I have a '99 Tahoe, 5.7L, 4x4 for my tow rig. It's really sick, here are the symptoms;

Noticable (and I mean shake the fillings out of your mouth) shake above 40 mph. Always present

Squeak and loud metal clunk upon acceleration (coming from both a stop and deceleration). Squeak fades with speed and when the Thaoe warms up. I'm assuming the slip yoke may need lubrication and I'll check it tonight.

I had brand new tires with balance/alignment done Sunday, no change at all. I've already checked all the u-joints and they appear to be fine. I hand checked the idler arm and pitman arm and they seemed to be tight (the truck lifted as I pushed but they didn't move). The links connecting steering to knuckles can be turned clockwise/CCW by hand around the rotation of their joint (is this normal?). There doesn't seem to be too much slop in the CV's up front. Just like 1/8" slip. Unless I just can't tell about a loose steering link, but FAWK. Noticed a small amount of what appeared to be motor oil on the PS box (could be dirty PS fluid). I'm dumbfounded. Like I said the shake is severe and really noticeable above 30-40.

The Tahoe has 40,000 and is on warranty to 60,000. I'm dropping it off tomorrow at the dealer but just don't want them to try and fuck with me like they always do (it's this and sorry but that's not covered, yeah that's covered but we found this also and it's not covered and caused the problem). Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.

hmmmmm I have a shaking in the steering wheel of my 99 Tahoe also, after alot of chewin ass at the dealer and talking to a few people is was determined that the shaking was caused by the tire width. I'm running 285/60 R18 on it. The shaking smoothed out till I had the tires rotated, then returned. The dealer is gonna want to put the "updated Fluid" in your tranny and flush out the old...not sure if any of this will help you out, sounds like you may have a deeper rooted problem....good luck with the dealer

I run a 245/75 R16 on it. That's the size they ship them from the factory with. If they tell me it's the tires then they can blow me and give me some new ones.

I've heard of late 90's chevy's having problems with the joint at the idler arm wearing out. Not sure if it would cause this constant vibration, or if it would be noticable to a visual inspection.

I started having this vibration about 3 months ago. Now with having added new tires and that not fixing the problem, it has finally gotten to the point that I have to get it looked at.

Anybody else?

It sounds like a bound up u-joint to me. The u-joints wont feel loose if you just grab em and try to wiggle them. You may have to remove the driveshaft and flex each joint. one will feel "tight". Pull the caps, you will probably find one cap that has siezed needle bearings.

Is there a carrier bearing on that driveline? If so, check that. I had an old pickup with the same symptoms and I replaced all ujoints and the carrier bearing on the driveline and it was butter smooth after that.

My wifes truck did the EXACT same thing. Except it's a 99 S-10 Blazer.

The techs all stood there like idiots until I asked if they had checked the front driveshaft. They had this thing going on the rack with the CC set at 60 MPH in 4 wheel drive, after telling my wife that "She must have driven in 4x4 over 35 mph" and that was the problem. Assholes :flipoff: I will NOT buy another truck from them as their service sucks.

So I pulled the truck from there and took it home. Pulled the front shaft, drove it, and bingo....no more shake. Took it back with the intent of beating the service manager with it, and they replaced it, no questions asked.

So all in all, pull the front driveshaft and drive it. I bet that solves your problem.

OH yeah just to warn you, they WILL tell you it's the tires. They swore up and down it was the tires on our truck. Fawkers....brand new tires don't shake. Especially Bridgestones

So I pulled the truck from there and took it home. Pulled the front shaft, drove it, and bingo....no more shake.

pull the front driveshaft and drive it. I bet that solves your problem

I'll do it as soon as I get home tonight. I don't know why I didn't think of that sooner. Hopefully your right so I can just take it in and tell them "I pulled the front shaft and the vibration is gone, now fix it." These Chevy's are set up so the front shaft always spins, even in 2wd, correct?

By the way GloNDark nice avatar. I took that and put it as my background. Beaker was definitely one of the coolest muppets :smokin:

Originally posted by bigdude
These Chevy's are set up so the front shaft always spins, even in 2wd, correct?

Yes, thats why you should trade that POS in for a FORD :flipoff2: By the way, I tested the axles out I bought from you this weekend. Everything worked great, except I need 35's now :D .

Yes, thats why you should trade that POS in for a FORD

I'll stick with my low budget Escalade, but only because I got a hella deal on it. I bought it last May with 13,000, it's a '99 4x4 with LT trim (leather and sh@t) and it's on warranty to 60,000. I only paid $21,000. Original sticker was like $39,000. It blue books right now (if it wasn't shaking) for around $23,000.

I tested the axles out I bought from you this weekend. Everything worked great

See maybe now you can sart to trust stuff over the internet, I told you I wasn't selling you junk.

I've got some Ford stuff anyway. My HP60 front and my Jeep's new master cylinder:flipoff2:

front d-line sounds like a good assumption.....but check out the 10 bolt and everything attatched to it ;) just to make sure. The slope off of violence when warm makes it sound like a u-joint though...but I have seen 10 bolts do f-cked up things when used to tow (I have also seen them survive a lot so it's a toss up)

Hey no problem. I hope that is the problem. They had my wifes truck for almost 2 weeks before I finally said "Enough is enough morons....let me look at it"

And yes the front CV's, front Diff and the front shaft will spin in 2 wheel drive. The damn moron at the dealer tried to tell my wife she must have driven in 4x4 over 35 MPH, and she must have fried the front diff, imagine his surprise when she said, you're a moron, the front spins continously, because it doesn't have a way to unlock it at the hub. Oh man I wish I could have seen that...hahaha

The slope off of violence when warm makes it sound like a u-joint though

The squeaking goes after warm-up, that's why I suspected a u-joint.

But the shake, that's constant, never fading over 40 mph, and damn is it bad. Worse than I ever had on my Jeep w/o a SYE.

You may check the front CV's, wheel bearings, and check the wheel temp up front after a few miles and see if one hub is getting hot.. Or just get a louder stereo :D . As far as the chevy crap goes, as long as your not wheelin it, it might as well be a comfy ride.

While reinstalling the front driveshaft (which did not relieve the problems) I looked once more toward the rear.

The driveshaft looked a little cockeyed. I don't know how I missed it before. Yep, rear driveshaft u-joint at the differential. One of the ears looks like it's just widdled itself down to a nub. They are non-greasable from the factory and I'm guessing my previous life in Indiana afforded some much needed salt/water into the joint aiding in it's demise.

Called the dealer, it's covered and so is any possible damage it might've caused to the yoke. Even though it's only a $13 joint I'm still taking it in.

Thanks for all the help:D

On a side note I think it's sad how we all feel most car dealers are incompetent and out to fawk us. So we are forced to diagnose problems on our own time to avoid them trying to screw us.