Right now I've got a 3 in. body lift and Trailmaster shocks and leveling coils and 32" tires but it just isn't doin it for me. Its a 97 ranger, 4x4. I can't afford the kits with new radius arms cause I'm still at school and don't have the $$$ (maybe get some used ones.)

Anyway, does anyone have recommendations as to what lift to get? I hear Skyjacker all the time.. Thanks
Jason :beer:

rough country cheap effective and i beat the shit out off it
frame broke first www.roughcountry.com :D :D

Solid axle swap, otherwise go to Offroad Rangers (http://www.offroadrangers.com)

Originally posted by alx
rough country cheap effective and i beat the shit out off it
frame broke first www.roughcountry.com :D :D
Yep I agree. I havent messed mine up one bit and it still is going strong 4 1/2 years latter.

Originally posted by Lifted_95
Solid axle swap, otherwise go to Offroad Rangers (http://www.offroadrangers.com)
Heard somewhere thats the JU of the ranger world hahahahahahahahahah.

That site seems to have been overrun by coneheads with 2wds that think they can outwheel 4X4s:rolleyes: Sure, maybe in the boring flat desert. No thanks.http://www.contrabandent.com/cwm/s/cwm/3dlil/puke.gif

If everyone's telling you Skyjacker, shouldn't that say something?
I've been bashing mine in the rocks for 5 years now and havent had a problem with it. Compare that to a Rancho kit that I busted up in less than 2 years, and Stupidlift arms in 8 months..

The best source for Ranger/Explorer mods/info I have run across is
www.therangerstation.com .
Theres gobs of info there about almost anything you can think of.

As for "solid axle swap", do it right and use a Dana60.
The stock Dana35 TTB axle in a Ranger is a pretty stout hi-pinion unit. Its axle U-joints are the same as whats in a fullsize F-150's Dana44.

wow ii guess if were goin to plug our favorite ranger spots go here and ask about solid axle swaps RRORC (http://www.rrorc.dns2go.com/) many people have done it and most have done it correctly :flipoff2:

I have a friend in the SLC area who installed a Tuff Country lift on an '89 Bronco (not be confused w/Rough Country). Tuff Country is based somewhere around SLC and are apparently popular in that area because they are local. FWIW, he said it rode like a shopping cart. This says nothing for the quality of their brackets, just that their coils are too stiff. YMMV, but if you're still wanting a relatively smooth highway ride you might look elsewhere.

I ran a skyjacker lift for 8 years. For the most part I was as happy as could be, other than the fact I spent $700 too much on it. You can do a solid axle swap for that, including the price of the axle. It's no more difficult than installing a TTB lift.....probably easier.

BTW extended arms on a TTB are a waste of time and money. You'll be far better off spending that money on a locker or something productive.

Originally posted by D60
I have a friend in the SLC area who installed a Tuff Country lift on an '89 Bronco (not be confused w/Rough Country). Tuff Country is based somewhere around SLC and are apparently popular in that area because they are local. FWIW, he said it rode like a shopping cart.

Wasn't Tuff Country also the one with the stupid-ass adjustable camber drop brackets?

Originally posted by sclemons

Wasn't Tuff Country also the one with the stupid-ass adjustable
camber drop brackets?

Yep, they do sell some sort of a camber adjustment bushing that goes at the TTB pivot. Never seen one in person, tho, dunno if they work. They also have radius arms that look real pretty but I hear they bend easily, which is understandable looking at them - they're tubular and bent to clear the tire, but the bend is not gusseted or anything. A hard hit from the front and I think they would just fold at the bend. See them here:
http://www.tuffcountry.com/radarms.htm

Originally posted by 4x4junkie


As for "solid axle swap", do it right and use a Dana60.
The stock Dana35 TTB axle in a Ranger is a pretty stout hi-pinion unit. Its axle U-joints are the same as whats in a fullsize F-150's Dana44.
A dana 60 in a ranger?
Go spend SAS on a D44, why drop 2000 bucks builing a 60 to go from TTB, spend 500 and get a D44

This is all helpin me out a lot, thanks guys. Keep it comin! :beer:

This is a hardcore site, everyones gonna tell you the same thing, solid axle, solid axle, solid axle. A SAS can be done for the same price as a :rainbow: drop bracket lift.

Originally posted by Nobody

BTW extended arms on a TTB are a waste of time and money. You'll be far better off spending that money on a locker or something productive.
And why is that??

You're saying lots of caster change, 8-10" max travel and having to replace the radius arm bushing every few months is good?? Who told you that?

Originally posted by welndmn
A dana 60 in a ranger?
Go spend SAS on a D44, why drop 2000 bucks builing a 60 to go from TTB, spend 500 and get a D44

Because a Dana44 is not very much stronger than the Ranger Dana35. Only the ring & pinion, diff and case are stronger. The axleshafts are the same. Money spent on a SAS would be more productive with a Dana60. Sure its expensive, but thats what it takes to go hardcore.

I made the mistake of swapping a D44 into mine some years back after popping an axle joint on my original D35. After procuring the D44 axle, locker, gears and what not, and narrowing it, I came to discover the D44's U-joints are the same damn thing!! Spicer 297s. I was PISSED:mad3:
I let some dumbass tell me the D44 was the shit and that my Ranger's axle was a POS. :mad: This was back in '97, when I didn't have a computer, and I'm not sure most of these 4X4 boards were around then, anyway. So my sources for research were somewhat limited back then.
Well, I have since popped another U-joint on the D44. So it didn't solve anything for me. I am only trying to save others from making the same mistake, if its axle joints they're busting.
Now, because I already put money into a D44, I may have to look into those CTM joints or something to go back to planting the right foot all the time. (unless I stumble over a cheap F-350 SRW D60, but I don't see that as very likely)

A dana 60 is a major investment, and overkill for the average joe. Not to mention it's a heavy sunofabitch. It will also require a fair amount of fabrication.

A dana 44 is plenty strong, and can be made very strong. Personally I like the idea of warn shafts and CTM's. Although I don't think I'll ever need them. I'll be plenty happy with a trail spare or two.

The beauty of a dana 44 swap is cost, and difficulty vs a TTB lift. This guy doesn't want to be a hardcore rockcrawler. He just wants a good lift. I only wish someone had opened my eyes before I wasted $700 on a TTB lift.

Dana 60 just isn't the answer to everything, and for people like myself, isn't even an option because of cost. A dana 60 will cost far more than a TTB lift kit, and a Dana 44 will be considerably less, including the axle.

Originally posted by 4x4junkie

And why is that??

You're saying lots of caster change, 8-10" max travel and having to replace the radius arm bushing every few months is good?? Who told you that?




he he he...I tried to explain this to the bone heads at rrorc, and they all got their panties in a bunch. I guess no one likes to be told they wasted their money.

"no no, I definately have an extra inch of droop"

A dana 35 TTB is WEAK, yes it uses 297, big deal, the whole TTB assy is weak (do to the sissor desgin), weak swing arms, weak hubs and so on.
Telling somone to get a D60 from a D35, is like going from a 30 inch tire to 44's, Let him start slowly, before falling head over hells
IMO you need like 38-39 for a min to run a 60
They are heavy, and hang low
Also with a sold axle you can get upgraded cromo shafts, hmmm did you notice no one even cares about the TTB axles?
I too wish i had a 60, but i never really see it happing

Well, if the whole D35 is weak, its not weaker than its 297 U-joints.
I did wonder about its hubs. They do seem lightweight. Although I have heard of them often blowing, mine stayed together. Even if they did blow, Warn has a hub thats supposedly even stronger (its part of their Jeep YJ/TJ full-float kit). That would solve that.

The scissor aspect is not what makes it weak. The open channel backside of the beam would be more of a concern. Sure it has an extra U-joint, you have to remember this one is not subjected to the same angle of stress as the ones at the knuckles and wouldn't be as likely to fail.

The BIG problem is all these POS lift kits for them. They are whats weak.
As I stated above, I busted up a Rancho kit pretty bad. Nothing on the TTB axle itself failed (other than the driver side axle joint. This area is no different solid/TTB).

If you have a D44 already laying around, and it has the right gears already in it, I would fully agree it would be cheaper to put in than buying a TTB lift. But more often than not, people don't have these things just laying around.
In my area, an EB D44 goes for well over $500. Adding gears and the rest of whats needed to get it installed would not make it cheaper vs. lifting with the D35.

The EB Dana44s (what most people seek to swap into Rangers, it seems) have even SMALLER 5-260X U-joints, and is not even RC.
That would be the last thing I'd want if I'm already busting 297s.

If I could do it all over again, I would definately go with a D60, and shave it a bit. The 60's joints would have solved my axle breakage for good, unlike the D44.
Maybe I'm just too rough for a 44, but the 35 fared no worse.
As for a D60's weight, all the better for keeping the rubber side down.


I only threw all this out because someone started automatically yelling "SOLID AXLE SWAP!" at this guy.
I agree. He doesn't appear to be going as hard core as myself or most others on here. Which is why I think the Dana35 with its 297s will be more than adequate for him. He just needs to get a lift that won't fail on him. The Skyjacker is one of only two I know of thats durable (James Duff is the other).



Originally posted by Nobody
he he he...I tried to explain this to the bone heads at rrorc, and they all got their panties in a bunch. I guess no one likes to be told they wasted their money.

"no no, I definately have an extra inch of droop"
Yep! I guess so
Funny how mine got me 15" of travel, and that some people got almost 20" with theirs. Yeah that was a waste of money:rolleyes:
I see you have quite a good understanding of how a shorter arm would have more movement at the end for a given range of motion:rolleyes:
I think that herb you're smokin' is messin' with your brain :eek: :rasta:

Originally posted by 4x4junkie

Yep! I guess so
Funny how mine got me 15" of travel, and that some people got almost 20" with theirs. Yeah that was a waste of money:rolleyes:
I see you have quite a good understanding of how a shorter arm would have more movement at the end for a given range of motion:rolleyes:
I think that herb you're smokin' is messin' with your brain :eek: :rasta: [/B]

Ohh my..... you're serious :eek: :eek:

Do you have any before and after pictures your truck with standard arms, and then extended arms? On a ramp preferably.....

20" of TTB travel would be sweet for the desert. For the rocks...not so much. I'd take 15" SA *flex* over 20" TTB *travel* in the rocks. That's just me, YMMV.

4x4Junkie, you are right I am not as hardcore as many of the people here...If I had the $$ and time (I'm in college), I'd be wheeling a lot more and probably would do a SAS or build up a different vehicle. But I don't, so I can't. :( Thats pretty much why sticking with the D35 TTB makes sense for me. But, if anyone wants to give me a Dana 44 or 60..........:flipoff2:

Jason:beer:

Seein as how ya don't plan on bein hard core fer a bit, Skyjacker is tough... I love mine, and heard very few complaints about it between explorer and ranger guys.... Superlift... Heard lots of problems about them...
Pete

P.S. I'm running 6in Skyjacker Class II on my Sport.... Sure, I do wish I went solid axle (will next winter) but it's one hell of a lift.. and I've beat the $hit outta mine

I can tell you first hand, on almost all this shit.

I had a 5.5" superlift and cracked and welded a few times.

I put in a skyjacker 6" class 2.

That was exactly 1 year ago when I installed it. Now, my springs have sagged, my ball joints are SHOT, the wheel bearings NEVER stay tight, and as far as the extended radius arms....yeah, wheres the big difference. The rear leafs are nice though, they hold up, and actually except the weight of the cargo you put in the bed.

Sure, the 35 and 44 axles and u-joints are the same, but the spindles and bearings are different. Anyone who has a clue knows that if you have 2 wheel bearings the same size they will come loose. The 44 has a better set up at the wheel IMO. The ring and pinion are stronger, and the bearing issue speaks for itself.

I now have a dana 44 from a 74 bronco that is getting rebuilt and will be going in very soon. I wasted $1200 on a lift, not ashamed to admit it. I thought that things would be cool on the trail with it, and they aren't. I wheel a lot of nasty wash-outs that are similar torocks, and the TTB fries my ass.

The 44 swap is gonna be cheaper, and WAY more effective. So if you aske me, go SAS, thats the best way to go.

Yes, Pavelow is correct about the wheelbearings. They can be a problem with wide wheels such as standard offset 15X10s or wider.
The bearing races are spaced narrower on the D35 than with a D44/60, and the leverage from the wheel sticking way out can take a toll on them.
I ran 15X8 wheels with 12.50 wide tires on my D35 and they were never a problem.
It seems this is the key to not having problems with the 35s wheelbearings. Plus 15X8s are better in a 12.50 tire, anyway.

My springs never sagged, though. I don't know why. Maybe I got lucky? Maybe I put them in differently? I don't know. I put them in the obvious way they're supposed to go in. I have a buddy I helped put his Skyjacker on his truck. No problem with his springs, either:confused:
I have heard the spring sag thing several times. Skyjacker's are manufactured a bit on the short side, maybe this is what people are referring to? A spacer under the bottom spring perch fixes that.


Nobody,

I would like to hear your honest theory (opinion) why you think an extended arm is bad. I gotta hear this. Do (did) you ever even have them?

Heres a pic for you of what an extended arm can do for a TTB. This one is NOT mine, but mine's damn close to the same. I'll can get you pics of mine if thats what you want.
http://www.4x4central.com/zimfrtrmp.jpg
Still think they're no good??:flipoff2:

Originally posted by 4x4junkie
Heres a pic for you of what an extended arm can do for a TTB. This one is NOT mine, but mine's damn close to the same. I'll can get you pics of mine if thats what you want.

Still think they're no good??:flipoff2:

I'm with you. If somebody's serious about getting a TTB lift, you might as well fork over the dough for the arms. I started out with rad drops, then picked up a pair of SL arms about a year later for cheap. Damn, what a difference.

For a truck that gets DD use, the reduction in caster change and the elimination of frame flex at the rad drop were worth every bit of $300.

You're not getting the big picture. I see far too many guys buying up these extendend arms and still running open diffs. You can easily buy a Dana 44 for $300.

Did I ever run them? NOPE I bought a locker. I've been around these trucks a long time, and I know a lot of people that run them. All different sorts "lift kits".

Do extended arms help? Yeah a little I guess, with droop. Of coarse this droop causes major toe in/out changes, unless you spend another gazillion dollars on a high speed steering setup, like above. TTB droop isn't really worth squat anyway. Absolutely no weight on that tire. I don't think extended arms help compression for shit, certainly not $300 worth. I find the ability to stuff a tire, far more important than droop, as that's what keeps you more level.

Do drop brackets suck? yeah, I guess compared to the extended arms they do. Assumming the extended arms are not using drop brackets as well. I ran my skyjacker junk for 8 or so years and never had a problem. I replaced the bushings 1 time, right before I pulled it last year.

Can stock arms provide equal flex? Damn near as much droop, and definately equal compression. There's a picture around of a bronco II that popped a coil, that tire stuff just fine!

Major caster changes? A lot of good caster does when your toe-in is fawked. Unless of course you coughed up for the steering crap.

Picture above:
That exploder has obviosly had some work done....how much money do think has been put into that front end? Honestly it's still not that good. Pretty good, but definately not worth the money. I would venture to say, if you swapped out the arms for stock ones, you would see some very similar results......

I definately want to see some shots of your rig....the requested before and after would be perfect. Same conditions...

Maybe pavelow can help me here, there was a big thread about this on RRORC where I got my butt kicked by all the panty bunchers. In that thread there were two identical trucks, one with and one without the extended arms. They both drove up the same ramp. I'd like to see those again.

Bottom line:

TTB sucks...don't give me the desert racing, jumping, whatever argument.... These guys are running on trails, and slow speeds...hell most of them never go wheeling anyway.

You'll spend way way way to much on a TTB, just to get it to work "OK" as above.

Is a solid axle swap for everyone? Nope...but I think it's best for most. Even for the mall runners. It's way way cheaper. Listen to the guys that have run both...... TTB just doesn't compare .

Here's a quick price break down my SAS:

Dana 44 - $250 (I paid $500 for a parts EB)
Duff coils $115
78/79 radius arm brackets $25
track bar bracket $15 (material)
misc nuts bolts $50 ( I actually paid nothing)
Brake line $25
misc whatever $100 ... this was not used but I'll tack it on for arguments sake.

=$580 ahhh hell throw on another $200

=$780 fawk we're still not close the the skyjacker stage II

+ $400
= $1180 there we go.... now lets sell some shit

minus
$200 for my old lift
$200 for my old axle

mmmm back down to $780

Do I need to post the big picture?

While we're at it I'll post expenses for my D60 front swap:

'87 D60 front (incl stock tie rod/drag link which works fine for me right now): $1000
ARB locker: $625
ARB compressor: already had, but will plumb into my York soon
R&P: don't recall exactly - around $250? (5.38s for the D60RC are not as common)
Leaf springs (homebrew) and hangers: $50
Two Rancho 9ks: $130
Two F250 shock mounts: $10
Ubolts: $40
Misc hardware: $15
Misc scrap steel: $20
Labor for gear install: free

So, that's $2140, not exactly cheap but for what I gained it's well worth it *to me*. If you wanted coils cost would rise, dependent upon your fab skills. Delete the ARB and it becomes more affordable, but if you have to pay for labor for gear install it climbs back up.

Then sell D44 TTB lift: -$200
D44 third w/4.56: -$50
Superrunner steering: -$150
TTB 8 lug stuff: -$200
TTB inner axleshafts: -$50

That brings it down to $1490, not too bad considering a 6" TTB Superlift w/ext rad arms and new rear springs and Superrunner steering will easily approach this. As for rear lift I just did a shackle flip at virtually no cost to me (about $30).

Of course most of this applies to full-sizes only. If you've got a smaller rig and don't wanna run a full-width axle that complicates matters considerably (narrowing a D60).

I'm not saying this swap is for everyone or even desireable, just posting my real-world experience thus far.

Well, I also have run both TTB/solid (not on the same vehicle, though, if that matters much).
I just don't see this big huge gigantic difference between the two that everyone says there is. I do see smaller differences, such as the solid being easier to align. A stock solid axle suspension usually outflexes a stock TTB by a good margin, but that difference tends to fade when you start modifying things. I could imagine where a TTB might get caught up in a deep rock "V" crack or something, but it hasnt happened (to me, anyway) Then all the POS weak TTB lift kits that are hard to avoid if you don't know about them (THIS is whats giving TTBs a bad name. As above, Sky., and Duff are the only two that are worth a shit).
And without having had the extended arms, I'm not sure how valid your arguement is. Yes, I understand knowledge can be had from looking at other's shit, but its not the same as having personal experience with them.

I have to say you did good on finding cheap prices for yours. "Parts" EBs don't come around everyday(at least not locally. Then you pay to ship parts)

Because it takes someone with a little knowledge of axles and some fabbing skills, to do this stuff, and collect all the parts together (Yes I know that includes most out here, but not sure about Mainehick. He can correct me if I'm wrong :D ) I thought I'd share what it costs to make a TTB quite trailworthy (seeing's how you think its so much more).

Skyjacker Class2 pivot brackets(bought seperately), $190 (pt#CHB352)
Skyjacker 136 coils, $120
Extend stock radius arms 15" using 2" DOM tubing, about $30
'78,'79 F-150/Bronco radius arm mounts, $25 (I used your price, as I made my own mounts).
Drop pitman arm, $60(you didn't say if you had one)
Material to lower bumpstops 2.5", $.25
20.75" ext. length shocks, $70 for RS5000s (Pt#5115) You forgot those, too, unless it (and the pitman) was in that extra $200 you "threw" on.
Brakelines, $30 ($80 for DOT Stainless braided, includes a rear line)
Electricity, gas and wire for the welder, $1 (just a guess)
Some :beer: after you finish, $3.

This setup will give about 4.5" of lift on a 4.0truck (a little more on a lighter BII or 4cyl) with about 12" of flex, and a total (bump-to-droop) of 14", measured at the wheelhub. Thats over twice what an A-arm/torsion bar suspension would have, and is within the same realm as a solid axle. The toe in/out thing wont be an issue with this setup, as well. That starts to become a problem only when you get over 5" lift or so.
The 4.5" height doesn't raise the CG too much and 35s will still fit fine with a bit of Sawzall work on the fenders.

I would say $529 and 25 cents is a pretty good deal. Its less than your example.

I am in no way saying this is better than the solid, but it seems a bit more practical if you already have a TTB (at least the D35 one. The D28 in non-4.0V6 Rangers is a total POS).


Sure that Exploder has a lot of fab work, but a lot of it wasn't needed to get its flex. It was sort of an experimental project.
It also has custom 325lb.-in. coils (sky. 136s are about 425). Simply substituting these (and a longer shock with raised upper mount) in my above example and lowering the bumpstop only 1.5" will net another 5" or so flex. Thats about 900RTI in that pic.

I will try to dig up some pics on mine.

D60,
That price you have for your 60 swap sounds quite reasonable.
I would've gladly paid that instead of the $900 or so I wasted on putting in a D44.
I narrowed the 44 myself, so I think I could also handle a 60.

I didn't add shocks because they will be required with any lift, and cost the same. Forgot about the drop pitman arm, which I have....however, with a tie rod over, I don't think it would be necessary with a solid axle.

The difference between your price break down and mine is you completely low balled everything, and I was very very generous. I felt I got a good deal on my parts bronco, but dana 44's can easily be had for $250 - $300. Even if they are full width, they are a sinch to cut down. Alx can testify to that.

A SAS is no more difficult than installing a TTB lift. The hardest thing is building a track bar bracket, and that's really easy.

Having been there done that, I think the 44 swap is far more practical, and the end result is 100% better. The SAS really comes alive when you add a wristed arm. I don't believe you have one??

If someone can dig up some before and after photo's of stock arms vs. extended arms, nothing else changed....I guarantee they will speak for themselves.

Now, if you were to build some home brew extend arms, as mentioned above, you really have nothing to loose. But we both know most have to pay $300 hard earned dollars for a pair.

I'm not quite sure how you justified not buying the steering stuff to keep the toe in check. What I understood, was you said you wouldn't get enough travel for it to make a difference??

spending the same amount of cash on either setup, the solid axle is money spent much more wisely.

I guess we're both beating a dead horse here, but at least the argument has been made for each side. People can choose for themselves.

Yeah, I think you're right, the horse is pretty much dead.

My whole point was just; why put something else in that has the same (or smaller) parts than what you are already breaking? (297s, or 297>260?:rolleyes: ) This is what my scenario was.
I never bent the TTB arm, had any problems inside the diff etc., just the 297s.

To answer your steering question,
almost all dropped pitmans are about 3" drop, regardless of the lift's height it came with. I think they do this on purpose so's not to overstress the sector shaft (or maybe the frame). When you put a 6" lift on, the arm's drop isn't matching the distance the axle was moved down. Thus the angles on the tierods, creating the bumpsteer (toe in/out). This is likely what you've observed probably more than once. A 4" lift more closely matches the arms drop (1" difference). This makes the toe variations much less. It still toes in a bit at the extreme bottom of its travel, but not enough to be noticable (at least to the driver, anyway).
Yes, the steering linkage is the bane of tall lifts on a TTB. This certainly could make for another reason to swap the axle.

Why do you say I lowballed it? If someone can fab a trackbar bracket, surely they can put a piece of stout tubing on the radius arm to extend it. I sort of stated that above my list. If you are really a good fabricator, you could even save the $190 on the brackets (might cost $20 or so in flat-stock).

My bad on the shocks:emb4: , and yes, you have to do other things in conjunction with the arms for them to provide good benefit. (The new spring & a shock thats not too short to allow full movement. The shocks provided in a lift are usually too short, negating a portion of the arms benefit).

Anyhow,
I'm going out now to polish my turd with some Warn/CTMs:beer: :p :rasta: :goofball: :beer: :barf:

I would love to go to a solid axke, but they say my crossmember is too low for anything less than about a 6" lift if I go to straight axle. I only want 3" or so. If this is true, then there is really no other option for people not wanting more lift except the TTB kits.

Originally posted by mgp
I would love to go to a solid axke, but they say my crossmember is too low for anything less than about a 6" lift if I go to straight axle. I only want 3" or so. If this is true, then there is really no other option for people not wanting more lift except the TTB kits.

Wow, this thread came back? Anyway, it's not entirely true. I'd guess an '86+ Ford D60 front will clear your xmember just fine w/4" of lift (for sure) and w/3" (maybe/probably).

Finally, just cut the damn xmember! It's only how it is so Ford could anchor the lame TTB pivots there. Chop it & build something else to go in it's place, or just weld a piece of steel across it like Broncorob did. It's not rocket science.

http://www.superford.org/registry/users/146/103/DX-11A.JPG

Doh!!! Oh, about the thread. I didn't know how old it was. I followed it from a link you posted on the broncos list about the radius arms. This is Mike P here from the list...

Don't bother with any of those kits. They are weak, have poor quality control and are expensive. Whether you choose to do a solid axle swap or to lift your TTB you are better off having custom work done.

Originally posted by 4x4junkie

And why is that??

That is because the various lift manufacturers think their extended radius arms are made of gold. Matt thinks that extended radius arms don't help. On that point I disagree BUT I do agree that the return for your dollar on aftermarket arms is pretty poor. I paid $500(Canadian dollars) for my Superlift arms. That is waaaaay too much. If only I'd known 5 years ago what I know now I could have saved a whole pile of money and had a better suspension to boot.

Originally posted by Nobody


he he he...I tried to explain this to the bone heads at rrorc, and they all got their panties in a bunch. I guess no one likes to be told they wasted their money.

"no no, I definately have an extra inch of droop"
Ihey I remeber that post it went on for like two pages, from what I have read it looks like foley was right I dont see how you can get more travel with the reg arms vs extended arms maybe its just me.
Look at the diferance.
Yours with the short arms
http://www.tarleton.edu/students/jwillms/shortarms.jpg
Justin<><

oh and heres the one with longer arms I think I see a HUGE differance.
http://www.tarleton.edu/students/jwillms/longarms.jpg
maybe its just me and that I need to get my eyes checked but it looks like the white sploder won my vote:D
Justin<><

ohhhh god, make it stop !!!!!!!!!!!

1) You can't draw lines like that......changing the camera angle directly affects your percieved view of flex....that's the truth.

2) I never claimed my bronco flexed with TTB

3) I'm pulled forward on the rock, the exploder is backed up a ramp......makes a big difference

4)As discussed earlier that exploder has extensive modifications....more than just extended arms.......my claim is if you swap just the arms to stock arms...you would see very similar results....guaranteed the same compression.

5) As pictured below.....that much flex on TTB causes more problems than helps.

6)LISTEN TO WHAT I'M TRYING TO SAY ------ For the cash you spend to get a "little" flex out of TTB, you could have a bitchen solid axle.

http://www.4x4central.com/zimfront5.jpg

Originally posted by RadioFlyer91

Ihey I remeber that post it went on for like two pages, from what I have read it looks like foley was right I dont see how you can get more travel with the reg arms vs extended arms maybe its just me.
Look at the diferance.
Yours with the short arms
http://www.tarleton.edu/students/jwillms/shortarms.jpg
Justin<><

I'm not claiming you get more travel out of stock arms.......I do claim the stock arms will provide plenty of movement for the workable range of TTB

Ohhhh look, solid axle and wristed arm.....barely flexes....draw some lines on this one.


http://home.earthlink.net/~mattsara/bb/after2.jpg

Originally posted by mgp
I would love to go to a solid axke, but they say my crossmember is too low for anything less than about a 6" lift if I go to straight axle. I only want 3" or so. If this is true, then there is really no other option for people not wanting more lift except the TTB kits.

Valid arguement.....no one claims solid axles are for everyone.

I can say once you have a 3" lift, you'll eventually want more. With a 3" lift you'll clear 31's and possibly 33's.....I've done the solid axle swap, and I'm running a short 33"......It "looks" just fine if that's what you care about.

As mentioned above, the full engine crossmember is only the way it is for mount TTB brackets....technically it can be cut without concern.

You could also set some bump stops....maybe

Although if all you want is a 3" lift, might as well keep it TTB.

I see your point of why you went with a solid axle but you still get a little more range of travle with the arms and you really done have to spend money on it, Just like writsted arms a good productave day in the shop can make you a good set of long radius arms and if made right they will be better then any drop braket and stock radius arm.

Plus even with the diferent camara angles you can still see that it has more flex then a stock, yes I know it is HIGHLY modifyed but even one with just extended arms can flex more, I dont have a pic right now but I will find one. So yes a stock arm works for the range of flex a stock susp. has but when you get longer springs that can flex more a longer arm can help.
Justin<><

Since the other thread offended someone, I'll repost these....

How can you argue with these photo's?

Is the tiny bit of flex gained worth $300 or more? AS I mentioned before, nothing wrong with making your own extended arms, but you're a fool for purchasing them. You and I both know that most the guys with extended arms are buying them.....if they had fab skills, they wouldn't be wasting time on TTB

I guarantee paul will change his tune as soon as he does a solid axle swap. I am quite confident he eventually will. He will probably profit from selling his old stuff in the process.

stock

http://www.homestead.com/fordranger1/files/bill1.jpg

extended

http://www.homestead.com/fordranger1/files/dave164.jpg

My first post that made it to the 2nd page! Woohoo!:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Jason:beer:

LOL... Matt I am fully aware of the faults with TTB but that does not mean you can't get it to work fairly well. In my experience extended radius arms do make a difference. The pictures that you posted are of two different trucks so it's hard to say if the arms make a difference by themselves or not.

I intend to swap a solid axle in but for now I want to get some use out of the TTB since I spent so much money on it.

Guys who think TTB is the shit, please stop posting the same two pictures of the Zimmerman's Explorer. We've all seen the pictures many times before and you really need to find more than one example.

That being said, here is one more picture of my extended arms not making any difference. :p I'm not sure if I'm serious or joking. ;)

I really really really really really really wish that I could've read this thread a few years ago... If I wouldn't have wasted so much time and money on my front end I very well could've been at a D60 by now up front for the amout of time I have taken to replace EVERY SINGLE TTB peice that could be replaced. ARG! Speaking of which, my drivers side bracket is cracked again... LOL OHHH THE HUMANITY! LOL

I can't understand why it's so hard for someone to post some simple before and after pictures with no changes other than the arms, demonstrating the dramatic improvement they make :confused: