I just finished machining the prototype for my new hysteer arms. I made this ones made out of aluminium to test the program, the real ones will be cut from 4140 chromoly then heat treated.

http://members.shaw.ca/lmsmith/d60arm%201.jpg


http://members.shaw.ca/lmsmith/d60arm%202.jpg

So how about some pics of the CNC in your garage?

What are you using for cone washers?

Originally posted by Chris Geiger
What are you using for cone washers? This one doesn't have the chamfer for the tapered nuts (which is what I'm planning on using), the grease hole isn't tapped and the Rodend tapers aren't reamed. Those things I'll do manually on the real ones.

Damm, those almost look too nice to put under a rig!

Those look like a shiney show amp for subwoffers or soemthing!

Purtiest steering arms Ive ever seen!

bling bling

hey i already have steering arms but could i have/buy one of those for a paper weight?

Actually there skippy, bling bling is Platinum, I'll be damned if that doesn't look like platinum. BEAUTIFUL!!!!!:eek: :D

bling bling
:confused: It doesn't have a huge whale tail or type R syicker, and its not guaranteed to give you 15 more horsepower. Why because it's all shiny? This ones made out of aluminium the real ones will be powdercoated black. Or is it because it doesn't look like some one cut it out of of a chunk of scrap metal with a cutting torch and a hack saw? All the radius' and curves are there for a reason, they increase strength. I guess it has to be ugly to work well, oh well back to the drawing board. :rolleyes:

...or does anyone else prefer some angle on thier hysteer arms to help the tie rod clear the leaf springs without having to run spacers? They are gorgeous though!

Originally posted by skank
...or does anyone else prefer some angle on thier hysteer arms to help the tie rod clear the leaf springs without having to run spacers? They are gorgeous though!

like this?

or this

I just finished machining the prototype for my new hysteer arms. I made this ones made out of aluminium to test the program, the real ones will be cut from 4140 chromoly then heat treated.

Monzter: are you writing G code for that or are you using Cad/Cam? If you use software, what is it? :usa:

how much?
when will they be available?
cut a local guy a good deal?;)

montzer. nice looking work.

Originally posted by Alaska Offroad
Monzter: are you writing G code for that or are you using Cad/Cam? If you use software, what is it? :usa: I'm using Mastercam 8 it would take forever to write it by hand.

Originally posted by monzter

:confused: It doesn't have a huge whale tail or type R syicker, and its not guaranteed to give you 15 more horsepower. Why because it's all shiny? This ones made out of aluminium the real ones will be powdercoated black. Or is it because it doesn't look like some one cut it out of of a chunk of scrap metal with a cutting torch and a hack saw? All the radius' and curves are there for a reason, they increase strength. I guess it has to be ugly to work well, oh well back to the drawing board. :rolleyes:

Easy, I don't think they are bashing your product, just having fun

Originally posted by monzter

:confused: It doesn't have a huge whale tail or type R syicker, and its not guaranteed to give you 15 more horsepower. Why because it's all shiny? This ones made out of aluminium the real ones will be powdercoated black. Or is it because it doesn't look like some one cut it out of of a chunk of scrap metal with a cutting torch and a hack saw? All the radius' and curves are there for a reason, they increase strength. I guess it has to be ugly to work well, oh well back to the drawing board. :rolleyes:

They are just screwing with ya.....Don't touch anything....they are a very nice design....You might wanna see if you can "raise" the arm to clear springs......Very Nice Job!!!! keep up the good work...:beer: :D :beer:

Are you using solids?

I have a friend who is still doing all his programing by hand, and he is running 4 axis machines. What a pain in the arse! At least he is only doing simple stuff, no surfaces. Glutton for punishment though :D

Anyway, nice work:usa:

this is like porn.. but not

These look really nice!

I have a couple suggestions though. Please take this as helpful suggestions not criticism, I think the arms are exceptionally crafted.

If you haven't already purchased the material you might want to consider 4340. A little better heat treat capabilities, probably not much difference in cost unless you're supplier doesn't stock it.

The 2 bolts/studs closest to the steering arm remove quite a bit of material from the "beam" of the steering arm and will create a stress concentrator. If you removed the "pocket" and put in longer studs you could reduce the stress concentrator.

If you change the radius (different cutter) on the underside you will also get an improvement although very little since the load is primarily lateral bending.

Not a major issue but if you put in an angle to offset the tie rod from perpendicular to the housing you can account for some of the Ackerman effect. It does help a little if you drive on the street with reasonably sized tires. No manufacturer that I've seen accounts for Ackerman on their steering arms. You'd have to make a custom arm for each customer. Not really cost efficient.

monzter, what brand and model mill do you have?

im not kidding i think they are trick and i love machined parts! I REALLY DO WANT A PROTOTYPE JUST TO HAVE IF ITS COOL. if not whatever

I dont get the 'raise it' comments
looks to me to have at least an inch plus of rise
strength? it has to beat the 'cut from plate' arms available from most

fawkin work of art, HOW MUCH?

Originally posted by mj
I dont get the 'raise it' comments
looks to me to have at least an inch plus of rise

While the steering arm sticks out straight, the leaf springs arc up to meet the spring hanger. Depending on the geometry involved the amount the tie rod needs to be lifted to clear the spring, especially under full articulation, can be well over an inch. I think I'm running almost 2in spacers and I've seen much taller ones. As soon as my SREs and ball joints need to be replaced I'm pulling my straight arms and spacers for arms with the proper geometry and tapers for TREs.

I have 10" superjunk springs, doubt anyone has much worse arc'd then that except those poor fools that bought the 12" version.
seems to be lots of room

Thanks for the input guys, I went back and added a 10 deg. slant to the tierod mounting hole and machined a 10 deg. flat around it to help out the drag link angle, it adds about .125" to the thickness of the arm and adds two more small operations but it should improve the function of the arm. I'll post when they are done so you guys can have a look.