u any day :flipoff2:

Thanks, I always try to get pics and vids of the outtings, but for some reason everyone wants to ride instead of getting out and taking pics. :confused:

(Don't let the asshattery of punk ass little kids like 94stepside bother yall, there is an ignore feature on this board.)

this statement and the others from your boyfriends are the problem in this thread.
the work you have done on your truck is quite nice and it is a good build thread, until you start talking out your ass on what a d44 can survive.
as soon as you start yapping bullshit like that you are going to get people stating reality.
this is not a slight on your ride.
no one is going to "laugh at you" when you tear the 44 shit up as we have all BTDT to many times.
my current daily driver is on 38s with a d44 front detroit and yukons, but I have a d60f sitting here almost ready to go in to make it reliable.

this statement and the others from your boyfriends are the problem in this thread.
the work you have done on your truck is quite nice and it is a good build thread, until you start talking out your ass on what a d44 can survive.
as soon as you start yapping bullshit like that you are going to get people stating reality.
this is not a slight on your ride.
no one is going to "laugh at you" when you tear the 44 shit up as we have all BTDT to many times.
my current daily driver is on 38s with a d44 front detroit and yukons, but I have a d60f sitting here almost ready to go in to make it reliable.
Werd. All im saying is why put so much time into a suspension, a motor, restoring the whole fucking truck ETC just to finish it off with half assed axles.:confused: Other than the 1/2 tons I'd wheel the piss out of it.

Werd. All im saying is why put so much time into a suspension, a motor, restoring the whole fucking truck ETC just to finish it off with half assed axles.:confused: Other than the 1/2 tons I'd wheel the piss out of it.

not all of us cant toss a grand into a d60 right away, i had to settle with a closed knuckle 44 till i can get the cash for a d60 but after a year of waiting i think its finally time i put one in

dign the build - some progress pics of mine http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m272/f250rollinon37s/Bryan5146.jpg

more - will cut the body at the paint lines - http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m272/f250rollinon37s/Bryan5147.jpg

Whats wrong with 1/2 ton axles? Let him wheel as he wants.

Thats why I have an opinion. Some fawking noob gets on here and and sees this thread and thinks a d44 will hold up to his ubber monster truck on 46's. Then when It snaps like a twig weget all of the "why is my chit breaking?" threads:flipoff2:

So dont say "I beat my chit HARD" when indeed I could fuck that up with one 6K clutch drop in my shit with a stcok 302. I was blowing front axle shafts on command.

HE'S ON FUCKING Q78'S!!!!!! No one ever said a 44 would hold up to 46's. It doesn't matter what you think will hold up or if you believe he wheels it hard or not. Those tires are pizza cutters and the open diff saves his ass. I'm willing to bet Matt could out wheel you and your uber axles any day of the week. There is something to be said for good driving.

ok - so lay off all u d44 haters- i want a d60 and im sure he does too - but unless someone just hands us one - what is wrong with wheeln a d44 - 5 years ago a d44 was big and a d60 was overkill - now the 60s are small and rocks are the normal - just to piss guys off im going to run a hp44 in the front of my truggy - untill i can afford a d60 - that way i can still wheel - even if i have to be soft on it - yes im going to run a 44 with 44s - for now - so stuff it :flipoff2:

I just find it entertaining how mad people get when someone runs a D44 and it actually works. :flipoff2:

I just find it entertaining how mad people get when someone runs a D44 and it actually works. :flipoff2:

The reason they get mad is because they're too ignorant to size their tires properly for the truck they have built (I've done that too though :laughing: ). It doesn't make you any better when you stop wasting people's time on the trail because you upgraded, if you start wasting people's time being a cock and balls on the forums. :flipoff2:

ive seen a few local guys build up there shit - and dump $2000 in a d60 and run 36-38s and drive like my mother - they need the d44s and we want there d60s - i know i need a 60 or bigger with 44s - but im on a budget - aka tightwad:flipoff2:

verticaltrx, nice build up. if the d44 is working for you great! i dont know why so many people cant accept that. yes the d44 does have limits, but so do d60s and even rockwells for that matter. it looks to me like you have the right combination of light weight, tire size, open diff, and power that makes it work for you. thats the great thing about fourwheeling, every rig is different and unique!

ok - so lay off all u d44 haters- i want a d60 and im sure he does too - but unless someone just hands us one - what is wrong with wheeln a d44 - 5 years ago a d44 was big and a d60 was overkill - now the 60s are small and rocks are the normal - just to piss guys off im going to run a hp44 in the front of my truggy - untill i can afford a d60 - that way i can still wheel - even if i have to be soft on it - yes im going to run a 44 with 44s - for now - so stuff it :flipoff2:

did you own a jeep or something? I have been into this stuff for about 17 years and I was told to run a d60 and stop wasting time with d44s day one.
I had a powerlocked d60 under my chev within a year.
a d44 was never considered big.
no one gets "mad" that you are running a d44, no one gives a rats ass what you run unless you are in the way.
I see dumbfucks with 44" tires on d44s all the time, just not for very long.

dude seriously? get over it. all you guys. point is, some of us are broke, and cant afford a 60, some of us need them, but cant find them, and some of us just dont need them... thats all everyone was trying to say. if we all had the cash we'd be running 60s or rocks, i know i would...now get over the 44 - 60 thing, and get back to the f150 build. jesus. id like to see some snappage anyway.:D

Once your buddies get sick of waiting for you to crawl a ledge where you could have gave it a throttle blip and went right up, You will see what I mean. I hate people being in my way and I hate being in peoples way. Hence the tossing the d44. Sure a d44 has its place..like under a jeep with 33's, or a mall cruiser. Actualy even my mall crawling piece of shit has a dana 60:flipoff2:

And dont give me this bullshit about 1000 bucks either. Look ya lazy fawkers. I paid a case of bud light for my d60. Had my truck all one tonned for about 2000 bucks. This is an expensive sprot, get used to it.

Plus, pulling one of my d44 breaking friends off the trail with my "show truck" taching 6K with all 4 turning and then suddenly hitting pavement and breaking NOTHING= priceless.

Ill tell ya what - My IFS "mall cruiser" Dana 44 pulled out a buried broken solid axle dana 44... so ya, it sucks. I hate mine. Its worn. Its dying. But until i save up to get a 60 - Im fucked too. :D

BUT - the next 60 you find that one of us can trade a case of beer for? send my way. shit, ill get a pallet. Til then? o well, right? Have fun wheelin, and lets see some more pics of this guys truck, k?

Dana 44s suck, 60s work, rockwells rock. Now that we've settled that, lets move on, shall we?:flipoff2:

:cool2: :cool2: 94stepsideford - yes i have had 2 jeeps - one cj 5 and a yj - both with swaped d44s - and i killed the yj - a few times - :flipoff2: - i know a 60 is the way to go - not trying to argue - but $ is hard to have lyin aroud for a d60 - and i had a six pack dana 60 lined up and some fucker offered a 12 pack - and it was gone - :grinpimp: - seriously - i was trading a tune up on a 03 exp. with the 5.4 for the 60 - but - he wrecked the exp and traded the 60 for a 2wd toy (that didnt run ) and he has since brought to the junk yard because of a cracked head - ass - more build pics - i need some motivation -

I have got about $450 in my 1 ton shit. its stilll not under the truck tho....

once again, ive looked locally. along with a couple other guys i know. everying ive found is at least a grand, or fucked over. Maybe you guys get great deals, but i cant exactly drive 400 miles to go grab a 60 - (shit that would be the grand right there... and ive got a 6 cyl! ha! :flipoff2: fuckin cali)

Once your buddies get sick of waiting for you to crawl a ledge where you could have gave it a throttle blip and went right up, You will see what I mean. I hate people being in my way and I hate being in peoples way. Hence the tossing the d44. Sure a d44 has its place..like under a jeep with 33's, or a mall cruiser. Actualy even my mall crawling piece of shit has a dana 60:flipoff2:

And dont give me this bullshit about 1000 bucks either. Look ya lazy fawkers. I paid a case of bud light for my d60. Had my truck all one tonned for about 2000 bucks. This is an expensive sprot, get used to it.

Plus, pulling one of my d44 breaking friends off the trail with my "show truck" taching 6K with all 4 turning and then suddenly hitting pavement and breaking NOTHING= priceless.

you got lucky on the d60 deal, so far the only one i found closest to me was $1,000 and in a fire so everything was toast and the housing was weakend. the sport is about seeing what you can do with what you got, run what you have till it causes problems then upgrade and so far his 44 is holding up even if he is light on the foot who cares, this is suposed to be fun not a "hurry up i wanna go up the trail". yes its an expensive sport but whats wrong with someone running what they got till they can afford better? i know im goign to have problems with my 44 up front till i can get a 60 at a decent price but there is no way im going to run out and fork $1,500 for a ready to go axle when i can get some 18ton rocks from my boss if i wanted to really beef it up :flipoff2:

If I was given a D60 I wouldn't put it under my '79, I don't need one and don't want one for this rig. I would probably put it under my '88 F-250 tow rig if anything. Discuss. :flipoff2:

If I was given a D60 I wouldn't put it under my '79, I don't need one and don't want one for this rig. I would probably put it under my '88 F-250 tow rig if anything. Discuss. :flipoff2:

Nope. All the proof your an Idiot we need:flipoff2:

Nope. All the proof your an Idiot we need

I don't think I would run one either, does that make me an idiot too? Or does paying through the nose for an axle then having to gear it, lock it, and rebuild the outers make you smart.

I'm not paying $1k for a used axle. Especially for the prized HP60. Around this part of the country Chevy stuff is easier and cheaper to find. So my plans are to dig up a Chevy 60, cut the C's off, and build a 609 out of a banjo housing 9".

Nope. All the proof your an Idiot we need:flipoff2:

An idiot is someone like yourself that thinks you need a D60 to run 35x10.50 tires with an open diff. :flipoff2:

eww open difs

$1000 is cheap for a serviceable d60 core. best money you can spend on a 4x4
35s on a fullsize are way too small

94stepsideford - all this from the guy who was defending the blue 1200 hp roll over monster in the general f. - its his truck - you dont wheel with him - so why the hate ?? if he wants to save the money by not getting the d60 - then fine - if he brakes his 44 then ok - let him post the pics - and fixing shit if you brake is the 4 wheelin experiance - you can be poor and still have fun too -

An idiot is someone like yourself that thinks you need a D60 to run 35x10.50 tires with an open diff. :flipoff2:

:laughing: keep running your mouth. Your making yourself look like an idiot well enough.

What good is all the HP your motor makes if you can't even fawking get it to the ground? And 35's on a fullsized rig? With an open diff it wont make it up my driveway after a good rainstorm:rolleyes:
I like to beat my shit without reservation. When I go after somthing it's balls to the wall full throttle attemps. Anything else is just half assed.

94stepsideford - all this from the guy who was defending the blue 1200 hp roll over monster in the general f.

Lets see a show truck vs a "wheeler". Big differance.

94stepsideford, where are you from?

eww open difs

$1000 is cheap for a serviceable d60 core. best money you can spend on a 4x4
35s on a fullsize are way too small

:laughing: keep running your mouth. Your making yourself look like an idiot well enough.

What good is all the HP your motor makes if you can't even fawking get it to the ground? And 35's on a fullsized rig? With an open diff it wont make it up my driveway after a good rainstorm:rolleyes:
I like to beat my shit without reservation. When I go after somthing it's balls to the wall full throttle attemps. Anything else is just half assed.

Why can't you fawkers seem to understand this was never meant to be a hardcore build? I have said time and time again that this is for recreational/ local trails, camping, exploring, etc. I have not found a spot yet where a front locker would have made the difference in making through something, nor have I found a situation where the Q78's were too small. I'm beginning to think yall just like to argue for the sake of arguing. :flipoff2:

Oh BTW, I'll be at the Big Dogs Ice Breaker Run in April, come out and wheel with us, then you can run your mouth and I'll respect what you have to say.

stepside, stop running your mouth. My IFS OPEN 44 with 38.5s would make it up your driveway with 4 feet of snow. No one gives a shit about your POS, now let this guy build his shit how he wants. :flipoff2:

I love my Dana 44 :smokin:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/406491/fullsize/img_0270.jpg

And since I wheel with friends and not assholes, nobody ever gets mad when somebody else breaks.


Awesome build, VerticalTRX! Keep it coming.

exactly. everyone i wheel with likes to have fun, not brag about how much money they have waisted into a front axle they didnt need yet... nor complain about how small your buddies tires are. And how big are those meats on your blue beauty? they look huge. NOT. This guy is makin a weekend wheeler, a ranch truck, a REAL USABLE TRUCK. And hes done all of this with simple tools and rather cheep, for the amount of truck that he has come out with so far. Id like to see you do it. We all like it, thats why we are on here reading this, isnt it? None of us are on here to look up threads and talk shit. Now... like he said, and we have all said... let see some pics of this beast again! i want to see how the build is going, and stop this shit talking fest. Im done bitching now :D

stepside, stop running your mouth. My IFS OPEN 44 with 38.5s would make it up your driveway with 4 feet of snow. No one gives a shit about your POS, now let this guy build his shit how he wants. :flipoff2:

ain't no one stopping him from doing anything he wants telephone tough guy.

Vert, do not try calling people out when they obviously have better equipment then you do.

currently MJ im gonna go with the fact that vert has better equipment than stepside, just by the fact that he is man enough to put his shit up on this website for everybody to see. anybody could claim that they have an HP60 but until you show proof or have witnesses in my opinion you dont have anything. just my .02

Verts right. You guys just like to argue to make you feel like you've got a set.

I love my Dana 44 :smokin:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/406491/fullsize/img_0270.jpg

And since I wheel with friends and not assholes, nobody ever gets mad when somebody else breaks.


Awesome build, VerticalTRX! Keep it coming.
Are those 36's? I love that truck, from the pics i have seen its pretty bad ass. I love my 36" iroks but will go bigger once i put my 60 in. i hope you 44 guys dont hate me now, but i wont bash on you. haha

Are those 36's?

Yup. Im will go to 1 tons and 38-40in tires eventually, too. But for now this is what I can afford and it works great.

Vert, do not try calling people out when they obviously have better equipment then you do.

I was calling him out to come see me wheel, see that you can be hard on a D44 and it wont break, and see that I don't just idly run my mouth. I don't talk about anything that I don't have personal experience with. If he can drive his rig like he claims and isn't afraid of a little body damage I don't have any doubt that his rig could outwheel mine, that wasn't the point I was trying to make.


Thanks for the replies, I didn't know there were as many guys as there are running D44's.

vert i really like your rig, and like you and brokecuzwheelin im running a locked d44 front, and locked 9" rear, with 35x14 boggers.

keep up the great build

exactly. everyone i wheel with likes to have fun, not brag about how much money they have waisted into a front axle they didnt need yet... nor complain about how small your buddies tires are. And how big are those meats on your blue beauty? they look huge. NOT. This guy is makin a weekend wheeler, a ranch truck, a REAL USABLE TRUCK. And hes done all of this with simple tools and rather cheep, for the amount of truck that he has come out with so far. Id like to see you do it. We all like it, thats why we are on here reading this, isnt it? None of us are on here to look up threads and talk shit. Now... like he said, and we have all said... let see some pics of this beast again! i want to see how the build is going, and stop this shit talking fest. Im done bitching now :D

:laughing: Sit your little newbie dick sucking ass back in the corner and shut the fuck up. And no, 39.5's are nowhere near "big" by todays standards. My truck is "usable". It was my dd until april of 06 and got wheeled every weekend. It only sits now because I have blown the tranny out of my ranger TWICE and need my $$ for that instead. Its still gets offoraded. Just not anywhere near as hard as it used to.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/2057243/3988319/230139660.jpg:flipoff2:

currently MJ im gonna go with the fact that vert has better equipment than stepside, just by the fact that he is man enough to put his shit up on this website for everybody to see. anybody could claim that they have an HP60 but until you show proof or have witnesses in my opinion you dont have anything. just my .02
Yeah I claim I have a d-60 to make me feel special.
Forgive the round u-bolts to mock the axle in place. But you'll get the point.(btw the TINY jack stand and blocks of wood are to hold the axle up only. There are 20 ton jackstands under the frame.)
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/2057243/3988319/168320873.jpg

vert i really like your rig, and like you and brokecuzwheelin im running a locked d44 front, and locked 9" rear, with 35x14 boggers.

keep up the great build

Actually, mine isn't locked anymore. The Powerlok blew up so I slapped an open carrier back in it for now so I could wheel it. I have a set of ctm's that I plan on installing with Superior chromos and an ARB. I did break stock axles with it locked (I'm sure my big block and 5.13 gears have nothing to do with it:rolleyes: ), but the main problem I had was I couldn't steer with my stock steering. So the truck is getting hydro steering before the front gets locked again.

In my case, the main reason I'm staying with my D44 for now is money. If I swapped in 1 tons I would have to by the 60 itself, new rims, bigger tires (to make the swap worth it), new d-shafts, new headers (current ones probably won't clear any tire bigger than what I have), locker for the front, hydro steering, a 14bolt for the rear, rear locker, etc, etc. If I stay with the d44 I could just get away with chromos, locker, hydro steering, be done with, and it will wheel great, be very capable, and be a fun truck to drive.

First of All the Truck is looking good Vert, dont sweat all the haters, I understand and dig the idea behind your build... Ive alwasy thought about doing up an old cj5 with some co-ops and white steelies and pimpin the hells outta it...

And for 94stepside.. A Q78 tsl is almost 37 inches tall and about 10.5-11 inches wide so its not like hes hanging a 150 lb 18 wide bogger on a 14 wide wheel off of the end of his axle and expecting it to last... its not much different in size and weigh than a 9.5x16 that was on about half of the mid-late 70s 250s with d44s...

Dont get me wrong, I like one ton axles just as much as anybody, but they arent completely necessary on everything that leaves the pavement. People just fall into the 'More is never enough' mindset and end up going overboard...

anyhoo thats my .02.. :flipoff2: :p

-j-rOd

p.s. Stop fawkin up the thread with all the newbie babble, nobody cares what axle who is running except for the one in Verts truck... if you wanna talk about your axle go start your own thread. we now return you to your regularly scheduled thread. :flipoff2:

alright dick, i was on here on 2004 cept i got off the site cuz fags like you wouldnt stop talking shit cuz i was a "newbie" then too. And weither or not i have spent 3 years of my pathetic life on the internet talking shit about everyone that doesnt have the awsome front axle that i do bla bla bla... suck my dick fag.

It looks to me like your MALL CRUISER is on JACK STANDS. well... a jack stand and wood blocks. And it seems like that 60 hasnt rolled in a while. Point is? i dont give a fuck. Stop talkin shit about everyone, and just fuckin read what this guys build is. This shit right here is why i quit reading the bullshit that was on here.

fuck it, im done reading this thread. you just piss me off. good luck with the build bud. Im diggin how its turned out so far... If your ever in cali let me know, ill wheel with ya.

fuck it, im done reading this thread. you just piss me off. good luck with the build bud. Im diggin how its turned out so far... If your ever in cali let me know, ill wheel with ya.

Verts right. You guys just like to argue to make you feel like you've got a set. I know when to quit. :flipoff2: :beer:cheers pussies.

you seem to be the only loser getting worked up on this thread.
if this is how you react to differing opinions then perhaps you shouldnt be playing on the net with real people.
take your childish temper tantrums somewhere else.

currently MJ im gonna go with the fact that vert has better equipment than stepside, just by the fact that he is man enough to put his shit up on this website for everybody to see. anybody could claim that they have an HP60 but until you show proof or have witnesses in my opinion you dont have anything. just my .02

I will have to go back and read a bit to see if he is locked up, that was more my point then possessing a d60.
a d60 is just reliability, lockers are what makes a difference wheeling.

alright dick, i was on here on 2004 cept i got off the site cuz fags like you wouldnt stop talking shit cuz i was a "newbie" then too. And weither or not i have spent 3 years of my pathetic life on the internet talking shit about everyone that doesnt have the awsome front axle that i do bla bla bla... suck my dick fag.

It looks to me like your MALL CRUISER is on JACK STANDS. well... a jack stand and wood blocks. And it seems like that 60 hasnt rolled in a while. Point is? i dont give a fuck. Stop talkin shit about everyone, and just fuckin read what this guys build is. This shit right here is why i quit reading the bullshit that was on here.
Somone is a little but hurt eh?:flipoff2: That pic was taken in the spring. Has long since left the jackstands. How old are you anyway? 15? Do you even have your permit yet? Where are the pics of your shit anyway?

So my point then there is: My mall cruiser has a locked dana 60 and 10.25". Why the fuck wouldn't his wheeling rig? IMO wheeling is about getting to the trail, wheeling it, and being able to get home. A d44 isn't gonna let you do that for long.

stepside, we all get your point and know what your saying. but we dont need you to keep saying it over and over. stop hijacking Matt's(Vert's) thread and let him get back to building this thing. If the D44s gonna break, itll probably be at Big Dogs, so lets just wait and see. If it does, no big deal. If it doesnt, thats cool too.

Im sorry you have to wheel with assholes that get pissed off when you break stuff, that really sucks. If you want to brag about your D60, start your own thread, cuz nobody over here cares:shaking: This thing aint no competition rockcrawler, just a truck that you can go out and have fun in

With all this rhetoric my thread might catch up with halogrinders, lol.

As I said before I'll be going to the Big Dogs Icebreaker run and I'll be driving the rig there 4hrs each way, wheeling all weekend and driving it home. I'm not worried about reliabilty/durabilty at all, I've wheeled the rig enough to know this. On a side note, 4hrs each way up I-81 with tube doors will be fun. :flipoff2:

The next bit of tech on this thread will be installing some new coils, shocks, maybe fabbing up shock hoops, IDK. It will probably be a couple weeks till I get to this with school and all though.

why yesa massa... i am 15 and i dont have my permit quite yet... i just desided to talk shit on a site for the hell of it because im really pissed off my truck doesnt have a dana 60 under it when its street driven...

um no, cockwhore, im not pissy at you. i honestly dont give a fuck about you or your truck... and i was defending something that aparently you are stuck on... you think 60s should be under everything, i think diffrently... i think the guy can run a 44 if he wants... point was hes got skills. that was it. BUT if it makes you feel like a bigger man to try and insult my age, and what i think... then go for it. In the end, im rolling my eyes... so there ya go. you win. you and your mall cruiser. and honestly? if you wernt a dick i might like your stepside, but your attitude makes me think diffrently. :flipoff2:

Something I thought was interesting, this rig originally came with a fixed mechanical fan, so I just ran it as is, I was getting 10.7mpg with this setup. I switched to a clutch type fan and on a 3hr trip this weekend I got 14.4 mpg. :eek:

That is all.

why yesa massa... i am 15 and i dont have my permit quite yet... i just desided to talk shit on a site for the hell of it because im really pissed off my truck doesnt have a dana 60 under it when its street driven...

um no, cockwhore, im not pissy at you. i honestly dont give a fuck about you or your truck... and i was defending something that aparently you are stuck on... you think 60s should be under everything, i think diffrently... i think the guy can run a 44 if he wants... point was hes got skills. that was it. BUT if it makes you feel like a bigger man to try and insult my age, and what i think... then go for it. In the end, im rolling my eyes... so there ya go. you win. you and your mall cruiser. and honestly? if you wernt a dick i might like your stepside, but your attitude makes me think diffrently. :flipoff2::rolleyes: As long as you still in school take a class to improve your reading coprehension. No one said the truck was bad, just questioned his axle of choice. As a matter of fact I LOVE simplicity. This rig looks to be as simple and easy to work on as it gets. It's just not going to hold up well if put to the paces.

But your street truck driving ass wouldn't know that would you? Come on. Put up or shut up lets see some pics.

I'm not worried about some teenage poor excuse for a ceiling baby trying to insult me or my rig. I mean 15? Your balls haven't even dropped yet kid.

fawkin kids, i am a kid but dont talk out of line. you defintely wont win, and trying to use your age in favor of you doesnt work. makes you look like a real homo

Hey 94stepside, why dont YOU post up some pics of YOUR truck doing anything but being parked?

Lets see how "hardcore" you are with your d60

i always bring a camera but i always forget about it till the trip home. i hate how people need to take pictures of themselves every 30 minutes.

your right, my age is a factor in this, im not 15, i am 19... so youve got me on that one. ill admit it... No, im not still in school, yes, i am a full time mechanic. No, my truck is not a street driven beauty queen. As of right now, yes... i do have to drive it back and fourth to work while my daily driver is down... But, considering i live a mile from my work, i wouldnt even consider that "street driven" because ive seen full tube buggys drive 20 miles to their work down the street from me.

And if youd like to see some pics, thats fine with me. lemme find some that i have and ill post them. Im on our laptop, so i dont have them at my hands at the moment... but i will today or tomarrow...

excuse the lack of real wheelin pics, but this is the best ive got on this computer....

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/Adamovol/443425022YZVqRR_ph-1.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/Adamovol/182330151_l-1.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/Adamovol/0204071413.jpg (and no, thats not me, thats a guy who works with us)

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/Adamovol/Picture016.jpg(this one is me, couple years ago...)

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/Adamovol/P1010034-1.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/Adamovol/P1010027-1.jpg

they arent the best wheelin pics... but they are the best ive got right now... ill put up more later...

ill put up more later...

why?

because i was called out by stepside. its not like im bragging. theres nothing to brag about on my POS - just letting him know i use it, even if its falling apart.:D

Vert - The fan thing is interesting - I removed my fan and put in dual electric flex-a-lites in mine... it helped out the power and gas a little bit - the motor actually revs faster now tho - kinda nice to have...

your right, my age is a factor in this, im not 15, i am 19... so youve got me on that one. ill admit it... No, im not still in school, yes, i am a full time mechanic. No, my truck is not a street driven beauty queen. As of right now, yes... i do have to drive it back and fourth to work while my daily driver is down... But, considering i live a mile from my work, i wouldnt even consider that "street driven" because ive seen full tube buggys drive 20 miles to their work down the street from me.
we are one in the same on that then. 19, mechanic/tow truck driver and currently driving my junk to work at a whole 5 miles away. Street drivin doesn't always mean beauty rig. So dont assume on that one. I just like to keep my shit in good shape. I have dents and dings just like the next guy. Only differance is mine will be fixed for show season.:flipoff2:

why?

Because he has a cool flame paint job and painted RA's :shaking: Not to meantion the pimp d44 shit. DUH

thats kinda odd - i work for a tow yard...along with my brother as the mechanics. And ya ya ya, i know ive got the gay 44 up front, but im tryin here... and the only reason they are green is cuz its a rancho kit and they were red... made sence at the time... o well...:D they will be gone soon enough...

I hate that word kit. It sounds so.... lame. i dont know how else to put it, but I hear it alot. Just make it.

Hey 94stepside, why dont YOU post up some pics of YOUR truck doing anything but being parked?

Lets see how "hardcore" you are with your d60
We already established that my truck is more of a show queen now. Or did you not catch that in all of your noobieness?

so how can you give anyone shit about beating their truck and breaking axles or anything?

Hey 94stepside, why dont YOU post up some pics of YOUR truck doing anything but being parked?

Lets see how "hardcore" you are with your d60


X 100000000000
put up or shut your big mouth. :shaking:

from page 8:

Originally Posted by 94stepsidehomo
I like to beat my shit without reservation. When I go after somthing it's balls to the wall full throttle attemps. Anything else is just half assed.

sooooo any pictures this "balls to the wall full throttle" action?


probly not.

go home.

look at all the newbies. :laughing: Once my truck is back I'll get some vids up. See if I can blow the 5r55e again:laughing: :shaking:

look at all the newbies. :laughing: Once my truck is back I'll get some vids up. See if I can blow the 5r55e again:laughing: :shaking:

you're a newbie....at LIFE.
i've been wheeling way longer than you've been alive :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:
keep us posted vert. i love your build so far.
i've been running a ford front 44 with 4:10's and ez locker under a 400+ hp 460 for a few years with no problems.

you're a newbie....at LIFE.
i've been wheeling way longer than you've been alive :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:
keep us posted vert. i love your build so far.
i've been running a ford front 44 with 4:10's and ez locker under a 400+ hp 460 for a few years with no problems.

on 29" tires no doubt

on 29" tires no doubt

36's "no doubt" :shaking:

Damn - so much hate - we have a 79 f150 / 460 bb in a work / recovery truck - that has the 44 and 9 - in the 6 years i have been working there it has only broken one front joint / stub shaft - - thats with 35" bfgs - and the truck is driven by drivers - so no respect -

and SVT150j49 - you wheel like a bitch :flipoff2: - sorry bro - couldnt help myself

as for the mechanical fan / vrs - the clutch - the mechanical fan requires the same power to spin at all rpm - all the time - a clutch fan only comes on when the temp is high enough to have it engauge - thats why oems have been doing it for years -

and Vert - get back to the build man - if i cant work on my shit - i want to watch others work on there shit

look at all the newbies. :laughing: Once my truck is back I'll get some vids up. See if I can blow the 5r55e again:laughing: :shaking:

So you stop breaking axles, but you still break trannies? From what I gather, you're just an insecure little kid that needs to brag about how much throttle you use to compensate for your lack of driving ability/experience. I'm not mad that you're a douche anymore...I just feel sorry for you.

SVT150j49 - you wheel like a bitch :flipoff2: - sorry bro - couldnt help myself -

:flipoff2: your just upset your little brothers truck is 2 feet taller than yours:flipoff2: dont make me run your ass over...:laughing:

and Vert - get back to the build man - if i cant work on my shit - i want to watch others work on there shit

There will be some more updates coming soon, I've been real busy with other things lately so the '79 has taken a back burner. I'm still working on getting it ready for Big Dogs however. Also, since the tranny is going out in my F-250 I'm DD'ing this thing, always a good time. :D

Christ, everytime I come to this thread I need to put my f'in chest waders on just to get thru all the shit.

Let Verticals thread be his thread. If you guys wanna keep trash talking start up your own post like everyone else has suggested.

Vert - Thats some good tech info on the fan. I might hafta keep that in mind when I decide to tear into my rig somemore.....

So you stop breaking axles, but you still break trannies? From what I gather, you're just an insecure little kid that needs to brag about how much throttle you use to compensate for your lack of driving ability/experience. I'm not mad that you're a douche anymore...I just feel sorry for you.

Or your too fucking dumb to realize its two different trucks. Yeah I have a 5r55e behind a 300HP motor and 39.5's. Are you fucking dumb?
The blue one(thats the one with a dana 60) is too big to wheel around here except for in snow and *gasp* mud.:flipoff2:

The ranger is now what I wheel and will probaly get a d44 in spring just so i can blow it up like all of the cool kids:rolleyes:

Do you understand now dumbfuck?

36's "no doubt" :shaking:

ooooo 36's aren't you badass:shaking: 36's are the new 32's:flipoff2:

how did ya manage to squeeze 300hp outta the 4.0 and what kind of lift did you use to stuff those 39.5s under the ranger? And youre runnin 39.5s with a stock ifs d35 and 8.8? just a little confused and im sure youll clear things up in a hurry but wouldnt that go against everything that you posted here? like i said just a little confused here...