CJ7 flipped 300?

[bjb]

I'm sure this has been covered but I can't find anything. What do I need to do to run a flipped 300/atlas in my CJ7 (AMC401,TH400)? I've got a shortened HP60 that would fit real nice but it is drivers drop. I know about flip kits but does the motor have to move for clearance? Can I just swap the frame mounts (and chance the rear mounting) to offset the motor? What driveshaft problems will I run into clocking the transfer up? What all has to be moved? Is it worht it or should I just shorten a chevy 60 and run it with the pass drop? :confused:

[rockcrawler304]

I would first check the cost difference in the flip kit to doing another axle. Does your D300 already have a 4to1 kit? Flip or no flip you will need driveshaft work. IIRC the motor stays in the same place but you may need a small body lift or notch the floor to clock the t-case flat or atleast flatter.

On a side note. ( and I'm not trying to pimp their stuff :flipoff2: ) you could also check STaK4x4. http://www.stak4x4.com for what they have to offer.

[bjb]

I just built a 300 with 4 to 1 and big outputs that I haven't installed yet. Was thinking i could sell it for about the cost of a used atlas which would be cheaper than putting a $500+ flip kit in it. There sure doesn't look like much room for everything (transfer, exaust, driveshaft, shifters) on the drivers side without moving everything over. I've never seen one and really don't know.:confused:

[RG]

It would be considerably cheaper and easier to just have the axle re-tubed to suit your needs. Check with the 4wd shops in your area. I am sure they know of someone who can do it for you if you cannot do it yourself. Costs usually range from $100 to $250 depending upon what you need.

CJ's have the motor offset to the drivers side 2 inches or so to allow for front driveshaft clearance for the D300 or theD20 , but there are many people on this board running flipped kits. Although, typically in later model Jeeps.

IMO correcting the axle for your needs involves alot less time, money, and work.

Good Luck. RG

[HsOffRoad]

You can do it either way, their are pros & cons to each method.

Retubing the axle would certainly solve your problem. In theory it's not all that complciated - Just cut down the long side to accept the factory short side stub axle, and and transfer the difference you cut out fo the long side onto the original short side so it will now accept the long side axle. In reality this is quite a procedure. It requres you to remove at least the short side inner C, and reset caster on both sides of the axle housing. If you go this route, watch out for driveshaft clearance. Since the pinion comes in higher, you may need to offset the motor an inch or so the the driver's side or invest in a clocking ring to make things work. I highly doubt this is something a shop would do for $250 or less, I know I sure wouldnt if you came to mine.

As for the flipped D300 - A friend of mine who runs stock class runs one and he loves it. The whole setup looks a bit hokey to me, but I know that it can be made to work successfully. I don't think anyone manufactures a kit to flip the atlas, since you can take it apart and change the output location. In my opinion that's a better option than flipping your t-case upside down, but again, that's just me.

I recommend you closely compare the costs involved and come to a solid decision on what you want to do before jumping into anything. If you don't particularly value the high pinion, you may very well decide your best bet is looking for a passenger side low pinion axle and avoiding this problem entirely.

Hans

[bjb]

I'vs seen YJs running flipped 300s but thier frames are wider and were driver drop to begin with and my brother has an atlas in his tj but again they came with driver drop. I've got a turbo 400 with a novak adapter (with clocking ring) I'm going to put in and I'm gona have to change my exhaust and driveshafts for that, so it really wouldn't be a real big deal to move the motor over (nice if someone made mounts) at the same time. It almost looks like the stock frame mounts could be swapped side to side to offset it to the pass side. I really like the idea of the HP axle to get the drive shaft up off the rocks some and it really isn't an option to use one with the stock pass drop because the driveshaft can hit the starter when compressed with the transfer clocked up. While a LP chev 60 would solve that problem it still leaves the shaft down low where I seem to bend them. I don't much like the flipped 300 idea but an atlas or stak can be had with driver drop and are better anyway. I've just never seen/noticed a cj with a driver drop and was hopeing smoeone had some experience. Right now The sun just came out and I'm thinking of running this junker as it is this year and begin the changes again in the fall.