I know the winner the 9" .... but dose anybody have stats to back that up? and is the 31 spline 8.8 stronger than teh 28 spline 9? What about the D44 and its different splines? Whats the best out their? And I know only a couple of ford came with D44 rears but i know yall got knowedge of Jeeps n stuff....

a 28 spine is a 28 spline is a 28 spline. They are the same size. Same with 31, and 35 spline. There are some exceptions, but for the most part, this is true.

Next consider ring gear size....pretty easy to figure out, bigger = stronger. The 9" also has 3rd bearing to support the pinion.

Then consider C-clips.......no big deal until you break an axle. Also make pulling an axle a pain in the ass, and can limit locker availability.

There is no mystery here... PBB is full of real world experience. What more do you need to "back that up"

Originally posted by Nobody

There is no mystery here... PBB is full of real world experience. What more do you need to "back that up"


pictures and a essay on the pictures :smokin:

Yep. All pretty much true.

D44=8.5" ring
8.8" , Well, thats obvious.
9" , That one, too :D

The D44's ring is also much thinner from inner circumference to the outer edge, than the 8.8 or the 9.

D44 shafts are usually 1.31" 30 spline. Theres an early 19 spline D44, also. POS, but can be upgraded to 30.
8.8s and 9s both came with 1.25" 28 spline, and 1.32" 31 spline shafts.

Almost any locker is available for all 3 of these axles.
The 9 has 35 and 40 spline shafts available for it, but THIS will limit the locker choices a bit.
Not sure anyones making these shafts for the 8.8.

The 8.8 also has a bigger pinion shaft and inner bearing than the D44 or 9, but lacks the 3rd support bearing the 9 has.
I've seen a few reports of stock 8.8 L/S carriers and ARB side gears busting. A Detroit (or spool) would solve that, though.

One thing to remember in the 9" vs 8.8" debate is that the 8.8" is the replacement differential for the 9" so it should come as no surprise that they are similar in strength.

Originally posted by Paul Gagnon
One thing to remember in the 9" vs 8.8" debate is that the 8.8" is the replacement differential for the 9" so it should come as no surprise that they are similar in strength.

Yup, and both of thier main down falls is housing strength, a 9 inch can be trusses very easy, the 8.8 needs it tubes welded then added a brack brace,
when it all comes down to it, its really not worth swapping a 9 inch in to replace a 8.8

Originally posted by welndmn


Yup, and both of thier main down falls is housing strength, a 9 inch can be trusses very easy, the 8.8 needs it tubes welded then added a brack brace,
when it all comes down to it, its really not worth swapping a 9 inch in to replace a 8.8

I don't know that I agree with that....One word C-clips:flipoff2:

Originally posted by welndmn

when it all comes down to it, its really not worth swapping a 9 inch in to replace a 8.8

Thank you! I agree 100%. IF I was starting from scratch I'd chooose the 9" (well, actually I'd choose D60 full floater no matter how lightweight the vehicle).

If I already had the 8.8 I wouldn't bother "upgrading" to the 9". As for c-clips, :zzz:

I've seen three 9"s break at the flange outboard of the bearing. Guess what? Wheel still falls off :) I am NOT saying this is where they normally break, just that *in my personal experience* I am not impressed.

Spent the day helping Big78Bronco get his '78 off Longwater Rock when this happened to him, it changed my perspective. YMMV!

Yep, with a 9" even if an axle breaks inboard the bearing, your wheel will still fall off. It just takes a little longer. Seen it happen a few times.

I don't know that I agree with that....One word C-clips

Personally, i don't see the big deal about C-clips. They don't make the axle weaker, just more of a pain if you bust. However, for people like me running 35's or so, it's really not an issue. I carry spares just in case, but I HIGHLY doubt I'll ever need 'em with my 35's and 4.0 engine. Plus, your calipers (on newer 8.8's) should keep the wheel attached long enough to at least pull over to a good spot to change the axle.

Granted it will fall off if the shaft breaks. BUT I would rather take my chances on a 1.31 piece of steel snapping over a pos clip that can simply pop off and then whoosh the axle goes buh-bye.:flipoff2: I guess it depeneds what your wheel pattern is for your 8.8. For me I was 5 on 4.5 and to get to a 5 on 5.5 it was going to cost a shit pile more to upgrade the 8.8 to 5.5 shafts than it was to swap in a 9". Not to mention the fact that a 9" is cheaper and easier to spool and or lock, used gears are easier to find and for the price of getting a disc 8.8 you can build a disc 9"..........But yea no gain :rolleyes:

a pos clip that can simply pop off and then whoosh the axle goes buh-bye. I guess it depeneds what your wheel pattern is for your 8.8. For me I was 5 on 4.5 and to get to a 5 on 5.5 it was going to cost a shit pile more to upgrade the 8.8 to 5.5 shafts than it was to swap in a 9".

A C-clip will not simply pop off:rolleyes:

Also, changing my 8.8 to 5x5.5 wasn't a shit pile of $$, it was just a matter of redrilling them. Doesn't come cheaper/easier than that.

I do like the locker options, and upgrade potential of the 9, not to mention the ease of working on a 9 over an 8.8

Originally posted by racinhound
Granted it will fall off if the shaft breaks. BUT I would rather take my chances on a 1.31 piece of steel snapping over a pos clip that can simply pop off and then whoosh the axle goes buh-bye.:flipoff2: I guess it depeneds what your wheel pattern is for your 8.8. For me I was 5 on 4.5 and to get to a 5 on 5.5 it was going to cost a shit pile more to upgrade the 8.8 to 5.5 shafts than it was to swap in a 9". Not to mention the fact that a 9" is cheaper and easier to spool and or lock, used gears are easier to find and for the price of getting a disc 8.8 you can build a disc 9"..........But yea no gain :rolleyes:
I agree with that, if i had 5 on 4.5, first i would shoot myself, then to upgrade i would slap 9 inch in there, it would just be faster and easier, then a full widh d44 up front, and i would be set

Originally posted by racinhound
Granted it will fall off if the shaft breaks. BUT I would rather take my chances on a 1.31 piece of steel snapping over a pos clip that can simply pop off and then whoosh the axle goes buh-bye.:flipoff2:

The clip can't come off. In order for this to happen the the center pin would have to break or slide out if the set screw takes off. Then the axles could slide in, the "cups" which sorround the c-clips could fall off, and then the clips could fall out. So long as you lock-tite the set screw on the center pin you're ok.

I definitely agree the 9" is easier to service, tho. Sorry racinhound, hadn't even thought of the 5 on 4.5" issue. Since I'm mostly a fullsize guy I only think in terms of 5 on 5.5". But I still prefer 8 on 6.5" :)

Ok OK so the clip "popping off" was an exaggeration.....Of note though I have seen or heard of 2 different c-clip axles that have done exactly what D60 is refering to and 1 had loctite so go figure:confused:

O BTW D60 PFFFFFFFFFFFFFFT who don't prefer 8 on 6.5 just wish my checkbook would allow it:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Honkylips


Also, changing my 8.8 to 5x5.5 wasn't a shit pile of $$, it was just a matter of redrilling them. Doesn't come cheaper/easier than that.



What did you do? Fill the holes and redrill?

I don't know about anyone else, but I couldn't dedrill my flanges to 5 on 5.5", just not enough material. I had to buy axles.

I think it's a toss up. Keep your 8.8 and buy new axles = $300US or swap a 9" in. Can you find a similar width, big bearing, 31 slpine 9" for $300US, I'm not sure...

What did you do? Fill the holes and redrill?

Nope, just redrilled. There is JUST barely enough room. I'd like to have had more room, but I haven't had any problems, and I've pushed em as hard as I know how:D

I suppose you could fill and then redrill, that would probably be a better option.

Originally posted by Honkylips


Nope, just redrilled. There is JUST barely enough room. I'd like to have had more room, but I haven't had any problems, and I've pushed em as hard as I know how:D

I suppose you could fill and then redrill, that would probably be a better option.
Agreed.
I run 5X5.5 on my 8.8. I used threaded studs (basically just bolts) instead of press-in studs. This left a bit more material at the edge. They come to about 1/4" from the edge of the flange. Plenty strong. No problems. Then just redrill the brake drum.
While you can drill the drum yourself, the axle should be done professionally if wheel balance is a concern.

Originally posted by 4x4junkie

Agreed.
I run 5X5.5 on my 8.8. I used threaded studs (basically just bolts) instead of press-in studs. This left a bit more material at the edge. They come to about 1/4" from the edge of the flange. Plenty strong. No problems. Then just redrill the brake drum.
While you can drill the drum yourself, the axle should be done professionally if wheel balance is a concern.

Very cool! Had always heard of this, but never spoke to anyone who had actually done it - was thinking it was an "urban legend." Now, I wonder if one could do this to a SF 10.25 to convert to 5 on 5.5?

4x4 or Honky got any pics?

Originally posted by D60

Now, I wonder if one could do this to a SF 10.25 to convert to 5 on 5.5?

Remind me again what the point would be? :flipoff2:

I measured the ground clearance differance between a D44 and 9" the differance 1.5" pretty decent bit....

which one has the better clearence? you didn't say.

Eric

the 44 has better clerence but from what i was told its not as strong as the 9 :rolleyes:

Originally posted by sclemons


Remind me again what the point would be? :flipoff2:

That'd be for all the whiners who just blew their wad on new 15" tires on super-pretty 5 on 5.5" wheels and then decide they want something stronger in the rear, but they don't wanna go to Dynarape, they don't wanna convert the TTB to 8 lugs and they don't wanna do an SAS (SA 44 converted to 8 lugs or D60).

For all you guys w/XJs, Rangers, Exploders etc, 5 lugs is fine I guess if it's fine w/you. But for full sizes, just go 8 lug and get it over with! Otherwise you spend your whole budget trying to get one-ton running gear but retain 5 lugs. For god's sake, buy some 8 lug wheels and get over it.

Now, what was this thread about?

Well put D60........

I have personally thought about going HD 8 lug axles on my 44 and trimming a Dana 60 to fit the rear of my ranger. But, I don't do rocks(its a florida thing) so it may not be worth it.

But you hit the nail on the head dude.........for a full size, with some serious HP, no doubt 8 lug rules.

Originally posted by racinhound
4x4 or Honky got any pics?
OK, I just took one. Unfortunately all I have is a 35mm camera. It may be a bit before I get the roll developed.

8 lugs suck im not carry a trailer house out on the trails :flipoff2:
5 lugs are plenty hell even 6 is fine but why the hell would i go 8 lug on a 3500 pound truck for ? :rolleyes:

the only reson i see to go 8 is if you run a 60 up front the HD 44
is a bearing upgrade nothing more it just holds more weight :beer:
this hole tread in general is goin down the tubes :zzz:


this is what we were talkin about
I know the winner the 9" .... but dose anybody have stats to back that up? and is the 31 spline 8.8 stronger than teh 28 spline 9? What about the D44 and its different splines? Whats the best out their? And I know only a couple of ford came with D44 rears but i know yall got knowedge of Jeeps n stuff....

to answer this :question: the 8.8 with 31 splines would be stronger than the 9" with 28 splines and d44 with 30 splines ,but the D44 would be stronger than the 9" and 8.8 that has 28 spline how ever if you uograded the 9" to 31 splines it beats both the D44 and 8.8 in strength .
im talkin shaft strength here :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Alpo23
which one has the better clearence? you didn't say.

Eric


The D44....... It should be obvious as to why this is true..... The D44 has the 8.5" ring Gear and the Ford 9 has a 9" ring gear.... Right there is 1/2"

Originally posted by dangerranger33



The D44....... It should be obvious as to why this is true..... The D44 has the 8.5" ring Gear and the Ford 9 has a 9" ring gear.... Right there is 1/2"

obvious then why did you ask what was stronger ?
obvious its the 9" its has a bigger ring gear :rasta:

Originally posted by dangerranger33



The D44....... It should be obvious as to why this is true..... The D44 has the 8.5" ring Gear and the Ford 9 has a 9" ring gear.... Right there is 1/2"


That's only a 1/4 of an inch on the radius:flipoff2:

I asked 'cause Dana didn't always try to make the housing real close to the ring gear for better clearence.


Eric

Originally posted by alx


obvious then why did you ask what was stronger ?
obvious its the 9" its has a bigger ring gear :rasta:


Well if you read my original post I know the 9" is the winner I just wanted to hear people disscuss why and then compare that with the 28 spline.......

I would like to know how the 28 spline 9" and 8.8 compare with the 30 sline D44? How dose shaft strength compare? Are the D44 shafts smaller than the 8.8 and 9's?

Originally posted by 4x4junkie


D44 shafts are usually 1.31" 30 spline. Theres an early 19 spline D44, also. POS, but can be upgraded to 30.
8.8s and 9s both came with 1.25" 28 spline, and 1.32" 31 spline shafts.

That would put the D44's 30 spline shafts right in between the 28 and 31 spline shafts (closer to the Ford 31 spline).

My ONLY problem with the 9in is the low low pinion. It puts the drivshaft in a very low spot. I prefer everything else about it. I am running the 8.8 now because of easy rear disks and I am not breaking it on 35s and a v-6 and I would have driveshaft problems (too low) with the 9in. If I moved up to a v-8 and larger tires, I think the ring and pinion strength of the 9in would be an advantage.