I finally got started:D I started with a 1990 RRC that was DiscoWeb type built. I am using EXAXT MOG 404's, with Astroalloy shafts, narrowed 9", passenger drop, full hydro. I am running 37x18x13.5 ProComp Xterrains on 18" Goudy forged Alloy beadlocks. It looks like I will be around 75" outside of tire (narrow). I have already 4-linked the rear. The rear lowers are 29" and the uppers are 28" (have to be due to portal pinion). I have found an easy way to mount the coilovers in the rear. I am using custom XJ front coilover mounts (ref picture). I had to cut a small hole in the chassis to fit both mounts.
When complete it will have:
1) MOG 404's with air actuated 3" cylinders
2) KRC Full hydro/12" MOMO steering wheel
3) 4-linked front/ rear, links on axles will have J-joints, frame has 3/4 heims
4) LT 230 conversion (bought from Roverhybrids, thanks Shane)
5) Hannibal rack/tent system already on rig
6) Duel Yellow top batteries
7) Rear seats will have 2 Kirkey aluminum racing seats to act as Baby seats for my twin girls
8) 10" Fox coilovers in rear ( 200/300's spring rate)
9) 12" Rock Equipment Coilovers in front mounted to a copy of a Marlin IFS long travel shock hoops reinforced with x-member
10) Keeping the ARB front/rear bumper until destroyed
11) Fox Air bumps in rear
12) Rock Equipment Sway bars in rear/maybe in front depending on body roll
13) "High Angle Driveline" (thanks Jess) long slip CV drive shafts
14) Mastercraft seats in front
15) Kodiak heater in front/FJ40 L-Cruiser rear heater in rear
16) Cutting board plastic as skid plates
17) 43qt Engle refrigerator
This should be fun and I hope to have it ready for the Rubicon in June. I hope to see you guys on a Rover run pretty soon, Daren

Easier view:grinpimp:

This is going to be a lot of fun to watch. Keep us posted as much as you can!

You can see the driver rear in this pic. I am trying to prevent from running a x-member to both brackets that's why you see 1/4" plate reinforcing the brackets.

I thought I would send a close up of the wheels:smokin:

Keep 'em coming! Suddenly, there are several builups going on at once. How am I supposed to get any work done?:D

I love it!! Keep us posted on the Rubi in June. I still have high hopes of getting a couple of rovers out there to run it this summer.

Also, you should bring that thing to the National Rally in Moab this year. It would be very cool to run with a rig like that. Maybe even Frankenrover can bring his Mog/D90 hybrid out as well...

Your tech kicks my tech's ass. :flipoff2:

Nice!

Thanks guys, I will keep them comming. Well I have a few more days before having to go back to work. My wife gave me a couple hours to play in my shop so this is what I got done today. The rear axle is in and the coils are in place, tire mounted and now I have actual ride heighth. I ended up with exactly 2" of up travel. Take a look at how far the pinion is pushed inside of the frame rails. My upper links run down hill from the axle to the chassis (nice anti-squat and should climb.

The rear axle:smokin:

The finished driver rear with Kirkey seat for the twins. I will build a box to cover the coils:D

Last one for the day. The rear wheel well cut to clear 37" rubber. It will be close at full flex:confused:

Last one for the day. The rear wheel well cut to clear 37" rubber. It will be close at full flex:confused:

I was wondering what you were planning to do with the wheel wells. But after looking at the pics and remembering this was portals, I guess you won't have to do much with 2" of uptravel.

Definitely makes things easier. Looks good, keep 'em coming.

Does the 2" allow for a bump stop? And do you think 2" is enough to get a tolerable ride on the road? I thought I was cutting it close by trying to only go with 4". That's the point I'm at now, and I'll be curious to see what you do up front with the oil pan, etc.

Good questions. I am hoping 2" is enough. I am tryong to keep the COG as low as possible with narrowed portals. I am using Fox air bumps. Still unsure where they will be mounted due to limited space in rear using Rock Equip sway bar. Greg, you and I both are interested to see if the front clears the o-pan. I think it will. The tougher issue will be getting the uppers long and to the frame rails (those dam 2-sided Rover exausts). LWG, as far as going to Utah. I would love too. Shane (from Roverhybrids) and I were discussing taking a road trip so we could meet all the Rover guys on this board. If we go we will both be bringing our Classics. It would be a blast! Take care guys, I will keep posting as things progress.

That would be a "classic" road trip then?:D

2" up travel? ouch.

Yep, I would rather have 2" up travel than have it roll side-hilling the Rubicon slabs:flipoff2: Hey wait a minute I think I have 2 more inches in my Mastercraft seat:grinpimp: That would be a "classic" road trip then?:D

2" up travel? ouch.

Yep, I would rather have 2" up travel than have it roll side-hilling the Rubicon slabs:flipoff2: Hey wait a minute I think I have 2 more inches in my Mastercraft seat:grinpimp:

I think you said you had fox air bumps too. With 2in uptravel, isn't the truck basically going to ride on the bump-stops continuously? Won't that be extremely uncomfortable?

With 2" of up travel, how will it ride on the bump stops??? I'm using 200 and 300 spring rates that when compressed with spare tire, me, roof rack etc still has 2" uptravel, how then will it ride on the air bumps? Keep in mind this rig will see very little highway. Due to full hydro and portals it won't see speeds faster than 55mph. That being said it is being built for rocks not mall cruising. There is always a compromise, and my compromise was to minimise uptravel and have it more stable on the trail and be able to climb better than forcing higher COG. I will post more picts Monday. Take care, Daren

excuse my ignorance, being a newbie compared to some of you guys, but why would you want to limit up travel to only a few inch?

build looks very cool.

I under stand you're point with wanting to stay upright and it being mostly a trail rig. I suppose the suspension seats will make it handle better:flipoff2:

Seriously though, cool build man. I've always wondered if the added ground clearance of portals was worth the lack of suspension travel (in both directions) that results from the way it needs to be set up to be driveable.
Seems like you should have a pretty good compromise though.

Matt, in hind sight I could have built in more uptravel. However, due to only using 10" coilovers in the rear I wanted mostly downtravel out of them. I am using alot of basis for building this thing out of buggy builds (COMPs) which use very little uptravel. That being said, I'm not saying it's the only way. however, I'm interested to see how everything works. Take care, Daren

Yeah man, I'll be interested to see how it all works to. I was all into the portal route a while back as I'd love the clearance, but I also like the 5" up 9" down when doing the fast fire roads. Can't have it all, it's a fine thing you're doing.

Looking forward to seeing the 4 link set-up, especially the front.

Darren, Nice project, good luck. I did a quick search on JJ's but didn't turn up much. Do they have elastic compliance like a rubber bushing ?
I have asked the following question on a number of threads in the past but it has never been answered. If you have a 4 link suspension with ball joints on both ends of all the links, Where does the flex come from ? For an axle to articulate the 2 links on one side will want to twist the axle in one direction whilst the 2 links on the other side will want to twist the axle in the opposite direction.Large, Compliant bushings are usually used to absorb this twisting moment and provide relatively restriction free movement. Without compliant bushings what components are being stressed, bent or torn every time the axle articulates?
Bill.

Bill, I hope this picture helps. I used 3/4" heims on all (4) attachment points on the chassis and both ends on the uppers. The lowers I used these flex joints (Rubicon Express)AKA johny joints on the lowers at the axle. The rear will flex like crazy! Take care, Daren

Thanks Daren, I take it that the 2 whiteish pinkish coloured rings are made from a soft compliant material?
Bill.

I finally got 2 tires on the ground and the seats in the rear. I decided to use an old .250 wall link that I had laying around as my x-member. It will make it easier to weld brackets/seatbelt tabs too. Take care

Last one for the weekend. This a shot of the passenger rear. When I get better lighting and more room I will take a pict of the 4-link. Bill, the (white) cups go on both ends of the metal (ball joint) they are a polymer that allows low friction movement of moving parts. Take care, Daren

Last one for the weekend. This a shot of the passenger rear. When I get better lighting and more room I will take a pict of the 4-link. Bill, the (white) cups go on both ends of the metal (ball joint) they are a polymer that allows low friction movement of moving parts. Take care, Daren

Nice build.
You using a phone cam for the photos? :D

Looking nice Daren! MOGs and coil overs on a Rover. Now that is innovative. I like it! Keep the pics coming. I want to watch this things progress. So does this mean we will actually get to wheel a trip or 2 this summer on either the Con or Fordyce?

You have not seen this thing in a while. Let me know when your coming into Folsom so you can stop by.

Later bro.

D

Well, I finally made some progress in this out of hand project that continues to be harder than I could have imagined. Nothing just fits:shaking: That being said the front 4-link is in and the lowers are 32" and the uppers are 28". The front coilovers are 12". You can see from this picture that the outside of tire measurement is almost perfect. The measuremnt from the ground to the bottom of the rock sliders is 26" and I moved the front axle fwd 3.5". Feel free to give me feedback. Oh, I almost 4-got I had to cut the Ctalytic converters off to get the uppers to the frame rail. Any ideas on putting them back on somewhere? Thanks

Both uppers on axle (J-joints):smokin:

Momo steering wheel that I pulled ogg my buggy with an adapter to the Rover splined shaft. This will be alot easier to wheel with than the old huuuuuge steering wheel:grinpimp:

Last one showing reinforced 1/4" on coilover mounts:grinpimp:

Sweet! 26" on the slider is an inch less that what I'm at with the 42" and the Toyver axles...that's some good clearance for 37"-38"s!

You may be in need to shave some ARB and fender on the front though...

Do you need the cats in Cali after all this other stuff? No one looks for mine here. I guess Ca. is much tougher on equipment checks.

Sweet! 26" on the slider is an inch less that what I'm at with the 42" and the Toyver axles...that's some good clearance for 37"-38"s!

You may be in need to shave some ARB and fender on the front though...

I think he only has a few inches of uptravel, so he might be fine.

This truck is pretty sweet. I spend years on my truck and you come in and do all this in one fell swoop! You suck!!

Get that thing out and flex it a little. Also more pics of the frame end of the 4-link mounts when you get time.