jeepguy454
04-07-2006, 05:12 PM
i built a jeep with a 454 in it it runs great it doesnt overheat but its close i have an aluminum radiator big as i could fit electric fan shroud and an oil cooler and im runing a 160 stat with a stock water pump is there any thing eles that can be done to help make this thing run cooler
Have you cut out the fenders to get more cool air in? Can you get a manual fan in there? They work better with a shroud of course. Hood vents?
avainaffairs
04-08-2006, 01:48 AM
I pulled the hood of my truck, keeps the engine at around 180 if I dont push it
Kwissman
04-09-2006, 03:54 PM
Try running a coolant additive called Water Wetter made by Redline. It will probably take two bottles and less antifreeze. It dropped my temps on my BB Camaro over 15 deg in traffic. I would also think that a 180 deg t-stat would be better. The 160 is just sitting open the whole time not allowing the water to stop in the radiator to cool. The 180 should cycle to allow the water to cool down in the radiator a little.
Backncardr
04-09-2006, 05:45 PM
x2 on the Wetter Water. Also take a look at this: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/waterpumps.html
f0cker
04-09-2006, 06:22 PM
What temps are you getting? I run a 180* thermostat in my truck with a manual fan, and it stays at about 200-210* even after a few minutes at or near the redline.
GMCTruxrule
04-09-2006, 09:45 PM
Ignition timing advanced too much can cause your engine to overheat as well.
HsOffRoad
04-09-2006, 09:46 PM
X2 on the overly advanced timing.... also the engine leaning out (lack of fuel) will make it run hot, as well as lugging it with tires that are too large or towing heavy loads with insufficient power/gear reduction.
An old hot-rod trick is to drill 3 small (1/16" - 1/8") holes in the outside ring of the thermostat to allow some coolant past it before it opens, and a little additional flow after it opens. Believe it or not it is usually good for a 5-7 deg. drop in temps at idle. In the buggies, I don't use thermostats at all, just a restrictor plate in the water neck to slow things down a little.
Also, aluminum radiators disperse heat far faster than copper/brass units, and the universal units don't really cost that much for what you get out of them. I use griffen 2 row aluminum circle track radiators in pretty much everything I build... and I highly recommend them. Nothing else makes as large of a difference as a good radiator.
Next,a good solid mechanical fan with sharply angled blades helps a ton, especially at idle. If you cam use a fan shroud, that will help even more. In our old buggy, we initially ran a performance fan to save weight & drag. When it started running hot, we swapped in an old mechanical fan from a late 1970's/early 1980's chrysler police car. After the swap, it never overheated again. The difference in flow at idle was so significant that before the swap, if you placed a piece of paper on the front side of the radiator at idle, it would fall off. After the swap, you could place the same piece of paper on the GRILLE (approx 4 inches away from the radiator) and it would stick like glue at idle. Huge improvement in airflow.
Lastly, if it's an off-road only vehicle, consider leaded race gas (or at least a 50/50 leaded/unleaded mix). The lead in the gas helps it burn much cooler... th difference is honestly amazing. In my 2 stroke motorcyle, if you run unleaded, the engine gets hot enough to make your leg uncomfortable through pants from 3-4 inches away. With straight 115 leaded race gas, you can comfortably rest a gloved hand the cylinder - even after riding it hard for a few minutes. The lead also lubricates and cushions the cylinder walls & valvetrain components. Of course, it's expensive, polluting, and will clog catalytic converters so it should really only be used on dedicated race vehicles without cats.
Hans
longwell789
04-10-2006, 07:46 AM
If its a newer motor you can run Lucas synthetic oil and a synthetic stabilizer.(newer as in not to wore out were the oil might slip past the seals etc.)
It helps keep our big block cool and made a huge difference. X2 on a victor series water pumper from jegs. Have one on my 406 with the rad. in the bed and it pumps massive amounts of water.
GL
jeep450
04-10-2006, 09:22 AM
Install some spacers at the hood hinge to allow hot air to exit out the top. March pulleys to speed up the water pump rpm. High flow water pump. You said alum rad, how many core and what size? Header wrap on headers if you have them. I have seen where a thermostat too cold will not allow the coolant to exchange the heat fast enough.
Blazr77400
04-10-2006, 02:55 PM
Try this.
Evanscooling (http://www.evanscooling.com/main21.htm)
avainaffairs
04-10-2006, 04:18 PM
You know another thing I have herd of is a water injection system.
I just did a quick google search and found this http://www.rallycars.com/Cars/WaterInjection.html
I herd about this on another forum, I dont have any personal experience with it but from what I have read and herd, it does a lot to keep a big block runnng cool
Found something else for you to look at.
http://www.coolingmist.com/