I was just at my local d-line guys shop and he was showing me his spicer cvs. He said they are fairly strong and with his touch up run at up to 30degrees. I know they are smaller than a 1350cv but has anyone broke one? He will build me one with new joints, the hub to adapt to a d20 and the hub for the d20, plus a 1410 long travel slip and joint for $150.00. I about choked. He just retubed one d-line for Tankota and built another one with a long travel 1350 yoke, and 1350 solid end plus all 4 joints for 115.00 cash out the door. I like this guys prices but I dont know if the spicer stuff will hold up and I know Jesses 1350 cv will.

:eek: :eek: :eek: I just Payed $500.00 for my 1350 shaft with 1350 cv!:eek:

Originally posted by CHOKEu
:eek: :eek: :eek: I just Payed $500.00 for my 1350 shaft with 1350 cv!:eek:

i build my own shafts and couldn't imagine paying $500 for a shaft! i guess i'm cheap. i don't run down the hwy at 80mph either so a non balanced shaft isn't a problem. especially with unbalanced 35.5 sx's and bead locks. i don't even notice :D

I know what you mean. The friend that referred me to this guy that does d-lines, I referred to Jesse and he paid 500 for a 1350cv d-line because he didnt even ask the d-line guy if he had anything like the 1350cv. He built one of these spicer cvs for a guy 4yrs ago with a 460,t18,205 in his cruiser and runs 38.5in boggers, runs it very hard and has never had a problem. The guy says itll run at 30degrees as well.So being a cheapskate myself you must see why I am asking.

Originally posted by wheelinjp
I know what you mean. The friend that referred me to this guy that does d-lines, I referred to Jesse and he paid 500 for a 1350cv d-line because he didnt even ask the d-line guy if he had anything like the 1350cv. He built one of these spicer cvs for a guy 4yrs ago with a 460,t18,205 in his cruiser and runs 38.5in boggers, runs it very hard and has never had a problem. The guy says itll run at 30degrees as well.So being a cheapskate myself you must see why I am asking.

are you planning on running it on the road? if not then why worry about the cv? for a trail rig i prefer not to have a cv. just my op.

Hey High 5 how are ya? I do plan on running it to the mall occasionally to go wheelin. Seriously though I do want to be able to take it down the freeway comfortably and I cant do that with the cj5. So it is important to me to do it right.

where is jesse maybe he can tell you the diff between what he sells and what this guy is going to sell you 500 does seem high but if it never breaks it is worth it over something that is going to leave you stranded

what year dana 20 transfercase are we talking about- ? becuase if its the early 10 spline output its not worth running the 1350 c/v anyways- and what differentail are we talking here too-? and what tire size on yours? thanks then we will talk about what holds up and not- Jess:D

Originally posted by onetoncv
what year dana 20 transfercase are we talking about- ? becuase if its the early 10 spline output its not worth running the 1350 c/v anyways- and what differentail are we talking here too-? and what tire size on yours? thanks then we will talk about what holds up and not- Jess:D

Well I am running a '75 jeep d20 w/ th400 mild 355 and a c&c 14bolt with 4.56s on 38.5 14.5 sxs. I understand the d20 is the weak point in the drivetrain, but I am not willing to spend almost 3000. bucks on a transfercase and then 500 on the d-line for it. I run in Washington and have no asperations to be a competitive rock crawler just want to build it strong enough not to break on occasional rock outcroppings. The only reason I went 14bolt is for the cost savings over building a d60 w/ custom shafts. I was wondering if anyone had any experience running this spicer cv. I already understand the strength and quality of a 1350cv. I wish there was a compromise on the price difference of the d20 and the Atlas II. I thought about the dana 300 but they are only a step up when the new output shaft is installed, then I might as well run an Atlas.

here's a pic of what 38.5's will do to a 1310 shaft - and what the comparision ius between the 1350 front and 1310 back- this is an article that will be up on jeeps unlimited this week- also on your 20 i'd pull the end yoke off and see if its a 26 spline output -if so then you have basically a dana 300 or close to it- and the one ton c/v is an option - if its a 10 spline then 1/2 ton is the only option , but now there is actaully an upgraded output shaft that's 32 spline that will fit your dana 20 and its aprox. 395.oo for that then your set for pretty much what ever you want- those prices were quite low even for a 1/2 shaft we usually get 289.00 for ours - i'd like to see what you get - thanks Jess:D

Thanks Jesse, I wasnt trying to come off like I was getting a better deal than what you offer. I appreciate the help and I will be investigating the rear output on my 20, and I might get the 32 spline shaft for it eventually. Is that the same as the d300, but machined differently? Anyway thanks again for the info, that is exactly what I was looking for.

i was not concerned about that really- it just sounded like a really good deal - but as far as the 20 output its actually for the bronco's and it happends to fit jeep 20's too- so there's a reason to keep your 20 - and again i was not meaning to come off like i was mad about someone having a cheeper price- just kinda curious- :D jess

With that thicker output shaft, can you still do the dana 20 gear swap using gears out of a bronco and a dana 18 to get the somewhat lower low range (2.5?)?

Hope that made sense:rasta:

I think a 1310 CV can survive in a rockcrawler if you have a little finesse. My dad runs one on his cj-5 with 38.5s and a 304.For gearing he's got 4.11 in the diffs and a t-18 in front of a 4:1 300. He has never broken the cv, only the rear 1310 u joint. For some reason the needle bearings dont' last too long.

I'm gonna be using a 1310 CV shaft as well, mostly because I have two of them laying around. Mine will have a 1330 joint on the axle end though and I"m not running as much angle as my dad is, so I'm pretty sure it will be cool.

Oh ya the only time my dad ever broke his rear shaft was because of axle wrap..... the drive shaft yoke bound on the axle end and one of the cast ends :nuke: after the traction bar it has just been the needle bearings on the axle joint.

;)