Well, after all this time, I've finally started on my portal conversion. First step was to remove all of the stock axles and suspension. I then put two boat dollies under the truck so that I can move it around (the stacked lumber is all screwed together and attached to the dollies).

I have it at what I'd like to keep as ride height. My goal is to keep it as low as possible. From the ground to the bottom of the sliders is around 24".

First step was to put the tire in the front fender to see how much trimming was necessary. Not the best picture, but keep in mind that my fender openings have already been enlarged 2" forward and 3" rearward.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2006-04-12/1144868243_frontfenderclearance_nottrimmed.jpg

I removed the outer fender and then marked the inner fender for trimming (this is the driver side since I forgot to take a picture before I cut the passenger side).
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2006-04-12/1144868182_front_inner_fender_material_to_be_remov ed.jpg

I then placed the tire back into the wheel well to test the fit. I also placed the tire on a stack of 3 peices of lumber (approx. 4.5") to check for enough up-travel. I'm shooting for around 4" up-travel and the rest in droop.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2006-04-12/1144868152_front_inner_fender_clearance_ride_heigh t.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2006-04-12/1144868279_frontinnerfenderclearance_4_5compressed .jpg

I then trimmed the outer fender (I removed al of the material behind the flares except for enough to attach the flare to). I may end up removing more material from the inner fender, but I'll wait and see if it's necessary.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2006-04-12/1144868213_frontfenderclearance_aftertrimming.jpg

Now, on to the rear. First, I tested the fit of tire, keeping in mind that I can't trim the rear doors any more (the rear fenders have also been enlarged by the same amount as the fronts). It's obvious here that the rear axle will have to go back another 3" or so.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2006-04-12/1144868397_rear_fender_clearance_not_trimmed.jpg

I stripped out the rear trim and marked my cut lines on the wheel tubs. You can see the heavy black line that bisects the tub.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2006-04-12/1144868511_rear_wheel_tub_cut_lines.jpg

Out comes the grinder with the cutoff wheel. I also had to drill out the spot welds where the two halves of the tub were joined.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2006-04-12/1144868366_ps_rear_wheel_tub_after_cutting.jpg

Which then presented the problem of how to get access to the other half of the tub to cut it. Only way I could decide on was to remove the rear quarter panel. After removing all of the bolts and screws, and a LOT of cutting away the seam/body adhesive, the quarters came off (Thanks Cirbo!).
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2006-04-12/1144868449_rear_quarter_removed.jpg

It was at this point that the snowball effect took control. For a couple of years, I've fantasized about a soft-top conversion, and after a lot of consideration, I've decided that if I'm ever going to do it, now's the time.

So, for the last couple of weeks I've been removing everything, and I mean everything, from the interior (including dash, steering wheel, etc), in prep for the removal of the top. As soon as the top comes off, I'll get some more picts. Then I'll finish up the wheel tubs, since it will be easier to access everything with no roof.

Stay tuned...:)

Oh, anyone know someone that's looking for a DII headliner and rear storage compartments, trim, etc?

Very cool project. Don't know why I thought the c303 axles were going on an RRC.
SCSL in VA recently did the softtop on his DII. Dont remember if he is in Norfolk or Richmond area. Any how I would shoot him a PM as far as info regarding the guy that made his softtop.

BTW where did you find your portals or was it just a one of type deal?

Pete

Finally!!! Some real tech!!!

Looking good. It looks like its going to be work to fit those tires in there. I "think" the side of the tires says 35"?

39.5

Damn, dunno if I should say welcome to the butcher's club or "hey mister, can I join your club"?

Sweet work man...

Yeah, I followed Steve's soft top, and I'm in contact with him regarding the seal across the windshield header.

Tires are in fact 39.5 radials.

Axles came from Go2Guy here on Pirate. He had them in his buggy. He ran 4 wheel steer, so I'm running a stock rear, but the front has 4340 CV's and a 300M short side axle.

Dino, don't even try. You ARE the king of cutting.:smokin: Keep in mind that this will still carry my family (wife and 5 year old and 1 year old girls) on the trails as well as camping, events, etc. I'm going to try and give the top a lot of attention to make it as weather-tight as possible, and I've been in touch with Chris Laws (owner of Badger Coachworks).

Disc conversion will be used for brakes. Battery will probably end up in the back since that area will now be occupied by the front wheel wells. The air filter also went bye-bye. I have a K&N filter to use in my cone top for the snorkel. ABS is history, so the pump/module will go away, and the intake will now make a 90 degree turninto where the pump was. I'll reroute the intake hose so now it will get a straight shot into the intake.

Tires are in fact 39.5 radials.


What are the rims? Are they stock volvo units or something else?

Yes, stock Volvo. I liked the utilitarian look they have. I think they're 9" wide, but I'm not sure.

Yes, stock Volvo. I liked the utilitarian look they have. I think they're 9" wide, but I'm not sure.

For some reason the bolt pattern just looks smaller in the photos, made me curious.

looks very interesting. 39s holy shingoles...
SCSLs top turned out well, he needs to get his 34s mounted. Those ATs do not cut it here in the mud. Are you fabbing new tubs for the rear or buying some from Summit?

I'm going to keep the factory tubs, and I'll just weld in a strip between the halves to move the back half rearward about 4".

Sweet!!!!!!!!!!!

very cool:smokin:

Now this is good tech, I start my 1990 RRC with EXAXT MOG 404's, full hydro etc next week. What are you planning on doing for suspension? I am leaning on 4-link front and rear, 10" Fox coil overs up front and a 2" Emu coil spring in the rear. If the rear will not work I will probably be putting 10-12" Coil overs back there also. Keep us posted.

Up front will be link-style radius arms. Probably going to have a short upper link that ties into the lower link. There's not a lot of room under there for a third link because of the driveshaft and the cats. If I can figure a way to get the exhaust on the other side of the frame rails then I'll go with a 3 link. I have a 1.5" PSC ram for hydro-assist.

Rear will be 4-link.

All links will be 2" OD x .500" wall. Summit Racing rebuildable joints on the axle ends with RE super-flex rubber bushings on the chassis ends.

For now suspension will be coils and traditional shocks. I'd love to go with one of the AiRock systems, but can't justify the $3K!:(

Yes, stock Volvo. I liked the utilitarian look they have. I think they're 9" wide, but I'm not sure.

Just for clarification: The Volvo's are 6.5" wide from factory, but Greg's are probably widened to around 9", since he says they are that wide.

Just for clarification: The Volvo's are 6.5" wide from factory, but Greg's are probably widened to around 9", since he says they are that wide.
I have a set of volvos and the stock rims that came with them are 7.5" wide. I'm sure Agrover can confirm that.

Yes John, stock Volvo rims are indeed 7.5 inches wide. I have heard the 9 inch figure mentioned a few times on various forums and am baffled where it came from.
Bill.

I was quoting the 9" from memory. It seems that I read somewhere they were 9", but I never measured mine. They seemed wider than 7.5". With my 13.5" wide Iroks mounted, I don't seem to have that much "ballooning". When I dismount them for paint, I'll measure them, but they have not been widened.

what about the final fender openings? flairs of some sort? or leave then rough cut? or???

Looks like it's coming along.

I had been hearing various things about your build, glad to see it's underway.

I've got a few sets of factory flares that will be grafted together once I have my openings where I need them. That way it will look "stock", and not cut up.:p

Should be a good truck Greg.

Here is a part of the manual stating wheels size 16 x 7.5

I guess they look wider because the center protrudes beyond the rim itself. Anyway, skinny is good. Less chance of losing a bead when I air down.

Looking good Greg, where do you have your original guard chop thread ?
I am very interested in how the D2 goes for all the mods you have planned. I was going to build a comp D1 but if all goes well with your suspension & body mods I may invest in a D2 wreck instead.

brooksy

Brooksy, stick with the DI. If you want proof of why, take a look at what came out of mine...
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2006-04-24/1145898164_rear_harness_2.jpg

That's the harness that came out of the roof, and will have to go back in once everything's fabbed. Too many electronics in the DII for a comp rig if you ask me.

For me, the added cargo room (10" or so) is invaluable for camping with a family. Plus, I already had the rig and it just kind of evolved into my current mess.:shaking:

Here are some more updated photos.

Finally finished getting the dash removed.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2006-04-24/1145897901_dash_removed_2.jpg

This is a view from the rear of the gutted body.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2006-04-24/1145897931_interior_completely_stripped_2.jpg

The blue tape marks the cut lines, which are at the bottom of the tape.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2006-04-24/1145897952_marked_for_cutting_2.jpg

After a few cuts, and help from Jim Cirbus and Dale Knepp, this was sitting in the grass.
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2006-04-24/1145897974_left_over_roof_2.jpg

And this was left in the garage.:eek:
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2006-04-24/1145898143_roof_removed_2.jpg

And on the other side of the garage...
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2006-04-24/1145898263_pile_o_parts_reduced.jpg

Since I had the man-power available, I figured it would be agood time to put the front axle under the truck and take some measurements. I needed to see if I wanted any extra width added to the adapters for the disc conversion from Portal Tek. After looking, I'm ordering them with 1" added per side, for a track increase of 2".

Now the bad news. I wanted to keep this thing as low as possible. However, at what I wanted as ride height, here's the clearance between the top of the housing and the frame rails. First, the pass side...
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2006-04-24/1145898234_passenger_side_axle_to_frame_2.jpg

And here's the driver side...
http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2006-04-24/1145898208_drivers_side_axle_to_frame_2.jpg

There's only about 1" of room, and that goes for the oil pan as well. I REALLY wanted to keep it low, so I guess I've got some decisions to make.

I'm thinking a dry-sump and notching the frame would gain me around 3"-4", but from what I've read, the sump system is mucho $$$. Always something, isn't it?:(

Here are some more updated photo
There's only about 1" of room, and that goes for the oil pan as well. I REALLY wanted to keep it low, so I guess I've got some decisions to make.

I'm thinking a dry-sump and notching the frame would gain me around 3"-4", but from what I've read, the sump system is mucho $$$. Always something, isn't it?:(
Notch the rails, reinforce from top, lift spring towers if you are going to retain that type of suspension. Power bulge in bonnet/hood , custom sump,raise front of engine, add a few more degrees when you tilt the diff,
There it's done! when do we go for a test drive?
Bill.

Looking really good. I am excited to see the progress.

Holy crap :eek: :eek: I'll pass on the D2 I think !!

Do you have any pics on your original guard chop & how you did the plastic flares. I want to cut my D2 to allow for 35"-36" tyres. I have Mickey T Classic locks on it ATM & they give me about a 3" wider wheel track & already foul at the lower corners on the front with 33" MTR's when steering & the wheel is under compression so I thought I might as well cut to allow for larger tyres.
Nice work by the way Greg & I must say I don't envy you with all the work you have ahead of you.


brooksy

Brooksy, do a search on here because I think I posted when I first did them. I no longer have the picts.

I removed the inner fender liners (plastic). On the intake side I added a snorkel to keep from inhaling any mud, etc. since the intake opening was now exposed in the wheel well.

I then removed the plastic flares. I cut approximately 2" from the front of the fender opening, and gradually blended the radius into the original line at the top. That is, I only removed material from in front of and behind the fender opening, I did not raise the opening. Make sense?

Anyway, I also removed material from the rear of the front fender. I then took the stock flares (set A) along with a spare set (set B), and marked vertical lines. Set A was marked forward of center, set B rearward of center (each the appropriate amount). I then grafted both of the "long" pieces together to form a longer flare.

I repeated this for the rear, but in the rear you have twice as much work since you have to trim your rear doors, and you have two flarers per side.

Did any of that make any sense?

Thanks Greg, I understand what you said. I was curious as to whether you removed material from the top & how you retained the flares. Thanks for the explanation & I will have another search as unfortunately the usual search post isn't working :mad3: :(

brooksy

Greg, any updates?

Nothing exciting. Spent some time removing the stock bracketry from the rear axle, and doing the balance of rear wheel tub and door trimming. Hopefully I'll get out there this weekend and start fabbing the new wheel wells, then it's off for suspension and cage. Once those are done, THEN it will get exciting again.

Nothing exciting. Spent some time removing the stock bracketry from the rear axle, and doing the balance of rear wheel tub and door trimming. Hopefully I'll get out there this weekend and start fabbing the new wheel wells, then it's off for suspension and cage. Once those are done, THEN it will get exciting again.


Sounds good man. I just installed the spring wedges and radius arms i bought from you onto my truck this past weekend. So far I'm netting about 5" front lift, and 5.25" rear lift. Durring the afternoons this week I'm trimming the fenders to fit 37s with no rub, and make some custom D2 fender flares. In a few weeks im going to take my stock radius arms and make a jig out of them so I can do almost all of the fab work for an FZJ80 axle swap without having to have the truck out of comission for a long time.

-Don

All this, and NO pictures? C'mon man, get with it!

Sounds good though.

In an attempt to simplify things, I'm adding my pictures from all of the threads so it's easier to reference. Following are the picts from the "Updated" thread.

And the beer bottle picture.:D

And now the GOOD stuff. I spent the last four days with Andy Zuber at his shop here in Charlotte called Carolina Rock Shop. We worked around 8-10 hours each day getting this thing ready, and still ran out of time! If anyone in Charlotte ever needs some fab work done, Andy is the guy to see.

We removed ALL of the stock suspension mounts from the chassis, as I decided to go ahead and move the chassis points up to the side of the frame for additional clearance. All that cutting and grinding took all day Friday to complete.:eek:

Here's a couple of shots of the new chassis mounts.

The mounts were drawn up and laser cut from .25" steel, then bent to shape. Plus, a .25" plate was welded on each side of the chassis with a heavy-wall sleeve passing thru the chassis. These mounts won't budge!

The same method was used to mount the front upper link to the inside of the frame. You can see where we had to notch 4 of the body mounts to allow the links to clear them. These mounts will be plated and also tied into the chassis mounts.

Here are some more shots of the front suspension.

In the rear we went with an upper "A" frame arm similar to a Defender/DI setup. There isn't alot of room under there, but given the circumstances Andy did a great job with the design, getting as much triangulation and seperation as possible.

Here are the last few pictures for now.

For the steering (sorry, no close-up photos) we went with a billit pitman arm with a 1" rise. This was done to clear the tie rod during compression. You don't realize how tight everything thing is until you deal with portals. You end up with a drag link, tie rod, and pan hard all fighting for the same space.

Final stats are 6" compression, 7" droop. Shocks and mounts are not done yet, so those numbers will probably change once everything is finalized. We also didn't get around to mounting the hydro-assist.

The front springs are a little taller than I'd like, so I'll probably go with something around 1" shorter. That along with the settling should get my ride height about 1.5" lower than in the pictures.

There are a couple of things I wanted to point out before the flaming starts. All of the pictures except for it on the trailer were taken while it was on the lift at full droop. Coils are retained front and rear.

There will be alot of bracing and gusseting on the front upper link on the axle, as well as the rear upper link truss.

All of the bolts attaching the links to the chassis are not tightened, and there is a crossmember that monts under the x-fer case. These shots were taken as it was leaving the shop and all the little things were left for me to do.

The pitman arm was whittled out of a 2" chunk of steel. The splined section from the stock arm was machined into a "donut", and was pressed into the new arm. It will then be fully tig welded.

At full droop, the front driveshaft binds on the ears of the CV, so I'll grind those a littl, and if it still binds, I'll limit the droop with strap(s).

Rear springs are stock D2, but they sit high right now because of the lack of weight. Once the cage, spare, tools, etc. go in, it should sit level with the front (which will be around 1"-1.5" lower than the photo).

OK, lemme have it.:grinpimp:

Sweet, but I would worry about the threaded part of the heim in the A-frame. It will see a lot of oscillating side loads that it was not designed for. Expect it to crack at the threads/bend/work lose from the frame.

The design should be so that it only sees axial loads.

I guess I'm not clear on why you think it will fail since the heim is in the application that it was designed for. How is it different than being attached to the end of a suspension link?:confused:

Looks great.

So whose got a spare set of portals they don't need ?

Lookin" sweet, Greg!

I guess I'm not clear on why you think it will fail since the heim is in the application that it was designed for. How is it different than being attached to the end of a suspension link?:confused:

I guess he mean that it will be loaded laterally (sideways). Normally heims are loaded axially in the direction of the threaded shanks.

Sweet, but I would worry about the threaded part of the heim in the A-frame. It will see a lot of oscillating side loads that it was not designed for. Expect it to crack at the threads/bend/work lose from the frame.

The design should be so that it only sees axial loads.

Initially I don't agree with this either. But am willing to listen to a more detailed explanation. I think the threads should handle a load from any direction and as long as the rotation of the upper link is within the degrees of movement for the heim it would be ok. i.e. a 32* heim can rotate up to 32* without binding. Probably be ok.

The heim part is not the problem. It is the threaded part, that is definitely used for something it wasn't designed for. Think steering components or all the other arms in this suspension. Axial loads only.

The A-frame is the only thing that locates the rear axle sideways. It sees a lot of force there. I have seen pics of a rolled 110 where the stock A-frame had snapped.

So again, the threaded part should only be loaded axially. After learning how fast the threads in steering components wear out if not properly clamped, I would be really worried driving with this design. If it doesn't bend or snap, it will wear the threads out, I think.

Redesigning with a traditional LR balljoint would fix it. I'm also curious what bushings will be used at the other end of the A. This will obviously have to handle side forces as well, and the stock design manages by having the bushings angled, but these are not.

All the rest look sweet in my eyes, but the A scares me.

Greg,

The project is looking awesome, its sort of a weird coincidence but my axle swap project is going to start taking shape next week. Both FZJ80 axles are being sent to the fab shop next week, and the wheels and tires are being ordered in about a week or so. I should have things wrapped up by mid september. Im having a local fab shop here in phoenix do all of the fab work, because now that I am no longer in chicago, I do not have any fab tools. For now its going to have 35" BFGs or GYs, the steering is going to be all rebuilt with SS links and Heims, and my current custom 5" lift will be retained. Ill be sure to take alot of pics, as ill be in the shop daily helping out with it. Next year I'm having the front and rear 3 Linked, and probably going to 37s with hydro assist steering. But for now the new axles and 35s should be just fine.

what heim isn't threaded??

what heim isn't threaded??

Heims are threaded. That's why they can't take bending loads. Threads don't like that.

What is this discussion about? Clearly, it's part of fabrication 101 what load cases you can subject a bolt or other threaded part to without breaking it? I was merely pointing out that one heim, in an otherwise well thought out design, is used way outside what is was intended for.

Wilsby, is it the fact that the heim is threaded out that is cause for concern? In other words, if it were threaded completely into the arm, would you still have your concerns?

The bushings on the other end are rubber, so they will absorb some of the lateral forces, but not all of them, so yes, there will be lateral (shear?) loads on the shank of the heim. But won't the shanks of the other heims see shear forces as well? I'm talking about the rear lower links because I know the panhard up front is taking the lateral loads off of the links, correct?

I'm just curious as to how the shank of the heim is any different than the shank of the stock ball-joint used by Rover?

I'm not arguing with you, I'm just tryng to get a grasp on what could have been done differently. I appreciate the input you're giving me.:cool2:

Where's Puffdragon when you need him???? He usually has a very strong opinion and is not afraid to use it!

I'm just curious as to how the shank of the heim is any different than the shank of the stock ball-joint used by Rover?


That's a good point, Greg, because the shank of the ball-joint sees the same type of loading (non-axial) as the shank of your heim does.

The only counterpoint I could offer is that the shank of the ball-joint is typically tapered with an interference fit with the mount; the threads of the shank (hypothetically) only see axial loading. The threads of your heim, however, are going to see plenty of non-axial loads, which may be where the problems could arrise.

What about using the current set-up to determine the geometry you want, then replacing the heim-ed section with a ring to allow a ball-joint to be pressed in?

Wilsby, is it the fact that the heim is threaded out that is cause for concern? In other words, if it were threaded completely into the arm, would you still have your concerns?

The bushings on the other end are rubber, so they will absorb some of the lateral forces, but not all of them, so yes, there will be lateral (shear?) loads on the shank of the heim. But won't the shanks of the other heims see shear forces as well? I'm talking about the rear lower links because I know the panhard up front is taking the lateral loads off of the links, correct?

I'm just curious as to how the shank of the heim is any different than the shank of the stock ball-joint used by Rover?

I'm not arguing with you, I'm just tryng to get a grasp on what could have been done differently. I appreciate the input you're giving me.:cool2:

Greg, I'm not trying to pick a fight or anything, and I am overall very impressed by your project.

Threading the heim in a bit will reduce the stresses because the arm for the sideforces will be reduced, but only marginally. The heim will still be used way outside what it was designed for.

All other links appear to only see axial loads, unless they bind terribly in their mounts.

The stock balljoint is different, because its shank is not threaded. Threads are stress risers and you don't want to bend on them.

I would do more or less as Lucas suggests, figure out the geometry and then build a new a-frame with a normal ball joint. I would also angle the bushings at the other end so that they are perpendicular to the legs of the A. This will enable them to cope with both sideloads and the fore and aft forces when you accelerate/brake.

In theory you only need a "V", but in real life you probably benefit from the part completing the triangle. You could also re-angle the chassis end bushings a bit beyond perpendicular to cope even better with side loads.

Chister, points well taken. Thanks.

The stock balljoint is different, because its shank is not threaded. Threads are stress risers and you don't want to bend on them.


Wouldn't the serrations where the ball joint mates to the bracket give rise to similar stresses? Or, are we assuimng that this is a minor dimension compared to the rest of the body of the ball joint, the importance/risk is minimzed?

edit: I gave this a lot more thought than it needed. If the forces exerted on the ball joint were downward, The threaded tapered section is being extended, while the ball joint is also being pulled away from the bracket. In effect, we have two tapered joints both being pulled away from each other-ignoring for a moent the retention of the ball in the joint proper. It seems to me as though this might be the weak link and the stress on the heim might not be all that bad. If on the other hand, this forces were/are downward (as we would expect in all but the msot extreme situaitons), everything is now udner compression, potentially only held in place by the flange on the upper portion of the ball joint. I recognize that I've never heard of a ball joint failing in this portion of the suspension, however, it seems as though this is in fact a weak link. I merely offer this as topic for further discussion on the finer points of Rover rear suspension analysis/design.

Umm, am I missing something. The ball joint on the stock rover does not use a shank on the A arm side. The axle side is designed for lateral loads (like any ball joint)

Umm, am I missing something. The ball joint on the stock rover does not use a shank on the A arm side.

I don't think so. I was curious about stress forces against the shank side where it is serrated, that and the effect of any downward forces on it.

Obviously, I was overthinking it.

Umm, am I missing something. The ball joint on the stock rover does not use a shank on the A arm side. The axle side is designed for lateral loads (like any ball joint)

So, just because the lateral loads are applied to the shank of the ball joint at the axle, the lateral force must stop there? No, the lateral loads are borne all the way through the stock A-Arm and to the mounts of the chassis. The shank of the stock ball-joint sees lateral loads, and the threaded shank of Greg's heim joint will also see lateral loads.

After thinking about this some more, I think your Heim if fine. Just about all heims on all suspensions (4-link, 3-link, etc) will see similar loads to what you have. While a Heim is the strongest in push/pull architecture I think they hold up fine when used like yours. If you actually get concerned about this post a question in Gen4x4, they'll let you know real fast if there might be any problems.

But I think your fine. While I'm no Mechanical Engineer, I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night...

Just about all heims on all suspensions (4-link, 3-link, etc) will see similar loads to what you have.

Actually, not. It's the fact that the A-frame is three point that makes it different. That's also why it is able to keep the axle centered.

If you insist on heims, you should do a four link instead.

And no, I haven't stayed at Holiday Inn lately, but somewhere back in the mists of history is a MSc in Mechanical Engineering. I believe I majored in Machine Design. Never ever designed machinery professionally, but still...

Actually, not. It's the fact that the A-frame is three point that makes it different. That's also why it is able to keep the axle centered.

If you insist on heims, you should do a four link instead.

And no, I haven't stayed at Holiday Inn lately, but somewhere back in the mists of history is a MSc in Mechanical Engineering. I believe I majored in Machine Design. Never ever designed machinery professionally, but still...
ooooo hotshot you better go tell everyone running wishbone 3 links that their shit is going to break! :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: its been proven time and agian in the wheeling world that using components for tasks they were not designed for works just fine.

ooooo hotshot you better go tell everyone running wishbone 3 links that their shit is going to break! :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: its been proven time and agian in the wheeling world that using components for tasks they were not designed for works just fine.

Read the thread. Come back if you have questions.

its been proven time and agian in the wheeling world that using components for tasks they were not designed for works just fine.

Perhaps used for applications for which they were not originally designed, but still within their design parameters.

Read the thread. Come back if you have questions.

He is exactly right. RockCrawler Suspensions used a very similar design. The weak point in their design was not the Hiem to Arm mating but rather the weld in the same area. While I do prefer to see Triangulated 4 links, the A frame 3 link design is well proven.

Engineering debates aside, Greg-you're build is looking great & is ground-breaking for such a late-model Rover. Keep us posted w/ pic updates.
The roof chop & wiring pics gave me flashbacks....

Do you plan to relocate the ECU to a higher position?

Nadim,

is your project drivable yet? we want to know how the toy axles will hold up to the 42s!!!

Hey,

yeah, 99% done, we're working on several small items...

I'll be wheeling it extensively in the coming 2 months as the political situation quietens down...

I'll definitely keep you guys posted...

Nadim

Nadim, I haven't relocated any of the electrics, but will be looking at all of the possibilities when I start putting the interior back in. Since everything is stripped out from the firewall back, now is the time for me to look at all of those types of mods.

Hey,

yeah, 99% done, we're working on several small items...

I'll be wheeling it extensively in the coming 2 months as the political situation quietens down...

Nadim

You mean to tell me that Shopgrrl just bought a dress for your wedding and you're staying there to wheel???

(glad to see you have your priorities in order:grinpimp: That damned war threw lots of monkey wrenches where they didn't belong.)

LOL...

Wedding still being planned, depends when the "cease fire" turns into "peace"...but I NEED to wheel, its been ~9 months I haven't wheeled the Disco...the D90 on 33s and unlocked is not wetting my apetite enough...

I am a little confused with the heim argument.Rover ''A'' frame balljoints don't have shanks, threaded or otherwise. It is simply a large ball joint in a flanged housing that is pressed and bolted into a carrier which in turn is sandwiched and bolted between the 2 ''A''frame legs. Also the threaded portion of the tapered ball pin doesn't take any axial or shear loads unless the nut has not been kept tight. The tapered section of the ball pin is designed to cope with those loads and is generously dimensioned to do so, unlike many heims.Even if the threaded shank of the heim isn't a weak point I cannot see a non booted heim joint lasting very long on a daily driver in that application. If you don't lube them they wear out quickly. If you do lube them dust sticks to the lube turning the mixture into grinding paste and they wear out quickly. Is there any reason Greg why you didn't use a complete Defender/RRC/Disco1 ''A'' frame?
bill.

Well, with the leverage of the portal axles, we wanted to build a very robust A-frame. We used a very large heim and 2" OD tubing with .500" wall. I had given some thought to a stock A-frame, but just didn't feel like it was up to the task. Plus, we were able to make our upper arm a little longer than the stock A-frame.

Well, with the leverage of the portal axles, we wanted to build a very robust A-frame. We used a very large heim and 2" OD tubing with .500" wall. I had given some thought to a stock A-frame, but just didn't feel like it was up to the task. Plus, we were able to make our upper arm a little longer than the stock A-frame.

I cannot see the strong heavy forgings of the stock LandRover ''A '' frame being the weak link in any suspension chain, despite what Christer said about one snapping in an accident.there are also ways of lengthening the ball joint carrier. Photos can be deceptive, but it appears that your vertical separation between the balljoint and the lower links isn't as much as a Rover either.It looks like your lower links are higher up on the axle.
Bill.

I don't keep my rig where I live, but if I had to guess, I'd say there's around
7"-8" of seperation between the lowers and the A-frame. As far as longevity of the heim, I'll be lucky if I put 2000 miles a year on this thing.:( It will, however, be swapped out for a greasable unit as that is what I originally ordered.

Hopefully, within the next few months, I'll find out myself how well (or poorly:eek: ) everything works.:D

haven't put any heims on a daily driver yet, but have built or been involved in the build of many buggies. if you use the good qa1 teflon lined heims they will last several years. you should be fine. the greasable heims suck. the teflon lined heims wont catch any dust to speak of unless you are in the out back or some remote sahara area.

some of you rover guys need to get out more.
this is beginning to sound like disco web:flipoff2:

Nice work :smokin: , The wiring on rovers always looks sooo complicated{without dash pic}.

AGROVER !
Bill please check your Private messages ( PMs ) on Outerlimits !

Larry.

Nice work :smokin: , The wiring on rovers always looks sooo complicated{without dash pic}.

AGROVER !
Bill please check your Private messages ( PMs ) on Outerlimits !

Larry.

Larry,
I haven't posted on Outerlimits for over 1 year and last time I checked (about 6mths ago)have been deregistered.If you have any queries you are welcome to PM me here, or on lr4x4.com .
Regards Bill.

I came across this thread while looking for some idea of my new trail rig daily driver...Anyways...You guys seem to over think...Ive run heims on the street for many years...On cars and trucks...Plan on swapping them out often if you drive it...Not getting into construction im assuming that any of us would only be looking at the moly ball heims and saving the trouble..Dont grease em at all!Anything with a static load over 35k has worked for me in 6k lbs trucks that see air time..Please dont think that running heims is a set and forget it deal...They require inspection and replacement often..when building the triangulated 3 link from what i understand the lateral load is better dispersed...Myself i prefer running a watts link or if i dont have room a track bar.

At any rate the rig looks good man...Im gonna keep an eye on this build most definately...

Thanks for all of the input guys, it's always appreciated.:smokin:

You know, I remember back about (OMG, has it been that long) 25 years ago when I wanted to buy some heim joints for steering on a front-engine drag car I ahd, the guy at the parts counter refused to sell me rplacement joints as "It's against the law to use those for steering", even though it was not an on-road car by any stretch of the imagination, and I was replacing what the builder had used.

Now, we use them everywhere and only argue the finer points. Yet another instance of somebody talking out their ass 25 years ago.

Keep up with the build Greg and if I can help with the electronics any more, lemme know!

PT

You know, I remember back about (OMG, has it been that long) 25 years ago when I wanted to buy some heim joints for steering on a front-engine drag car I ahd, the guy at the parts counter refused to sell me rplacement joints as "It's against the law to use those for steering",

Now, we use them everywhere and only argue the finer points. Yet another instance of somebody talking out their ass 25 years ago.



PT
I keep forgetting when posting opinions, that this is a rock crawling forum, where trucks just don't cover any real distance. The Heim will probably be fine on that ''A'' frame for the intended annual mileage.But anyone reading these forums should be warned that for real world use on daily drivers, covering the average 10 to 12000 miles per year in mixed conditions, both wet and dry, muddy or dusty,that Heim joints are not suitable, not recommended,will flog out quickly, and depending on brand, can rip open suddenly, turning your beloved rig into a deadly unguided missile if it happens at any sort of speed with other people, cars etc in strike range.
If Heims were the answer, then Rover and every other car and truck manufacturer throughout the world would use them exclusively for steering and suspension joints. They don't use them for at least two reasons. one is that Heims would not last through the warranty period. And two, The manufacturers don't want to have their arses sued every five minutes for vehicles causing accidents by their steering and suspension systems falling out .
Heims are illegal for road use in most countries for very good reason.
Bill.

I keep forgetting when posting opinions, that this is a rock crawling forum, where trucks just don't cover any real distance. The Heim will probably be fine on that ''A'' frame for the intended annual mileage.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d113/m016324/index_04.gif
:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

The one thing we all forget about is the fact that OEM's are cheap. its all about the bottom line and money in old mens pockets. Aerospace has used heims in landing gear, control surfaces pulling 4G loads and all of its "your ass" pieces for years. The reason is because cost is not the driving factor. Granted in the aerospace industry we have a much more stringent mantianence schedule but i look at the nuts and bolts in my truck almost as much as i inspect my helicopter.
As do most of the truly hard core kids on this forum.
Wen we first started playing with portals some guy said to me "if its such a good idea why didnt chevy do it in the first place" It took me 5 years to come up with the answer. Chevy is too cheap to make anything to perfection.
Great build greg. that is a wicked disco.

Rob Hardy
Director of Engineering
Portal-Tek axles

Well, I finally got the bsic cage done. Andy Zuber at Carolina Rock Shop in Charlotte built it to my specs, with one exception. My plans were to do three main hoops (A, B, and C). However, once we started bending and installing them, Andy suggested that we go with A & B hoops, and then with a halo going from the B to behind the heads of the rear passengers. My design would have had the C hoop being in front of the heads of the rear passengers.

Andy's advice paid off because I ended up with the look that was exactly was I was after. From the side all of the lines follow the angles of the door frames, and from the rear everything angles in at the top to again follow the door frames. A small flange will be welded to the tubing around the upper door openings so the stock door seals will be used. There are still alot of supports, cross tubes, etc to be added, and I'll be working on those as soon as I get my dash re-insatalled.

Lemme know what you think.

I spent half of today making some additional braces for the A and B pillar tie-ins. For the A hoop, we put a .25" on the top corner of the dash box section, then welded the tubing to it. Then today I made an additional plate to go around the tube, and was welded to not only the tube but also to the dash box section, spreading the load over a much larger area.

For the B pillars, we slid the tubing down into the pillar until it rested on an internal ledge. The top of the pillar had a releif cut for the tube to fit at the upper end. This section of the pillar was then welded to the tubing. Then today I made a .25" plate the surrounds the tube and extends down the pillar, again getting fully welded to the tube as well as down the length of the pillar.

I used this method so that I would not lose and foot room up front and so that the factory belts and seats would remain in their stock location (more on that later). Pictures follow for your scrutiny. :D

Are you keeping the woodgrain dash and center console inserts, so you can match the doors?

:flipoff2:

It's cool, Greg -- I like the look.

Looks sweet FOR SURE...

Q: are you certain of the body's strength to carry a cage and the use (God forbid) of the cage? All those supports you did seem to add a LOT of strength, but the base (i.e. the body) is not known to be strong...

Reason I'm asking is that I thought it was a dire NO NO to go via the body and that's why I completely isolated the exo and body on my Disco, whereas my first inner cage went through the body to thick, wide plates...

I know it's not ideal. However, I've owned a couple of rolled DII's (parted them out with a friend - both high-speed rolls) and was amazed at the integrity of the body after these rolls. One in particular rolled three times at highway speed and all four doors could be opened and closed. That's why I felt that the body would be strong enough to support the cage. Keep in mind that the Disco's structure is designed to be pretty robust since the shell is AL. And since the body and frame flex ind. of each other on a DII, I intentionally kept the structures seperate from one another. Let's hope I never have to find out.

looks nice, that first pict of the cage is looking very range rover, nice the way it keeps with the lines of the truck.

Project is looking very good, I agree it looks a little Range Roveresque which is COOL!
I would agree regarding the DII body integrity; we have a fellow ROAV member whose family of four survived a highway speed rollover and he got out and could open the doors for the family to get out even with the front roof down on the steering wheel!

greg-

that's nice looking buildup. no offense to all others who have chopped their tops but thus far, your cage looks great! the C hoop looks really cool.

regarding the use of the D2 body, i had the same questions as discodino but it sounds like you've got the engineering part worked out. makes sense really as the roof is attached to the very same body. it ought to be at least as strong. i think that we're all just used to roll cages being reinforcements to shells rather than replacements.

i don't know if it's the pics, but there appears to be a fair amount of undercut on the plates. did you do multiple passes?

andy

Thanks for the compliments so far.

As far as the welds, it must be the pictures. Maybe the planets were aligned, or I was holding my tongue differently, but those were some of the best beads I've ever laid, and they'll all be covered by trim pieces.:shaking:

well, it must be the pics. a friend has a bumper of yours so i know you've got teh skillz...i also don't purport to be an expert but is it the fawking cage, ya know?

one unrelated question. are you still using volvo portals? someone from portal-tek chimed in on this thread so i was wondering if you switched to them.

andy

Still running the portals, but I'll be using the Portal -Tek disc conversion.

You going to have the truck done in time to come to Montrose in August?

Well, that's my plan. However, that's also my anniversary month and we have a time-share in Hilton Head that month, so I'll have some creative scheduling to do. But that is my goal.

Send her to the Outer Banks and you go to the Rally :D

Sell the time share to me... you can go in my place!!

Of course there's the hauling of retail stuff and sponsership, and the Vendor event to support, ah and you'll need to help my wife with the activities surrounding that event... Oh did I say I was leaving her here? Ooops! Hope she doesn't here about this!! Right Mr. Hope!?!?!?

Greg you need to come out and have some fun in the west!! This should be a better Rallye than last year and we have a bunch of newb's running it!! Talented newb's!

Well, if you're serious, PM me. We actually have it up for sale.:D With the 2 girls, work, etc., we're finding it harder and harder to take the time to use it along with our other vacations.

A tree fell on this one and cage would not have mattered.

A tree fell on this one and cage would not have mattered.

I think the cage would have aleviated A LOT of stress and you could AT LEAST be alive inside of it...

Good thing he had the extra lights and the roof rack. :rolleyes:

I do like the "No Bud Light" sign on the rear pass. door, though...

I think the cage would have aleviated A LOT of stress and you could AT LEAST be alive inside of it...

My point was more of the strength of the DII body and how he was attaching the tube to the pillars. (no one was killed in this incident:cool2:)

My point was more of the strength of the DII body and how he was attaching the tube to the pillars. (no one was killed in this incident:cool2:)

True, but it seems that the lower part of the pillars is not as tweaked as the upper part...

We are saying the same thing.

This should be a better Rallye than last year and we have a bunch of newb's running it!! Talented newb's!

I am not sure how to take that :flipoff: or :flipoff2:

:laughing:

You probably don't want to hear my plans for you for 2008:eek:

OK guys.

If I have your control unit #, I can give you an exact pin layout of the Bosch Motronic controller. This, combined with the Land Rover wiring diagram (which i could provide as well) will give you the two pieces of the puzzle that you will need to make the engine run separate from the other vehicle harnesses.

Let me know if you want me to go further.

Sorry Greg, my axleswap project beat you to the trail, I took it out this weekend and tested it for the first time. :grinpimp:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a290/TheDonJohnson/DSCN0865.jpg

Well, I've been making a little progress lately. The dash is in (no pics-boring:rolleyes: ). While I was at it I installed a remote Cobra CB with the box hidden by the dash. I also installed a remote speaker since I won't be able to hear the stock CB with the top off. I relocated the CD changer so that when you open the glove box it's tucked in the upper right corner so I still have some storage. Relocated the transmission computer to where the SRS computer was under the console.

I started making the mounts fo rhte seats but had to stop until I had my steering wheel mounted. Which brings me to the following pics of my custom hub adapter.

300637

300638

300639

I took the stock wheel and had the center machined to a 4" OD. I then got a piece of 4" ID AL tube and a piece of 3.5" OD AL tube. The larger piece was then welded to the outside lower edge and serves as a trim piece to cover the gap normally covered by the stock plastic trim pieces.

Then a recess was machined in the center section to allow the 3.5" tube to be perfectly centered, and was then welded. A pice of .25" plate was machined for the top cover, and it was then drilled and tapped to allow the wheel to be mounted to it. It was then all machined and polished.

Here's the wheel attached.

300640
300641

Now I can mount the wheel in my rig and get my seats in the proper place. Maybe I'll get some time this week or weekend.:shaking:

Cool!!
You selling those?

Not really, but if you send me your stock wheel and how tall you want the adapter I can have another made. Remember, this is for a DII, for which there are no known adapters. For everything else, I think there are off-the-shelf adapters available. They're just not as pretty.:p

Well, I've actually been making some progress. All four seats are mounted. I went with the Beard Enduro w/ neoprene covering and heaters w/ hi - lo settings.

These are the front mounts for the rear seats (I accidentally deleted my shots of the front seat mounts so I'll post those later). Basically I just plated the floor with .25" plate and then welded the mounting tabs to that.

309038

This is a view showing the driver's seat location in regards to the steering wheel being mounted.

309039

This shows the harness spreader in relation to the belt slots (more on that later).

309040

And here's a couple of shots showing all four seats mounted.

309041

309042

Only thing left for the seats is to try and recess the rear of the back seats to get a little more recline angle as well as gain a little headroom.

So here's the question. Is my spreader bar OK in this shot? My shoulders are about 3" higher than the slots in the seats, so I may use the loops on the outsides. Initial plans were for "V" belts but I can switch to "H" belts if it would be better. Will there be enough room between the spreader bar and my shoulders? If not, can you mount belts to the BOTTOM of the spreader to gain some distance? In other words, weld the tab underneath instead of on top?

309043

Greg,
I would lower that shoulder harness bar a couple inches if it were me. If you decide not to, you can mount the seatbelts to the bottom if you want.

Andy

Thanks Andy. I'm just not sure how much more I can lower it before it starts interfering with the door seal flange.

Can you mount it angled down rather than horizontal (ie. in profile). That would keep your mounts at the same height but lower the crossbar.

As a qualifier to the above, I'm not sure I have any idea what you're talking about.

Any updates? I've been following this thread from the beginning.

I've been working on the cage lately, and I'm taking Wed off to get some more work done. With the kids at the ages they are (3 & 7) I just don't have any energy to drive to the garage once they're in bed.:(

Hopefully I'll have some updated picts on Thurs of the mostly-completed cage.

Greg-

Better take your BB gun to run off the rodents that have probably nested in your wiring over the winter...or winters (07 and 08)!

Just kidding, hope it starts to come together for you.

:laughing: Keep in mind that this will still carry my family (wife and 5 year old and 1 year old girls) on the trails as well as camping, events, etc.

I've been working on the cage lately, and I'm taking Wed off to get some more work done. With the kids at the ages they are (3 & 7) I just don't have any energy to drive to the garage once they're in bed.:(

:laughing:

Mine are 2&3 and I keep hoping as they get older I will be able to escape to the garage more, but so far nope.

Geeze, that last post really made me realize just how long I've had this thing apart. My kids are two years older than when I started this thread. How pathetic is that?:eek:

Anyway, I made some progress today, so here are some picts.

Finally spent some time on the front bumper and finished the grill guard I started two seasons ago. Decided to add the light bar last minute and I'm really pleased with the way it turned out. Second pict is with the Hellas mounted.
364344

364345

Remounted the rear door, removed the glass, and cut it down to match the sides. I still have to lower the upper hinge, but I'll tackle that another day. Also got the can carrier trimmed and mounted. I plan on rounding off the corners to make it a little more visually pleasing (it was given to me so I can't complain).
364346

This is the final resting place for the spare. I sacrifice some storage, but it keeps it nice and low and out of my line of sight for the rear. I'll make a basket that mounts above it so I can still carry my fridge and assorted gear. There's room on each side of it, one side will hold my battery and the other my on-board compressor and tank.

In the second pict you can see where I gutted the rear door to allow it to close with the spare lying flat. I will finish all of that off so the door is completely sealed. The subs will be repositioned on top of the wheel wells just to the side of each rear seat.
364347

364348

Now for the cage work. Here's a shot of the spreader bar behind the rear seats. It's not tacked in yet (ran out of time today) but this is the location it will mount. It will also have a vertical bar above and below it tying it into the halo (just like the front spreader you'll see below).
364349

Here are a couple of shots showing the front spreader and how it ties into the cage top and bottom. You can also see the center horizontal bars I've added between the A & B hoops as well as between the B & C hoops.
364350

364352

And finally, the part that might receive the most criticism. The Discos have stadium style seating in the rear, which means the rear seats are around 4"-5" higher than the fronts. At first I was hoping I could recess the rear floor, but there is a huge cross member under there which my upper A-frame attaches to, so that option was out.

I thought about just keeping the C hoop the same height as the B and just count on only my girls riding there, but after thinking it over, that would have been kind of half-assing it, so I decided on the raised hoop. I then struggled with how to make it as pleasing to the eye as possible, and incorporated a slight bend in the center horizontal (B hoop to C hoop) bar to lead the eye to the hoop more gradually. And finally, I added the rear center horizontal (C hoop to end of halo) bar with a radius to sort of mimic the Disco's original stepped roof. Go ahead, let me have it.
364353

damn, when you get back to work you get on it-
At least you can say it was well planned, right? I think it makes sense to raise the cage, you would have regretted it later.

looks good Greg...

Will you put in a back seat where I can ride?

Looking good!

You could hold on to the spare.:D

Looking good!

Nice Stuff

x2

nice work , heres mine, will be on 49 iroks as soon as they arive orderd them last week

I battled with myself whether to take this approach or not.. finally I decided to do a Kids' only back seat and keep the roofline level. I gained a bit more room by yanking the stock seats and putting in a PRP bench which sits a few inches lower. i have had adults (albeit women) back there and no one has bumped their head yet.

I'd be interested in seeing pics of yours from a few different angles.


And finally, the part that might receive the most criticism. The Discos have stadium style seating in the rear, which means the rear seats are around 4"-5" higher than the fronts. At first I was hoping I could recess the rear floor, but there is a huge cross member under there which my upper A-frame attaches to, so that option was out.

I thought about just keeping the C hoop the same height as the B and just count on only my girls riding there, but after thinking it over, that would have been kind of half-assing it, so I decided on the raised hoop. I then struggled with how to make it as pleasing to the eye as possible, and incorporated a slight bend in the center horizontal (B hoop to C hoop) bar to lead the eye to the hoop more gradually. And finally, I added the rear center horizontal (C hoop to end of halo) bar with a radius to sort of mimic the Disco's original stepped roof. Go ahead, let me have it.
364353

RiksLandys, I never did get those pics of your tone rings.:D You plan on going up with it, or chopping the wings for some uptravel?

Alex, I din't mean to imply anythng with my half-...... comment. It was only meant for me since my youngest is projected to be around 5'9" (I'm 6'4" so that's not surprising). I'll try and get some more picts this week. That one shot is not very flattering.

I battled with myself whether to take this approach or not.. finally I decided to do a Kids' only back seat and keep the roofline level. I gained a bit more room by yanking the stock seats and putting in a PRP bench which sits a few inches lower. i have had adults (albeit women) back there and no one has bumped their head yet.

I'd be interested in seeing pics of yours from a few different angles.

thats what i did. the suspension style seat does add a little bit more room.

I battled with myself whether to take this approach or not.. finally I decided to do a Kids' only back seat and keep the roofline level. I gained a bit more room by yanking the stock seats and putting in a PRP bench which sits a few inches lower. i have had adults (albeit women) back there and no one has bumped their head yet.

I'd be interested in seeing pics of yours from a few different angles.

Be very careful. All of you with this issue. You should have a minimum of a fist (3.5in) from the top of any passengers head to the bottom of the roll bar. When you roll the force extends your body against your harness (no matter how sweet your harness is). Your passengers will hit the piss out of their heads if there is not enough room. It's just plain stupid to sacrifice this for looks.

Be very careful. All of you with this issue. You should have a minimum of a fist (3.5in) from the top of any passengers head to the bottom of the roll bar. When you roll the force extends your body against your harness (no matter how sweet your harness is). Your passengers will hit the piss out of their heads if there is not enough room. It's just plain stupid to sacrifice this for looks.

yea... maybe i'll change it. i never really thought about it in the event of a roll. thanks for the heads up.

Be very careful. All of you with this issue. You should have a minimum of a fist (3.5in) from the top of any passengers head to the bottom of the roll bar. When you roll the force extends your body against your harness (no matter how sweet your harness is). Your passengers will hit the piss out of their heads if there is not enough room. It's just plain stupid to sacrifice this for looks.

Right you are. I don't let anyone too tall sit in back. In fact, don't let anyone at all sit back there going over a real challenge. Truthfully, the primary reason I put the back seat at all is so I could drag the dog along with me. If there's no room for dog, wife would never come.

i have had adults (...) back there and no one has bumped their head yet.


My head disagrees :p

Great to see the project moving again Greg!

My head disagrees :p

you're awfully tall (not to mention hairy) for a woman :flipoff2:

Wait until September,I'll bring my wax kit along just for you (SMACK!)
:laughing: :D

any updates? you've had to have time to do at least something this summer...great work!

Au contraire, mon frere.:D Excuses for no progress:

1. Too &@^$%#^ hot!
2. Too busy w/ young daughters - leaves no time in evenings.
3. In the middle of a job change - been focusing on that.
4. New toy - see below!:smokin:

http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2008-06-26/1214519521_side_view.jpg

Once things settle down with the new job, I plan on getting back on it pretty hard.

Au contraire, mon frere.:D Excuses for no progress:

1. Too &@^$%#^ hot!
2. Too busy w/ young daughters - leaves no time in evenings.
3. In the middle of a job change - been focusing on that.
4. New toy - see below!:smokin:

http://pics.montypics.com/greg_davis/2008-06-26/1214519521_side_view.jpg

Once things settle down with the new job, I plan on getting back on it pretty hard.

mmm. mini clubman! i saw one the other day. i would love to zip around in one of those all day long.

get settled quick! i want to see this thing finished!.

Hold on now.....Who said anything about getting it done quick?:(

As far as the Mini goes - FUNNEST thing I've ever driven.:D And, I'm getting 30 mpg around town (haven't had a chance to take it on any trips yet).:smokin:

Hold on now.....Who said anything about getting it done quick?:(

As far as the Mini goes - FUNNEST thing I've ever driven.:D And, I'm getting 30 mpg around town (haven't had a chance to take it on any trips yet).:smokin:


no, no. i mean, get settled into your job quick, so you can start back on the rig. must be terrible not wheelin' for two years.

UMMMMMM where is the finished product?

I wanna see this finished already! Its been over 2 years so surely some progress has been made?

He's busy working on cutting brakes for it now instead of everything else that needs to be done :flipoff2:

Sadly, I'm taking just as long with my build :shaking:

He's busy working on cutting brakes for it now instead of everything else that needs to be done :flipoff2:

Sadly, I'm taking just as long with my build :shaking:

All most four years, not bad. I think I started mine in the spring of 06, so got you by 4-5 months :D

Greg:
The wrecked DII should be here later today. I'll see if I can get your computers working tomorrow.

PT

Thanks PT - that would be GREAT!

Finished the interior yesterday. Funny how things aren't fitting the same way as they did before all my work! Trimming the carpet was a MAJOR PITA. The cargo area is still unfinished as I need to make upper shock mounts that will protrude into this area, so when I make the new wheel-wells I can incorporate those. Got all of my flanges welded inside the perimeter of the cage so I could re-install the factory door seals, plus I add 1/8" thick rain gutters/rub strips along the top so when you open the doors water won't pour onto you.

Suspension is done except for upper shock mounts as mentioned above. Lowers are done, need to install my brakes (make caliper mounts) and plumb them, finish welding the front bumper, tidy up the sliders where they were trimmed and notched for the side exhaust, and a few other nit-picky things.

Overall, I'd say I'm 90% done. Oh, I need to go full hydro on the steering because the sector shaft of the steering box comes down right on top of the panhard (with about 1/8" clearance), so the pass. front tire will cause contact when it stuffs. Being able to get rid of the current tie rod and drag link will free up all kinds of room for flex.

I'm REALLY pumped because to be honest, there were times when I doubted it would ever be a running rig again. I should be bringing it home within the next week or ss, so I'll update this thread with picts.

Thats awesome I'm glad to see the enthusiasm is still there even after this long. I remember first looking at this build about 2 years ago when I first got my d2 and its shown me their potential is endless, can't wait to see the updated pics!

I've got some paying work to do, then I'll start ripping the interior out of the DII so I can pop your computers in.

Wish me luck, it's turned cold and my hands aren't working very well. I'm afraid my time in a colder climate is becoming more and more limited. I really wish I hand't quit smoking.