: high steer on coil D30's


A 4 liter V8 eater
04-09-2002, 10:01 AM
Has anybody done high steer on a D30 on a coil spring jeep (XJ, MJ, ZJ, TJ)? If so how did you go about doing it? What did you do about the sway bar? How much would you say it ended up costing you?

Sundowner
04-09-2002, 10:30 AM
ugly answer:
grind the yokes off the tubes and put on old-style ones, probably from a CJ

Tx Outlaw
04-09-2002, 03:49 PM
There's a write-up here (http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/tjsteering/) about doing one. No costs tho.

RockGolem
04-09-2002, 04:21 PM
I know that down east offroad was working on this system, I dont know how far they are along on it yet though.
http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v5/2/99/74/31929974eLBvANDnXm_ph

bart
04-09-2002, 05:57 PM
Dave at www.xtvengineering.com has a few options and Sheldon from www.goferitoffroad.com has a neat cheap idea. Sorry, I have not fabbed up anything myself. I think I am going to goferit after he gets a few miles on some of his, though.

-Bart

mtndewmaniac
04-09-2002, 07:37 PM
Check out M.O.R.E.s stuff at www.mountainoffroad.com. They are currently working on a prototype hi-steer for the D30s on TJs and XJs. If I wasn't going D44 front on my XJ, I would seriously consider this set-up.

A 4 liter V8 eater
04-09-2002, 09:19 PM
Originally posted by bart
Dave at www.xtvengineering.com has a few options and Sheldon from www.goferitoffroad.com has a neat cheap idea. Sorry, I have not fabbed up anything myself. I think I am going to goferit after he gets a few miles on some of his, though.

-Bart

I didn't see the goferit high steer setup on their website, what does it consist of? How much will it cost? Is there a phone # I can call?

Seeker
04-09-2002, 10:18 PM
Originally posted by A 4 liter V8 eater


I didn't see the goferit high steer setup on their website, what does it consist of? How much will it cost? Is there a phone # I can call?

Call Goferit at: 336.545.8571
Fax Goferit at: 413-845-6398

From contact us on the web site :flipoff2:
Jeff

I have talked to XTV and Down East and M.O.R.E. about my ZJ and still can't decide which way to go cause I would be the guinee pig in all cases. Let me know what you do, it will help me decide. Guess I will call goferit in the am.

Grndhog
04-09-2002, 10:34 PM
Damn, are those all new knuckles on the Down East setup ? They don`t look like theres anything bolted on to them like the XTV and M.O.R.E. kits. They don`t look like WJ knuckles either. I had a chance to look at the XTV kit in person (not on a vehicle though) when I was in their shop a couple of months ago, very beefy for something going on a D30. The ball joints will die before the steering parts. Has MORE got the trac bar relocation figured out yet ?

bart
04-10-2002, 04:14 AM
Originally posted by A 4 liter V8 eater


I didn't see the goferit high steer setup on their website, what does it consist of? How much will it cost? Is there a phone # I can call?

All it is is a tapered bushing to put the DS of the tie rod on top of the knuckle. He is still playing with it, so it is not on the site yet. You drill oiut the factory hole and press & weld the bushing.

-Bart

Rookie
04-12-2002, 08:42 AM
Originally posted by A 4 liter V8 eater
Has anybody done high steer on a D30 on a coil spring jeep (XJ, MJ, ZJ, TJ)? If so how did you go about doing it? What did you do about the sway bar? How much would you say it ended up costing you?

I did. I got the Tie-rod and draglink from Campbell Enterprise. Cost was around 500. Sway bar was cut off along with the steering stabilizer. Front trackbar had to be re-bent to stop it from rubbing the tir-rod. Spring perches had to be trimmed back so I could still have full turn - and it still rubs at full turn. All in all, I don't have to worry about bending my tie-rod, but I don't know if it was worth the hassle.

Here's some pics - http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/jeeprookie/lst?.dir=/My+Photos&.view=t

Jeff 92xj WI
07-05-2002, 07:48 AM
Rookie, that is interesting. Did you use a bit of the end of the stock drag link and then thread it for the rest of the tie rod? Another perhaps easier method would have been to use a stock Jeep drag link for a right hand drive Cherokee. I did that to my xj quite awhile ago. One still needs to redo the track bar mount, the sway bar mounts, and the steering stabilizer mount then though. As for the down east setup, I haven't looked at it close, but I think it might be using a WJ knuckle on the passenger side and a RHD WJ knuckle on the drivers side with custom grand waggy style steering linkage. I'm pretty sure Jason Bunch's competition rig uses the same setup. Jeff

utahjeepr
07-05-2002, 09:12 AM
I know a guy running a hi steer on his TJ using the left knuckle from an American WJ and the right knuckle from an Austrailian WJ. If you look at a WJ knuckle you can see how this would work, You just have to get your hands on that right hand drive style knuckle. He orderered it from Australia. Another friend of mine is doing the same set up on his front 9-inch(8.8 Currie style high pinion) for his TJ

ashmanjeepXJ
07-05-2002, 10:38 AM
Originally posted by Rookie


I did. I got the Tie-rod and draglink from Campbell Enterprise. Cost was around 500. Sway bar was cut off along with the steering stabilizer. Front trackbar had to be re-bent to stop it from rubbing the tir-rod. Spring perches had to be trimmed back so I could still have full turn - and it still rubs at full turn. All in all, I don't have to worry about bending my tie-rod, but I don't know if it was worth the hassle.

Here's some pics - http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/jeeprookie/lst?.dir=/My+Photos&.view=t

I looked over your set up in the pics, and Bending the track bar may not be the best solution. I suggest you cut the entire factory track bar bracket off, then weld this bracket to your axle tube level with the top of you spring pad. This will be your new track bar mount and will keep it parell to your drag link. You will have to cut the track bar down by about 2.5in or less depending on your lift amount. In the way of bum steer parell links are more important then having equal length links.

it looks like you have an older model d30 with cast control arm brackets so you will need to pre and post heat the cast when welding and I would sugest purchasing in some high nickle content wire for your welder.

and toss those beastly aluminum links for some thinner DOM links they will help your clearance problems!!

JS-Economos
07-05-2002, 03:26 PM
Originally posted by bart
Dave at www.xtvengineering.com has a few options and Sheldon from www.goferitoffroad.com has a neat cheap idea. Sorry, I have not fabbed up anything myself. I think I am going to goferit after he gets a few miles on some of his, though.

-Bart

I'm pretty sure I'll be swapping in the Goferit tierod, as well as an M.O.R.E steering box brace.

I think his name is Bill a Vista, but he has a very detailed, lengthy knuckle swap and hi-steer upgrade on his webpage. He has even gone so far as to show what he has done before and why it hasn't worked 'till now. I wish I had the link, but I'm sure he'll chime in here soon with it.

bighair
06-23-2004, 04:26 AM
What's the part number for the Tre with the bend in it on the pass side? the driver side isn't bent, do you have clearance issues with it?

gumbojeepyj
06-23-2004, 10:06 AM
holy old thread revival batman. :eek:

at least he is searching like a good noob :smokin:

monkeyevil
06-23-2004, 11:08 AM
Use WJ stuff. Save some cash.. get HUGE brakes :D

My parts list (year I used)
WJ calipers (03')
WJ knuckles (99')
WJ rotors drilled to 4 on 4.5 (99')
YJ hubs (93')
1/4" hub spacers (I plasma cut some, but they were not tight enough to make permanent... I'm buying OGS930 here (http://www.jksmfg.com/fab_parts.htm))
1/4" caliper spacers (made mine with a holesaw and drill press)
Passanger knuckle TRE #ES2233L
Driver knuckle TRE #ES2010R
Pitman misalignment TRE #ES2027L
Knuckle/Draglink misalignment TRE #ES2026R
2 x 14024806 GM Jam Nuts
2 x 14024805 GM Jam Nuts
1.25"x .219 DOM JCRoffroad Rock Rods (http://www.jcroffroad.com/steering.html)
New brake pads (Autozone part #9454)

Caliper Notice...
The WJ has two caliper styles. The 03'+ style came with my parts from a 99 WJ. I don't know if there was a TSB or recall and they were changed over or what... needless to say if your calipers look like mine your pad part number is 9454 at Autozone. Other places will be some version of that be it 945 or 945Z... whatever. It was a PITA finding this style in stock. If you open the box and the pad has ears, they are not what your looking for :shaking: The caliper style is called "Akibunko" if that helps you.

If your calipers DON'T look like mine your part number at autozone is 7904. Your pads will have ears.

Misc
*WJ knuckles are bolt on
*YJ brake likes and banjo's bolt on to he WJ hubs, you may need to bend the hard line from the banjo 90deg as it comes out horizontal. (I know I need extended SS lines BAD)
*You may have to grind the calipes on 15" rims. My 15/10 AE054's with 3 5/8"BS cleared just fine.

Pics
WJ dual piston calipers (removed the o-ring from the prop valve (rear 8.8 drums) and I can lock up all 4 tires at 45 MPH. It's insane... hope the rear wheel cylinders can handle it :D)
http://www.evilmonkeymedia.com/jeep/xover/brakes.jpg

REAL STEERING!!! No bumpsteer, play, or vaugness in steering.
http://www.evilmonkeymedia.com/jeep/xover/steering.jpg


Words of warning if you plan on this swap.
* A lot of sites say with WJ hubs you don't need to space the hubs out 1/4"... THIS IS WRONG. YOU NEED HUB SPACERS! Doesn't matter if you use WJ hubs or XJ/YJ/TJ hubs, you need to space the hub 1/4" from the knuckle. I cut my own, but they are not a nice press fit, nor are they welded securly on the knuckle. I will be buying and welding production spacers on.

* Youw will also need to space the caliper braket out 1/4" to match the disc.

TURD POLISH! :rock:

gumbojeepyj
06-23-2004, 12:09 PM
hey those look like my springs. nice turd polishing writeup. :beer:

RocknTJ
06-24-2004, 08:41 AM
http://members.cox.net/rockntj/Steering/steering.htm

bighair
06-25-2004, 05:22 AM
THanks Guy's,
RockNTJ - I want to setup the TJ with a full Tie Rod, like on YJ setups, just on top of the knuckle. I just want to be sure if I have to shave the track bar Bracket for everything to clear. Also, in one of the pics from above, the Passenger side Tre with hole for the Steering dampner seems to be bent out for clearance and there was no part # associated.
I was just curious if this was fabbed or there is an actual part with that bend in it from factory.

MonkeyEvil - I like your swap. you find all the parts in your local yard? I have a similar setup on my 93YJ, but the cross over bracket was fabbed from a pro. Works great as you said. Only thing, is that it seems to sit a little hi on the knuckle so when I'm compressed, it hits the drag link first.
I doing some research on steering after seeing the WJ's have the cross over steer setup.. I got an Idea to see about swapping in so startied checking on here to see if anyone has done it yet, and of course, it's been done. lol. Upgrading you brakes is ALWAYS a good Idea. hehe..I may do it just for that.